Author: Cheryl Brooks

The village of Lourmarin is one of the loveliest in the region, and it comes as no surprise that it has been designated one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France.  Every time we’re in this part of Provence, we make a point of visiting Lourmarin, and this last time we stayed for a couple of nights so that we could better absorb the atmosphere, and see what the village was like out of the normal tourist visiting hours.  Despite being such a popular destination, Lourmarin has managed to maintain a lively community spirit and obvious sense of camaraderie among the locals.

Lourmarin lies at the foot of the Luberon Massif (mountain) in the heart of the Regional Natural Park of the Luberon, in the Department of Vaucluse, where a pass divides the Luberon from north to south.  Most of the villages of the Luberon are in the so-called Petit Luberon to the west.  The Massif here is low enough that you can walk up to the top without being a climber, and high enough to give fantastic views from the path that runs all along the top.  In the Luberon, you can find the bling of a “6-star palace” hotel in one village, and 10 minutes away the absolute authenticity of a quiet village whose ancient fountain gurgles away in a dusty square, with one small café and a boulangerie.

Lourmarin is located 35 kms north of Aix-en-Provence, just a short 35-40 min. drive or an hour’s bus ride.  58 kms from Avignon, it takes around 2 hrs. by bus, changing at Apt., or around 40 mins. by car.  Although not a typical perched, hill-top village—it’s on a plain with two slight hills (more like rises).  As you’ll discover, it’s one of the loveliest Luberon villages.  As soon as you arrive, you know you’ve found somewhere quite special, and it comes as no surprise to learn that it is designated as one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France (most beautiful villages).  As someone once remarked, it’s where café culture meets the timeless delights of a medieval Luberon village.

Lourmarin always has a lively atmosphere, especially on Fridays, which is market day.  Brightly coloured stalls overflow with fresh produce, flowers—especially enormous bunches of lavender during the harvesting season–local olives, cheeses, Provençal-themed table linen, pretty baskets and fashion.  From 8.00am, vendors’ white vans fill the car-park and market stalls set up in Place Henri Barthelemy, spilling out along the narrow streets.  Lourmarin’s organic market takes place on Tuesday evenings.

In the centre of the village where the roads converge, there are tables everywhere on the footpath, where you can join locals sitting in the sun enjoying a morning coffee, a relaxing drink at sundown after a busy day exploring, to a 5-course dinner at the end of the day.  The streets of the village meander round, past fountains and houses packed tightly side-by-side, rising up to the highest point of the village to the impressive belfry, built on the vestiges of a medieval moated château that once defined Lourmarin.

Lourmarin had been an important stop on the Marseille-Apt route since the 11^th century, located in the cleft that runs right through the Luberon mountain range.  It was also a popular stopping point for travellers on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.  The village was under the control of the Baux family, lords of the county of Forcalquier in the 10^th century, then in the 13^th century, it was integrated into the county of Provence.  During the Renaissance period, the population of the village increased following the emigration of the Vaudois of the Alps (Briançon, Embrun, and the valleys of Piedmont).

In April 1545, following the violent conflict between Catholics and Protestants, the troops of the French privateer, Paulin de la Garde, acting on behalf of King François 1, then Henri ll, and at the request of the first president of Provence, the village was set on fire.  Some of the survivors converted to Catholicism, while others, rather than convert to Roman Catholicism, subsequently left and headed back to Piedmont.

There was still a sizeable Protestant community in the 17^th century, but after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, some of the Huguenot winegrowers of the village fled to the Netherlands.  They then embarked on the ships of the Dutch East India Company for South Africa.  One of the Lourmarin winemakers, Jean Roy, emigrated to South Africa in 1688 and established one of the most famous vineyards in that country today, the L’Ormarins estate in Franschhoek.

A plague epidemic reduced the population by one-third in 1720.  However, in the 18^th and 19^th centuries, the village prospered due to the development of agriculture, vineyards, olive groves and silkworms.

The medieval Château de Lourmarin was built between 1480 and 1526 by Fouques d’Agoult, chamberlain of King Rene l of Anjou, and his successors on the ruins of the ancient 12^th century fort.  The Renaissance part of the château was built between 1526 and 1560, although the elegant galleries of stone and wood were built in the 15^th century, while the square tower, its chimneys decorated with caryatids, and high bays connected by vertical spans, and the fountains were constructed in the Renaissance style.

Although the château escaped destruction during the Revolution, it was badly neglected over the centuries by successive owners, and fell into partial ruin.  During the 1920s, Laurent Vibert, a Lyon-based industrialist and patron, bought the château and restored it entirely, based on archival documents.  It has been described as the “Little Villa Medici of Provence.”

The first part of the château you visit is the Loggia, and the medieval section, on 3 levels, is accessed by a spiral staircase.  In the courtyard itself are the vaulted cellars: an old prison, the kitchen and bakery where you can still see the oven.  There is an impressive double spiral staircase, and on each floor as you ascend, you will find the concert room, ladies’ bedchamber, reception room, salon, music room, gentlemen’s bedchamber, all of which are decorated in 18^th century Provençal style, with many treasures on display.  There’s beautiful woodwork and centuries old furniture, enormous fireplaces with intricate carving.

The château is aligned with the Academie des Arts et des Belles-Lettres in Aix-en-Provence, and these days welcomes young talents from the region, and organises a wide variety of cultural events throughout the year.  The château was classified as a Monument Historique in 1973, and it’s open for visits all year round.  Guided tours of the château and its art, including some engravings by Piranesi, are available.

In the village also check out the 15^th century belfry, the 11^th century Church of Saint André et Saint Trophime, with its splendid Renaissance vaults and majestic altarpiece dedicated to the patron saint, the alleyways and their ancient façades, the Protestant Temple and its clock tower, the fountains, and the numerous art galleries and antiques shops.

Lourmarin has had its share of famous residents, such as the writer Henri Bosco and Nobel Prize-winning author Albert Camus, who are now buried in the village cemetery.  There is a street in the village named after Camus.  The British writer Peter Mayle, who wrote the hugely popular “A Year in Provence”, once lived briefly in the village after returning from the Hamptons in the US, before moving to the neighbouring village of Vaugines.

