Author: Cheryl Brooks

THE ELEGANCE AND LUXURY OF AVENUE MONTAIGNE, PARIS

Posted in Paris City - Attractions, Paris - Districts. 6 Comments on THE ELEGANCE AND LUXURY OF AVENUE MONTAIGNE, PARIS

For anyone with an interest in high fashion, it’s generally acknowledged that Paris is a world leader, if not the leader, in haute couture. For decades, the top street for Parisian couture houses was the Faubourg St Honore. It was his desire to assert his own vision and originality that Christian Dior opened his couture house in 1947 on Avenue Montaigne, rather than the Faubourg St Honore. Since then, this short road has gradually seen many of the top fashion houses establish themselves here, and nothing says “fashionista” more than an address on Avenue Montaigne.

Avenue Montaigne is regarded as one of the most elegant streets in Paris.

The beautiful Avenue Montaigne is located in the 8^th arrondissement, between the Rond Point des Champs Élysées and Place de l’Alma near the Seine. It’s a relatively short street at less than a kilometre long. At the river Seine end, the avenue leads to a breathtaking view of perhaps the most famous structure in Paris, the Eiffel Tower.

The so-called Allee des Veuves (Widows’ Alley) in the 18th century.

In writings from the 17^th century, the Avenue Montaigne is referred to as a simple path along which vegetables were grown. In 1770, the avenue was planted with a double row of elms by order of the Marquis de Marigny and was nicknamed Allée des Veuves, because it had become a gathering place for women in mourning. Over time, it had gained the reputation as the place to meet some these often lonely women who were in search of a discreet “gallant” adventure. It was not the elegant, refined place we know today.

The Allée des Veuves gained a certain notoriety when, in September 1792, at the foot of one of the elm trees in front of the house of a certain Dame Brûlée, some of the French crown jewels that had been stolen earlier that month, had been buried. The royal jewels had been stored at the Garde-Meuble (now the Hotel de la Marine) that faces onto Place de la Concorde. The thieves had split up the jewels into numerous packages and secreted them in a number of locations throughout the city. The small haul recovered from Allée des Veuves had been buried there by one of the thieves, who divulged the hiding place in order to avoid the guillotine.

Michel de Montaigne and his works, for whom the street was renamed in 1850.

In 1850 the street was re-named after French Renaissance statesman and philosopher, Michel de Montaigne. During the Universal Exhibition of 1855, the Palais des Beaux-Arts was built there by the architect Hector-Martin Lefuel, and elegant houses began to be built along the avenue, becoming one of the most fashionable places in the Champs-Elysées district.

Paris has long been famous for dance, and during the 19^th century like those we’ve seen in numerous Impressionist paintings of the era, around Montmartre. Avenue Montaigne also earned renown for its sparkling and colourful Bal Mabille (Mabille Gardens) on Saturday nights. This open-air dance venue opened in 1831, when the area had large parts that were still vegetable gardens. It was struck by shells during the siege of Paris in 1870-71 during the Franco-Prussian War, and ultimately had to close in 1875 and was demolished in 1882. Under the Third Republic, there was a shooting range, as well as an orchestra there led by a well-known conductor and composer of the time, Olivier Métra.

The Bal Mabille in 1858 after gaslighting had been installed.

The Bal Mabille extended from nos. 49 to 53 in the modern street numbering. It was opened by Monsieur Mabille, one of the city’s innumerable dance instructors, and was originally for his pupils. It was later opened to the public. His son refurbished it as a sort of enchanted garden, with sand paths, lawns, trees and shrubs, galleries and a grotto. It was equipped with 3,000 gas lamps, very modern for the time, and was thus able to stay open after dark. Coloured glass globes illuminated the areas under trees, and strings of lights and chandeliers were suspended between them. There was an area with a roof for weather protection, and the grounds contained a Chinese pavilion, artificial palm trees and a merry-go-round. The entrance fee was quite high, so that only the relatively well-to-do were able to frequent the establishment.

The Bal Mabille became somewhat notorious for fliratious liaisons.

It soon became the most fashionable dancing location of the period, although it had a reputation for attracting more foreigners in search of “pretty faces” than Parisians. The garden also had a reputation as being a place where gentlemen could meet prostitutes.

The origins of the can-can are said to have been at the Bal Mabille.

The polka was introduced there by Elise Rosita Sergent, known as la Reine Pomare, and another dancer known as Céleste Mogador. As well, the can-can is said to have been invented there–not up at Montmartre as we tend to think–and crowds flocked to watch the famous Céleste Mogador dance it.

As well as famous fashion houses, the Avenue Montaigne has a couple of other landmarks. One of these is the Théâtre des Champs Élysées at no. 15. The theatre is named not after the famed Avenue, but rather after the neighbourhood in which it’s situated. Commissioned by a famous impresario of the day, Gabriel Astruc, the theatre was designed by French architect Auguste Perret to provide a venue suitable for contemporary music, dance and opera, in contrast to the traditional institutions like the Paris Opera. Inaugurated on 02 April 1913, it was the first example of Art Deco architecture in the city, and the first Parisian theatre to be entirely built in reinforced concrete instead of steel. It has 3 auditoriums, the largest having 1,905 seats.

Jean Cocteau’s advertising poster for the original production of Stravinsky’s ‘The Rite of Spring.’

The opening show was the world première of Igor Stravinsky’s ‘The Rite of Spring’, performed by Sergei Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes company, with choreography by Vaslav Nijinsky. The opening night at the Theatre on 29 May 1913 caused a sensation, with many reports describing the reaction as a riot or near-riot, due to the avant-garde nature of the music and choreography. The artist Jean Cocteau wrote about the reaction of the first night’s audience saying “…It immediately rebelled. It laughed, scoffed, whistled, cat-called, and perhaps might have got tired in the long run if the mob of aesthetes and a few musicians in their excessive zeal had not insulted and even jostled the people in the boxes. The uproar degenerated into a free-for-all.”

