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Beyond Paris

AIX-EN-PROVENCE, ONE OF THE MOST ANCIENT AND LOVELIEST TOWNS IN FRANCE

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Evening on Place de l’Hotel de Ville in the heart of Aix-en-Provence. Photo, Alamy One of our all-time favourite towns in France, and certainly our top favourite in Provence, Aix-en-Provence never fails to enchant every time.  We first visited the town back in the 1970s, …

LOURMARIN, ONE OF THE MOST PICTURESQUE VILLAGES IN PROVENCE

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View of Lourmarin, with many its vineyards and orchards, at the foot of the Luberon. The village of Lourmarin is one of the loveliest in the region, and it comes as no surprise that it has been designated one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France.  Every time we’re in this…

FRÉJUS: SO MUCH MORE THAN A SEASIDE RESORT

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The Esterel Corniche from Frejus to St Tropez We have driven along the Esterel Corniche (coast road) from Nice heading to St Tropez many times over the years, and have often stopped at the pretty coastal town of Fréjus for lunch at one of the many attractive beachside cafes.  We’ve walked around it, enjoyed browsing through the numerous resort-wear shops, or simply rested on a beachside se…

EXPLORING THE CÔTE D’AZUR HINTERLAND

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Sunset at Tourrettes-sur-Loup. The Côte d’Azur has so many wonderful attractions, many of which aren’t associated with beaches, famous luxury hotels or shopping—although the area offers plenty of all those!  If you’d like a little time out from the activities of the cities, beaches and what we think of as the typical Riviera pursuits, think about heading up into the surrounding hills and l…

A FABULOUS DAY TRIP FROM NICE – THE FONDATION MAEGHT, ST PAUL DE VENCE AND VENCE

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The perched, medieval village of Saint Paul de Vence. Photo, Alamy One of the most famous perched villages on the Riviera is St Paul de Vence.  It’s within easy reach of Nice for a lovely day out, and what’s more, it’s very near the location of one of the most outstanding art museums in France, the Fondation Maeght.  Not far from the Fondation Maeght is the village of Vence (not to be conf…

DISCOVER MORE GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS NEAR NICE

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View from the coast of Antibes Old Town. Photo, Shutterstock There are so many great attractions to explore along the Riviera, and we’ve looked at just a few of these in the last couple of blog stories.  The department of the Alpes-Maritimes is characterised by a profusion of artistic and cultural institutions—there are said to be more than 62 museums and foundations which bear witness to …

SOME FAVOURITE MUSEUMS, GALLERIES AND SIGHTS IN AND AROUND NICE

The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild is in a stunning location overlooking the Mediterranean. Nice has a wealth of sights and attractions, and we looked at some of them in the previous story.  The enormous number of museums, galleries and great attractions in Nice and its immediate vicinity showcase everything from art to archaeological artefacts to Provençal perched villages.  It’s a challeng…

NICE – JEWEL OF THE FRENCH RIVIERA

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Panoramic view of the Old Port of Nice. Photo, Shutterstock No matter how often you visit the city of Nice on the French Riviera, there are always plenty of delights to experience and explore.  It wasn’t always the case though.  For many years, much of Nice was run-down and the area close to the docks was nothing more than a seedy sailors’ haunt.  This was certainly the case when we first …

MONET’S HOUSE AND GARDEN: VISITING GIVERNY

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Masses of rose bushes were planted in front of Monet’s house. I am often asked by friends and colleagues for suggestions for day trips out of Paris.  There are so many destinations and great things to see and do, it’s a case of, “well, what are you interested in” or “how many trips do you want to do?”  One destination that comes up more than most is Monet’s house and garden at Giverny.  Ev…

THE SPARKLING SEASIDE TOWN OF LA ROCHELLE

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The St Nicolas Tower and the Tour de la Chaine at the mouth of the old port of La Rochelle Less than 2 hours by car up the coast from Bordeaux will take you to the beautiful port city of La Rochelle.  One of the country’s most important seaports from the 14th to 17th centuries, the city’s luminous limestone façades glow in the bright coastal sunlight.  Although its old commercial harbour, …

EXPLORING THE COAST FROM BORDEAUX TO LA ROCHELLE

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The Ville d’Ete in Arcachon. Our initial idea was to make our way straight from Bordeaux up the coast, and although we had intended to stop off briefly along the way at various points of interest, our main aim was simply to get to La Rochelle.  We had been to La Rochelle some years ago, and remembered it as being a very attractive port town with lots to see and do.  However, we hadn’t real…