Every part of this little village is full of Provençal life, with locals going about their daily activities and visitors strolling about enjoying the atmosphere.  The narrow streets that meander around the village’s heart are brimming with the most charming boutiques, antique shops, art galleries, casual restaurants and cafes serving good quality local food and local wines.

At the main intersection in the village, there are cafes spread out along the footpaths, where both visitors and locals gather at the bistro tables outside and enjoy sitting amongst friends and strangers in this charming setting.  This small village is the perfect location to spend a day or two simply relaxing and taking in the special atmosphere and hospitality of the Luberon.

“Lourmarin. The first evening after many so many years.  The first star over the Luberon, the immense silence, the top of the Cyprus tree that trembles in the breeze…”  Albert Camus

“Yes, one evening in Provence, one perfect hill, one whiff of salt are enough to show us that everything still lies before us…”    Albert Camus, writing about Lourmarin.

We have driven along the Esterel Corniche (coast road) from Nice heading to St Tropez many times over the years, and have often stopped at the pretty coastal town of Fréjus for lunch at one of the many attractive beachside cafes.  We’ve walked around it, enjoyed browsing through the numerous resort-wear shops, or simply rested on a beachside seat and enjoyed the sight of boats bobbing on the calm waters and admired the lovely villas perched above the port.  Recently, we decided we would stop off for a short stay and explore the town in depth for a change.  We’re so glad we did, and discovered some gems in the town on the hill above the port.  We were already aware of its Roman history, but the ruins remaining today are most impressive, testament to its importance in the region’s ancient past.

Merging almost as one with neighbouring Saint  Raphaël, Fréjus is one of the best-known seaside resorts on the French Riviera.  Extending further along to Saint-Aygulf, the beach has fine sand, and bordered along much of its length by a promenade shaded by palm trees along the pathway.  An added attraction is that every Sunday along the seafront, producers, craftspeople and market gardeners offer a wide selection of fresh fruit and vegetables, seafood, local cheeses, cold meats and charcuterie.  Stalls also display a large selection of clothing, household utensils, toys, home décor accessories and furniture, as well as flowers and plants.

On Wednesday and Saturday mornings, right in the centre of the historic town, on a hill above the waterfront, local producers and craftspeople fill the nearby streets and picturesque squares with Provençal and Mediterranean flavours and colours of locally-grown herbs, olive oils and wines from the nearby Var region, as well as locally-caught seafood, shellfish and fish, and crafts such as pottery.  In the summer months, there’s a delightful night market along the waterfront selling works by local artists and craftspeople, jewellery and fashion accessories, toys and other goodies.

The historic town today is a fascinating and varied testament to the rich cultural heritage of the civilisations that have inhabited the area.  The first inhabitants are thought to have been the Celto-Ligurian people, who settled around the natural harbour.  The remains of a defensive wall are still visible on Mont Auriasque and Cap Capelin, up in the Massif d’Esterel mountains to the north-east of Fréjus. The Phocaeans (not to be confused with the Phoenicians!) of Marseille later established an outpost on the site.

Fréjus was strategically situated at an important crossroads formed by the Via Julia Augusta—which ran between Italy and the Rhône—and the Via Domitia.  Although there are only a few traces of a settlement at that time, it’s known that the poet Cornelius Gallus was born there in 67 BCE.  Julius Caesar wanted to supplant Massalia (Marseilles), so established the town as Forum Julii, meaning ‘market of Julius’.  The Roman historian Tacitus also named this port “claustra maris”(gateway to the sea).  The Forum Julii is mentioned in correspondence between Plancus and Cicero around 43 BCE.  It was at Forum Julii that Octavius (who later became the Emperor Augustus) repatriated the galley ships taken from Mark Antony at the Battle of Actium in 31 BCE, and between 29 and 27 BCE, it became a colony for his veterans of the 8^th legion, adding the suffix Octavanorum Colonia.

Augustus made the growing city the capital of the new Roman province of Narbonensis in 22 BCE, which spurred on rapid, new development.

It became one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean, and its port was the only naval base for the Roman fleet of Gaul.  It remained operative until the reign of the Emperor Claudius, second only to the port of Ostia in Italy until the time of Nero.

Subsequently, under the reign of Tiberius, the major monuments and amenities still visible today were constructed, namely the amphitheatre, the aqueduct, the lantern, baths and theatre.  Impressive walls over 3.70 kms in length were erected to protect an area of around 35 hectares that had about 6,000 inhabitants. It became an important market town for craft and agricultural production.  The mining of green sandstone and blue porphyry, as well as fish farming contributed to the thriving economy.

In 40 CE Gnaeus Julius Agricola, who later completed the Roman conquest of Britain, was born in Forum Julii.  He was the father-in-law of the historian Tacitus, whose biography of Agricola mentions that Forum Julii was an “ancient and illustrious colony.”  The city was also mentioned several times in the writings of Strabo and Pliny the Elder.

In the 4^th century, the Diocese of Fréjus was created, which became the second largest after Lyon.  The first church was built in 374 with the election of a bishop.  However, the decay of the Roman empire led to that of its cities throughout its territories.

Up in Fréjus, the Roman amphitheatre—often referred to as the Arena—dominates.  When it was built, it was one of the most imposing in Gaul, with a seating capacity of 12,000 people.  Today, it continues to be the venue for shows and performances throughout the year—in line with its original purpose.  It’s open from Thursday to Saturday, closed on holidays.

The Romans also built the nearby 1^st Century CE theatre that also hosts live shows and an outdoor cinema program in the summer months of June – August.  Have a quick look at the aqueduct close by, once over 42 kms long, of which there are a few columns still remaining.  Just out of the historic centre of town, on Chemin de la Lanterne d’Auguste, is another monument of the Roman period, the Lantern of Augustus.  This 10m high hexagonal structure once stood at the entrance to the port as a landmark for sailors, although it was not, as was once thought, a lighthouse.

