The Alsace Route du Vin (Wine Route) is one of the best, most scenic road trips in France.  It’s the perfect itinerary for those who love sightseeing through outstanding landscapes, a string of picturesque villages, ruined castles from the Middle Ages, and enjoying the region’s fine wines along the way.  Taken at a leisurely pace, you can easily spend as long as five days, but it can be done in less, if time is short, since the length is barely 170kms, starting from Colmar and finishing in Strasbourg.  It’s such a beautiful part of France, you’ll be barely able to tear yourself away when you reach the end of the Route.

We chose to travel up the Route du Vin starting from Colmar, although there’s no reason not to do it the other way around.  The idea is to enjoy and relax while exploring the glorious scenery, numerous pretty villages along the route, the many storks’ nests perched on rooftops, the occasional castle—intact or a picturesque ruin—and sample some of the region’s wonderful wines en route.

Perhaps the best known of the Alsatian wines is Riesling, which in this region is dry rather than sweet, although as you explore the region you will also encounter Gewürztraminer and Muscat, as well as the excellent Pinot Gris, and to a lesser extent, the Pinot Blanc.  The region is also known for its crémant d’Alsace, or sparkling wine.  Travelling along the Route is the perfect excuse to seek them out, and there are many vineyards that welcome visitors and offer tastings.

A visit to the local Tourist Bureaux in the villages will have a list of those vineyards who offer tastings.  Signage in this entire region is excellent.

If you are in France during the Christmas season, the Route du Vin villages, and especially Colmar, has some of the most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe.

This time we were there in warmer months, and we can also highly recommend autumn when the vines have turned spectacular shades of red and gold.

Just before heading north from Colmar, it’s highly recommended to pop south to Eguisheim, just a little under 7 kms away from the southern exit from Colmar.  It was built around its castle, and the medieval village unfolds in concentric circles.  Take a little time to enjoy a stroll through the cobblestone streets of this charming, typical little Alsatian village, with its brightly coloured historic houses with pointed roofs and timber-framed facades, fountains, profusion of flowers in summer and outstanding Christmas market.  It was ranked France’s Favourite Village in a survey of 2013, and is listed as one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France.  Well worth a quick detour.

10 Kms N.W. of Colmar lies the medieval town of Kaysersberg.  It was mentioned in 1227 when Emperor Federick II of the Holy Roman Empire acquired a château  there.  Initially named “Kaisersberg”, the town quickly rose in prominence and the château became a strategic fortress during the wars against the Duchy of Lorraine.  By 1293, the town was declared a Free Imperial City, just as Colmar was, and in 1354, Kaysersberg joined the Décapole alliance, a pact between ten Alsatian towns that advocated maintaining their own rights as Imperial cities, while providing assistance and protection to each other.

Like most of the towns and villages in this area, Kaysersberg passed back and forth between France and Germany and finally returned to France at the end of WWI.  There are many historic architectural monuments to see, notably Église Sainte-Croix, the oldest part of it dating from the 13th century and the 16^th century renaissance style Hotel de Ville.  The partially ruined 13^th century Château de Kaysersberg occupies a prominent location.  It was abandoned in the 16^th century, but after the Revolution it was declared a monument Historique by the French Ministry of Culture in 1841.

Kaysersberg’s most famous son was Albert Schweitzer, who was born there in 1875.  His former home is now the Centre for the Interpretation of Peace, and as well as permanent and temporary exhibitions, it offers an interactive tour based on the humanist principles of freedom, tolerance and mutual respect he held so dear.

Next on our trip north is Riquewihr, a little over 11 kms from Kaysersberg, situated between the peaks of the Vosges mountains and the Plain of Alsace.  Located in the middle of the Alsace vineyards, It is one of the standout villages of the entire Route du Vin.  The charms of this magical village are highlighted by the many floral decorations that adorn the half-timbered houses.  This ancient, fortified town is very well preserved, and it was one of the few towns in the area that didn’t suffer much damage during the various wars that came one after another.  Originally the property of the Dukes of Württemberg, the town was converted to Protestantism in the 16^th century.  Historically, Riquewihr served as a “Winzerdorf” or wine village, as a trading hub for Alsatian and German wines.

The town is surrounded by its medieval fortifications and overlooked by a castle from the same period that nowadays is a museum.  Houses, built cheek by jowl, date back to the 15^th and 18^th centuries.  These feature façades sculpted with half-timbering, oriel windows, and many with inner courtyards embellished by old wells and fountains.

The town has a number of really interesting museums.  Check out the Thieves’ Tower—the town’s former prison; the Winemaker’s House, which dates from the 16^th century, and the Dolder Tower, a 13^th century former defensive gateway.  There’s also a museum about Alsace during WW2, and a torture chamber (La salle de torture).  It’s easy to understand why Riquewihr was designated a member of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France when the association was founded in 1982.  Pop into the town’s Tourist Office for further information and to book a historic walking tour.

Just a 7 min. drive from Riquewihr, heading towards your next major town of Ribeauvillé, you will come to Hunawihr, another typical Alsatian village surrounded by vineyards, classified as one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France.  Founded in the 7^th century, the village is overlooked by the 15^th century Church of St Jacques le Majeur, surrounded by a fortified cemetery.  This church also served as a fortified tower where the inhabitants took refuge in times of attack.

