A MESSAGE FROM PARIS PLUS PLUS
Dear Paris Plus Plus Subscribers,
As I’m sure many of you will be aware, there has been a gap over the last month or so of my blog posts. While some of you have continued to receive each post, many of you have not—perhaps starting to think that I had stopped writing them.
The reason for this gap is due to a new system of distribution via a…
IDYLLIC ISCHIA – CAPRI’S BEAUTIFUL ISLAND NEIGHBOUR
Rising from the crystal clear azure waters of il Golfo di Napoli, the island of Ischia has been a sough-after destination by visitors for centuries. Covered with lemon trees, vineyards and olive groves, Ischia is a beautiful, volcanic island that’s a haven for those seeking a beach holiday off the beaten track, but also for those interested in its vibrant, often violent, history dating back thousands of years. Here, glamorous hotels mix with more secluded acc…
DISCOVER THE MYSTERIOUS ETRUSCAN CIVILISATION AND MORE, AT TARQUINIA
The history of Tarquinia is inextricably connected to the history of the Etruscans. It was here that one of the first settlements of their civilisation arose, made up of a gathering of small groups that clustered together into a complex social structure and formed a city-state. Although little is visible of the once-great wealth and extent of the ancient city, today Tarquinia is famous for its ancient Etruscan tombs in the widespread necropoli, or cemeteries…
THE ISLAND OF ELBA – MORE THAN JUST MEMORIES OF NAPOLEON
Best known for being the place of Napoleon’s exile in 1814, Elba is the biggest island of the Tuscan archipelago and Italy’s third-largest island, after Sardinia and Sicily. It’s also part of the Arcipelago Toscano National Park. It has so much to offer: there are pretty beaches, good diving, charming towns, dramatic historic fortresses and great food. Lying less than 10 kms from the mainland, it’s easily accessed by a frequent and efficient ferry service from…
THE SPECTACULAR BEAUTY OF ITALY’S CINQUE TERRE
A century ago, the Cinque Terre were simply five fishing villages on an unforgiving, incredibly rugged stretch of the Ligurian coast of northwest Italy. With modern transport came tourism, and now hordes arrive daily to experience it all: the startlingly vibrant colour of the Mediterranean, the wildly rugged coastline, scenic hiking tracks and the tiny towns tucked into the dramatically steep valleys.
THE HILLTOP CITY OF LAON – MEDIEVAL CAPITAL OF FRANCE
Situated high above the flat plain of northern Picardy, is the medieval city of Laon, known as the ‘Montagne Couronnée’ (the Crowned City). It sits isolated atop a 100m high limestone rock, surrounded by the low, flat plains below. The high town, encircled by 8 kms of walls and formidable gates, is France’s largest protected historic centre. The town’s crowning glory is the early 12th century Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon, visible for kilometres in every dir…
TWO RADICALLY DIVERSE MUSEUMS TO DISCOVER IN ROME
For those of us who have been to Rome numerous times and have seen all or most of the city’s major monuments and museums, it’s great to come across two lesser-known attractions. These two museums are complete opposites to each other: one being a small, very fine Renaissance villa set in a beautiful garden, while the other is Rome’s newest gallery of contemporary art and architecture, housed in a former automobile factory with a dramatic extension by the late Z…
TWO UNFORGETTABLE SITES IN PUGLIA
Not to be missed on a visit to Puglia is a 13th century citadel, the magnificent Castel del Monte, about 70kms north of Matera. Strategically perched on a hilltop in the Murgia region at an altitude of 540m that can be seen from many kms away, it seems to dominate the entire Kingdom of Sicily, of which Puglia was a part at that time. Another site, that’s one of the country’s most historically important, is Cannae. Anyone who has ever heard of Hannibal will d…
MATERA – SOUTHERN ITALY’S MOST EXTRAORDINARY SITE
Italy’s southernmost region has many great sights and attractions, including huge fortress palaces, white-washed towns and villages, the extraordinary trullis that are only found in the Valle d’Itria, and some stunning beaches. As well as these treasures, there is one spectacular place that no visitor should miss. Matera is one of the most extraordinary destinations in Italy. This remarkable city, the third oldest continuously inhabited in the world, that on…
EXPLORING SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF PUGLIA’S VALLE D’ITRIA
The Valle d’Itria is, for many people, the heart of Puglia. It’s where you’ll see the white rendered trulli houses with their stone conical roofs for which Puglia is famous, along with white-washed villages such as Alberobello and Locorotondo, and larger towns like Martina Franca and Ostuni. The rolling green valley is criss-crossed by dry-stone walls, vineyards, ancient olive and almond groves and winding country lanes. It’s a visitor’s dream location.
