IDYLLIC ISCHIA – CAPRI’S BEAUTIFUL ISLAND NEIGHBOUR
Looking across at Ischia from the Castello Aragonese
Rising from the crystal clear azure waters of il Golfo di Napoli, the island of Ischia has been a sough-after destination by visitors for centuries. Covered with lemon trees, vineyards and olive groves, Ischia is a beautiful, volcanic island that’s a haven for those seeking a beach holiday off the beaten track, but also for those interes…
DISCOVER THE MYSTERIOUS ETRUSCAN CIVILISATION AND MORE, AT TARQUINIA
Aerial view of Tarquinia.
The history of Tarquinia is inextricably connected to the history of the Etruscans. It was here that one of the first settlements of their civilisation arose, made up of a gathering of small groups that clustered together into a complex social structure and formed a city-state. Although little is visible of the once-great wealth and extent of the ancient city, to…
THE ISLAND OF ELBA – MORE THAN JUST MEMORIES OF NAPOLEON
The harbour entrance into PortoferrioBest known for being the place of Napoleon’s exile in 1814, Elba is the biggest island of the Tuscan archipelago and Italy’s third-largest island, after Sardinia and Sicily. It’s also part of the Arcipelago Toscano National Park. It has so much to offer: there are pretty beaches, good diving, charming towns, dramatic historic fortresses and great food. …
THE SPECTACULAR BEAUTY OF ITALY’S CINQUE TERRE
Manarola, one of the five towns that comprise the Cinque Terre on Italy’s Ligurian coast. Photo, Shutterstock
A century ago, the Cinque Terre were simply five fishing villages on an unforgiving, incredibly rugged stretch of the Ligurian coast of northwest Italy. With modern transport came tourism, and now hordes arrive daily to experience it all: the startlingly vibrant colour …
THE HILLTOP CITY OF LAON – MEDIEVAL CAPITAL OF FRANCE
Laon’s enormous cathedral dominates the town.
Situated high above the flat plain of northern Picardy, is the medieval city of Laon, known as the ‘Montagne Couronnée’ (the Crowned City). It sits isolated atop a 100m high limestone rock, surrounded by the low, flat plains below. The high town, encircled by 8 kms of walls and formidable gates, is France’s largest protected historic centre. …
TWO RADICALLY DIVERSE MUSEUMS TO DISCOVER IN ROME
The entrance of Villa Farnesina facing into the garden.
For those of us who have been to Rome numerous times and have seen all or most of the city’s major monuments and museums, it’s great to come across two lesser-known attractions. These two museums are complete opposites to each other: one being a small, very fine Renaissance villa set in a beautiful garden, while the other is Rome’s ne…
TWO UNFORGETTABLE SITES IN PUGLIA
Aerial view of Castel del Monte.
Not to be missed on a visit to Puglia is a 13th century citadel, the magnificent Castel del Monte, about 70kms north of Matera. Strategically perched on a hilltop in the Murgia region at an altitude of 540m that can be seen from many kms away, it seems to dominate the entire Kingdom of Sicily, of which Puglia was a part at that time. Another site, that’s o…
MATERA – SOUTHERN ITALY’S MOST EXTRAORDINARY SITE
The Sassi cave houses of Matera
Italy’s southernmost region has many great sights and attractions, including huge fortress palaces, white-washed towns and villages, the extraordinary trullis that are only found in the Valle d’Itria, and some stunning beaches. As well as these treasures, there is one spectacular place that no visitor should miss. Matera is one of the most extraordinary des…
EXPLORING SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF PUGLIA’S VALLE D’ITRIA
The white-washed town of Ostuni, Puglia. Photo, Alamy
The Valle d’Itria is, for many people, the heart of Puglia. It’s where you’ll see the white rendered trulli houses with their stone conical roofs for which Puglia is famous, along with white-washed villages such as Alberobello and Locorotondo, and larger towns like Martina Franca and Ostuni. The rolling green valley is criss-crossed by…
CASTLES AND FORTRESSES OF PUGLIA
The enormous fortified castle at Gallipoli. Photo, Alamy
Puglia is a land of conquests and domination. Strongholds and castles stud the countryside throughout the region, majestic symbols of ancient nobility, but also a turbulent past. The castles were not built purely as residences, but rather as heavily-fortified bastions that could stand strong and invincible against all comers, whethe…
LECCE – THE BAROQUE JEWEL OF PUGLIA
The magnificent Baroque Basilica di Santa Croce, Lecce
The capital of the province of Puglia, located in the Salento region of the “heel” of Italy, Lecce is a dazzling Baroque jewel. Constructed in the local creamy limestone, the buildings of Lecce are covered with joyous, ornate carvings and adornments executed with exuberance and great skill. It is the cultural capital of Puglia, with s…
MORE THAN A MOTOR RACING CIRCUIT, THE CITY OF LE MANS IS ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS OF FRANCE
The historic Cite Plantagenet, Le Mans. Photo, Alamy
Mention the town of Le Mans, and many of us would probably first think of the motor racing circuit famous for its gruelling 24 hr. endurance race held every year in June. The majority of visitors at that event watch the race, enjoy the local cuisine and the friendly bars and leave. Amazingly, most of them never realise that there is a b…
DISCOVERING THE ANCIENT TOWN OF SOISSONS – A GREAT DAY TRIP FROM PARIS
Modern Soissons has many historic references to its vivid history.