The only standing vestige of a vast Roman thermal complex is the Porte d’Orée near rue des Moulins—sometimes inaccurately written as “Porte Dorée”, as it was thought to have been the remains of the southern gate on the edge of the city.  Listed as a Historical Monument in 1886, it is located in the northwest of the Roman port, and corresponds to the arch into the cold room (frigidarium) of the baths.  The Roman town walls are situated at the Clos de la Tour.  The route of the wall follows the relief of the rocky hill on which Fréjus was constructed.

The medieval heart of the town is one of the main drawcards of Fréjus.  The centre is the very pretty Place Camille Formigé.  Pastel-coloured shuttered townhouses line two sides of the market square while the elegant orange façade of the Hotel de Ville and striking Cité Episcopale, or cathedral close, are along the other sides.  Large plane trees and olive trees in tubs, and several delightful-looking cafes complete this typical Provençal scene.

The cathedral of the episcopal group marks the entry of the bishopric in the region in the year 374.  Its beautiful octagonal Baptistery (Baptistière) dates from around the early 5^th century, just as Roman power was declining.  One of the oldest and best preserved examples of early Christian architecture in France, it is adorned with granite columns that have been re-used and date from antiquity, and five of them come from the Turkish city of Ezine.

The octagonal baptismal font was only rediscovered in the 1920s, having been built over in the 13^th century.  The lovely cloister needed considerable restoration after the Revolution, and again between 1922 and 1931, along with an old well, a former Roman cistern.  There’s a very good archaeological museum next to the cloister houses that has a scale model of the Roman town and a fine collection of Roman artefacts, very well displayed.

The first bishop’s residence was built to the south of the cathedral in the 5^th century, and later altered in the 11^th and 12^th centuries.  It too was badly damaged during the Revolution and sold as national property at that time.  The city of Fréjus bought it and after restoration in 1823, returned it to the church.  After the separation of the church and the state in 1905, the city of Fréjus asked for the property back, and the palace officially became the Hotel de Ville of Fréjus in 1912.

Since 1987, Fréjus has been designated as a “City of Art and History,” which means it has demonstrated a commitment to preserving its archaeological and architectural heritage.  The local community and its leadership have been recognised for their awareness and sensitivity for the architectural treasures from all periods and for all time.

Fréjus is also part of the Circuit des Metiers d’Art, that revives a tradition that had died out in the 18^th century, which had its origin in the pottery shops located inside the ancient city itself.  As a member of the network “City of Artisan Crafts”, Fréjus strives to promote the installation of workshops of local resident artists, which means there is a good selection of these crafts to discover.

There are any number of outdoor terraces and delightful places to eat or simply enjoy a drink in Fréjus and Saint-Raphael—which merge into each other, it’s impossible to say where one ends and the other begins.  Aside from the waterfront cafes, a lovely place to have lunch is Place Fevrier, the square near the church in Fréjus.

In and around Fréjus and St Raphael there are also several wineries where you can wander around and taste delicious local wines. Some of the wineries in the area are Les Celliers du Sud at 168 rue Henri Vadon near the Roman Amphitheatre, La Cave des Cariatides in rue Sieyes in the historic centre, and Château de Paquette on Chemin de Curebéasse, Fréjus.  There are others somewhat out of town, but ask about all of them at the Tourist Office in Fréjus in rue Jean Jaures in the historic centre.

As well as its pretty beaches, ports full of millionaires’ yachts and many coastal resorts, there is such a lot to see and do in this lovely town, especially its historic centre, which adds a wider dimension to a Riviera holiday.

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The Côte d’Azur has so many wonderful attractions, many of which aren’t associated with beaches, famous luxury hotels or shopping—although the area offers plenty of all those!  If you’d like a little time out from the activities of the cities, beaches and what we think of as the typical Riviera pursuits, think about heading up into the surrounding hills and little villages perched on the slopes that dot the landscape, so near and yet so far.  We try and make time to explore a couple of these whenever we’re in the area, and have loved discovering such gems as Tourrettes-sur-Loup and La Turbie.  There are also a couple of absolutely delightful train trips, such as the Train des Pignes, up into the beautiful mountain areas that can really enhance a Riviera holiday.

It’s fairly certain that the majority of Riviera visitors are there for the beaches, great places to eat, shopping for resort-style fashion—the alluring Mediterranean attractions.  To round out a stay in this region, a day trip or two up into the hinterland is to discover some of the most beautiful terrain, small towns and villages in the entire country.  We’ve already had a look at St Paul de Vence and Vence in the last story, but a number of other destinations are within easy reach of Nice, in particular.

At only 14 kms from the coast, between Nice and Cannes, 8 kms from St Paul de Vence and just 5 kms from Vence, lies Tourrettes-sur-Loup, a charming medieval village which is well worth a detour.  Perched on a rocky outcrop surrounded by a beautiful landscape, the village seems to conquer all beneath it with its tall houses built along its ramparts.

The best way to discover Tourrettes-sur-Loup is by wandering around its attractive, narrow streets, its vaulted passageways, admiring the well-restored stone façades and slowly climbing up some of the stepped passages, bordered with colourful flower baskets.  The village isn’t called “the violet village” for nothing, since for over a century, this pretty little flower has been grown in the village.  It’s honoured each March with a flower festival, decorated floats and a battle of the flowers.

The heart of the historic centre of the village is the Grand Rue that follows the circumference of the village, where you’ll see about 30 artists’ workshops, galleries and crafts workshops making jewellery, pottery, paintings, fabrics and more.  In a small square is a must-see, the Hotel de Ville, that was originally the small Château des Villeneuve, dating from the 15^th century.  A delightful outdoor market takes place every Wednesday morning at Place de la Libération, where you can stock up on a variety of goodies and local produce.  Also have a look at a lovely 16^th century church, Saint Gregoire.