CASTLES AND FORTRESSES OF PUGLIA
Puglia is a land of conquests and domination. Strongholds and castles stud the countryside throughout the region, majestic symbols of ancient nobility, but also a turbulent past. The castles were not built purely as residences, but rather as heavily-fortified bastions that could stand strong and invincible against all comers, whether by land or by sea. There are no mountain peaks for Puglia’s castle strongholds. Instead, its horizon traces, almost without i…
LECCE – THE BAROQUE JEWEL OF PUGLIA
The capital of the province of Puglia, located in the Salento region of the “heel” of Italy, Lecce is a dazzling Baroque jewel. Constructed in the local creamy limestone, the buildings of Lecce are covered with joyous, ornate carvings and adornments executed with exuberance and great skill. It is the cultural capital of Puglia, with so many monuments, churches, palazzi and museums, that it is often referred to as “the Florence of the South”. With its elegant…
MORE THAN A MOTOR RACING CIRCUIT, THE CITY OF LE MANS IS ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS OF FRANCE
Mention the town of Le Mans, and many of us would probably first think of the motor racing circuit famous for its gruelling 24 hr. endurance race held every year in June. The majority of visitors at that event watch the race, enjoy the local cuisine and the friendly bars and leave. Amazingly, most of them never realise that there is a beautiful old town so close by. The don’t see the Roman ruins, they miss the narrow cobble-stoned streets lined with half-tim…
DISCOVERING THE ANCIENT TOWN OF SOISSONS – A GREAT DAY TRIP FROM PARIS
The town of Soissons in Picardy, designated a City of Art and History, has deep, obscure roots that date back to ancient Gaul. It occupied a strategic location, much fought over by Caesar and his Roman legions and the Gallic tribes, and later became an important city in the Frankish Empire, eventually becoming its capital—the first of France. If you enjoy discovering little-known destinations that offer important historic monuments, a magnificent Gothic cathe…
SENLIS – 2,000 YEARS OF HISTORY JUST A DAY TRIP FROM PARIS
The medieval town of Senlis is situated near the magnificent Château estate and town of Chantilly. It’s the kind of French town in which you could happily lose yourself for hours, wandering along the narrow, cobblestoned alleyways and soaking up its history, which stretches back to pre-Roman times. It’s perfect for a day trip from Paris, especially for those who have already visited Versailles and Fontainebleau, and are looking for another rewarding experienc…
ITALY’S IDYLLIC LAKE GARDA
There aren’t many places in Europe more beautiful than Italy’s Lago di Garda. Its stunning scenery is due to the extensive backdrop of the Dolomite mountains to the north, together with all the picturesque towns and medieval villages dotted along its shore, it’s the perfect region to spend some time. It has long been a favourite destination of ours, and we tend to gravitate to the beautiful town of Sirmione on the southern shore, which is a great ba…
THE BEAUTIFUL RENAISSANCE CITY OF FERRARA
The north of Italy has an abundance of riches for the visitor, and it’s almost impossible to make a list of top favourites. There’s the sublime beauty of the various lakes, the glories of Venice, and numerous small Renaissance cities to choose from. We’ve spent many wonderful trips exploring these Renaissance gems over decades, and they all have their own unique character and attractions. Recently, we re-visited the beautiful city of Ferrara, a little over 1…
VENICE DURING THE BIENNALE
We revisited Venice a few weeks ago for the first time since COVID shut down the world for travellers. Venice has been one of our top favourite cities for many decades, and this was to be our 4th Biennale, so we were interested to see what changes had occurred to La Serenissima since our last visit. Would it still be magical, or a crowded nightmare now that the world has re-opened for travel? We were keen to find out.
THE MAGNIFICENT BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE DE FRANCE HAS FINALLY RE-OPENED
We had been walking past this enormous complex for years speculating about when it might re-open, wondering if we’d ever get to visit it one day. Imagine our surprise and delight when we saw the enormous posters announcing its re-opening in the metro stations on our first day back in Paris! It was still closed on our earlier visit in April, with no hint as to when it would re-open. This is arguably the most important, and certainly largest, of the numerous n…
THE MYSTERIOUS KNIGHTS TEMPLARS AND THE ORIGINS OF THE MARAIS DISTRICT –
This district of Paris is one of the most historic and fascinating in the city. Nowadays, it’s known for hip boutiques, quirky art galleries, great cafes, restaurants and fresh food, a couple of delightful squares, and some of the best museums in the city. Although its origins were far from auspicious, it’s a place we always head to for all these attractions and much more. It’s an enticing melange of ancient and traditional plus contemporary and slightly qui…
LE MARCHÉ BASTILLE-RICHARD LENOIR—A GUARANTEED CULINARY ADVENTURE
There are dozens of outdoor markets in Paris, at least two in each of the city’s 20 arrondissements. Probably the largest, and many argue the best, is the fantastic Marché Richard-Lenoir—more commonly called the Marche Bastille, held Thursdays and Sundays along the grand Boulevard Richard Lenoir, just north of the Place de la Bastille. The focus is the wonderful range of foods grown by local area farmers, quite a few of which are certified organic growers. A…
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO: A PERFECT DAY IN PARC DE SCEAUX – ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS NEAR PARIS
If you’re looking for a very pleasant and interesting day trip from Paris, and you’ve already visited the big headline sites such as Versailles or Fontainebleau, the charming town of Sceaux is certainly one that offers everything you could wish for. Known for its rich architectural heritage, its picture-perfect château, museums, 13th century church, and magnificent parks, it’s hard to believe that Sceaux is less than 10 kms south of Paris.