Poster advertising Josephine Baker’s show at the Theatre de Champs Elysees.

Since that memorable start, the theatre has become known as a venue of innovative programming for opera, recitals, orchestral concerts, and dance featuring a wide variety of artists ranging from the magnificent cabaret dancer Josephine Baker, Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald, Oscar Peterson, Igor Stravinsky, Richard Strauss, Andreas Schiff, the Staatskapelle Dresden and the Vienna Philharmonic among so many other internationally famous performers. The Théâtre des Champs Élysées was one of the first modern edifices to become a listed building, when in 1970 it was registered as a Monument Historique.

Hotel Plaza Athenee, Avenue Montaigne, Paris. Photo, Shutterstock

One of the most famous landmarks on Avenue Montaigne is the Hôtel Plaza Athénée at no. 25. With incredible views of the Eiffel Tower, the hotel has long been regarded by many as the foremost luxury hotel in the area since its opening in 1913—the same year as the Théâtre des Champs Élysées—and has been the hotel of choice for guests such as Grace Kelly, Jackie Kennedy, Rudolph Valentino, and Sophia Loren.

The hotel is far too discreet to discuss any more recent famous guests! Its history is interwoven with that of its neighbour, the Théâtre des Champs Élysées, which opened within weeks of the hotel, and became a haunt for both composers and theatregoers. The hotel is now part of the Dorchester Collection that includes Le Meurice, also in Paris, London’s Dorchester Hotel and numerous prestige hotels in major European and American cities, as well as Dubai.

Madeleine Vionnet’s famous bias-cut dresses.

By the early 1920s, a few major fashion designers had set up shop along the avenue, such as the Callot sisters and especially their former employee, Madeleine Vionnet, who set up her fashion house in a private mansion at no. 50. She pioneered the revolutionary ‘bias-cut’ dress, draped expertly over the body, which changed the shape of women’s fashion. She became known as the “Queen of the bias cut” and “the architect among dressmakers.”

Christian Dior in front of 30 Avenue Montaigne in 1947.

The name that springs to mind though, when thinking of couture, is of course Christian Dior. He opened his atelier at no. 30 Avenue Montaigne on 16 December 1946, although today the current Dior corporation celebrates 1947 as the opening year. Dior first set eyes on the hôtel particulier in 1946, declaring later that “it had to be 30 Avenue Montaigne. I was going to settle here and nowhere else!” The four-storey residence had been built in 1865 for the illegitimate son of Napoleon 1. The couturier said he was drawn to the understated elegance of the neoclassical façade, as well as its relatively modest scale and proximity to the elegant, cosmopolitan clientele staying at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée. In homage, Dior’s first collection included creations called ‘Plaza’ and ‘Athénée’.

Three outfits from Dior’s New Look collection, 1947.

Dior showed his first collection of 90 garments on 12 February 1947. It became known as the “New Look”, when Carmel Snow, editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar magazine, who admired the originality of the collection, and congratulated the designer, praising him by saying “It’s quite a revolution, dear Christian! Your dresses have such a new look!” When the ‘New Look’ became the talk of fashion, it transformed the fortunes of both Dior and France. It came at an ideal time. Resurrecting themselves through fashion, among other industries after WW2, France and Dior were beginning to create a new identity.

Models were assaulted wearing Dior’s New Look in 1947.

For many, the collection’s lavish sense of exaggerated femininity marked a welcome departure from wartime austerity. However, from others it prompted harsh backlash, as Dior’s styles, which used metres and metres of fabric for a single dress, was offensively wasteful.

The Galerie Dior museum entrance is on rue Francois 1er.

The success of the House of Dior necessitated an extension being added to 30 Avenue Montaigne. A year later, the neighbouring 11b, 13 and 15 rue Francois 1er were also rented to accommodate the 25,000 people travelling to see the Dior collections each season. Today, one of the Must Sees in Paris is the beautiful Galerie Dior museum, accessed from the rue Francois 1er side. You can read more about this gorgeous venue in a blog I wrote when it first opened post-COVID: https://parisplusplus.com/paris/la-galerie-dior-a-homage-to-the-artistry-of-the-master-of-dreams/

Today, Avenue Montaigne has a plethora of top designer boutiques, including Chanel at no. 51—although their flagship store is in rue Cambon—Louis Vuitton at no. 19, Balenciaga at No. 57, Celine at No. 55, Yves Saint Laurent at No. 53.

Interior of the Gucci boutique on Avenue Montaigne

Gucci at No. 60 has an extravagant interior, Armani is at nos. 18 and 2, Valentino at no. 17. Versace recently opened a large new store extending over two levels, at no. 45.

Dolce & Gabbana boutique on Avenue Montaigne

Other illustrious fashion houses include Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy, Chloe, Ralph Lauren, Loewe, Jimmy Choo, Prada, Max Mara, Ferragamo, and Fendi. This list is by no means exhaustive, but just an indication of the prestige fashion labels in residence.

Restaurant L’Avenue, on the cnr. of Ave. Montaigne and rue Francois 1er.

It’s not all high fashion though. Aside from the Plaza Athénée, there’s a great restaurant on the corner of 41 Avenue Montaigne and rue Francois 1er named L’Avenue, which describes itself as an upscale bistro—somewhat of an understatement, given the neighbourhood! There’s another hotel as well, the beautiful Hotel Montaigne at no. 6, self-described as being “in the heart of Culture and Haute Couture”.

Harry Winston Jewellery, 29 Ave. Montaigne

The street has had its share of notoriety in recent years. On 04 December 2008, the Harry Winston jewellery store at No. 29 was robbed of more than €80 million worth of diamond rings, necklaces and luxury watches by a gang of four armed men just before closing. It had also been robbed in October 2007, when a similar heist netted the robbers around €20 million.

The Salvatore Ferragamo store occupies two large floors.