Getting to Tourrettes-sur-Loup from Nice by public transport isn’t difficult.  Take bus no. 09 from Nice’s Grand Arenas bus stop to Vence, which takes around 46 mins., then transfer onto bus no. 651 to Tourrettes-sur-Loup.  Or you can take a train from Nice Ville, the main railway station, to Cagnes-sur-Mer, which takes around 15 mins., then from there, more or less across the road is the bus stop, Square du 08 Mai.  Catch a bus no. 09 to Vence, which will take around 18 mins., then bus no. 651 across to Tourrettes-sur-Loup, which is less than 15 mins. away.  Sounds messy, but actually very do-able.  Of course, easiest and most direct of all is to drive, which takes around 30 mins.  The road goes through Cagnes-sur-Mer, then via St Paul de Vence and Vence.

Another lovely day out is to head to La Turbie, slightly north of Monaco, on the spectacular Grand Corniche road that runs from Nice to Monaco—one of the great scenic highlights of this region.

The town is especially famous for the large Roman monument, La Trophée d’Auguste (Trophy of Augustus), erected around 6 BCE to celebrate the Emperor’s victory over the Ligurian tribes of the area.

The monument once featured an enormous statue of Augustus on top.  The views from the monument are breathtaking—among the best on the Riviera.  Apart from La Trophée, one of the biggest drawcards of La Tubie is the scenic viewpoint of Tete du Chien (literally: Dog’s Head) that overlooks Monaco.  This spot is an easy 20-25 min. slightly uphill walk that takes you out to the edge of the cliffs overlooking the coastline below.

During the Middle Ages the village was mainly under the dominion of the Republic of Genoa.  Dante wrote in his ‘Divina Commedia’ that Turbia was the western limit of the Italian Liguria.  It was also alternatively part of Savoy and the Principality of Monaco, from where the local population assimilated the Monegasque dialect mixed with a local version of the Ligurian dialect.  La Turbie is very small, and has largely kept its charm and authenticity, with its harmonious mix of classic, medieval and baroque architecture.  Much of the village’s earliest buildings were built using stones from the Roman monument.  There are 4 Portails, or medieval gates, to the village located around the perimeter of the historic village.  You can see the ramparts from the Middle Ages, stroll along the cobblestone streets and through arched passageways, pass by a Romanesque fountain and a beautiful Baroque church with its square belltower.  There are plenty of restaurants and cafes in which to relax.  There are also a couple of hotels, one of which we understand has a Michelin-starred restaurant.

La Turbie is also the cradle of mountain car races.  This started on 31 January 1897, when the last stage of the Marseilles-Nice race was a 17 km. hill climb between Nice and La Turbie.  This race was won by Andre Michelin, behind the wheel of a De Dion steam-powered engine, that reached an astonishing speed of 31.8 km p/hr!  Another, more unfortunate event occurred on 13 September 1982 when Princess Grace of Monaco was killed in a car accident at Cap d’Ail, near La Turbie on the Route de la Turbie road.

Getting to La Turbie from Nice is straightforward.  Take a train from Nice Ville station to Gare de Monaco-Monte Carlo and then bus no. 603 from the railway station up to La Turbie, which will take around 25 mins.

For something completely different for a great day out of Nice, the Train des Pignes is a scenic train ride from the coast up into the mountains.

The train uses Gare de Nice at 4, Rue Alfred Binet, about 6 blocks from the main railway station.  It runs on the Chemins de Fer de Provence railway line, which is a separate rail service from the SNCF and does not use the same stations.  This connects Nice on the Riviera with the historic town of Digne Les-Bains, in the heart of Haute Provence, taking you from the sea to (potentially) snow-capped mountains in just 3 hrs 30 mins.  The Train des Pignes passes through two regions:  the Alpes-Maritime Alps and the Alpes de Haut de-Provence.  Along the way, you peer down into deep gorges, and pass gentle olive groves, fields of Provençal herbs and medieval fortresses.

The idea for the Train des Pignes was proposed in 1861, but due to the many construction challenges of the terrain, it was not until 1911 that the line finally reached Nice.  The route covers a distance 150 kms, with 25 tunnels, 16 viaducts and 15 metal bridges.  The new trains on the route have large windows that allow travellers to fully enjoy the passing landscape:  uninterrupted vistas of waterways, mountains, gorges and valleys, some of which are not accessible by car.  The ride is a great, scenic adventure!  However, there is also the option of taking the recently restored historic steam train.  Check with the Nice Tourist Office for specific details.  The name ‘Train des Pignes’ comes from the pine-cones that were once used as tinder to start the steam engines of the original trains.

The journey begins through the city streets of Nice, then passes through a few tunnels to the little stations of La Madeleine and St Isidore before dropping down to the Var valley and Lingostiere station.  Along the Var river the train stops at various stations along the way to Plan-du-Var.  From there, at the mouth of the rugged Gorges de Vésubie, then the gorges of the Var river.  Stops along this section include the villages of Villars-sur-Var, the tiny 12^th century village of Touet-sur-Var, and Puget-Theniers, where the steam trains are garaged.

After Puget-Theniers, it’s only a few minutes to the station at the fortified village of Entrevaux and its high Vauban fortress, which guards a narrow gap in the mountains.  Then the train continues along the deep river valleys through hills and west towards Annot, which is at the other end of the steam-train section.  A few minutes after Annot, at the little village of Le Fugeret, in the beautiful Vaire river valley, the train climbs up through a tunnel and loops around on itself in order to gain enough altitude to continue north.

There’s a stop at the mountain side below the little perched village of Méailles—you need to inform the conductor when you get on if you wish to alight here—down into river valleys alongside rivers, through the mountain park area of the Trois Asses.  Huge birds of prey such as buzzards and harriers, are a common sight up here.  Then there’s the final stretch into Digne-les-Bains.  Bear in mind that the train ticket allows passengers to take a later train back to Nice, or even stay overnight at Digne, perhaps take one of the hiking trails, or simply relax and explore the town.

Dignes is an important centre for growing lavender for the perfume industry and especially lavender essential oil.  If you want to see hectares and hectares of the plant, and with the air heavy with its perfume, plan on visiting between 15 June and the end of July.  The flowering lasts until the end of August, but lavender is harvested from the second half of July.

However, long after the harvest, the air is still fragrant with the scent from the cut plants.  Since 1939, every year on the first weekend of August in Digne, the town celebrates its best-known crop with parades of decorated floats, locals dressed in traditional Provençal costume, musical groups, a fun fair and evening fireworks.  The town has a Lavender Museum that tells the story of the cultivation and uses for its famous plant.