DISCOVERING THE BEAUTIFUL PARC MONCEAU AND ITS ELEGANT NEIGHBOURHOOD
In the last two posts, we have looked at two outstanding Paris museums, relatively little-known to visitors, both located in the 8th arrondissement, one just around the corner from the other. They are both close by the Parc Monceau, one of the most interesting and beautiful parks in the city, at the junction of Bvd. de Courcelles, rue de Prony and rue Georges Berger. The neighbourhood is a quiet, discreetly elegant, mostly residential area with impressive man…
THE CERNUSCHI MUSEUM OF ASIAN ART, PARIS
The Musée Cernuschi is relatively unknown to most visitors to Paris. Located on a quiet, leafy street that leads up to the beautiful Parc Monceau in an ultra-exclusive area of the 8th arrondissement, it’s just around the corner from the Musée Nissim de Camondo. The Cernuschi is an Asian art museum, mostly specialising in works from China, Japan, and Korea. These are objects collected by Henri Cernuschi, and displayed in a small mansion that used to be his ho…
L’HÔTEL DE LA MARINE – A TOUCH OF VERSAILLES IN THE HEART OF PARIS
If you’ve been to Paris more than once, very likely you have been past the Hôtel de la Marine. This is not a hotel in which you stay, but a hôtel particulier of epic proportions. A “real” hotel, the historic, luxury Hôtel de Crillon, is adjacent. These opulent 18th century buildings are a perfectly balanced pair facing onto Place de la Concorde. Fortunately, during its long and illustrious life, from the reign of Louis XV through the centuries housing the N…
LA SAMARITAINE, AN ICONIC PARISIAN DEPARTMENT STORE REBORN
La Samaritaine has finally re-emerged, like the phoenix rising, if not from the ashes, from a long hibernation of neglect and deterioration that left a gap on the city skyline between the river Seine and the busy rue de Rivoli. Its recent re-opening was a much anticipated event. After 16 long years of closure, renovations, and some controversy, this historic icon is the ultimate grand magasin. Definitely a must-see on your next visit to Paris!
A PARISIAN LANDMARK REIMAGINED: LA BOURSE DE COMMERCE–PINAULT COLLECTION
Over the last two years, despite the severe COVID restrictions, Paris somehow managed to work on a number of extraordinary cultural projects, most of which have now opened. These were not small-scale ventures by any means. As I’ve mentioned previously, two of these were the complete refurbishment of the enormous Musée Carnavalet, now re-opened, and the massive restoration of the Grand Palais, which is still ongoing. Last post, I looked at the new Christian D…
LA GALERIE DIOR – A HOMAGE TO THE ARTISTRY OF THE ‘MASTER OF DREAMS’
Near the top of our list of must-sees on our recent visit to Paris was the Christian Dior museum, La Galerie Dior, which I briefly mentioned in the last blog. I had read about its official opening, just 3 weeks before we hit town. A good friend of ours, the manager of the beautiful Zegna menswear boutique on Ave. George V, urged us to make a visit a priority, as word was spreading fast. This was also a great sign that things in Paris had re-opened, and that…
PARIS—AND THE REST OF FRANCE—ARE BACK IN BUSINESS!
As some of you know, we have just returned from 5 weeks in France. It was a truly wonderful trip, spending 3 weeks in Paris before heading down to the glorious Burgundy district for almost 2 weeks. Like everyone for whom travel is an essential part of life, we were anxious to spread our wings and head back to our favourite destination after the COVID-induced lockdowns of the last 2 years or so.