Famous residents of Avenue Montaigne have included the actress Marlene Dietrich, who maintained an apartment at No. 12 for many years, and died there in 1992. During her last years, Soraya Esfandiary-Bakhtiary (formerly married to the Shah of Iran) lived at No. 46. For many years, the Canadian Embassy was located at No. 35.

La Flamme de la Liberte at Place Diana, Pont d’Alma, opposite Ave. Montaigne

At the far end of the street, and just opposite, is the Pont d’Alma, chiefly known these days as the location where Princess Diana and her boyfriend Dodi Al Fayed died in a car crash in the tunnel just to the north of the bridge, back in August 1997. There is a memorial at the Place Diana, called the Flamme de la Liberte (Flame of Liberty), which is a replica of the torch of the Statue of Liberty in New York harbour. Given to France by the USA to celebrate Franco-American friendship, it became a spontaneous shrine to Diana. There are always bouquets of flowers laid at the base of the Flamme.

One of the attractive cafes at the top of Ave. Montaigne at metro Alma-Marceau.

There are a couple of good brasseries at the intersection of Avenue Montaigne, Avenue George V and Avenue President Wilson, that we’ve eaten in whenever we’ve gone to a performance at the nearby Theatre des Champs Élysées. Metro Alma-Marceau (Line 9) is also at this intersection.

The beautiful Artcurial building, at the end of Ave. Montaigne, at the Rond Point.

At the other end of Avenue Montaigne, one of the loveliest buildings in Paris is Artcurial, a contemporary art auction house in a magnificent historic mansion built in 1844 that overlooks the Rond Point. It’s set in lovely gardens and surrounded by a beautiful, cast-iron fence with heavily ornamental, gilded gates. Just around the corner is the Champs Élysées.

Christmas decor, Christian Dior, Avenue Montaigne. Photo, Shutterstock

There is a lot to see in this very upmarket neighbourhood, and perhaps after checking out Avenue Montaigne, you could take a stroll along Avenues George V and Marceau to round out your day surrounded by luxury and high fashion!

View of the Eiffel Tower fom a suite in the Plaza Athenee Hotel.

THE ALBERT KAHN GARDENS, A HIDDEN PARADISE IN PARIS

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The Albert Kahn Japanese garden in autumn.

We had been aware of this beautiful place in Paris for quite a few years, but due to so many other distractions in the city, had never managed to get there. Whenever we came across a reference to it, or someone mentioned it, typical descriptions were that it was a quiet haven, an exquisite retreat covering 4 hectares, and a little-known, almost-hidden paradise. One glorious, bright sunny day on a recent visit, we were determined to finally get there, after reading an article describing the property’s recent re-opening, following a renovation and restoration project that took 6 years to achieve. And how glad we were that we did!

Albert Kahn, at his office in Paris in 1914.

First of all, we wanted to know about Albert Kahn: who was he, and what led him to create this beautiful place? He was born Abraham Kahn in Marmoutier, in the Alsace region, in March 1860, the eldest of six children of Louis Kahn, a cattle dealer, and his wife, Babette Kahn. Babette died when Albert was 10 years old, and after the German annexation of Alsace-Lorraine following the 1870 Franco-Prussian War, the Kahn family moved to Saint-Mihiel in north-eastern France in 1872, where he continued his studies until 1876. In 1879, Kahn became a bank clerk in Paris, but studied for a degree in the evenings. He mixed in intellectual circles, making friends with the painter Mathurin Meheut and sculptor Auguste Rodin.

Kahn became a principal associate of the Goudchaux Bank, one of the most important financial houses in Europe at the time. He built up a fortune by speculating first on gold and diamond mines in South Africa, and collaborated with a banking syndicate on industrial projects and international loans. He started his own bank in 1898, at the age of only 38 yrs. While maintaining a busy working life, he resumed his studies at the highly regarded École Normale Supérieure. He became life-long friends with his tutor, to whom he eventually admitted that success in business “was not his dream.”

Albert Kahn’s house in Boulogne-sur-Seine.

Albert Kahn settled in Boulogne-sur-Seine, on the banks of the river, in 1893. Initially a tenant in the mansion, he fell in love with the place and bought it two years later.

The drawing room of the Autour du Monde Society in Albert Kahn’s house.

Once his fortune was made, he started to create philanthropic projects. He was interested in the political and social questions of the time, and set up places where people could debate such issues, get to know one another better, and where Kahn advocated integration and dialogue between populations. His aim was to break down barriers between biological, sociological, political, economic, and geographic differences. He also promoted higher education through a travel scholarship, the Autour du Monde Scholarship, through the Université de Paris, which entailed the recipient to travel for 15 months in a foreign country, and “truly come into contact with life.” In 1905, Kahn opened up these grants, or scholarships, to include young female specialists.

Photo of Chinese Empress Dowager Cixi taken during Albert Kahn’s journey to China.

In 1909, he travelled with his chauffeur/photographer to Japan, China and the United States on business and returned with many photographs of their journey. This prompted him to begin a project collecting a photographic record, a sort of inventory project, of the entire Earth.

An early colour photo commissioned by Albert Kahn and exhibitied in Paris in 1931.

He then sent photographers to every continent to record images of the planet using early colour photography: autochrome plates and early cinematography. Their orders were simple: “Keep your eyes open.” Between 1909 and 1931, they collected over 72,000 colour photographs and 183,000 metres of film, known as The Archives de la Planete.

A tribesman in Mongola. One of the thousands of photos commissioned by Albert Kahn.

At his Boulogne-Billancourt property, Kahn maintained facilities for images to be developed, projected and screened. His screenings attracted notable people such as Auguste Rodin, Colette, Auguste Renoir, Henri Bergson and the Nobel prize winner, Rabindranath Tagore. Many of these images form the core of the collection at the museum in the gardens. As well, 69,000 photographs have been digitised and are available online.