There are so many more wonderful things and sights to explore in this part of France, that I haven’t even touched on, such as Gourdon, Saorge, Saint Agnes, or Peillon, just to name a few more spectacular villages in the Alpes-Maritimes—enough to fill many happy days.  Instead of spending all your time in the cities and coastal resorts, add an extra day or two to discover some of these other delights as well.

One of the most famous perched villages on the Riviera is St Paul de Vence.  It’s within easy reach of Nice for a lovely day out, and what’s more, it’s very near the location of one of the most outstanding art museums in France, the Fondation Maeght.  Not far from the Fondation Maeght is the village of Vence (not to be confused with St Paul de Vence!), in the hinterland of Nice, in the direction of Grasse.  This village is famous for being the location of the Chapelle du Rosaire (Chapel of the Rosary), decorated by Henri Matisse, and recognised as one of his most outstanding masterpieces.  Aside from the many enticing attractions in this part of the Riviera, the dramatic landscape alone is described by many as the highlight of their Riviera trip.

If a visitor to the Côte d’Azur knows the name of only one village in that region, it would likely be Saint Paul de Vence, one of the oldest medieval towns on the Riviera.  This beautiful, perched village is about 20 kms from Nice.  As well as driving, you can also catch the train from Nice Ville to Cagnes-sur-Mer and then a bus from there up to Le Taude bus stop in Saint Paul, all of which takes a little over 45 mins.  Alternatively, a Lignes d’Azur bus goes from Albert 1er Verdun stop in Nice to the airport and change there for another bus to Le Taude stop at Saint Paul.  This takes around an hour or so.  There’s also a tram that you can take from Jean Medecin stop in Nice to Grand Arenas Nice stop and change there for a bus up to Le Taude, Saint Paul.  Sounds complicated, but it’s actually quite simple. The public transport system is also very economical, and whichever you choose, it’ll cost from AUD$ 5 – $10, max.  All the modes of transport are very accustomed to visitors heading up to Saint Paul, so don’t hesitate to ask anyone, as well, of course, the Nice Tourist Office.  There’s also a Tourism Information Office at 2, rue Grande in Saint Paul.  Up until 2011 Saint Paul de Vence was officially known simply as Saint-Paul, and is usually still called that by locals and regular visitors to the area.

The medieval village is perched on top of a small elliptical hill surrounded by a high wall built in 1538 by Francois l Valois, King of France, who was on the throne from 1515 to 1547.  In the 2^nd half of the 19^th century, the village’s inhabitants had to buy the surrounding walls to protect them from destruction.

There’s a wonderful panoramic view of the whole area, and as the village lies just a few kilometres from the sea, you can see the coast between Cagnes-sur-Mer and Antibes, while to the north-west, you can see the snow-capped peaks of the Alpes Maritimes.  Given its location, it was an obvious location for erecting a fortress during the Middle Ages.  Many of the buildings of the village date back to those times as well as the 16^th and 17^th centuries.

The village itself is not so famous for its countless tourist attractions, as simply a great destination in itself.  Stroll along the main street, rue Grande, which leads from the entrance at the north gate (Porte de Vence) to the end of the village, where the cemetery is located just behind the southern gate.  Along the way, you’ll pass charming little galleries, shops, restaurants and many art studios.  One of the most photographed attractions is the impressive fountain in Place de la Grande Fontaine, which dates back to the Middle Ages.

At the highest point in the village there was once a château, but unfortunately, today only a small building is left in which the Hotel de Ville is located. Right next to it stands a church from the 14th century which was raised to collegiate status (Collégiale de la Conversion-de-Saint-Paul) in the 17th century. Nearby is the former Chapelle des Penitents Blancs (Chapel of the White Penitents) from the 17th century, which was restored and decorated at the beginning of the 21st century by the Belgian artist, Jean-Michel Folon. The Chapelle now carries his name.  Entry is about 4€.

Saint Paul has long been a mecca for artists who have been coming here since the 1920s, among them Picasso, Chagall, Dufy and Matisse. Chagall lived in Saint Paul for 19 years and is buried in the local cemetery. The village is well-known today for its modern and contemporary art museums and galleries, such as the outstanding Fondation Maeght nearby, and for the 17th century Saint Charles-Saint Claude chapel, which was decorated with murals by French artist Paul Conte in 2012-13.

For decades, the village has been a haven for the famous, mostly due to the hotel located in front of the walls, La Colombe d’Or, whose former guests included Jean-Paul Sartre and Pablo Picasso.  During the 1960s, the village was frequented by French actors Yves Montand, Simone Signoret and Lino Ventura, as well as poet Jacques Prévert.  Other famous faces that regularly visited St Paul included Greta Garbo, Sophia Loren and Catherine Deneuve.  American writer James Baldwin lived there for 17 years until his death in 1987, as did British actor Donald Pleasence until his death in 1995.  Bill Wyman of the Rolling Stones has a home there.  Both Chagall and the Maeghts, the couple who founded the nearby Fondation Maeght, are buried in the town cemetery.

Near Saint Paul de Vence is one of the great attractions of the Riviera for art lovers, the Fondation Maeght, dedicated to modern and contemporary art.  A private museum, it has one of the most famous collections in the world.  It’s 1.50 kms out of town, around a 10 min. pleasant walk, or take a bus from the village, which takes around 8 – 9 mins. or so.  If you decide to walk, take the Chemin Sainte-Claire to the Fondation, and along the way you’ll see 3 chapels and the Convent of the Dominican Sisters, not to mention the magnificent views of the village.

Some of the biggest names in 20^th century European sculpture, including Georges Braque, Joan Miró and Alberto Giacometti, came together to help create La Fondation Maeght, which has become the country’s most important art foundation, and is among the world’s leading cultural institutions.  It was established by Aimé and Marguerite Maeght, a visionary couple who were publishers and art dealers, and who represented, and were friends with, some of the most important artist of the era, including Braque, Miró and Giacometti, Alexander Calder, Fernand Leger, Marc Chagall, and many others.