The town of Soissons in Picardy, designated a City of Art and History, has deep, obscure roots that date back to ancient Gaul. It occupied a strategic location, much fought over by Caesar and his Roman legions and the Gallic tribes, and later became an important city in the Frankish Empire, eventually becoming its capital—t…
SENLIS – 2,000 YEARS OF HISTORY JUST A DAY TRIP FROM PARIS
The Catheddrale Notre-Dame, Senlis
The medieval town of Senlis is situated near the magnificent Château estate and town of Chantilly. It’s the kind of French town in which you could happily lose yourself for hours, wandering along the narrow, cobblestoned alleyways and soaking up its history, which stretches back to pre-Roman times. It’s perfect for a day trip from Paris, especially for t…
ITALY’S IDYLLIC LAKE GARDA
The moat and drawbridge of the medieval fortress guards the entrance into Sirmione. Photo, Alamy
There aren’t many places in Europe more beautiful than Italy’s Lago di Garda. Its stunning scenery is due to the extensive backdrop of the Dolomite mountains to the north, together with all the picturesque towns and medieval villages dotted along its shore, it’s the perfect region to …
THE BEAUTIFUL RENAISSANCE CITY OF FERRARA
Castello Estense is in the centre of Ferrara. Photo, Alamy
The north of Italy has an abundance of riches for the visitor, and it’s almost impossible to make a list of top favourites. There’s the sublime beauty of the various lakes, the glories of Venice, and numerous small Renaissance cities to choose from. We’ve spent many wonderful trips exploring these Renaissance gems over decades, an…
VENICE DURING THE BIENNALE
Venice is always magical whether it’s a Biennale year or not.
We revisited Venice a few weeks ago for the first time since COVID shut down the world for travellers. Venice has been one of our top favourite cities for many decades, and this was to be our 4th Biennale, so we were interested to see what changes had occurred to La Serenissima since our last visit. Would it still be magical, o…
THE MAGNIFICENT BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE DE FRANCE HAS FINALLY RE-OPENED
The spectacular Reading Room, with its Byzantine-inspired multi-domed ceiling.
We had been walking past this enormous complex for years speculating about when it might re-open, wondering if we’d ever get to visit it one day. Imagine our surprise and delight when we saw the enormous posters announcing its re-opening in the metro stations on our first day back in Paris! It was still closed …
THE MYSTERIOUS KNIGHTS TEMPLARS AND THE ORIGINS OF THE MARAIS DISTRICT –
A depiction by Hoffbauer of the Enclos du Temple in 15450. Photo, Alamy
This district of Paris is one of the most historic and fascinating in the city. Nowadays, it’s known for hip boutiques, quirky art galleries, great cafes, restaurants and fresh food, a couple of delightful squares, and some of the best museums in the city. Although its origins were far from auspicious, it’s a place we…
LE MARCHÉ BASTILLE-RICHARD LENOIR—A GUARANTEED CULINARY ADVENTURE
The Marche Bastille – Richard-Lenoir. Photo, Alamy
There are dozens of outdoor markets in Paris, at least two in each of the city’s 20 arrondissements. Probably the largest, and many argue the best, is the fantastic Marché Richard-Lenoir—more commonly called the Marche Bastille, held Thursdays and Sundays along the grand Boulevard Richard Lenoir, just north of the Place de la Bastille. Th…
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO: A PERFECT DAY IN PARC DE SCEAUX – ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS NEAR PARIS
The Chateau de Sceaux.