A Jain Temple official in Ahmadabad, India, from Albert Kahn’s vast
photographic collection

In 1914, he initiated the creation of the Comité de Secours National, which aided civilian victims of war, and two years later, he founded the Comité National d’Études Sociales et Politiques (CNESP), where intellectuals got together in order to inform authorities on contemporary issues through their findings and analyses. At the end of WWI he published a manifesto in favour of preventing conflicts, The Droits et Devors des Gouvernements, and created the first centre of social documentation at the École Normale Supérieure in 1920.

Unfortunately, Albert Kahn lost is fortune in the Wall Street Crash and during the Great Depression, and he had to stop funding the bursaries and the Archives of the World project. His bank folded, and he was personally bankrupt. However, by 1936, his property and possessions were safely in the hands of the Departément de la Seine, and he was allowed to remain living in his former home until his death. His gardens were opened to the public, and his photographic collection was put on display. Tragically, when he died in November 1940 shortly after the German Occupation of Paris, because he was Jewish, his body was thrown into a mass grave. Luckily for humanity, his vision has lived on. In 1968, the newly created Departément des Hautes-de-Seine became owner of the Kahn property, gardens, and collection. Today, the museum and gardens attract over 120,000 visitors a year.

During his lifetime, Albert Kahn was an avid gardener, who wanted to create a very special garden based on his humanist philosophy and vision of the world. To this end, he gradually acquired properties adjoining his home, and by1910, he ended up with twenty plots of land covering a total area of 4 hectares. From then until 1920, Kahn decided to create a garden of “scenes.” A great pacifist at heart, he imagined the world in one garden, where different cultures would mingle, in line with his philosophy for the foundation of the Comité National d’Études Sociales et Politiques. He was convinced that knowledge of others would contribute to peace and harmony, and raise awareness of other ways of life. In this way, his gardens enabled the elite of the time to discover the value and richness of cultural diversity, as expressed in the different themes and planting of the garden scenes.

The Vosges forest – intended as a tribute to Albert Kahn’s childhood, it was designed as a reproduction of the Vosges forest where he grew up. There are shady conifers and deciduous trees from the mountains, and blocks of granite strewn along the dirt paths, exactly like a genuine forest.

There are many pathways that lead through the various garden themes.

The golden forest and the meadow – as you leave this wood, an expanse of grass stretches before you, bordered by another forest whose colours change with the seasons: the bright yellow of the spruce trees in spring is replaced in autumn by the golden leaves of birch. The meadow itself brims with the colourful hues of the wild annuals and perennials that bloom there.

The blue forest and the marsh – You move from the warm yellow to the blue of the American Atlas Cedars and Colorado Spruces in the blue forest. Take time to admire the plant species beneath these tall trees, which vary according to the time of year.

The rose garden and orangery. Photo, Shutterstock

The French garden, its orchard and rose garden – Continue on to the orchard and rose-garden, with its orderly layout providing a contrast with the previous areas.

Inside the enormous greenhouse, with its winter garden.

The fruit trees are arranged symmetrically around squares, and the roses climb over arches to form an arbour. Framed by flowerbeds, the garden follows the geometric layout of the classical gardens created in the 17^th century. There is a glass and metal great greenhouse standing beside it, which houses the winter garden.

The English garden – in contrast to the French garden, this garden is characterised by lush vegetation grown to imitate nature. The cottage, one of the original buildings, still stands. Its fountain bears a carved image from a La Fontaine fable, and a narrow stream meanders across its lawn to a small pool.

One of the two houses Kahn imported from Japan to install in his garden.

The Japanese village and contemporary garden – The walk ends with a trip to the Land of the Rising Sun, the highlight of the tour. The first part of this classically inspired garden represents a traditional village, with a traditional teahouse and 2 traditional dwellings transported from Japan. The second represents contemporary Japan, created in the 1990s by landscape architect Fumiaki Takano.

The Japanese garden with traditional Japanese bridge over a stream

The red bridge is an obvious eye-catcher, stretching over the pond where colourful carp zigzag. The path of the water through the garden symbolises the life and work of Albert Kahn and his incredible openness to the rest of the world.

The new Albert Kahn museum, designed by Kenzo Kuma

This is one of the loveliest garden environments in Paris. Take a leisurely stroll through the garden, browse through the archives, and imagine what life at the start of the 20^th century was like in Asia, Europe, America and Africa, all housed in the beautifully designed new museum, the work of Japanese architect Kengo Kuma.

The glass and cast-iron greenhouse in the French garden.

It’s easy to get to the Albert Kahn Museum and Garden. Take the metro to Pont de Saint-Cloud , which is the last stop on Line 10, and it’s just a couple of minutes from the metro. The street address is: 2, rue du Port, Boulogne-Billancourt. Note: the museum is closed on Mondays, and of course, expect that the garden’s landscape will obviously be different according to the time of year, so bear this in mind when planning a visit, according to what you want to see. Entry fee is about 8 Euros.

Part of the Albert Kahn gardens. Photo, Shutterstock

THE SPARKLING SEASIDE TOWN OF LA ROCHELLE

Posted in Bordeaux Region. 4 Comments on THE SPARKLING SEASIDE TOWN OF LA ROCHELLE

The St Nicolas Tower and the Tour de la Chaine at the mouth of the old port of La Rochelle

Less than 2 hours by car up the coast from Bordeaux will take you to the beautiful port city of La Rochelle. One of the country’s most important seaports from the 14^th to 17^th centuries, the city’s luminous limestone façades glow in the bright coastal sunlight. Although its old commercial harbour, the Vieux Port, isn’t deep enough for the modern ships of today, it’s now one of the largest yachting harbours along the French Atlantic coast. With its straight streets, arcaded walkways, half-timbered houses adorned with fearsome gargoyles and slate tile roofs, shady promenades on the site of the city’s ancient fortifications, and some fabulous lighthouses, it’s one of our favourite places in France, and a very rewarding destination for visitors to discover.