DISCOVERING BORDEAUX

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Porte Cailhou on Place du Palais. Photo, Shutterstock The city of Bordeaux is now such a pleasure to visit and explore, with a rich historic heritage of elegant historic stone buildings, impressive monuments that invite the visitor to stroll along its pedestrian streets, into any number of bistros, Michelin-starred restaurants, wine bars and enticing shops that draw you in.  The city today…

SAINT ÉMILION – WORLD FAMOUS WINES, MEDIEVAL MONUMENTS AND CAPTIVATING SCENERY

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The pretty medieval town of Saint-Emilion is surrounded by its famous vineyards Saint-Émilion is a charming medieval village, perched on a promontory, located in the heart of the famous Bordeaux wine area.  It is a unique site where world famous wineries produce fine wine, and together with beautiful architecture and great monuments, are a perfect match.  We had visited this lovely village…

AN EXTRAORDINARY DIGITAL ART SPACE AND A UNIQUE EXHIBITION BUILDING DEVOTED TO THE WORLD OF WINE

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Aerial view of the Cite du Vin, Bordeaux It had been some years since our last visit to Bordeaux, and the city has acquired a couple of great new attractions.  One we were keen to visit turned out to be of the most remarkable cultural venues we have ever seen.  We were familiar with Culturespaces’ Paris space, the Atelier des Lumières, housed in a former iron foundry, which itself is a fant…

MORE GREAT ATTRACTIONS TO DISCOVER SOUTH OF BORDEAUX

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Gardens of Chateau d’Yquem. Our travels in this region revealed far more than we had expected.  There is such a wealth of great places to visit just south of Bordeaux, ranging from world famous vineyards such as Château d’Yquem, while others are much less well-known, and a few hardly known at all outside the region.  There are a great number of fortified châteaux, many of them impressive ru…

DISCOVER SOME OF THE CHATEAUX AND MONUMENTS SOUTH OF BORDEAUX

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The fortress Chateau de Roquetaillade. When we think of French châteaux, we tend to think, first and foremost, of the Loire Valley .  If you have explored those many glorious palaces in their magnificent garden settings, and love the idea of doing a châteaux-focussed trip elsewhere in France, may I strongly suggest you consider at least some of the huge number in the Gironde region just sou…

MOISSAC, A MEDIEVAL GEM IN L’OCCITANIE

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The Abbaye St Pierre, Moissac An hour’s drive north of Toulouse lies the medieval town of Moissac at the confluence of the Garonne and Tarn rivers, at the Canal de Garonne.  We had been to Moissac a few years ago, drawn by the town’s medieval Abbey.  It was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998 as a landmark church on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela.  Renowned fo…

CASTRES – AN UNKNOWN GEM IN THE LANGUEDOC, AND A RUINED ABBEY

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Castres’ historic painted houses that line the river Agout. We have been travelling around the Languedoc region on and off for many years, and this time, as well as returning to some old favourites, we were keen to seek out a few places and sights we hadn’t visited before.  We thought we would drive from Marseille up towards Bordeaux, and during our research, we kept coming across the name …

THE HILLTOP CITY OF LAON – MEDIEVAL CAPITAL OF FRANCE

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Laon’s enormous cathedral dominates the town. Situated high above the flat plain of northern Picardy, is the medieval city of Laon, known as the ‘Montagne Couronnée’ (the Crowned City).  It sits isolated atop a 100m high limestone rock, surrounded by the low, flat plains below.  The high town, encircled by 8 kms of walls and formidable gates, is France’s largest protected historic centre.  …

TWO ART DECO WONDERS IN LILLE, NORTHERN FRANCE

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The Art Deco La Piscine Museum, formerly a municipal swimming pool The City of Lille in the north of France is one of the loveliest in the country.  Although largely unknown outside France, Lille has so much to captivate the visitor.  From a beautiful historic quarter, much of which is pedestrianised, to great food, excellent shopping possibilities, and an enormous number of cultural attrac…

DISCOVER LILLE, ONE OF FRANCE’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS

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Grand Place, Lille and its beautiful Flemish-style architectue. Photo, Shutterstock Capital of the Hautes-de-France region, Lille may be France’s most underrated city.  Recent decades have seen the country’s 4th largest city transform from an industrial powerhouse into a vibrant and highly attractive cultural and commercial hub.  Lille offers a beautiful old town with magnificent French and…