If you’re looking for a very pleasant and interesting day trip from Paris, and you’ve already visited the big headline sites such as Versailles or Fontainebleau, the charming town of Sceaux is certainly one that offers everything you could wish for. Known for its rich architectural heritage, its picture-perfect château, museums, 13th century church, and magnificent p…
DISCOVERING THE BEAUTIFUL PARC MONCEAU AND ITS ELEGANT NEIGHBOURHOOD
The classical colonnade and pond in Parc Monceau. Photo, Alamy
In the last two posts, we have looked at two outstanding Paris museums, relatively little-known to visitors, both located in the 8th arrondissement, one just around the corner from the other. They are both close by the Parc Monceau, one of the most interesting and beautiful parks in the city, at the junction of Bvd. de Courcell…
THE CERNUSCHI MUSEUM OF ASIAN ART, PARIS
The grand staircase of the Musee Cernuschi. Photo, Alamy
The Musée Cernuschi is relatively unknown to most visitors to Paris. Located on a quiet, leafy street that leads up to the beautiful Parc Monceau in an ultra-exclusive area of the 8th arrondissement, it’s just around the corner from the Musée Nissim de Camondo. The Cernuschi is an Asian art museum, mostly specialising in works from …
L’HÔTEL DE LA MARINE – A TOUCH OF VERSAILLES IN THE HEART OF PARIS
Th Hotel de la Marine faces onto Place de la Concorde.
If you’ve been to Paris more than once, very likely you have been past the Hôtel de la Marine. This is not a hotel in which you stay, but a hôtel particulier of epic proportions. A “real” hotel, the historic, luxury Hôtel de Crillon, is adjacent. These opulent 18th century buildings are a perfectly balanced pair facing onto Place de …
LA SAMARITAINE, AN ICONIC PARISIAN DEPARTMENT STORE REBORN
The beautifully restored Art Nouveau interior of La Samaritaine.
La Samaritaine has finally re-emerged, like the phoenix rising, if not from the ashes, from a long hibernation of neglect and deterioration that left a gap on the city skyline between the river Seine and the busy rue de Rivoli. Its recent re-opening was a much anticipated event. After 16 long years of closure, renovations, …
A PARISIAN LANDMARK REIMAGINED: LA BOURSE DE COMMERCE–PINAULT COLLECTION
La Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Collection.
Over the last two years, despite the severe COVID restrictions, Paris somehow managed to work on a number of extraordinary cultural projects, most of which have now opened. These were not small-scale ventures by any means. As I’ve mentioned previously, two of these were the complete refurbishment of the enormous Musée Carnavalet, now re-opened, a…
LA GALERIE DIOR – A HOMAGE TO THE ARTISTRY OF THE ‘MASTER OF DREAMS’
Poster of the 1947 Bar Suit from the ‘Corolle’ collection by Christian Dior.
Near the top of our list of must-sees on our recent visit to Paris was the Christian Dior museum, La Galerie Dior, which I briefly mentioned in the last blog. I had read about its official opening, just 3 weeks before we hit town. A good friend of ours, the manager of the beautiful Zegna menswear boutique on Ave…
PARIS—AND THE REST OF FRANCE—ARE BACK IN BUSINESS!
A perfect spring day in the Upper Marais.
As some of you know, we have just returned from 5 weeks in France. It was a truly wonderful trip, spending 3 weeks in Paris before heading down to the glorious Burgundy district for almost 2 weeks. Like everyone for whom travel is an essential part of life, we were anxious to spread our wings and head back to our favourite destination after the C…
MUSÉE NISSIM DE CAMONDO – A MAGNIFICENT MANSION DEDICATED TO THE 18TH CENTURY
The design of the mansion was inspired by the Petit Trianon at Versailles.
There are so many wonderful museums in Paris, selecting which ones to visit when you’ve got limited time is a challenge. We certainly have our favourites, and we also keep an eye on websites of Paris cultural institutions to check if there will be any special shows on during our next visit. One of our favourites s…
A NEW WAVE OF MUSEUM RESTAURANTS IN PARIS
Girafe Restaurant at the Cite de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, Palais de Chaillot.
In a city that boasts over 140 museums, and a food culture that’s worth travelling from the other side of the world for, it a natural fit that there are going to be cafes and restaurants in certain Paris museums that are as worth visiting as the museums themselves. Some museum restaurants have become ico…
MUSEE GUIMET – 5,000 YEARS OF ASIAN ART IN PARIS
The Naga on the Causeway of the Giants, 12th century Cambodian.
When we think of museums in Paris, what immediately springs to mind are the internationally famous institutions such as the Louvre, Quai d’Orsay, Pompidou Centre, and perhaps the recent addition of the Fondation Louis Vuitton. But Paris also has the largest and most important collection of Asian artefacts in Europe at the Mus…
PALAIS GALLIERA – THE PARIS MUSEUM OF FASHION
Palais Galliera in its garden setting.
A stone’s throw from some of the most prestigious haute couture houses and designer boutiques in the city, the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris is housed in the Italian Renaissance-inspired Palais Galliera. The museum preserves some of the richest collections in the world, estimated at around 200,000 items of clothing, accessories, photographs, …
THE TROCADERO – PANORAMIC VIEWS, BEAUTIFUL GARDENS, FOUR MAJOR CULTURAL INSTITUTIONS, AND A SUPRISING SECRET
The vast Palais de Chaillot complex at the Trocadero.