MUSÉE NISSIM DE CAMONDO – A MAGNIFICENT MANSION DEDICATED TO THE 18TH CENTURY
There are so many wonderful museums in Paris, selecting which ones to visit when you’ve got limited time is a challenge. We certainly have our favourites, and we also keep an eye on websites of Paris cultural institutions to check if there will be any special shows on during our next visit. One of our favourites since we first discovered it some years ago is the Musée Nissim de Camondo, which backs onto the beautiful Parc Monceau, and has a number of embassie…
A NEW WAVE OF MUSEUM RESTAURANTS IN PARIS
In a city that boasts over 140 museums, and a food culture that’s worth travelling from the other side of the world for, it a natural fit that there are going to be cafes and restaurants in certain Paris museums that are as worth visiting as the museums themselves. Some museum restaurants have become icons of good food and great ambience, such as the Café at Musée Jacquemart-André, and more recently, Alain Ducasse’s ‘Ore’ at the Chateau de Versailles and the C…
MUSEE GUIMET – 5,000 YEARS OF ASIAN ART IN PARIS
When we think of museums in Paris, what immediately springs to mind are the internationally famous institutions such as the Louvre, Quai d’Orsay, Pompidou Centre, and perhaps the recent addition of the Fondation Louis Vuitton. But Paris also has the largest and most important collection of Asian artefacts in Europe at the Musée des Art Asiatiques Guimet in the 16th arrondissement. From the Buddhas of Afghanistan, the Zen monks of Japan, Samurai armour, Indian…
PALAIS GALLIERA – THE PARIS MUSEUM OF FASHION
A stone’s throw from some of the most prestigious haute couture houses and designer boutiques in the city, the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris is housed in the Italian Renaissance-inspired Palais Galliera. The museum preserves some of the richest collections in the world, estimated at around 200,000 items of clothing, accessories, photographs, drawings and more. Tracing the evolution of fashion over more than 300 years, these extraordinary collections a…
THE TROCADERO – PANORAMIC VIEWS, BEAUTIFUL GARDENS, FOUR MAJOR CULTURAL INSTITUTIONS, AND A SUPRISING SECRET
Situated on the opposite side of the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, the Trocadéro is well and truly on the must-visit list for offering the best view of the most recognisable monument in Paris. It is also home to beautiful gardens, ornamental ponds and fountains that stretch down to the river, as well as the richness of the Palais de Chaillot, the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, and the Musée de la Marine—although this is currently closed for massive re…
PASSY – WHERE QUIET VILLAGE CHARM MEETS CULTURE & LUXURY
The 16th arrondissement of Paris is best known to visitors for its great landmarks and museums, from the Musée Marmottan-Monet, the Palais Galliera and Musée Guimet, to the Place de la Trocadero and the Palais Chaillot, affording dramatic views of the Eiffel Tower on the opposite bank of the Seine. But the 16th also has corners of quiet, residential areas that feel worlds away from the big-ticket attractions and the bustle of the city. The Passy neighbourhoo…
RUE OBERKAMPF – A VIBRANT PARISIAN NEIGHBOURHOOD
Beyond the iconic Place de la Republique—where Parisians gathered in their thousands after the 2015 attacks on their city—is a fascinating network of streets crammed with some of the city’s hippest venues, chic bars, great bistros, old craft workshops and up-and-coming designer boutiques. In Paris’ 11th arrondissement, rue Oberkampf and the streets around it offer an interesting mix of all of these, plus an increasing number of high-end food shops and any numb…
TWO SECRET VILLAGES IN PARIS
If you’ve been to Paris a few times, no doubt you’ve taken in the big, headline monuments and sites such as the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Louvre, walked along the Champs Elysees and shopped ’til you dropped in Galeries Lafayette. These iconic places are internationally famous for a very good reason, but for your next visit, I’d like to suggest some hidden little pockets to explore that most likely you’ve never heard of. There are a number of charming lit…
WHEN A PARIS PÉNICHE IS MORE THAN JUST A BARGE
One of the most pleasant ways to relax in Paris is to take a stroll along the banks of the Seine. It’s a busy, working river with a constant flow of craft of all descriptions. Ranging from the many tourist boats crammed with sightseers enjoying the unique perspective of the city’s great landmarks from the river, to serious, business-like barges riding low in the water, filled with anything from building site rubble to bales of shredded paper heading to the re…
GREAT FOOD MARKETS TO DISCOVER IN PARIS
One of the great pleasures of a visit to Paris is spending time exploring the many wonderful food markets. You can take your pick from 69 open-air and 13 covered markets in the city, meaning that some arrondissements have more than one market. Everyone has their personal favourites, and we certainly have ours, but we also love to visit other markets in various parts of the city to see what’s on offer. Produce is always seasonal and high quality, and one of t…
THE MUSÉE MARMOTTAN MONET – A LITTLE-KNOWN GEM IN PARIS
A description that’s often used to describe the Musée Marmottan Monet is that it’s a “hidden” gem. Rather, I’d say it’s perhaps more overlooked than hidden, given its location in the chic Passy neighbourhood in the 16th arr. on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne, beside one of the loveliest parks in Paris. Famous for the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet, the museum also has works by other Impressionist painters such as Morisot, Degas, Manet…
LE CHÂTEAU DE VINCENNES – A MEDIEVAL FORTRESS IN PARIS
When you think of châteaux in the Paris area, Versailles is likely the first that would spring to mind. For its sheer beauty, opulence and size, not to mention the wonderful gardens and parklands surrounding it, it’s no wonder that Versailles is one of the most visited destinations in the entire country. However, for those who have “been there, done that” and would like to explore another former royal residence in Paris, the enormous Château de Vincennes offe…
WHEN SHOPS TRANSFORM INTO ‘CONCEPT’ STORES
Paris has long been famous as a world capital of fashion and design, but it is also a city with a wealth of exciting design concept stores bursting with products unique to France. It’s a country and a society with a history of commitment to artisan craft skills, a deep appreciation of the handmade object, innovative use of natural materials and the creative expression of the individual artist or designer.