MORE THAN A MOTOR RACING CIRCUIT, THE CITY OF LE MANS IS ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS OF FRANCE

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The historic Cite Plantagenet, Le Mans. Photo, Alamy Mention the town of Le Mans, and many of us would probably first think of the motor racing circuit famous for its gruelling 24 hr. endurance race held every year in June.  The majority of visitors at that event watch the race, enjoy the local cuisine and the friendly bars and leave.  Amazingly, most of them never realise that there is a b…

DISCOVERING THE ANCIENT TOWN OF SOISSONS – A GREAT DAY TRIP FROM PARIS

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Modern Soissons has many historic references to its vivid history. The town of Soissons in Picardy, designated a City of Art and History, has deep, obscure roots that date back to ancient Gaul.  It occupied a strategic location, much fought over by Caesar and his Roman legions and the Gallic tribes, and later became an important city in the Frankish Empire, eventually becoming its capital—t…

SENLIS – 2,000 YEARS OF HISTORY JUST A DAY TRIP FROM PARIS

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The Catheddrale Notre-Dame, Senlis The medieval town of Senlis is situated near the magnificent Château estate and town of Chantilly.  It’s the kind of French town in which you could happily lose yourself for hours, wandering along the narrow, cobblestoned alleyways and soaking up its history, which stretches back to pre-Roman times.  It’s perfect for a day trip from Paris, especially for t…

THE ROMAN & MEDIEVAL ERAS – TWO FACES OF VAISON LA ROMAINE

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Vaison la Romaine. Photo, Alamy Provence is renowned for some of the most spectacular and extensive remains of the Roman empire.  There are sites whose main claim to fame are the vast Roman arenas—most, if not all, still in regular use—monumental arches and temples dedicated to honour a variety of deities, including emperors themselves.  We all know of the Pont du Gard and the spectacular a…

L’ISLE-SUR-LA-SORGUE – THE ANTIQUES CAPITAL OF PROVENCE

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The river Sorgue flows in and around the town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Many of the towns and villages of Provence have something quite individual that has defined what they have become and what they are known for.  Some have marvellous Roman ruins, stunning views, or perhaps a medieval fortress or two.  L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is one of our must-visits and we often plan our itinerary around it…

SIMIANE-LA-ROTONDE & A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN – LITTLE-KNOWN GEMS IN HAUTE PROVENCE

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Approaching the perched village of Simiane-la-Rotonde. We tend to think that there’s not many undiscovered places left in Provence these days.  However, there are interesting little corners of the region that still remain relatively untouched and almost devoid of visitors.  Simiane-la-Rotonde is one such place: clinging to a small hill on a high plateau to the northeast of Apt and the Luber…

TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO: A PERFECT DAY IN PARC DE SCEAUX – ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS NEAR PARIS

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The Chateau de Sceaux. If you’re looking for a very pleasant and interesting day trip from Paris, and you’ve already visited the big headline sites such as Versailles or Fontainebleau, the charming town of Sceaux is certainly one that offers everything you could wish for.  Known for its rich architectural heritage, its picture-perfect château, museums, 13th century church, and magnificent p…

WALKING THROUGH A WORK OF ART – MONET’S GARDENS AT GIVERNY

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Front entrance to Monet’s house in Giverny. Photo, Alamy We have often been asked about visiting Monet’s gardens at Giverny.  How difficult is it to get there independently, or is it best to take a tour from Paris?  Is it really worth it, or has it become a victim of tourist hype?  Are the hordes of visitors a turn-off?  Is it possible for those who want to experience the atmosphere and tra…

A FEAST OF FESTIVALS IN FRANCE

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One of the many fabulous displays made of citrus fruit during the Fete du Citron, Menton. From history to fantasy, and everything in between, there are plenty of festivals in France where you can experience the country’s vibrant culture.  These events celebrate everything from the latest movies, the medieval period, art, wine, parks & gardens, kites, lemons, and dragons, to theatre, ope…

PARIS—AND THE REST OF FRANCE—ARE BACK IN BUSINESS!