We had originally planned to drive directly up to La Rochelle from Bordeaux, with only a couple of brief stops along the way. However, there were so many fascinating and picturesque detours, we ended up taking a couple of days to stop and enjoy some delightfully unexpected sights before arriving at La Rochelle.

Archaeological site of a Gallo-Roman villa at La Rochelle.

Remains of Roman villas and salt evaporation ponds have been found, although archaeological finds trace the history of the port of La Rochelle, on the Bay of Biscay, back before the Gallo-Roman period to the Gallic tribe of the Santones. The Romans developed salt production along the coast and also wine production, shipping these various products from La Rochelle throughout the Empire. Although the town was founded during the 10^th century, it became an important trading port in the 12^th century, when the Dukes of Aquitaine granted it a charter as a free port after they had destroyed the neighbouring town of Châtelaillon.

Chateau Vauclair was built by the English in 1185.

The opening of the English market following the second marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152 to the Plantagenet, Henry II, plus the presence of the Knights Templar and the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, quickly make this small town the largest port on the Atlantic coast. Henry II had the Château Vauclair built in 1185, but it was demolished around 1375 on the orders of Charles V after the Siege of La Rochelle, and its stones were used to build a new fortification wall. Remains of Château Vauclair are still visible in the Place de Verdun.

The naval Battle of La Rochelle in 1372 during the Hundred Years’ War.

During the Hundred Years’ War, La Rochelle changed hands a number of times, but was finally captured by the French in 1372. Until the 15^th century, La Rochelle was the largest French harbour on the Atlantic coast, dealing mainly in wine, salt and cheese.

Depiction of the St Bartholomews Day Massacre at La Rochelle in 1572.

During the Renaissance, La Rochelle adopted Protestant ideas. Calvinism started to spread in the region, resulting in violent suppression on the orders of Henri II, including some so-called heretics being burned at the stake in La Rochelle in 1552. Despite these measures, conversions to Calvinism continued, not only because of religious convictions, but also the desire for political independence, and popular opposition to royal expenses and the many calls for heavy contributions towards the building projects to fortify the coast against England.

The Protestant Museum, which tells the story of the Huguenots in La Rochelle.

La Rochelle became a centre for the Huguenots, and using Geneva as the model, the city declared itself an independent Reformed Republic. In effect, La Rochelle became an entity described as “a state within a state.” Needless to say, this led to numerous conflicts with the Catholic central government. After the Massacre of St Bartholomew’s Day in 1572, during which an enormous number French Protestants were killed, many of the survivors took refuge in La Rochelle.

The Ile de Re, that was invaded by the English in 1622. Photo, Shutterstock

Despite having been granted certain privileges, such as freedom of worship under Louis XIII, in 1622 La Rochelle sided with the English, who had invaded the nearby Île de Ré.

Depiction of Cardinal Richelieu at the Seige of La Rochelle.

The town was blockaded for 14 months during the Siege of La Rochelle, along with other Protestant cities such as Sancerre, by the French king’s minister, Cardinal Richelieu, who built a vast sea wall to prevent English ships from relieving their allies. There’s a marker buoy in the bay which marks the place where Richelieu’s sea wall was built. The city finally capitulated, around three-quarters of the population having starved to death. Under continuing persecution, many Huguenots emigrated, founding such cities as New Rochelle, in the vicinity of today’s New York, in 1689.

A walk around La Rochelle will come across many links to the town’s maritime trading past.

Sea trade helped revive La Rochelle, with regular trade relations with New-France (Canada) and the West Indies. It was the heyday of the great shipowners that also saw the start of an intellectual and artistic influence that these commercial activities brought. There is a 17 stage walk through the town’s historic centre exploring the history that links La Rochelle to Quebec. Ask at the Tourist Office for details.

The Saint Nicolas Tower at the entrance into th old port of La Rochelle

There are some very impressive historic monuments in the town. The most conspicuous is undoubtedly the famous Towers of La Rochelle. Looking out to the Atlantic, at the entrance into the Vieux Port (old port), there’s the Tour Saint Nicolas, built in 1384, named after the patron saint of sailors, and the Tour de la Chaine. At times throughout the city’s history, a chain was stretched between these two towers to stop ships from entering. Today, the Tour Saint Nicolas still looks much as it did in the 1400s. Together with the Tour de la Chaîne on the opposite bank, it’s an impressive sight, and beautifully illuminated at night. You can climb the towers to get fabulous views over the city port and sea from their terraces, and all year round, the towers host exhibitions and events.

La Tour de la Chaine, at the entrance into the port of La Rochelle.

King Louis XI visited the Tour de la Chaine in 1472, and legend has it that he etched an inscription on one of the tower’s windows with the diamond on his finger. During the 17^th century, the tower was used to store gunpowder. During the Fronde uprising (by the nobility to check the increasing power of the monarchy), the tower exploded, and for 300 years was left open-topped. Important restoration work took place in the 20^th and 21^st centuries where the castellated rampart walkway was rebuilt, a new roof was put on and 2 indoor floors were reinstated.

The Lanterne Tower is the oldest lighthouse on the Atlantic coast. Photo, Shutterstock

Not far from these two towers is the Tour de la Lanterne, the oldest lighthouse on the Atlantic coast, its origins dating back to the end of the 17^th century. Located on the corner of the sea wall of the St-Jean-du-Port district, it’s the last medieval lighthouse on the Atlantic coast, and has always been both a lighthouse and a prison. There are over 600 examples of graffiti carved into its walls by prisoners over a period of 300 years—mostly English, Dutch and Spanish sailors who were captured at sea, as well as Protestants and militants from the Vendée (a counter-revolution in the Vendée region of France during the Revolution). The Tour was the residence of the “ship disarmer”, who was in charge of disarming the ships before they were permitted to enter the port, and it features a monumental arrow and a lantern to guide sailors. Topped by an octagonal Gothic spire and standing at 55m tall, you can see it from all around the Pertuis d’Antioche—the strait between the islands of Ré, Aix and Oléron—and it’s part of the “sea look-out” for military surveillance of the coast.