RUE MOUFFETARD – A PARIS STREET PAVED WITH HISTORY
Around every corner of Paris you will find streets full of history. The secret to discovering the real Paris is to detour off the grand boulevards, famous squares and enticing shopping streets. If you delight in discovering special places, little nooks and crannies, narrow, ancient, pedestrianised streets beloved by locals but unknown to most visitors—the rue Mouffetard in the Latin Quarter of the 5th arrondissement is for you.
DISCOVER THE RICHES OF THE MARCHÉ AUX PUCES, PARIS
To call the Marché aux Puces in Paris a “flea market” is an understatement. Regarded as the largest market of its kind in the world and with around 180,000-200,000 visitors each weekend, at first sight its sheer size can be a very daunting prospect. It is in fact a whole series of markets, segmented according to category and price level, ranging from vendors selling museum-quality pieces (at museum prices!), to sought-after collectables, through to inexpensiv…
FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD – HOW TO SHOP AND EAT LIKE A LOCAL IN PARIS
Paris is Europe’s most densely populated city, and offers a mind-boggling array of food offers. There are even local Parisian products available, if you know where to look. One of the great advantages of renting an apartment rather than staying in a hotel is that you can explore so many wonderful culinary treats from almost any district in which you find yourself on your daily excursions. However, no matter where you stay, it’s easy to put together a picnic…
A WONDERFUL DAY TRIP FROM PARIS – CHÂTEAU DE CHANTILLY
Although France has so many impressive châteaux scattered throughout the country, there is one that never fails to take your breath away. The Château de Chantilly in Picardy is one of the most spectacular in France, set in a vast estate of 7,800 hectares. At less than 50kms from the centre of Paris, armed with your Navigo Pass it’s easily accessible for a perfect day out.
ALL DRESSED UP FOR CHRISTMAS!
France is famous for its illuminations during the festive season. Despite the huge drop in numbers of visitors, and almost in defiance of the difficulties faced by everyone during this extraordinary year, Paris in particular is dressed with its usual impressive lighting displays to celebrate the holiday season.
ART NOUVEAU TREASURES OF THE PARISIAN BELLE ÉPOQUE
The Belle Époque lasted from the 1870s to the beginning of World War One, and was at its height in Paris during the 1890s and 1900s. It was a period of great optimism and cultural innovation. It was an exciting time for art and theatre, as well as a new architectural movement generally referred to as Art Nouveau, which swept across Europe. It was an era of confidence, prosperity and certainty, and Parisians in particular were hungry for more glamour, more be…
STEPPING BACK IN TIME: DISCOVERING ROMAN PARIS
There aren’t many regions in Western Europe that were not once occupied by the Romans, and the city of Paris is no exception. When we think of modern day Paris, it’s probably more likely to be medieval marvels such as Notre Dame or Sainte Chapelle, perhaps monuments of the French Renaissance, Classical revival, the Belle Epoque, and of course the boulevards lined with elegant 19th century Haussmann-era apartment buildings, that spring to mind. However, the or…
MATISSE: A MAJOR RETROSPECTIVE IN PARIS
The Pompidou Centre is celebrating the 150th anniversary of the birth of Henri Matisse, one of the most important artists of the 20th century. This special exhibition uses a novel published in 1971 by Louis Aragon, Henri Matisse: Roman as a framework to display not only 230 works, but also over 70 documents, books and archives related to him.
AN ENTIRE WEEKEND CELBRATING A NATION’S HERITAGE
Every year in September, most European countries devote an entire weekend to the celebration and exploration of their cultural heritage through the European Heritage Days program. This year in France it was held on 19th – 20th of the month celebrating the theme “Heritage and Education: Learning for Life”.