Situated on the opposite side of the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, the Trocadéro is well and truly on the must-visit list for offering the best view of the most recognisable monument in Paris. It is also home to beautiful gardens, ornamental ponds and fountains that stretch down to the river, as well as the richness of the Palais de Chai…
PASSY – WHERE QUIET VILLAGE CHARM MEETS CULTURE & LUXURY
An Art Nouveau residential building in Passy
The 16th arrondissement of Paris is best known to visitors for its great landmarks and museums, from the Musée Marmottan-Monet, the Palais Galliera and Musée Guimet, to the Place de la Trocadero and the Palais Chaillot, affording dramatic views of the Eiffel Tower on the opposite bank of the Seine. But the 16th also has corners of quiet, resid…
RUE OBERKAMPF – A VIBRANT PARISIAN NEIGHBOURHOOD
The Cirque d’Hiver.
Beyond the iconic Place de la Republique—where Parisians gathered in their thousands after the 2015 attacks on their city—is a fascinating network of streets crammed with some of the city’s hippest venues, chic bars, great bistros, old craft workshops and up-and-coming designer boutiques. In Paris’ 11th arrondissement, rue Oberkampf and the streets around it offer an i…
TWO SECRET VILLAGES IN PARIS
La Butte aux Cailles is a delightful location for a quiet stroll.
If you’ve been to Paris a few times, no doubt you’ve taken in the big, headline monuments and sites such as the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Louvre, walked along the Champs Elysees and shopped ’til you dropped in Galeries Lafayette. These iconic places are internationally famous for a very good reason, but for your next v…
WHEN A PARIS PÉNICHE IS MORE THAN JUST A BARGE
A variety of boats & peniches moored along the Seine in Paris.
One of the most pleasant ways to relax in Paris is to take a stroll along the banks of the Seine. It’s a busy, working river with a constant flow of craft of all descriptions. Ranging from the many tourist boats crammed with sightseers enjoying the unique perspective of the city’s great landmarks from the river, to seriou…
GREAT FOOD MARKETS TO DISCOVER IN PARIS
Springtime at Marche d’Aligre: perfect asparagus & morels.
One of the great pleasures of a visit to Paris is spending time exploring the many wonderful food markets. You can take your pick from 69 open-air and 13 covered markets in the city, meaning that some arrondissements have more than one market. Everyone has their personal favourites, and we certainly have ours, but we also lov…
THE MUSÉE MARMOTTAN MONET – A LITTLE-KNOWN GEM IN PARIS
‘Impression, Sunrise’ by Monet, which inspired the name of the Impressionist movement.
A description that’s often used to describe the Musée Marmottan Monet is that it’s a “hidden” gem. Rather, I’d say it’s perhaps more overlooked than hidden, given its location in the chic Passy neighbourhood in the 16th arr. on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne, beside one of the loveliest parks in Paris….
LE CHÂTEAU DE VINCENNES – A MEDIEVAL FORTRESS IN PARIS
Th medieval fortress of Chateau de Vincennes.
When you think of châteaux in the Paris area, Versailles is likely the first that would spring to mind. For its sheer beauty, opulence and size, not to mention the wonderful gardens and parklands surrounding it, it’s no wonder that Versailles is one of the most visited destinations in the entire country. However, for those who have “been ther…
WHEN SHOPS TRANSFORM INTO ‘CONCEPT’ STORES
A small Parisian fashion studio that concentrates on handwork embellishment.
Paris has long been famous as a world capital of fashion and design, but it is also a city with a wealth of exciting design concept stores bursting with products unique to France. It’s a country and a society with a history of commitment to artisan craft skills, a deep appreciation of the handmade object, innovat…
RUE MOUFFETARD – A PARIS STREET PAVED WITH HISTORY
There are many delightful cafes in rue Mouffetard.
Around every corner of Paris you will find streets full of history. The secret to discovering the real Paris is to detour off the grand boulevards, famous squares and enticing shopping streets. If you delight in discovering special places, little nooks and crannies, narrow, ancient, pedestrianised streets beloved by locals but unknown to …
DISCOVER THE RICHES OF THE MARCHÉ AUX PUCES, PARIS
Marche Paul Bert.
To call the Marché aux Puces in Paris a “flea market” is an understatement. Regarded as the largest market of its kind in the world and with around 180,000-200,000 visitors each weekend, at first sight its sheer size can be a very daunting prospect. It is in fact a whole series of markets, segmented according to category and price level, ranging from vendors selling muse…
FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD – HOW TO SHOP AND EAT LIKE A LOCAL IN PARIS
Said to be the oldest patisserie in Paris, Stohrer is in rue Montorgueil.