The Fondation was opened on 26 July 1964 by legendary Culture Minister André Malraux, a close friend of the Maeghts.  It was France’s first private art institution and was modelled on American institutions such as the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, the Barnes Collection and the Phillips Collection, which the couple had visited during their frequent trips to the US in the 1950s.

The Maeghts went to Josep Lluis Sert, the Spanish architect from Barcelona, who was one of the most celebrated architects of his era. He had worked in Paris for Le Corbusier for a year in 1930 and again from 1937 – 39, designing the Spanish Republic’s pavilion at the Paris Exposition of 1937. He called on his close artist friends, Pablo Picasso, Alexander Calder and fellow Catalan Joan Miró, for the artistic content of the building. Picasso’s contribution was ‘Guernica’—now at the Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid.

Sert’s design project for the Fondation Maeght in St Paul was more than an architect-client relationship, saying that they were partners in the discovery of modern art. Aimé Maeght had seen Sert’s vast and impressive studio he had designed for his friend Joan Miró, in Palma de Mallorca in the 1950s, and admired its sculpture-like architecture. He was convinced that the architect would be ideal for the creation of what was to be the first private foundation dedicated to the visual arts in Europe.

The Fondation’s collection includes works by many of the most important 20th century artists, including Jean Arp, Pierre Bonnard, Georges Braque, Alexander Calder, Marc Chagall, Sam Francis, Alberto Giacometti, Wassily Kandinsky, Ellsworth Kelly, Fernand Leger, Anne Madden and Joan Miró, among numerous others. The museum is now home to approx. 13,000 objects. It recently celebrated its 60th anniversary with a new expansion that added over 465 sq.m., without disturbing any of Sert’s original architecture.

The Fondation has an extensive reference library used by students, researchers, art historians and curators, as well as books produced by Aimé Maeght in collaboration with a number of the original artists whose work the Fondation displayed from its opening. There’s also a regular program of temporary exhibitions, dance events, concerts, films, workshops and theatrical performances.

We especially like the sculpture garden, which has a number of monumental works by Miro, Calder, Braque. Barbara Hepworth and others, that sit well in the landscape.  Also check out the courtyards, terraces and patios for many other works, such as the Miró Labyrinth, Braque pool, and the Giacometti Courtyard—and don’t forget to visit the shop, which has a great range of posters, reproductions, fashion and accessories, books, catalogues, stationery and gifts.  After all that, and before setting off for your next destination, you’ll need some refreshment.  In the shade of the Aleppo pines is the café-restaurant, Sous les Pins, which is also open for dinner during July and August, offering gourmet cuisine.  The restaurant is a branch of Les Agitateurs in Nice, which has a one star Michelin rating.  The Fondation is open every day from 10.00am.

From Fondation Maeght across to Vence is less than 6 kms., which takes around 12 mins. by car or by bus, but you need to walk to Cagnes-sur-Mer, to bus stop Les Fumerates, which takes around 9 mins. and then it’s an 8 min. bus ride to Vence.  From 1^st July to 30 Sept. there is a “Maeght-Matisse” navette (shuttle bus), which runs from Tuesday to Saturday, 5 times a day.  Its route is from the Fondation Maeght, to Saint-Paul de Vence, Grand Jardin, then across to the Matisse’s Chapelle du Rosaire in Vence.  Easy.

The village of Vence was originally a Roman town called Vintium, of which some vestiges and inscriptions still exist, an important bishopric from 439 up to the French Revolution, and the fiefdom of the Villeneuve family in the Middle Ages.  It is surrounded by its 13^th century walls, and within the walls you will see numerous monuments and buildings, including medieval houses, that have been well preserved.  Five entry gates still remain, 2 from the 13^th century, 2 from the 15^th century, and one from the 18^th century.  This last one was built so that the bishop of Vence, Monseigneur Pisani de la Gaude, could arrive directly at his palace’s door without having to get out of his carriage.

There are around 20 fountains, one of which, the Fontaine du Peyra, is a classified historic monument.  Every year, during the month of May, the fountains are honoured with floral decorations and a musical parade as part of the “Fête des Fontaines.”  The historic centre, with its narrow streets, its medieval and Renaissance houses, and various squares, has not changed over the centuries.  In the middle stands the very pretty Romanesque cathedral dating from the 11^th century, and the Saint Accolade Tower, built in the 12^th century.

The cathedral houses the marble sarcophagus of St Veran, the bishop of Vence dating from the 6^th century and which serves as the altar.  You can also admire a beautiful 16^th century altarpiece, copper busts, an ensemble of statues in coloured timbers, and a mosaic by Marc Chagall.  Today, Vence is relatively small, compared to the more famous Saint Paul de Vence, and has retained the charm of a Provençal village.

There are daily markets at Place du Grand Jardin selling fresh, local produce with a range that varies from fresh fruit and vegetables to pastries, local honey, and beautiful flowers. On Tuesdays at Place Marechal Juin the market there focuses on fashion and accessories, such as beach bags and cotton scarves, in typical Provencal prints and warm, Mediterranean colours. Wednesday is the day for antiques, brocantes, and 2nd hand books. On Fridays you can visit both Place du Grand Jardin and Place Marechal Juin for a clothing, accessories and food, and Saturday is food market day, with organic and locally produced products.

However, the main reason most people visit Vence is the Chapelle du Rosaire. From 1948 to 1951, Matisse drew the plans of the building and all the details of the decoration: stained glass ceramics, stalls and religious iconography. For first-time visitors, it sometimes comes as a surprise to see how small, and some think, unprepossessing, but many more see also how elegantly simple the Chapel is.

It’s an interesting story how the whole project came about. In 1941, Matisse, who lived most of the year in Nice, develop cancer and underwent surgery. During his long recovery, he was particularly helped by a young part-time nurse Monique Bourgeois, who had answered his advertisement seeking “a young and pretty nurse.” Matisse asked her to pose for him, which she did for several drawings and paintings. In 1943, Monique entered the Dominican convent in Vence, and became Sister Jacques-Marie. Matisse eventually bought a house at Vence, not far from the convent and moved there from Nice in 1943 to escape the threat of wartime bombardment. Sister Jacques-Marie visited him and told him of the plans the Dominicans had to build a chapel beside the girls’ high school which they operated in Venice. She asked Matisse if he would help with the design of the chapel, which he readily agreed to do.