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A perfect spring day in the Upper Marais.  As some of you know, we have just returned from 5 weeks in France.  It was a truly wonderful trip, spending 3 weeks in Paris before heading down to the glorious Burgundy district for almost 2 weeks.  Like everyone for whom travel is an essential part of life, we were anxious to spread our wings and head back to our favourite destination after the C…

MORE GREAT SIGHTS TO DISCOVER IN THE DORDOGNE

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Rocamadour at sunset.  Recently we’ve been looking at a number of beautiful places to visit in the Dordogne—a region blessed with a wealth of attractions.  There are many beautiful villages—a number of which are members of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France organisation—enough to keep a visitor occupied for weeks.  The region has some lovely towns and stunning châteaux and romantic ruins to …

THE REMARKABLE LIFE OF JOSEPHINE BAKER – CABARET STAR, RESISTANCE HEROINE, ACTIVIST AND OWNER OF A DORDOGNE CHATEAU

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Josephine wearing her famous banana costume. Iconic entertainer of the Jazz Age, famous for her risqué performances, Josephine Baker’s extraordinary story is one of perseverance, bravery, and incredible talent.  She was a force to be reckoned with, whether fighting racism in her native America or spying on top Nazis.  She found new ways to challenge those who sought to diminish or silence h…

SARLAT, MEDIEVAL GEM OF THE DORDOGNE

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The beautiful medieval town of Sarlat in the Dordogne.  The town of Sarlat-la-Canéda is the capital of the Périgord Noir.  Located between the Dordogne and Vézère Valleys, it is regarded as having one of the most beautiful and cohesive collection of medieval buildings in Europe and classified as a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire.  Sarlat has the highest density of listed historic buildings per sq…

LES PLUS BEAUX VILLAGES IN THE DORDOGNE-PÉRIGORD

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Views such as this are typical of the Dordogne-Perigord region.  Boasting more villages designated as Les Plus Beaux Villages de France than any other region, except perhaps Provence, the Dordogne has some of the finest treasures of natural and cultural heritage in the country.  You’ll find fortress châteaux, churches, honey-coloured stone buildings, troglodyte cave dwellings, ancient barns…

LES PLUS BEAUX VILLAGES DE FRANCE

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The village of Polignac and its fortress, listed in Sept. 2021.  In September 2021 two more villages achieved the highly prized acceptance into the association of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, namely Polignac in the Haute-Loire, and Le Malzieu-Ville in the Lozere.  It’s certainly no secret that France abounds with picture-perfect destinations.  If you’ve ever spent time exploring rural…

MONT SAINT-MICHEL, NORMANDY’S JEWEL IN THE CROWN

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Rising tide at sunset, Mont Saint-Michel.  It is surely one of the most stunningly beautiful sights in Europe, and in its setting in a bay shared by Normandy and Brittany, Le Mont Saint-Michel draws the eye from a great distance.  It has been a great Christian pilgrimage site from the early 8th century when a local bishop claimed that the Archangel Michael himself came to him in a vision an…

ROUEN- NORMANDY’S VIBRANT, HISTORIC & CULTURAL CAPITAL

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The Gros Horloge Rouen.  Situated on the banks of the river Seine, Rouen is the capital of the Haute Normandie region.  An active port and commercial city even in the Roman era and Middle ages, Rouen has a number of ornate Gothic churches, beautiful medieval half-timbered houses, a cobblestoned pedestrian centre and its famous astronomical clock.  Even if you’ve never been there, you’ll lik…

HISTORIC NORMANDY – FROM THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY, CHÂTEAUX, MEDIEVAL TOWNS & A RICH CUISINE

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Beauvour-Druval, on the Route de Cidre.  Normandy offers a rich feast of contrasts for the visitor, ranging from fashionable beach resorts, stunning scenery that inspired the Impressionists and the dramatic coast of the D-Day Landings, which we’ve touched on in the last couple of blogs.  There’s a whole lot more to explore though, from historic artefacts, medieval fairs and ruined abbeys, t…

NORMANDY AND THE D-DAY LANDINGS

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‘The Braves’ sculpture on Omaha Beach.  As well as the delightful seaside towns such as Deauville, Trouville and Honfleur and the extraordinary natural phenomena of Étretat, there’s another important aspect of the Normandy coast.  It’s something of a pilgrimage site for travellers who want to visit the landscape of the momentous day that changed the course of history.  The D-Day Landings ju…

EXPLORING SOME HIGHLIGHTS OF NORMANDY’S NORTH COAST

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The dramatic white falaises at Etretat.  If Deauville is the most recognised resort in Normandy, with its long, sandy beach, grand Belle Epoque hotels and typical Norman houses, it’s only the introduction to so many outstanding attractions that the region has to offer with its beautiful, varied scenery and rich history.  Boasting gorgeous countryside, coastline and woodlands, as well as imp…