Paris is Europe’s most densely populated city, and offers a mind-boggling array of food offers. There are even local Parisian products available, if you know where to look. One of the great advantages of renting an apartment rather than staying in a hotel is that you can explore so many wonderful culinary treats fr…
A WONDERFUL DAY TRIP FROM PARIS – CHÂTEAU DE CHANTILLY
The Chateau de Chantilly and its domaine.
Although France has so many impressive châteaux scattered throughout the country, there is one that never fails to take your breath away. The Château de Chantilly in Picardy is one of the most spectacular in France, set in a vast estate of 7,800 hectares. At less than 50kms from the centre of Paris, armed with your Navigo Pass it’s easily accessib…
ALL DRESSED UP FOR CHRISTMAS!
Printemps Dept. store on Bvd. Haussmann.
France is famous for its illuminations during the festive season. Despite the huge drop in numbers of visitors, and almost in defiance of the difficulties faced by everyone during this extraordinary year, Paris in particular is dressed with its usual impressive lighting displays to celebrate the holiday season.
ART NOUVEAU TREASURES OF THE PARISIAN BELLE ÉPOQUE
Cnr. rue de l’Eglise & Place Etienne Pernet, 15th arr.
The Belle Époque lasted from the 1870s to the beginning of World War One, and was at its height in Paris during the 1890s and 1900s. It was a period of great optimism and cultural innovation. It was an exciting time for art and theatre, as well as a new architectural movement generally referred to as Art Nouveau, which swept acro…
STEPPING BACK IN TIME: DISCOVERING ROMAN PARIS
The Musee de Cluny, with the Roman figidarium.
There aren’t many regions in Western Europe that were not once occupied by the Romans, and the city of Paris is no exception. When we think of modern day Paris, it’s probably more likely to be medieval marvels such as Notre Dame or Sainte Chapelle, perhaps monuments of the French Renaissance, Classical revival, the Belle Epoque, and of course…
MATISSE: A MAJOR RETROSPECTIVE IN PARIS
‘Sorrows of the King’ by Matisse, 1952.
The Pompidou Centre is celebrating the 150th anniversary of the birth of Henri Matisse, one of the most important artists of the 20th century. This special exhibition uses a novel published in 1971 by Louis Aragon, Henri Matisse: Roman as a framework to display not only 230 works, but also over 70 documents, books and archives related to him.
AN ENTIRE WEEKEND CELBRATING A NATION’S HERITAGE
Journees Europeennes du Patrimoine 2020 poster.
Every year in September, most European countries devote an entire weekend to the celebration and exploration of their cultural heritage through the European Heritage Days program. This year in France it was held on 19th – 20th of the month celebrating the theme “Heritage and Education: Learning for Life”.
Public and private owners of his…
CELEBRATING CULTURE AT AN ALL NIGHT FESTIVAL
Poster for the 2020 European Nuit des Musees.
The idea of celebrating culture with an annual all-night event that brings together all ages and tastes, started back in 1982 and has since become a world-wide phenomenon. In France, the Fête de la Musique is held on 21 June every year, and La Nuit des Musées falls around the middle of May. Events are free, hugely popular, with a festive atmos…
DISCOVER THE CANAL SAINT-MARTIN NEIGHBOURHOOD IN PARIS
Take a leisurely cruise along the Canal Saint-Martin.
For many visitors to Paris, if they know of its existence at all, the attraction of a leisurely boat ride along the Canal St. Martin lies in its being a great way to relax after a frenetic few days packed with sightseeing, or a few too many shopping trips. Delightful as a canal trip is, there is a whole lot more to this northern part of…
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – THE CHÂTEAU DE MALMAISON
Le Chateau de Malmaison.
Famous as the last residence of the Empress Joséphine, it’s also synonymous with her cultivation of rare and exotic plant species hitherto unknown in France, but especially the importation and propagation of roses. This small château, with its fascinating memorabilia of its most famous residents and its beautiful garden, is barely 15kms west of central Paris, maki…
EXPERIENCE THE UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE OF A CONCERT IN A PARIS CHURCH
A concert in the magnificent Sainte Chapelle.
If you’ve never attended a concert in one of the many historic churches in Paris, you’re in for a very special treat. The wonderful acoustics, soaring ceilings, beautiful stained-glass windows, timeless stone sculptures and sometimes priceless paintings, all combine to create an atmosphere that cannot be experienced in a regular concert venue.
DISCOVERING THE PALAIS-ROYAL, PARIS
The Palais-Royal and Gardens.
It has always come as a surprise to us that the Palais-Royal, although situated in the heart of Paris, is so often missed by visitors. Perhaps it’s because the entrance isn’t obvious or perhaps visitors are distracted by a visit to the Louvre, which is opposite. For a weary visitor, the beautiful gardens of the historic Palais-Royal are a haven of peace and …
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – THE CHÂTEAU DE FONTAINEBLEAU
Aerial view of the Chateau de Fontainebleau.