Helped by Father Marie-Alain Couturier in close collaboration with architect August Perret and master glazier Paul Bony, Matisse started working on the project at the age of 77. He spent more than 4 years working on the chapel, its architecture, stained-glass windows, interior murals and ceramics, liturgical furnishings and the priests’ vestments. Matisse and Sister Jacques-Marie remained lifelong friends.

The chapel is built on a hillside and is entered by descending a flight of stairs.  The building is an L shape, 15m long x 6m wide.  The shorter section was for the nuns who lived and taught at the school, while the longer, larger segment is for the students and townspeople.  The altar is situated in the centre of the space and facing the two naves.

The white walls, floor and the ceiling contrast with the stained glass windows, which each day allow the daylight to penetrate through.  The stained glass windows are composed of 3 colours:  yellow (the light of the sun and of God), green (nature) and blue (the Mediterranean sky).  Three large paintings, engraved on white ceramic, decorate the walls of the chapel.  Only the reflection of the stained glass windows project colour on the 3 compositions on the walls: Saint Dominique, The Virgin Mary and Child, and the Stations of the Cross.

A gallery, exhibiting the initial plans of the chapel, as well as the chasubles designed by Matisse, is open in the north wing of the chapel of the Rosaire.  The Chapel is open to the public Monday – Thursday, and Saturday.  It’s closed on Friday and Sunday, although visitors are welcome to attend Mass on Sundays at 10.00am.  Check though with the Nice Tourist Office that this information is still correct.

“This work has taken me four years of exclusive and diligent work, and it is the result of my entire working life.  Despite all its imperfections, I consider it to be my masterpiece.”  Henri Matisse.

“I started with the secular, and now in the evening of my life, I naturally end with the divine.”  Henri Matisse.

There are so many wonderful attractions along the Riviera, and using Nice as a base for a few days, it’s easy to explore many of them.  Those here are just a couple of examples.

There are so many great attractions to explore along the Riviera, and we’ve looked at just a few of these in the last couple of blog stories.  The department of the Alpes-Maritimes is characterised by a profusion of artistic and cultural institutions—there are said to be more than 62 museums and foundations which bear witness to the attraction for so many artists during the 20^th century to the light and environment of the Côte d’Azur.  Here we’ll look at a couple more outstanding art museums and sights that can be easily done as day trips from Nice.  We love to visit these when we can while in the neighbourhood, as they offer art works we enjoy in this beautiful environment.  Even getting to these is a visual delight, either along the coast or up into the hills, where you can see hilltops crowned with villages and beautiful villas.

At Cagnes-sur-Mer, a little over 13 kms from Nice heading towards Cannes, is the house museum of one of the country’s most beloved artists, Auguste Renoir.  The painter discovered Cagnes-sur-Mer in 1903 on his way to Italy.  In 1907 he bought the Domaine des Collettes, a large property of several hectares, with beautiful gardens composed of centuries-old olive trees plus a grove of orange trees, typical Mediterranean plants and an uninterrupted view of the sea.

As the existing small farmhouse wasn’t suitable for the artist and his family, he built a large neo-Provençal style house which also had two artist’s studios.  Surrounded by his family, consisting of his wife Aline and his 3 children Claude, Jean and Pierre, he never left the Riviera.  He painted and sculpted there for 11 years until his death on 03 December 1919 at the age of 78.  During his life there, the villa became a lively place of intellectual, artistic, cultural and social life, where he received friends such as other great artists of his day including Henri Matisse, Claude Monet, Auguste Rodin, Amedeo Modigliani and Pablo Picasso, to name a few.

On his death, the property was left to Renoir’s son Claude, who lived there until 1960.  It was also the location of a movie, ‘Picnic on the Grass’, a film directed by his son Jean.  In 1960, the town of Cagnes-sur-Mer bought the property in order to establish a museum, where today visitors can discover the living environment that was home to the artist for some of the most productive and happy years of his life.  It was here that he approached sculpture for the first time, although he became increasingly frail with severe rheumatoid arthritis that badly affected his hands, necessitating the help of an assistant for various tasks.  However, Renoir never stopped painting.  Rather than slowing him down, under the threat of total paralysis, he redoubled his activity and painted frenetically until his last day.  The house has many personal mementos, and the park and gardens have exhibition spaces and sculptures, in a haven of peace and calm.

The house itself has 15 paintings that retrace the major themes beloved by Renoir, such as ‘The Bathers’ and ‘The Caryatids’ which represent the nude figure, ‘Coco Lisant’ and ‘Madame Pichon’ show the painter’s great talent for portraiture, while the paintings ‘La Ferme’, ‘Paysage aux Collettes’ and ‘La Vallée de la Cagne’ and ‘Le Baou de Saint Jeannet’ show the inspiration that the French Riviera provided for the artist’s landscapes.  Visitors can admire such works as the bronzes of two portraits of Claude, or the bust of Aline destined for his wife’s grave.  Various nudes are also presented, such as the ‘Judgement of Paris’ and ‘Venus Victrix’.

Note that the museum is closed on Tuesdays.  To get there by bus from Nice, take the no. 620, 622 or 650, which depart from Parc Phoenix, the ride taking around 30 mins.  Get off at the Gare Routiere (bus station), which is right across from the railway station, or take the train from Nice.  From here during the summer there’s  free shuttle from the bus station every 45 mins., otherwise, take bus no. 49 which takes you right to the museum.  Check additional info. at the Nice Tourist Office.

If, like us, you’re a fan of the works of Fernand Léger, the museum devoted to his works on the Riviera is a must-see.  It’s located in Biot, a little under 20 kms from the heart of Nice, heading towards Antibes.  The easiest way to get there from Nice is by train to Biot station, then the so-called Envibus no. 10 or no. 21  to the stop ‘Musée Fernand Léger’.  The bus stop is about 5 mins. from the train station.  The museum is closed on Tuesdays.