DEAUVILLE, THE RIVIERA OF NORMANDY, AND COCO CHANEL

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Sketch of Coco Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld, attached to the shop where she opened her first boutique. Just 2 ½ hrs from Paris by train, Deauville is a favourite destination for many well-heeled Parisians looking for a weekend getaway.  It’s often referred to as the Queen of the Normandy coast, ‘Paris-sur-Mer’ or the Kingdom of Elegance.  Notable for its long sandy beach, beautiful Belle Epoque…

SOME LESSER-KNOWN GEMS OF THE CHAMPAGNE DISTRICT

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The vineyards and village of Ay. There are many good reasons to plan a visit to the Champagne District.  By focussing on the two Champagne “capitals”—the city of Reims and the town of Épernay, the visitor is missing out on so many other attractions of this unique area.  This region is rich with World Heritage sites, history and art.  It’s easy to spend a couple of extra days divided between…

THE CHAMPAGNE EXPERIENCE – THE REGION AND ITS PLEASURES

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Just a small selection of great Champagnes!  Say the word “Champagne”, and the first thing that springs to mind is the iconic sparkling white wine named for the region in N.E. France where it’s produced.  It’s an area that’s close to Paris for a quick weekend visit, but it has so much more to offer!  Champagne is world-renowned as a symbol of the French art of living, of festivities and cel…

DISCOVER THE FASCINATING MEDIEVAL CITY OF TROYES

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The medieval heart of Troyes.  Troyes is one of the most alluring and interesting medieval towns in France.  It’s easy to spend at least a couple of days wandering around, in and out of many historic buildings, fascinating museums, and the numerous beautiful churches.  Its medieval core invites you to stop and enjoy one of the many enticing cafés and restaurants, watch the world go by and e…

NANTES – THRIVING CITY AT THE MOUTH OF THE LOIRE

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The mechanical Great Elephone, one of the Machines de L’Ile de Nantes.  The city of Nantes in western France is located just 50kms from the Atlantic Ocean.  Nowadays, it’s the capital of the Pays de la Loire Region, but will always be known as the capital of Brittany, when the Dukes of Brittany ruled from here until the Duchy was united with France in the 16th century.  The city is home to …

THE LURE OF THE LOIRE – PART 2

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Chateau d’Usse and part of the gardens.  As we’ve seen in the previous post, the Loire Valley has a wealth of lively towns and villages, plus world renowned vineyards and enchanting scenery to keep any visitor happily engaged for numerous visits.  Not only are the many châteaux a window into a world of grandeur and history, it’s possible to have a more personal experience of these historic …

THE LURE OF THE LOIRE: EXPLORING ITS CHATEAUX, GARDENS & SO MUCH MORE – PART ONE

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Beautiful scenery abounds all along the river Loire.  With an abundance of charming historic towns and villages, world famous vineyards, beautiful gardens, sweeping forests, great architectural monuments and majestic châteaux, the “Garden of France”, and “The Valley of Kings,” as the region is variously known, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a must-see for a memorable visit t…

A WONDERFUL DAY TRIP FROM PARIS – CHÂTEAU DE CHANTILLY

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The Chateau de Chantilly and its domaine. Although France has so many impressive châteaux scattered throughout the country, there is one that never fails to take your breath away.  The Château de Chantilly in Picardy is one of the most spectacular in France, set in a vast estate of 7,800 hectares.  At less than 50kms from the centre of Paris, armed with your Navigo Pass it’s easily accessib…

ALL DRESSED UP FOR CHRISTMAS!

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Printemps Dept. store on Bvd. Haussmann.  France is famous for its illuminations during the festive season.  Despite the huge drop in numbers of visitors, and almost in defiance of the difficulties faced by everyone during this extraordinary year, Paris in particular is dressed with its usual impressive lighting displays to celebrate the holiday season.