Public and private owners of historic properties, members of associations for the protection and enhancement of heritage, curators, restorers, guardians…
CELEBRATING CULTURE AT AN ALL NIGHT FESTIVAL
The idea of celebrating culture with an annual all-night event that brings together all ages and tastes, started back in 1982 and has since become a world-wide phenomenon. In France, the Fête de la Musique is held on 21 June every year, and La Nuit des Musées falls around the middle of May. Events are free, hugely popular, with a festive atmosphere and above all, great fun.
DISCOVER THE CANAL SAINT-MARTIN NEIGHBOURHOOD IN PARIS
For many visitors to Paris, if they know of its existence at all, the attraction of a leisurely boat ride along the Canal St. Martin lies in its being a great way to relax after a frenetic few days packed with sightseeing, or a few too many shopping trips. Delightful as a canal trip is, there is a whole lot more to this northern part of Paris to discover.
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – THE CHÂTEAU DE MALMAISON
Famous as the last residence of the Empress Joséphine, it’s also synonymous with her cultivation of rare and exotic plant species hitherto unknown in France, but especially the importation and propagation of roses. This small château, with its fascinating memorabilia of its most famous residents and its beautiful garden, is barely 15kms west of central Paris, making it a perfect day trip from Paris using your Navigo transport pass.
EXPERIENCE THE UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE OF A CONCERT IN A PARIS CHURCH
If you’ve never attended a concert in one of the many historic churches in Paris, you’re in for a very special treat. The wonderful acoustics, soaring ceilings, beautiful stained-glass windows, timeless stone sculptures and sometimes priceless paintings, all combine to create an atmosphere that cannot be experienced in a regular concert venue.
DISCOVERING THE PALAIS-ROYAL, PARIS
It has always come as a surprise to us that the Palais-Royal, although situated in the heart of Paris, is so often missed by visitors. Perhaps it’s because the entrance isn’t obvious or perhaps visitors are distracted by a visit to the Louvre, which is opposite. For a weary visitor, the beautiful gardens of the historic Palais-Royal are a haven of peace and relaxation away from the crowds of the Louvre and the hustle and bustle of the city.
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – THE CHÂTEAU DE FONTAINEBLEAU
On a list of ‘must sees’ for most visitors to Paris, along with the obvious sights such as the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre etc., is likely to be the Château de Versailles. Far less familiar though is the Château de Fontainebleau, arguably the centre of the history of French monarchy. No site in France can compare as a royal residence. It predates the Louvre itself by 50 years, and Versailles by 5 centuries.
Fontainebleau is the only château that was lived in…
THE REMARKABLE STORIES OF THE THREE PARIS PAGODAS – Part 2
This story continues on from my previous post about one of the three Paris pagodas, the Japanese-style pagoda, known as La Pagode, which was converted to a much-loved cinema. The other two are equally fascinating, with their own surprising stories to tell.
The three Paris Pagodas are as visually startling, unexpected delights today as they were when first created.
THE REMARKABLE PARIS PAGODAS – Part 1
Paris has three remarkable and unusual pagodas. Curiously, only one of them was built as a shrine. Of the other two, one is bold and conspicuous, while the other is discreet and hidden within a dense bamboo and ginko garden. What the three have in common is that their histories are fascinating, with just a hint of mystery.
REJUVENATING THE CHAMPS ÉLYSÉES
The Champs Élysées is surely the iconic avenue in Paris. It conjures up images of a wide, tree-lined boulevard lined with magnificent Beaux-Art style buildings occupied by elegant designer boutiques, discreet luxury hotels, the famous Lido cabaret, and like a giant exclamation mark, the Arc de Triomphe marking the summit. The reality though is that over the last few years the street was in danger of becoming just another retail strip full of banal chain store…
THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING EXCITING ON IN PARIS
Trying to distil the huge number of exhibitions and concerts happening in any year in Paris into a list of highlights is an almost impossible task. This year is no exception, but any year will have so many visual feasts and surprises, it’s one of the great pleasures, and dilemmas, in planning a visit.
So, what’s good about Paris in the Winter
The thing we especially look forward to at this time of year is heading to the northern hemisphere for a couple of weeks. It’s a welcome break from heat, humidity, and right now the heartbreaking drought conditions that’s affecting so much of our wide, brown (read: burnt) land. We love the whole, over-the-top festive razzamatazz that takes over our favourite cities such as London and of course Paris.
New Etchings of Paris – by Rodney Moss
Paris Plus Plus has great pleasure in presenting the first three etchings of sketches of Paris by well-known Australian architect-turned-artist, Rodney Moss. Rodney has generously offered to donate all profit from the sale of Notre Dame from the Seine to the Notre Dame Restoration Fund, established by the French Government. We are delighted and honoured to participate with Rodney in this cause that is dear to our hearts.