On a list of ‘must sees’ for most visitors to Paris, along with the obvious sights such as the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre etc., is likely to be the Château de Versailles. Far less familiar though is the Château de Fontainebleau, arguably the centre of the history of French monarchy. No site in France can compare as a royal residence. It predate…
THE REMARKABLE STORIES OF THE THREE PARIS PAGODAS – Part 2
La Pagoda Paris is unmissable on its prominent street corner.
This story continues on from my previous post about one of the three Paris pagodas, the Japanese-style pagoda, known as La Pagode, which was converted to a much-loved cinema. The other two are equally fascinating, with their own surprising stories to tell.
The three Paris Pagodas are as visually startling, unexpected delight…
THE REMARKABLE PARIS PAGODAS – Part 1
When the cinema was known as LaPagode de Babylone.
Paris has three remarkable and unusual pagodas. Curiously, only one of them was built as a shrine. Of the other two, one is bold and conspicuous, while the other is discreet and hidden within a dense bamboo and ginko garden. What the three have in common is that their histories are fascinating, with just a hint of mystery.
REJUVENATING THE CHAMPS ÉLYSÉES
The Champs Elysees.
The Champs Élysées is surely the iconic avenue in Paris. It conjures up images of a wide, tree-lined boulevard lined with magnificent Beaux-Art style buildings occupied by elegant designer boutiques, discreet luxury hotels, the famous Lido cabaret, and like a giant exclamation mark, the Arc de Triomphe marking the summit. The reality though is that over the last few y…
THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING EXCITING ON IN PARIS
One of the fabulous shoes at the Christian Louboutin show at the Palais de la Porte Doree.
Trying to distil the huge number of exhibitions and concerts happening in any year in Paris into a list of highlights is an almost impossible task. This year is no exception, but any year will have so many visual feasts and surprises, it’s one of the great pleasures, and dilemmas, in planning a visit.
So, what’s good about Paris in the Winter
Galeries Lafayette always has magnificent Christmas decorations
The thing we especially look forward to at this time of year is heading to the northern hemisphere for a couple of weeks. It’s a welcome break from heat, humidity, and right now the heartbreaking drought conditions that’s affecting so much of our wide, brown (read: burnt) land. We love the whole, over-the-top festive razzamat…
New Etchings of Paris – by Rodney Moss
Notre Dame from the Seine, etching by Rodney Moss 2019. Photo, Ben Wrigley
Paris Plus Plus has great pleasure in presenting the first three etchings of sketches of Paris by well-known Australian architect-turned-artist, Rodney Moss. Rodney has generously offered to donate all profit from the sale of Notre Dame from the Seine to the Notre Dame Restoration Fund, established by the French Gove…
Spectacular Capri – Southern Italy’s Isola Bella
Statue of Caesar Augustus at Monte Solaro.
Lying at the southern edge of the Bay of Naples, beyond the Sorrentine peninsula, the rocky island of Capri has been renowned as a holiday destination for about two thousand years. It’s an island of myths, Roman emperors and their infamous orgies, luxury yachts and the occasional A-list celebrity, but above all, the most spectacular vistas imagin…
FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON – FRANK GEHRY’S MODERN MASTERPIECE FOR PARIS
A bird’s eye view of Fondation Louis Vuitton.
“I dream of designing a magnificent vessel for Paris that symbolises France’s profound cultural vocation.”
With these words, the famous Canadian-American architect, creator of Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum (1997), gave his blessing to the opening, in October 2014, of his latest masterpiece, the Fondation Louis Vuitton, Paris. We were lucky e…
THE VIADUC DES ARTS—ARTISANS’ PRECINCT & ELEVATED LINEAR GARDEN OASIS
The arches of the Viaduc des Arts are filled with cafes and artisan businesses.
Built in 1859, this former elevated railway viaduct came into Paris from the east, terminating at Place de la Bastille in the 12th arr. After the creation of the RER A line in 1969 the Viaduc de Bastille became redundant, gradually declining into another example of neglect and decay that was slated for demoliti…
THE BEAUTIFUL PASSAGES COUVERTS OF PARIS
The famous passages couverts—covered passages—of Paris were an early form of shopping arcades, mostly dating from the first half of the 19th century. By the 1850s, there were around 150 covered passages in Paris, although Haussmann’s massive urban renewal program of Paris saw a number of these demolished. Of those that remain, some are still dusty and forgotten, awaiting revitalisation, but there are many that have been beautifully restored to their original Ar…
DISCOVER SOME OF THE BEST FLEA MARKETS IN FRANCE
You can find anything at a French brocante!
France is a great place to pick up bargain vintage wares. If a visit to a flea market, rummaging through racks of vintage fashion, or just the thrill of the chase, hoping to find that diamond in the rough, is your idea of a great day out, then France has a wealth of unforgettable experiences waiting for you, right across the country.