TOWNS OF CHARM AND CHARACTER IN BURGUNDY

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Cathedrale St Etienne, Auxerre.  The historic Burgundy district is blessed with some of the most beautiful rural landscapes in France.  There are world-renowned vineyards to visit and charming small cities, but the region also has a wealth of picturesque towns and villages rich in historical and gastronomic heritage that are a joy to discover.  It’s worth striking further afield from its be…

MORE GEMS OF THE BURGUNDY DISTRICT

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Hot air balloons departing from a Burgundian chateau.  Burgundy has such a wealth of attractions, ranging from the famous vineyards and the two major towns of Dijon and Beaune, it’s easy to lose a sense of time in these places and not leave enough to explore the region in greater depth.  There are so many rewarding sights to discover, ranging from hilltop medieval villages and Gallo-Roman s…

BURGUNDY – LAND OF FINE ART AND FINE LIVING

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A typical Cote dOr village in autumn.  Burgundy is full of surprises and contrasts.  Running from Auxerre in the north to Mâcon in the south, this is a vast and varied landscape of wide rivers, dense forests, granite hills, limestone valleys, meandering country lanes and rolling hillsides.  Of course, even without all this beauty, the attractions that draw most visitors are the region’s won…

AN ENTIRE WEEKEND CELBRATING A NATION’S HERITAGE

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Journees Europeennes du Patrimoine 2020 poster.  Every year in September, most European countries devote an entire weekend to the celebration and exploration of their cultural heritage through the European Heritage Days program.  This year in France it was held on 19th – 20th of the month celebrating the theme “Heritage and Education:  Learning for Life”. Public and private owners of his…

CELEBRATING CULTURE AT AN ALL NIGHT FESTIVAL

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Poster for the 2020 European Nuit des Musees. The idea of celebrating culture with an annual all-night event that brings together all ages and tastes, started back in 1982 and has since become a world-wide phenomenon.  In France, the Fête de la Musique is held on 21 June every year, and La Nuit des Musées falls around the middle of May.  Events are free, hugely popular, with a festive atmos…

TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – THE CHÂTEAU DE MALMAISON

Le Chateau de Malmaison.  Famous as the last residence of the Empress Joséphine, it’s also synonymous with her cultivation of rare and exotic plant species hitherto unknown in France, but especially the importation and propagation of roses.  This small château, with its fascinating memorabilia of its most famous residents and its beautiful garden, is barely 15kms west of central Paris, maki…

TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – THE CHÂTEAU DE FONTAINEBLEAU

Aerial view of the Chateau de Fontainebleau.  On a list of ‘must sees’ for most visitors to Paris, along with the obvious sights such as the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre etc., is likely to be the Château de Versailles.  Far less familiar though is the Château de Fontainebleau, arguably the centre of the history of French monarchy.  No site in France can compare as a royal residence.  It predate…

MORE GREAT DESTINATIONS IN PROVENCE!

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‘A Wheat Field with Cypresses’ by Van Gogh.  The very name ‘Provence’ conjures up images of brilliant blue skies, ancient golden stone villages with terracotta tiled roofs, and dazzling colours thrown into sharp relief as depicted in a Van Gogh painting.  It’s a land of languid, hot sunny days, leisurely outdoor dining on wonderful food that tastes of sunshine, with the air fragrant from fi…

FAVOURITE VILLAGES OF THE LUBERON

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Roussillon and the richly coloured ochre cliffs.  There would be few travellers nowadays who, when they hear or read ‘Luberon’, don’t immediately conjure up the delightful memoirs by the late Peter Mayle.  His first book, ‘A Year in Provence’ published in 1989 became the model for a new travel genre and spawned any number of imitators on the theme of an outsider taking up residence in a tow…

NÎMES – THE ROME OF SOUTHERN FRANCE

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The magnificent Les Arenes Roman Amphitheatre dominates Nimes. Located in the Languedoc on the border with Provence, between the Mediterranean and the hills of the Cevennes, Nîmes is one of the loveliest towns in southern France.  It has the finest collection of Roman remains in France, and its pleasant little pedestrianised streets invite the visitor to explore the attractive old town, s…

MORE PYRENEES GEMS

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The Cathar Chateau de Foix.  For a region that is relatively unexplored by many visitors to France, the Pyrenees has so much to offer.  Not just its breathtaking scenery of snow-capped mountains, deep gorges and high altitude agriculture, but also for the number of beautiful little villages that have their own distinct architectural style and character.