If you would like to contribute to the…
Spectacular Capri – Southern Italy’s Isola Bella
Lying at the southern edge of the Bay of Naples, beyond the Sorrentine peninsula, the rocky island of Capri has been renowned as a holiday destination for about two thousand years. It’s an island of myths, Roman emperors and their infamous orgies, luxury yachts and the occasional A-list celebrity, but above all, the most spectacular vistas imaginable.
FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON – FRANK GEHRY’S MODERN MASTERPIECE FOR PARIS
“I dream of designing a magnificent vessel for Paris that symbolises France’s profound cultural vocation.”
With these words, the famous Canadian-American architect, creator of Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum (1997), gave his blessing to the opening, in October 2014, of his latest masterpiece, the Fondation Louis Vuitton, Paris. We were lucky enough to be in Paris that week and joined perhaps 10,000 others for its first open weekend.
THE VIADUC DES ARTS—ARTISANS’ PRECINCT & ELEVATED LINEAR GARDEN OASIS
Built in 1859, this former elevated railway viaduct came into Paris from the east, terminating at Place de la Bastille in the 12th arr. After the creation of the RER A line in 1969 the Viaduc de Bastille became redundant, gradually declining into another example of neglect and decay that was slated for demolition. Instead, under a bold urban renewal program by the City of Paris in the 1980s, the Viaduc’s fortunes were revived.
DISCOVER SOME OF THE BEST FLEA MARKETS IN FRANCE
France is a great place to pick up bargain vintage wares. If a visit to a flea market, rummaging through racks of vintage fashion, or just the thrill of the chase, hoping to find that diamond in the rough, is your idea of a great day out, then France has a wealth of unforgettable experiences waiting for you, right across the country.
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – POISSY
Located 24 kms west of Paris on the River Seine and bordering the royal forest of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, lies the fortified town of Poissy. An important religious centre in the Middle Ages, it was also a royal city and the birthplace of Kings Louis IX—later sanctified as Saint Louis—and Philippe III, and today known as the location of one of the landmark buildings of the 20th century, the World Heritage listed Villa Savoye by Le Corbusier.
MUST-SEE GARDENS IN & AROUND PARIS
When we think of great things to see and do in Paris, our first thoughts often go to the world famous monuments, incredible museums, fantastic range of food and some of the best shopping in the world. Often overlooked are the wonderful green spaces, all of which contribute to all these unforgettable experiences.
NEW LIFE FOR TWO HISTORIC COMPLEXES IN HONG KONG
As well as being a perennial shopping mecca, Hong Kong has some exciting new projects that have breathed new life into a number of landmark historic buildings. Two of these are the former Central Police Station complex and the former Police Married Quarters, both on Hong Kong Island.
KARL LAGERFELD, CREATIVE GENIUS
Credited as the design maestro who resurrected Chanel from a sure and certain fate of irrelevance when he became art director of the House in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld died in Paris on 19 February at the age of 85.
MORET-SUR-LOING – ANOTHER IN THE OCCASIONAL SERIES, TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO
This picturesque medieval town lies along the banks of the tranquil waters of the river Loing, a tributary of the Seine, just a little over 9 kms from the south–east edge of the forest surrounding the Chateau de Fontainebleau. The town is postcard pretty, offering many opportunities for keen photographers. It also inspired many Impressionist painters such as Monet, Renoir and in particular Alfred Sisley, who spent the last 20 years of his life there.
WHY GO TO PARIS IN MID WINTER?
Although winter has well and truly settled in for a while, this doesn’t mean that that Paris is quietly slumbering or even slowing down. On the contrary, during the winter months the city is abuzz with fabulous exhibitions, imaginative concert programs and other great things to do, such as the eagerly awaited start of the end-of-winter-sales, which this year kicked off on 09 January.
CHARTRES AND ITS GLORIOUS CATHEDRAL
Just 50 kms southwest from Paris, Chartres is within easy reach if you’re visiting the capital. Notre-Dame de Chartres looms over the surrounding countryside and its tall spires are clearly visible as you approach the town. Its inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979 describes it as being “the high point of French Gothic art”. After recent restoration to both the interior and exterior, Chartres and its delightful town is a must-visit for all lover…
DISCOVER RUE PONCELET’S OUTSTANDING OUTDOOR MARKET
According to the Mairie de Paris, there are more than 82 markets in Paris. This equates to at least one market in every one of the 20 arrondissements of Paris, and the number increases the further out you head from the centre.
One of the best-loved markets for Parisians is located in the rue Poncelet in the 17th arrondissement.
BELLA BELLAGIO, THE JEWEL OF LAKE COMO
Northern Italy offers a wonderful series of lakes, and Lake Como is generally regarded as the most spectacular of them all. Its unmistakable upturned Y shape was carved out of a glacier that was forced to split into two by the mountain that stood in its path. Today, the dramatic Dolomites surround the lake, with often a dusting of snow at the highest peaks visible even in high summer.
A FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS AT THE JARDIN DES PLANTES, PARIS
This year’s Festival de Lumières at the Jardin des Plantes is the first time the event has been held in Paris and the region. Called Especes en Voie d’Illumination, ‘Species in the Process of Enlightenment’, it’s an incredible visual feast for adults and children alike that takes the form of a nocturnal walk along the paths and lawns, spread out over most of the park.
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES
The history of Versailles is inextricably linked with Louis VIV, although there had been a residence there for centuries before he ascended the throne. As Dauphin, Louis XIV had loved to hunt in the forests surrounding the small chateau that his father Louis XIII had rebuilt from the original brick and stone hunting lodge. These works were ongoing until 1634, which laid the basis for the chateau we know today.
A NIGHT AT THE OPERA—AT THE ROMAN ARENA, VERONA
This year was the 96th season of opera to be held in the spectacular Roman Arena at Verona. A little older than Rome’s Coliseum, it was built around 30AD during the reign of the Emperor Caligula, and was said to be capable of holding more than 30,000 spectators. Its outstanding acoustics has ensured its popularity for centuries, with the first operatic performances taking place in the 1850s.
CELEBRATING 350 YEARS OF THE PARIS OPÉRA BALLET
The season’s opening on 27 September this year marked the 350th anniversary of the Paris Opéra Ballet. Over the next 16 months, there will be ample opportunity for Champagne-popping as it celebrates its founding by Louis XlV on 28 June 1669.
SIRMIONE, LAKE GARDA—HOME TO A MOATED CASTLE AND AN ENORMOUS ROMAN VILLA
‘The pearl of islands!’ wrote the Roman poet Catullus in the 1st century BCE, describing the town of Sirmione, on the southern shore of beautiful Lake Garda in northern Italy. Less than 40 kms from Verona and 150 kms from Venice, Lake Garda is ideally placed to visit one of the loveliest parts of northern Italy.
EUROPEAN HERITAGE DAYS: VISITING RARELY ACCESSIBLE PLACES—FOR FREE!
This year was the 35th edition of European Heritage Days that take place in September every year. During the designated weekend doors are opened to thousands of monuments and sites, many of which aren’t normally open to the public, or offer only limited access. As visits are free, the idea is to encourage people to learn about their local cultural heritage, and become actively involved in safeguarding it, not only for the present, but for future generations.
Artful Shopping – exploring museum shops in Paris
When it comes to shopping, Paris offers such a wealth of choice with its boutique-lined streets and elegant department stores. It seems that almost everywhere you turn you will discover enticing little shops full of alluring goodies to tempt you.
MUSÉE YVES SAINT LAURENT, PARIS
A fitting celebration of the designer’s life and work, this jewel of a museum was opened by the French Minister of Culture in October 2017. Housed in a beautiful Second Empire mansion, which was formerly the premises of his haute couture maison in the discreetly elegant 16th arrondissement, it is an enduring tribute to this legendary designer.
A LITTLE-KNOWN GEM – PARC DES BUTTES-CHAUMONT
We recently discovered one of the gems of Paris that we had been meaning to visit for a very long time. Off the tourist beaten track in the north east of Paris in the 19th arr., the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is one of the largest outdoor spaces in the city.
BEFORE VERSAILLES THERE WAS VAUX-LE-VICOMTE – TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO
As discussed in a recent blog, there are many exciting possibilities for exploring Paris and its regions if you’re armed with a Navigo travel pass. The 17th century masterpiece Vaux-le-Vicomte is just one of 100 châteaux about an hour or less from Paris, many of which are open to the public. A Navigo pass makes a visit to this magnificent château easy to achieve.
The Place des Vosges through the Seasons
Place des Vosges.
One of the best-loved outdoor spaces where Parisians like to hang out at any time of year is the elegant Place des Vosges, in the heart of the famous Marais district.
It’s also one of our favourite places, and has come to express for us the changing seasonal character of the city.
ATELIER DES LUMIÈRES – THE NEW DIGITAL ART CENTRE IN PARIS
An exciting new venue for the arts opened in Paris in mid April 2018. Located in the former Plichon cast-iron foundry built in 1835, it has over 3,000 sq. metres of surface area and walls up to 10 metres high. It took two years to prepare the building for its new life as the city’s most innovative space for presenting art, using all the techniques of the digital revolution.
EXPLORING THE ILE SAINT-LOUIS
Everyone visiting Paris heads to the Ile de la Cité, the large island in the middle of the river Seine, to visit Notre Dame Cathedral. However, the smaller of the two islands, Ile Saint-Louis, can easily be overlooked.
It has retained its 17th century charm, most of its magnificent historic buildings, and its medieval streets.