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – POISSY
The Villa Savoye at Poissy, designed by Le Corbusier.
Located 24 kms west of Paris on the River Seine and bordering the royal forest of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, lies the fortified town of Poissy. An important religious centre in the Middle Ages, it was also a royal city and the birthplace of Kings Louis IX—later sanctified as Saint Louis—and Philippe III, and today known as the location of…
MUST-SEE GARDENS IN & AROUND PARIS
Cherry Blossom time in Parc de Sceaux.
When we think of great things to see and do in Paris, our first thoughts often go to the world famous monuments, incredible museums, fantastic range of food and some of the best shopping in the world. Often overlooked are the wonderful green spaces, all of which contribute to all these unforgettable experiences.
NEW LIFE FOR TWO HISTORIC COMPLEXES IN HONG KONG
Tai Kwun Heritage & Arts Centre.
As well as being a perennial shopping mecca, Hong Kong has some exciting new projects that have breathed new life into a number of landmark historic buildings. Two of these are the former Central Police Station complex and the former Police Married Quarters, both on Hong Kong Island.
KARL LAGERFELD, CREATIVE GENIUS
Karl Lagerfeld with his beloved Choupette.
Credited as the design maestro who resurrected Chanel from a sure and certain fate of irrelevance when he became art director of the House in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld died in Paris on 19 February at the age of 85.
MORET-SUR-LOING – ANOTHER IN THE OCCASIONAL SERIES, TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO
Moret-sur-Loing.
This picturesque medieval town lies along the banks of the tranquil waters of the river Loing, a tributary of the Seine, just a little over 9 kms from the south–east edge of the forest surrounding the Chateau de Fontainebleau. The town is postcard pretty, offering many opportunities for keen photographers. It also inspired many Impressionist painters such as …
WHY GO TO PARIS IN MID WINTER?
Exhibition poster for Musee Marmottan-Monet’s winter exhibition.
Although winter has well and truly settled in for a while, this doesn’t mean that that Paris is quietly slumbering or even slowing down. On the contrary, during the winter months the city is abuzz with fabulous exhibitions, imaginative concert programs and other great things to do, such as the eagerly awaited start of the end…
CHARTRES AND ITS GLORIOUS CATHEDRAL
The Cathedral’s main facade during the Illuminations.
Just 50 kms southwest from Paris, Chartres is within easy reach if you’re visiting the capital. Notre-Dame de Chartres looms over the surrounding countryside and its tall spires are clearly visible as you approach the town. Its inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979 describes it as being “the high point of French Gothic …
DISCOVER RUE PONCELET’S OUTSTANDING OUTDOOR MARKET
According to the Mairie de Paris, there are more than 82 markets in Paris. This equates to at least one market in every one of the 20 arrondissements of Paris, and the number increases the further out you head from the centre.
One of the best-loved markets for Parisians is located in the rue Poncelet in the 17th arrondissement.
BELLA BELLAGIO, THE JEWEL OF LAKE COMO
Beautiful Lake Como.
Northern Italy offers a wonderful series of lakes, and Lake Como is generally regarded as the most spectacular of them all. Its unmistakable upturned Y shape was carved out of a glacier that was forced to split into two by the mountain that stood in its path. Today, the dramatic Dolomites surround the lake, with often a dusting of snow at the highest peaks visible e…
A FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS AT THE JARDIN DES PLANTES, PARIS
The official poster for the Festival de Lumieres.
This year’s Festival de Lumières at the Jardin des Plantes is the first time the event has been held in Paris and the region. Called Especes en Voie d’Illumination, ‘Species in the Process of Enlightenment’, it’s an incredible visual feast for adults and children alike that takes the form of a nocturnal walk along the paths and lawns, sp…
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES
Neptune Sculpture in the gardens of Chateau de Versailles.
The history of Versailles is inextricably linked with Louis VIV, although there had been a residence there for centuries before he ascended the throne. As Dauphin, Louis XIV had loved to hunt in the forests surrounding the small chateau that his father Louis XIII had rebuilt from the original brick and stone hunting lodge. Thes…
A NIGHT AT THE OPERA—AT THE ROMAN ARENA, VERONA
‘Aida’ at the Arena
This year was the 96th season of opera to be held in the spectacular Roman Arena at Verona. A little older than Rome’s Coliseum, it was built around 30AD during the reign of the Emperor Caligula, and was said to be capable of holding more than 30,000 spectators. Its outstanding acoustics has ensured its popularity for centuries, with the first operatic performances t…
CELEBRATING 350 YEARS OF THE PARIS OPÉRA BALLET
Palais Garnier, home of the Paris Opera Ballet.