The lively waterfront of La Rochelle is lined in cafes and restaurants.

The streets immediately behind the harbour are the centre of activity in the town, and where visitors tend to spend most of their time. There’s a broad boulevard around the harbour, ideal for promenading and seeing much of the action of the town. There are also a lot of market stalls here, buskers and street artists and a wide range of restaurants. Those around the harbour front are mostly ‘cheap and cheerful’ seafood bistros, and many are very good.

Enter the historic centre from the port through the rch of the Grosse Horloge

However, for more upmarket restaurants in town, follow the street that starts from the end of the harbour-front eateries, that enters the old town. At the point where it leaves the harbour, the whole street is lined with good quality restaurants. There are numerous entry points into the town, but the most impressive entrance is next to the Grosse Horloge (large clock tower).

The lively streets of the historic centre of the town.

The town’s arcaded streets allow market traders to display their merchandise while sheltering them from inclement weather. Make sure you walk through the pretty rue de l’Escale, which is famous for being paved with cobblestones that came from St-Laurent, Canada, as ballast on the merchant ships.

The main square in the St Nicolas district.

The St-Nicolas district, which used to be the fishermen’s district, is between the railway station and the Vieux Port. Full of charm with its cobbled streets, its lovely little square is nestled in amongst the trees, and its houses tucked away under the old arcades. It’s a lively little quarter, with patisseries, butchers and restaurants on the inviting little terraces. It’s rather bohemian, with art galleries and bookshops, second-hand shops, pretty window displays and outdoor stalls, it’s perfect for relaxing strolls.

Place de la Fourche has lots of cafes and bir-a-brac shops.

The Place de la Fourche is the perfect setting for an outdoor lunch. If you enjoy hunting for unique antiques and treasures such as old postcards, vintage utensils, glassware, and lots of silverware engraved with family monograms, go to Place de la Motte Rouge, for the flea market held there every Thursday and Saturday under the shady trees. Every summer a crafts and creative market also sets up here, and it’s a very pleasant pastime strolling along browsing among their pretty, white wooden stands.

Don’t miss a visit to the daily market (Wednesday is the biggest day), in a 19th century building in St-Nicolas. It’s located between the railway station and the Vieux Port. Apart from the fabulous display of fresh produce, this market has an “à table” local producers scheme. Basically, you get a plate at the market, buy some bread, wander around and choose what you want from the stall holders—fresh, succulent oysters, wonderful cheeses, pâté, charcuterie, seasonal fruits etc., then enjoy your lunch selection onsite.

One of the most impressive of all the historic monuments in La Rochelle is the Hotel de Ville—a lovely 17th century building with turrets and elaborate carvings, inside a fortified wall.

Another beautiful building, the so-called Maison Henri II, is as lovely as the Hotel de Ville. Although it’s really just a façade of a house overlooking a small garden, it has a highly decorative appearance with numerous columns, and dates from the 16th century.

The Église Saint-Sauveur is a mix of styles from different centuries and periods of construction. A Gothic church on the site of an earlier 12th century church was demolished during the Wars of Religion, although the belltower remains. Rebuilt again in the 17th century, the replacement church burned to the ground except for the façade, and was rebuilt yet again in the early 18th century.

Other sights of interest include the Cathedral St-Louis on Place du Verdun, the Chamber of Commerce and the Law Courts. Dating from 1706, the pretty Cloister of the Dames Blanches is worth a look, and is often used for exhibitions. The cobbled arcaded rue d’Escale, leads to Maison Nicolas Venette, a house with numerous gargoyles and busts of doctors from antiquity. Venette was an important scientist and writer of various textbooks.

La Rochelle has many elegant white limestone mansions such as this.

All these fine buildings are in a lovely setting, with numerous townhouses and pretty streets, and much to enjoy as you wander about. This part of the old town also has numerous boutiques and other shopping opportunities to discover.

The perfect end to an enjoyable day exploring La Rochelle is to take a stroll to La Guignette. Well known by the locals and even beyond, this wine cellar is an institution here. Housed in a blacksmith’s old workshops, La Guignette embodies such traditional places, where the decor reflects life in the district over the last decades. The speciality of the house is an aromatic wine-based fruit drink: the green one is apple, the red is made from red berries and the yellow one is citrus fruit.

The ‘France I’ at the Maritime Museum is now a bar and restaurant.

Few visitors discover one of the locals’ favourite bars. Head to the Maritime Museum, and next to it is the ‘France I’, a former meteorological ship. It’s now a bar and restaurant, and a great place for an aperitif and simple snack, such as a seafood platter, or the inevitable oysters. You can relax and enjoy the sunset from the timber deck, and pretend you’re about to cast off!

Francofolies annual Music Festival at La Rochelle

If you find yourself in La Rochelle during July, you’ll encounter the annual Francofolies. Founded in 1985, this is a huge 5 day music festival, and aims at promoting French-language music, featuring both up-and-coming musicians as well as established artists, and sometimes a non-French guest—this year, Sting will appear. Around 100 concerts are programmed each year on several stages spread through the city, and one of the main venues is at the foot of the Towers. This festival attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors, so booking accommodation could be problematic. This year, 2024, the dates are Wednesday 10 to Sunday 14 July.

La Rochelle has two outstanding museums. The museum of Art and History of La Rochelle has brought together the Museum of the New World and the Museum of Fine Arts. The city was one of the major trading ports and emigration points to the New World, and it was the last sight thousands of emigrants saw before setting sail for the Americas and the Antilles. The Museum of the New World explores the relationship between France and the Americas, and its collection includes paintings, sculpture, ancient maps and decorative arts as well as 18^th century French furniture and rare American colonial furniture.