EXPLORING THE HEART OF THE PYRÉNÉES

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The beautiful town of Pau Travelling eastwards from the Basque region of the Pyrénées-Atlantiques, there are many more gems to discover.  Pau, the capital of the department is set along the northern edge of the Pyrenees, has fine boulevards, an impressive castle and panoramic views of the mountains.  There are little villages nestled in the high plateaux, stunning scenery, excellent ski s…

FRENCH BASQUE COUNTRY AND THE PYRENEES

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Typical Basque countryside.  Located down in the most south-westerly tip of France, this small area is the last region in the country before crossing into its larger Basque neighbour over the Spanish border.  Most visitors cling to the beautiful coastal area around the trés chic city of Biarritz, but venture further inland from Bayonne and you’ll soon be immersed in the rich Pays Basque w…

SOME OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES OF GASCONY-GERS

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The beautiful bastide village of Larressingle. The traditional name of Gascony nowadays refers to modern-day French departments of the Gers, the Landes and the Hautes Pyrénées.  To the west, it’s bordered by the Atlantic ocean and to the south by the Spanish border.  The name ‘Gascony’ conjures up a rich agricultural area, warmth, sunshine and a traditional rural way of life.  It’s one of…

EXPLORING MONTAUBAN, CAPITAL OF THE TARN-ET-GARONNE

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Montauban, on the river Tarn.  Formerly part of the provinces of Quercy and Languedoc, this Occitanie region in the southwest of France is traversed by the Garonne and Tarn rivers from which it takes its name.  It’s one of the most picturesque agricultural départements of the country.  For the visitor, there are charming medieval villages and towns to explore, plus the great draw-card of …

AIGUES-MORTES – FROM SALTY SWAMP TO MEDIEVAL FORTRESS

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The fortified medieval town of Aigues-Mortes.  Sitting on the flat marshes of the Camargue in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of Provence, this fortified medieval town is regarded as the purest example of 13th century military architecture extant in France.  The rectilinear town is surrounded by high, crenellated ramparts, four corner towers and numerous fortified gates, all completely in…

DISCOVER SOME OF THE BEST FLEA MARKETS IN FRANCE

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You can find anything at a French brocante!  France is a great place to pick up bargain vintage wares.  If a visit to a flea market, rummaging through racks of vintage fashion, or just the thrill of the chase, hoping to find that diamond in the rough, is your idea of a great day out, then France has a wealth of unforgettable experiences waiting for you, right across the country.

TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – POISSY

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The Villa Savoye at Poissy, designed by Le Corbusier. Located 24 kms west of Paris on the River Seine and bordering the royal forest of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, lies the fortified town of Poissy.  An important religious centre in the Middle Ages, it was also a royal city and the birthplace of Kings Louis IX—later sanctified as Saint Louis—and Philippe III, and today known as the location of…

MUST-SEE GARDENS IN & AROUND PARIS

Cherry Blossom time in Parc de Sceaux.  When we think of great things to see and do in Paris, our first thoughts often go to the world famous monuments, incredible museums, fantastic range of food and some of the best shopping in the world.  Often overlooked are the wonderful green spaces, all of which contribute to all these unforgettable experiences.

MORET-SUR-LOING – ANOTHER IN THE OCCASIONAL SERIES, TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO

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  Moret-sur-Loing.  This picturesque medieval town lies along the banks of the tranquil waters of the river Loing, a tributary of the Seine, just a little over 9 kms from the south–east edge of the forest surrounding the Chateau de Fontainebleau.  The town is postcard pretty, offering many opportunities for keen photographers.  It also inspired many Impressionist painters such as …

CHARTRES AND ITS GLORIOUS CATHEDRAL

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The Cathedral’s main facade during the Illuminations. Just 50 kms southwest from Paris, Chartres is within easy reach if you’re visiting the capital.  Notre-Dame de Chartres looms over the surrounding countryside and its tall spires are clearly visible as you approach the town.  Its inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979 describes it as being “the high point of French Gothic …

TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES

Neptune Sculpture in the gardens of Chateau de Versailles.  The history of Versailles is inextricably linked with Louis VIV, although there had been a residence there for centuries before he ascended the throne.  As Dauphin, Louis XIV had loved to hunt in the forests surrounding the small chateau that his father Louis XIII had rebuilt from the original brick and stone hunting lodge.  Thes…

ROCHEFORT-EN-TERRE, A ‘PLUS BEAU VILLAGE DE FRANCE’

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  The main street of Rochefort-en-Terre.  Sitting high on a rocky promontory above the valley of Gueuzon and the River Arz, Rochefort-en-Terre is a village in the countryside of the Morbihan departement of south-west Brittany. Not only classified as one of the ‘Plus Beau Villages de France’ it has also been designated a ‘Petite Cité de Caractére’ and a ‘Ville Fleurie’, making it o…

ST MALO, GATEWAY TO BRITTANY

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St Malo.  The approach to the historic walled city of St Malo, on the coast of Brittany, is surely one of the most dramatic of any city in France.  The charming old town stands on a granite islet joined to the mainland by an ancient causeway.  It’s enclosed by high ramparts which are bordered by beautiful sandy beaches at the foot of its steep walls. 