3 kms further along you will arrive at Ribeauvillé, a charming town which has really made the most of its heritage.  In the Middle Ages, the town was the seat of the Seigneurs de Ribeauvillé, who built 3 fortified châteaux, which majestically dominate the town and surrounding hills.  These are all accessible via a footpath up the mountainside.  The oldest and most important of the 3 is the Château Saint Ulrich.  Then there’s the Château du Girsberg and the Château du Haut-Ribeaupierre which as its name suggests, is the highest of the 3.

From its medieval fortifications, Ribeauvillé has preserved a part of its town walls and some of its defensive towers, such as the 13^th century Tour des Bouchers (Butchers’ tower)—the Butchers’ corporate body was in charge of the defence of the town from this tower in the event of attack. The main street and its picturesque neighbourhood are edged with buildings dating back to the 15^th and 18^th centuries, and squares adorned with Renaissance-style fountains.

There are many lovely buildings worth a visit, including the 18^th century Hotel de Ville, the old Corn Exchange and the Maison des Ménétriers (House of the Fiddlers).  Among the many festivals held in the town throughout the year, there is the “Pfifferdaj” (Fiddlers’ Festival), that perpetuates the memory of the meeting of the fiddlers’ brotherhood who have gathered in the town since 1481 in order to elect their kings.  This is the oldest festival held in Alsace, and takes place on the first Sunday in September.

A few kms after Ribeauvillé you will arrive in Bergheim, situated amidst the lovely, undulating landscape of Alsatian vineyards.  This is one of the rare villages of Alsace to have almost completely preserved its medieval town walls, built in 1311.  The origins of Bergheim remain uncertain, but the discovery of a Roman mosaic attests to presence of villas of that era.  Entering through the Porte Haute gate, a stroll around the medieval village is worthwhile, seeing the old half-timbered houses of the wine-growers, its fortifications, the fountain, which bears the town’s coat of arms, the ancient washhouse, the parish church and old synagogue.

A detour well worth taking before heading to Bergheim is to the fortified château of Haut Koenigsbourg, a 20 min. drive 14 km north of Ribeauvillé.  At an altitude of 757m, there are stunning views of the entire region.  It’s the only medieval château in Alsace that has been fully restored, and just by walking through the gates is to plunge into the world of the Middle Ages.  It has survived through 9 centuries of tumultuous history, which you will certainly understand when you see the drawbridges, walls, towers and keeps.  There’s also a blacksmith’s shop and mill, and a spiral staircase leading directly to the furnished residence of the lord of the château.  The château’s military purpose is evident in the arms room, featuring multiple pikes, halberds and crossbows, as well as the cannons of the Grand Bastion.  The richly decorated Kaiser’s Hall will impress you with its monumental frescoes.  This jewel of medieval architecture should not be missed.

Continuing on your way north takes you through numerous picturesque little villages, all surrounded by vineyards.  After nearly 40 kms along this delightful route, you will come to Obernai.  As a medieval free town and then an imperial town of the Décapole alliance, as well as the legendary birthplace of St Odile, patron saint of Alsace, Obernai epitomises the rich heritage of the region, and you could say it is a condensed version of Alsace, or as it is sometimes described, “Alsace in a nutshell”.  The vineyards and wine route, the Vosges and the large rural plain start right at the town gates.  Obernai is located just 25 kms from Strasbourg, at the foot of Mont Sainte-Odile, right where the little valley of the Ehn river opens out.  It is so attractive that it is the most visited town of the Bas-Rhin after Strasbourg.  It has been designated one of the 100 Plus Beaux Détours de France.

There’s a lot to see in Obernai.  Described as a fortified citadel, it is surrounded by its ancient ramparts, which form the inner wall of the old town.  This wall is over 1,400 m long, which has around 20 towers and 4 gates.  The broad, raised area between the walls is today a favourite place for a pleasant stroll.  On entering the town, you will discover its 60m high bell tower, Romanesque houses, the Halle aux Blés (Wheat Hall), the Sainte-Odile fountain on the famous Place du Marché—these are just some of the jewels inside the town, where time seems to have stood still.

There’s a 7 km walking circuit of the vineyards, through the picture-postcard landscape, through the village of Barr, which is the wine-growing capital of Bas-Rhin.  It’s estimated that the walk can be done in about 3.5 hrs, depending on your walking pace and stops for refreshments.  It’s part of the broader Alsace Wine Route, and passes through charming villages such as Bernardville and Itterwiller.  Enquire at the Obernai or Barr Tourist Office for details.

It’s so easy to keep driving further along this Route, but if time isn’t on your side, from Obernai you can turn east and head to Strasbourg, just a little over 28 kms away.  However, if you’ve time to fit in just one more town before that, keep going north for another 7 kms to Rosheim.  This is a beautiful little town, with an especially rich history, which is evident from its fine architectural heritage.  The town has one of the oldest civilian buildings in Alsace, the Romanesque House, also called the Pagan House, built in 1154.  The Church of St Pierre et St Paul is also one of the region’s jewels of Romanesque architecture.  The Hotel de Ville, the Six Bucket Well, and the many old doors and other architectural features of the buildings are further testament to the town’s rich past.  Rosheim is also known for its delicious local culinary treats.  Just a few kms up the road is the turn off for Strasbourg.

As you can see, the Alsace has an enormous number of fascinating sights, picturesque historic villages, glorious scenery, delicious regional cuisine and fine Alsatian wines.  It’s easy to spend many days enjoying the Route du Vin, and you need some weeks to explore the whole region.  This is just a very small sample to tempt you to make your own discoveries, and I’m sure you will agree that one visit isn’t nearly enough!