To discover the coast of La Rochelle, take a boat ride to Fort Boyard or go island hopping over to Ile de Ré, Ile d’Oleron and Ile d’Aix. Two hour, half day or full day trips are offered, and they leave from the Vieux Port, Cours des Dames or the Esplanade Saint Jean d’Acre. Pop into the Tourist Bureau for information.

The beautiful port of La Rochelle on the Atlantic coast is a very rewarding destination, with much to offer the visitor, with a vibrant maritime history, charming old port, Europe’s largest marina for pleasure boats, rich architectural heritage, cobbled streets, lively atmosphere and fantastic gastronomy. The city is often referred to as La Ville Blanche, due to its luminescent white limestone buildings, that for many visitors, makes it the most attractive resort town in the country.

A sailing school at the entrance into the port of La Rochelle

EXPLORING THE COAST FROM BORDEAUX TO LA ROCHELLE

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Our initial idea was to make our way straight from Bordeaux up the coast, and although we had intended to stop off briefly along the way at various points of interest, our main aim was simply to get to La Rochelle. We had been to La Rochelle some years ago, and remembered it as being a very attractive port town with lots to see and do. However, we hadn’t realised just how much there is to see en route, and so what was supposed to be a less than two hr. car trip, with some quick diversions on the way, instead turned out to take several days!

The Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe.

Before we headed northwards from Bordeaux, we took a detour 60 kms south-west to the coastal town of Arcachon. You can also take a direct train across from Bordeaux, which only takes around 54 mins., making it a very viable day trip. Some people combine Arcachon with a visit to the Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe, and one of the most popular destinations in the country.

Arcachon is known for its long sandy beaches located on the south part of a wide bay, but also most particularly for its oyster harvesting, that are reputed to be the most succulent of any along the Atlantic coast.

One of the many pretty restaurants in Arcachon.

The town is divided into 4 sectors. The Ville d’Été (summer city) is the city centre, with elegant buildings, pedestrianised streets, restaurants, and the main beach, regarded as one of the safest for kids on the Atlantic coast.

The Marche d’Arachon in the city centre.

Even just to stroll along the beautiful promenade next to the main beach is a delight. One of the main attractions in Arcachon’s city centre is the main market, Marché d’Arcachon, but also don’t miss the terrific covered market, full of food stands brimming with local delicacies.

Parc Mauresque, which overlooks the Ville d’Ete of Arcachon.

Overlooking La Ville d’Été is the delightful Parc Mauresque, built in 1843—you can spot it right from the city centre. If you don’t fancy climbing too many stairs, there’s a lift that will take you all the way up to the park’s centre. Next to the park is the Observatoire de Sainte Cecile, an iron framed platform, or belvedere, from where you will enjoy an incredible panoramic view of Arcachon Bay. If it reminds you of the Eiffel Tower, that’s because Gustave Eiffel was part of the project team.

One of the many fine Belle Epoque houses in Ville D’Hiver, Arcachon.

The Ville d’Hiver (winter city) is the most beautiful part of Arcachon. Built on the hills of the city in the late 19^th century, it’s adorned with more than 300 stunning 19^th century villas and attracts many visitors, thanks to the gorgeous architecture.

Club Plage Pereire Restaurant, Plage Pereire at Arcachon

The Ville d’Automne (autumn city) is the port and the fishing area of Arcachon. Lastly, the Ville de Printemps (spring city) covers the most beautiful beaches in the southern part of the bay. It’s said that the best beaches of Arcachon are located in this part of the city, one of which, Plage Pereire, starts right after the pedestrian promenade.

One of the very popular oyster bars on the beach at Arcachon.

It’s a beautiful 3 km long beach with white sand and equipped with many sports facilities, a cycle path and green lawns perfect for picnicking, and in the summer months, the beach café, Club Plage Pereire, is just the spot for a very pleasant meal or a just a drink on the beach.

Cap Ferret, Arcachon Bay. Photo, Shutterstock

From here, there’s a view of the Cap Ferret peninsula on the other side of the bay. This is one of the most charming villages on the Bassin d’Arcachon, and known particularly for its oyster farming—there are a number of restaurants on the beach that are reputed to serve the freshest in the area.

We thought we’d simply resume our original plan to head north from Bordeaux, but rather than taking the more direct inland road, we took the coast road. An hour and half northwards on this road leads to Talmont-sur-Gironde, designated as one of the ‘Plus Beaux Villages de France’ as well as one of the ‘Petites Cités de Caractère’. Discover a village founded in 1284 by Edward 1^st of Aquitaine, on a rocky promontory overlooking the Gironde Estuary.

The Church of Sainte-Radegonde, Talmont-sur-Gironde.

Dominating the village, and still fortified with ramparts, is the magnificent church of Sainte-Radegonde, a symbol of the Poitou-Charentes region. In the village, pretty houses with white facades and blue shutters, artisan studios, flowering plants lining cobbled streets, and stunning views await. Well worth a quick detour.

Royan’s popular beachfront, lined with fine Belle Epoque buildings along the waterfront.

Barely 20 minutes further north of Talmont-sur-Gironde is Royan, a resort town on the coast and at the mouth of the Gironde estuary. Known for its fine sandy beaches and sheltered waters, the town itself was heavily bombed by the Allies in September 1944 and again in April 1945.

Notre Dame de Royan. Photo, Shutterstock

It became known as “the martyred city”, and was declared a “Laboratory”, becoming a showcase of research on urbanism and the Modernist architecture of the 1950s, one example being a rather startling modern concrete church, Nôtre-Dame de Royan.

One of Royan’s magnificent Belle Epoque mansions

It was classified as a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire in 2010. However, the town still has around 30 or so impressive villas from the Belle Époque era, built at a time when sea bathing became fashionable. It also attracted many well-known artists during the Roaring Twenties. The town has a marina for over 1,000 boats and an active fishing port. The impressive Cordouan Lighthouse stands on an islet in the estuary, and is accessible by ferry, if you’d like to visit.