This is the only museum in the world dedicated to the works of this major 20^th century artist, who lived and worked in Biot.  A few months before his death in 1955, Léger bought a villa, the Mas Saint Andre, located at the foot of the village of Biot on unused agricultural land.  His widow, Nadia and Georges Bauquier, his great friend and collaborator, decided to create a museum to pay homage to him and promote knowledge of his work.

The museum was opened in May 1960, and was donated to the State in 1969 and included the building, the garden and nearly 350 works representative of the artist’s career.  Léger was influenced by the neo-impressionist movement at the turn of the 20^th century before discovering Cezanne and then the Cubists from 1907.  From 1913, his theory of the contrast of forms and colours was embodied in a powerful aesthetic, contemporary to his times.  It became a national museum, and in 1987, it was enlarged with a new wing that doubled its exhibition area.  The building is notable for its monumental decoration of 400 m2 of glass mosaic tiles laid by well-known artists of the day, who took the design motifs from an unfinished project by Léger for a stadium in Hanover.  In the entrance hall, the monumental stained glass window of 9 m2 was also taken from a drawing by Léger, and made by master glassmakers in Lausanne.

The museum underwent a renovation in 2004, resulting in the opening of the west façade with a bay window, which restored transparency to the entrance hall and revealing a view of the park with its Mediterranean plants.  The garden is a very pleasant, shaded parkland and offers multiple viewpoints to admire the mosaics that cover the façades of the building.  Note that the museum is closed on Tuesdays.

Further along the coast in the direction of Cannes is Antibes where you’ll find the incredible Picasso Museum in the Old Town right on the sea front, in the beautiful Château Grimaldi.  This was built upon the foundations of the ancient Greek town of Antipolis, which became a Roman castrum and later, a Medieval bishopric.  It was then owned until 1608 by the Grimaldi family, giving the Château its name, and from 1792 during the Revolution it was seized and turned into the local Hotel de Ville until the Bourbon Restoration when it was transformed into a barracks in 1820, before finally being taken over by military engineers until 1924.

In 1946 Picasso spent a very happy year in Antibes using the 2^nd floor of the château as his workshop, and at the end of that year gave several important works to the city, including 44 drawings and 23 paintings, among them some of his most famous works.  During this time, Picasso worked with a reduced palette of only 12 colours, using only the paint he could buy at the local hardware store—the same paint that the fishermen used for their boats!

September 1947 saw the official inauguration of the Picasso room on the 1^st floor, accompanied by a first hanging of the Antibes works.  A year later an exhibition confirmed the addition of 78 important ceramics made at the Madoura workshop in nearby Vallauris.  In September 1949, on the occasion of the inauguration of the ‘French Tapestries’ exhibition, new rooms dedicated to Picasso’s paintings, ceramics and drawings were opened to the public.  In December 1966, the city of Antibes once again paid tribute to Pablo Picasso:  the Château Grimaldi officially became the Picasso Museum, the first in the world to be dedicated to the artist.  Finally, in 1991, the Jacqueline Picasso donation further enriched the Picasso collection.

A number of other artists’ works are on display in the Picasso Museum, including Nicolas de Stael, Modigliani, Picabia and Calder, as well as sculptures by Germaine Richier, Joan Miro and others.  The Regional Acquisition Fund for Museums and the Association of Friends of the Picasso Museum actively raise funds to acquire other artists’ works such as Jaume Plensa’s 10m high ‘Nomade’, installed on the Museum’s terrace in 2010

Getting there from Nice is easy.  Just take the train from Nice Ville and alight at Gare d’Antibes, which takes around 25 – 30 mins.  The station is about 1 km from the Museum, which you can easily walk, or take a local bus to Porte Marine.  There is a bus from Nice, the no. 200 or 620, but it is very slow, taking well over an hour.  Ask the Nice Tourist Office for details.  Note:  the Museum is closed on Mondays.

Antibes is famous for its thriving superyacht port, Port Vauban.  With around 1,500 berths, it’s the largest marina in Europe.  The Billionaires Quay is one of the rare quays where yachts larger than 100m can moor.  On a small peninsula you can see the majestic 16^th century Fort Carré looming 26m above the sea.  Port Vauban separates Fort Carré from Old Antibes.

Antibes itself is well worth exploring.  Surrounded by its ramparts built by Vauban in 1698, Old Antibes is especially fascinating.  From Porte Marine, take the Rampe des Saleurs and head off in almost any direction to wander through the alleys, observing the hidden details on the façades and doors, the scent of flowers, enjoy a drink in a sun-soaked footpath café, or cool off with a locally made ice-cream.  In due course, you’ll reach the Cathedral de Notre Dame de Platea and the steps of the Château Grimaldi.  If you’ve not done so already, head up the stairs and take in the view from the top.

Not far from the Picasso Museum in Cours Massena the Marché Provençal takes place every morning (except Mondays during winter).  Regarded as one of the best in the region, this covered market offers a wonderful and diverse range of local produce, including spices (I always buy a couple of things here), cheeses, flowers, fruit and vegetables, olive oils, jams, and locally made charcuterie.

Antibes also has a Foire (flea) market in various locations scattered around, as well as a Brocante (2^nd hand) market also in various locations, depending on the day of the week.  There’s also an Artisan crafts market, held in the covered market in Cours Massena during summer in the afternoons from 3.00pm, when the produce market has finished for the day.

Antibes is famous for its thriving superyacht port, Port Vauban.  With around 1,500 berths, it’s the largest marina in Europe,  the Billionaires Quay.   Port Vauban separates Fort Carré from Old Antibes.

The Riviera has such a lot to offer the visitor, aside from the expected glamour hot-spots, and from Nice it’s easy to reach many of the great sights by the excellent public transport if you don’t have a car.  We prefer not to be there in the height of summer, as it’s not just the heat, but the crowds that can make exploring something of a challenge.  Choose your timing, and you’re sure to want to return and see more of the attractions that one visit simply can’t take in!