The season’s opening on 27 September this year marked the 350th anniversary of the Paris Opéra Ballet. Over the next 16 months, there will be ample opportunity for Champagne-popping as it celebrates its founding by Louis XlV on 28 June 1669.
SIRMIONE, LAKE GARDA—HOME TO A MOATED CASTLE AND AN ENORMOUS ROMAN VILLA
Scaglieri Castle, the entrance into Sirmione.
‘The pearl of islands!’ wrote the Roman poet Catullus in the 1st century BCE, describing the town of Sirmione, on the southern shore of beautiful Lake Garda in northern Italy. Less than 40 kms from Verona and 150 kms from Venice, Lake Garda is ideally placed to visit one of the loveliest parts of northern Italy.
EUROPEAN HERITAGE DAYS: VISITING RARELY ACCESSIBLE PLACES—FOR FREE!
Emmanuel Macron welcoming visitors to the Elysee Palace.
This year was the 35th edition of European Heritage Days that take place in September every year. During the designated weekend doors are opened to thousands of monuments and sites, many of which aren’t normally open to the public, or offer only limited access. As visits are free, the idea is to encourage people to learn about the…
Artful Shopping – exploring museum shops in Paris
The Louvre Museum shop has the Venus de Milo in any colour you could wish.
When it comes to shopping, Paris offers such a wealth of choice with its boutique-lined streets and elegant department stores. It seems that almost everywhere you turn you will discover enticing little shops full of alluring goodies to tempt you.
MUSÉE YVES SAINT LAURENT, PARIS
Musee Yves St Laurent.
A fitting celebration of the designer’s life and work, this jewel of a museum was opened by the French Minister of Culture in October 2017. Housed in a beautiful Second Empire mansion, which was formerly the premises of his haute couture maison in the discreetly elegant 16th arrondissement, it is an enduring tribute to this legendary designer.
A LITTLE-KNOWN GEM – PARC DES BUTTES-CHAUMONT
The green slopes of the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
We recently discovered one of the gems of Paris that we had been meaning to visit for a very long time. Off the tourist beaten track in the north east of Paris in the 19th arr., the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is one of the largest outdoor spaces in the city.
BEFORE VERSAILLES THERE WAS VAUX-LE-VICOMTE – TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO
Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte.
As discussed in a recent blog, there are many exciting possibilities for exploring Paris and its regions if you’re armed with a Navigo travel pass. The 17th century masterpiece Vaux-le-Vicomte is just one of 100 châteaux about an hour or less from Paris, many of which are open to the public. A Navigo pass makes a visit to this magnificent château easy to achieve.
The Place des Vosges through the Seasons
Place des Vosges.
One of the best-loved outdoor spaces where Parisians like to hang out at any time of year is the elegant Place des Vosges, in the heart of the famous Marais district.
It’s also one of our favourite places, and has come to express for us the changing seasonal character of the city.
ATELIER DES LUMIÈRES – THE NEW DIGITAL ART CENTRE IN PARIS
The current show at the Atelier des Lumieres
An exciting new venue for the arts opened in Paris in mid April 2018. Located in the former Plichon cast-iron foundry built in 1835, it has over 3,000 sq. metres of surface area and walls up to 10 metres high. It took two years to prepare the building for its new life as the city’s most innovative space for presenting art, using all the techn…
EXPLORING THE ILE SAINT-LOUIS
L’Ile St Louis cafes.
Everyone visiting Paris heads to the Ile de la Cité, the large island in the middle of the river Seine, to visit Notre Dame Cathedral. However, the smaller of the two islands, Ile Saint-Louis, can easily be overlooked.
It has retained its 17th century charm, most of its magnificent historic buildings, and its medieval streets.
WHERE TO FIND GREAT FASHION IN PARIS – THE HAUT MARAIS
The Haut Marais logo
I’m often asked for shopping tips by those off to Paris, especially since many people know I spent about 35 years in the fashion industry. Where I like to explore isn’t the usual suspects such as St Germain des Pres or the big department stores (although I don’t ignore those). Instead, one of the first neighourhoods I head to for some fashion retail therapy is the 3…
WHAT’S ON IN PARIS – CURRENT & UPCOMING EXHIBITIONS
Crowds queuing for the Louvre.
If you’re heading to Paris this year, you’ll make the most of your stay by checking out well in advance what exhibitions will be on. The French are great exhibition goers, and if there’s something important at one of the many venues in the city, you can bet your life the locals will be there in droves. Add large numbers of visitors and it’s easy…
PARIS ON A PLATE: PLACE MONGE MARKET
The freshest seasonal produce, available all year round.
The numerous outdoor markets of Paris are one of the many reasons why we love coming to Paris! If great food and the freshest produce are passions of yours too, next time you’re in Paris, make sure to get to Place Monge on a market day.