Back on the main road, slightly inland from the coast, keep an eye out for the Château d’Usson, recently renamed Château des Enigmes, in line with the theme of a treasure hunt the owners have created for children. This is a beautiful Renaissance style château with gardens, an orangery and a little farm. You can visit the château’s interiors, and discover its underground passages. For those interested in one of the district’s most famous products, the Château is only 30 mins. from Cognac.

About 30 kms further along, primarily on the left bank of the Charente, is the town of Saintes —originally called Mediolanum Santonum–that has a Roman amphitheatre whose construction started during the reign of the Emperor Tiberius, (14 – 37CE) and completed until the Emperor Claudius. The Amphitheatre of Mediolanum was one of the earliest in Gaul, and constructed when the city became the capital of Greater Aquitaine. Built outside the walls, the amphitheatre could seat 15,000 spectators and was known for gladiatorial contests and animal hunts.

The town also had other important Roman-era monuments such as the Arch of Germanicus, the thermal baths, and an aqueduct which is still partially visible today. Due to its important Gallo-Roman, medieval and classical heritage, Saintes has been a member of the French Towns and Lands of Art and History since 1990, and has several museums and organises numerous festivals. It is also a European centre of musical research and practice in the local Abbaye aux Dames.

From Saintes, heading towards La Rochelle, just a couple of minutes off the main road you’ll come to Rochefort, one of the most beautiful Small Towns of Character. A port on the Charente estuary, and without doubt, a visit is like stepping back in time. Originally, it was an area of swamps and marshes, but today, what we see is an incredible heritage site with museums, mills and traces of historic shipbuilding activity.

The replica of the ‘Hermione’ at Rochefort’s dockside

One of Rochefort’s great attractions is the Arsenal Quarter. Created in the 1660s, as Louis XIV’s Royal Dockyards, to be the “largest and most beautiful arsenal in the kingdom”, it operated for over 3 centuries. 550 ships were built, rigged and launched from the docks. A replica of the ‘Hermione’, the legendary frigate that carried the Marquis de La Fayette to America was built here, is on show. This replica, built back in 1997, was a mammoth undertaking, and took 17 years to complete. Following its namesake, it undertook an historic voyage to America. She’s now docked in Rochefort and visitors can go abord to admire the incredible workmanship, which brought a 17^th century ship to life in the 21^st century.

The vast Corderie Royale, Louis XIV’s rope-making factory.

The centrepiece of Louis XIV’s dockyards was the rope-making factory, the Corderie Royale. It was absolutely critical for the production of rigging for warships. As some sails were very tall, ropes had to be long enough to fulfil the need. At 374m long, the rope factory is still a very impressive sight today. It’s now a fascinating museum, with excellent explanations about the cultivation of hemp, and shows how the plant’s fibres were twisted into 200m lengths of rigging for 200 ships, up to the introduction of steel cables. You can also have a go at making a rope yourself!

One sight not to be missed nearby is the Pont Transbordeur du Martrou (Rochefort-Martrou Transporter Bridge). This is the only surviving bridge of its kind in France, built in 1900, and now listed as an historic monument, it’s an incredible heritage site. To this day, it carries foot passengers and cyclists across the river Charente on a platform suspended on cables attached to a metal framework over the river. There’s an interpretation centre, the Maison du Transbordeur, where you can discover all about the history of the bridge.

Looking down from the upper level of Musee des Commerces d’Autrefois, Rochefort.

Another really interesting museum is the Musée des Commerces d’Autrefois—which roughly translates as a museum of trades of yesteryear. There are 22 galleries which recreate the ateliers (workshops) and shop floors of trades of the past. For example, you can step into an old bicycle repair shop, a milliner’s atelier, and a cognac distillery. There are lovely vintage posters, and original artefacts of everyday appliances from between 1900 and WW2. Even the in-house bistro is fun.

Place Colbert in the heart of Rochefort.

Rochefort was built as a 17^th century version of a “new town” by Louis XIV’s minister, Colbert, and designed with grand avenues, elegant 17^th century houses and plenty of charm. In the centre of town, Place Colbert is a great place to take a break for a coffee and a spot of people-watching. Nearby rue Courbet is little changed from the 17^th century with its cobblestones brought from Canada as ships’ ballast. Most of the houses in this part of town are the original 17^th-19^th century properties. The houses are typically built from the local white stone and often have decorative entrances or balconies. An interesting titbit of trivia: the layout of the town was designed by a certain Monsieur Bégon, who also gave his name to the Begonia flower.

The Arab Room in the house museum of the writer Pierre Loti at Rochefort.

The former home of the French novelist Julian Viaud, who wrote under the pen name of Pierre Loti, is open as a house museum. A naval officer, he wrote numerous best-selling romances set in exotic Oriental locations. From outside, the house looks fairly unprepossessing, but inside, it’s much more interesting, with a medieval-themed banqueting hall, complete with a Gothic fireplace, Gobelins tapestries, and an Arab room, among other treasures.

Somewhat reluctant to leave delightful Rochefort, we continued on our way for a further 40kms up the coast road to La Rochelle after enjoying some great diversions along the way. I’ll share our La Rochelle experiences in the next blog story.

A coastal Vauban fortress on the outskirts of Rochefort

DISCOVERING BORDEAUX

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Porte Cailhou on Place du Palais. Photo, Shutterstock

The city of Bordeaux is now such a pleasure to visit and explore, with a rich historic heritage of elegant historic stone buildings, impressive monuments that invite the visitor to stroll along its pedestrian streets, into any number of bistros, Michelin-starred restaurants, wine bars and enticing shops that draw you in. The city today bears little resemblance to the first time we saw it, decades ago now, when the fine stone buildings were grimy, blackened from soot and dirt, shabby and unloved. Seeing the beautiful, creamy stone of the fine city buildings today, it’s hard to imagine its recent past. After many years of hard work, the ‘Sleeping Beauty’ has awoken from its slumber. It’s now a World Heritage Site, and one France’s greatest treasures.