RENNES – BRITTANY’S MEDIEVAL TREASURE

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Square du Champ Jacquet.  The capital of Brittany, Rennes is a picture-perfect gem that will richly reward a couple of days’ exploration.  At a little over an hour and half by TGV from Paris, it’s the ideal starting point for a tour of Brittany.

BELLE-ÎLE-EN-MER – THE IMPRESSIONISTS’ FAVOURITE ISLAND

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Aerial view of Le Palais & La Citadelle.  Like many people familiar with the rugged coastal landscapes of Monet and other Impressionist painters, we had long been curious about this small island, 15 kms off the southern coast of Brittany.  As its name suggests, Belle Île is certainly one of France’s most beautiful islands. 

BEFORE VERSAILLES THERE WAS VAUX-LE-VICOMTE – TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO

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Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte. As discussed in a recent blog, there are many exciting possibilities for exploring Paris and its regions if you’re armed with a Navigo travel pass.  The 17th century masterpiece Vaux-le-Vicomte is just one of 100 châteaux about an hour or less from Paris, many of which are open to the public.  A Navigo pass makes a visit to this magnificent château easy to achieve.

PLACE DES LICES OUTDOOR MARKET, ST TROPEZ

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Provencal olives at Place des Lices market, St Tropez.  The wonderful market at St Tropez’ Place des Lices is reason enough to visit this famous coastal resort town on the French Riviera.  Despite the celebrity reputation of ‘St Trop’, the market is still a traditional gathering place for visitors and locals alike, selling a huge range of the best Provençal produce, as well as a great ran…

TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – AUVERS-SUR-OISE

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‘Village Street & Steps in Auvers with Figures’ by Van Gogh.  We first visited this lovely little town a couple of years ago.  It was an unplanned day trip from Paris, as we were knee-deep in the renovation of our apartment.  Our good friend and colleague in charge of the works urged us to escape the dust and mess for a while—a not-so-subtle way of getting us out from under his team’s…

TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO –DISCOVERING PARIS AND BEYOND

Navigo Decouverte Transport Pass. We have often been asked about the best way to get out and about to explore Paris and all the many attractions in the vicinity suitable for a day’s excursion. Paris has a terrific transport pass, a smart card called the Navigo Découverte—simply referred to as a “Navigo”—similar to London’s Oyster card, Sydney’s Opal or Hong Kong’s Octopus. However, th…

Le Château de Champs-sur-Marne – a petit Versailles

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  Le Chateau de Champs-sur-Marne.  This magnificent château has often been overlooked in favour of more famous palaces such as Versailles, Fontainebleau or Chantilly. Located in the verdant département of Seine-et-Marne some 18 kms east of Paris, it’s a perfect candidate for a day trip out of the city.

Discover Lyon – The second biggest city in France

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  Lyon, the city on two rivers.  Lyon is regarded as the gastronomic capital of France.  As well as food, with over 2,000 years of history embedded into its streets and its very soul, Lyon has a fascinating history to discover.  

A Touch of Paris Arrives in Sydney

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‘A Mon Seul Desir’ On Sunday evening we attended the members’ free viewing of the ‘Lady and the Unicorn’ series of tapestries on loan from the Musée de Cluny in Paris to the Art Gallery of NSW.  And what a visual treat it is!

The Most Beautiful Villages of France

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We’ve spent many years pottering about the French countryside, often revisiting favourite places—towns, villages and historic sites. A great way to plan a driving holiday is to pick a region and then explore its attractions.  How though to identify the most interesting and rewarding, and the most beautiful, places? One way we do that is to find out if our chosen region has any villages that are members of L’Association des Plus Beaux Villages de France.

Provins, a town famous for its medieval fairs

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Medieval Provins.  A little over an hour by train to the east of Paris, the medieval town of Provins, is famous for its intact fortifications, impressive monuments and architectural character, combined with a network of small canals.  It became a major venue for the great trading fairs that linked northern Europe with the Mediterranean basin, and was fortified in the Middle Ages by the po…