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Author: Cheryl Brooks

A FABULOUS DAY TRIP FROM NICE – THE FONDATION MAEGHT, ST PAUL DE VENCE AND VENCE

The perched, medieval village of Saint Paul de Vence. Photo, Alamy

One of the most famous perched villages on the Riviera is St Paul de Vence.  It’s within easy reach of Nice for a lovely day out, and what’s more, it’s very near the location of one of the most outstanding art museums in France, the Fondation Maeght.  Not far from the Fondation Maeght is the village of Vence (not to be confused with St Paul de Vence!), in the hinterland of Nice, in the direction of Grasse.  This village is famous for being the location of the Chapelle du Rosaire (Chapel of the Rosary), decorated by Henri Matisse, and recognised as one of his most outstanding masterpieces.  Aside from the many enticing attractions in this part of the Riviera, the dramatic landscape alone is described by many as the highlight of their Riviera trip.

 

The village of Saint Paul de Vence.

If a visitor to the Côte d’Azur knows the name of only one village in that region, it would likely be Saint Paul de Vence, one of the oldest medieval towns on the Riviera.  This beautiful, perched village is about 20 kms from Nice.  As well as driving, you can also catch the train from Nice Ville to Cagnes-sur-Mer and then a bus from there up to Le Taude bus stop in Saint Paul, all of which takes a little over 45 mins.  Alternatively, a Lignes d’Azur bus goes from Albert 1er Verdun stop in Nice to the airport and change there for another bus to Le Taude stop at Saint Paul.  This takes around an hour or so.  There’s also a tram that you can take from Jean Medecin stop in Nice to Grand Arenas Nice stop and change there for a bus up to Le Taude, Saint Paul.  Sounds complicated, but it’s actually quite simple. The public transport system is also very economical, and whichever you choose, it’ll cost from AUD$ 5 – $10, max.  All the modes of transport are very accustomed to visitors heading up to Saint Paul, so don’t hesitate to ask anyone, as well, of course, the Nice Tourist Office.  There’s also a Tourism Information Office at 2, rue Grande in Saint Paul.  Up until 2011 Saint Paul de Vence was officially known simply as Saint-Paul, and is usually still called that by locals and regular visitors to the area.

The village of Saint Paul de Vence is still surrounded by its medieval walls.

The medieval village is perched on top of a small elliptical hill surrounded by a high wall built in 1538 by Francois l Valois, King of France, who was on the throne from 1515 to 1547.  In the 2nd half of the 19th century, the village’s inhabitants had to buy the surrounding walls to protect them from destruction.

The upper reaches of St Paul de Vence

There’s a wonderful panoramic view of the whole area, and as the village lies just a few kilometres from the sea, you can see the coast between Cagnes-sur-Mer and Antibes, while to the north-west, you can see the snow-capped peaks of the Alpes Maritimes.  Given its location, it was an obvious location for erecting a fortress during the Middle Ages.  Many of the buildings of the village date back to those times as well as the 16th and 17th centuries.

There are many great shopping opportunities in Saint Paul de Vence

The village itself is not so famous for its countless tourist attractions, as simply a great destination in itself.  Stroll along the main street, rue Grande, which leads from the entrance at the north gate (Porte de Vence) to the end of the village, where the cemetery is located just behind the southern gate.  Along the way, you’ll pass charming little galleries, shops, restaurants and many art studios.  One of the most photographed attractions is the impressive fountain in Place de la Grande Fontaine, which dates back to the Middle Ages.

La Chapelle des Penitents Blancs, decorated by Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon.

At the highest point in the village there was once a château, but unfortunately, today only a small building is left in which the Hotel de Ville is located. Right next to it stands a church from the 14th century which was raised to collegiate status (Collégiale de la Conversion-de-Saint-Paul) in the 17th century. Nearby is the former Chapelle des Penitents Blancs (Chapel of the White Penitents) from the 17th century, which was restored and decorated at the beginning of the 21st century by the Belgian artist, Jean-Michel Folon. The Chapelle now carries his name.  Entry is about 4€.

Artist Marc Chagall at home in St Paul de Vence, c.1966.

Saint Paul has long been a mecca for artists who have been coming here since the 1920s, among them Picasso, Chagall, Dufy and Matisse. Chagall lived in Saint Paul for 19 years and is buried in the local cemetery. The village is well-known today for its modern and contemporary art museums and galleries, such as the outstanding Fondation Maeght nearby, and for the 17th century Saint Charles-Saint Claude chapel, which was decorated with murals by French artist Paul Conte in 2012-13.

Alexander Calder installed one of his mobiles beside the pool of Hotel La Colombe d’Or.

For decades, the village has been a haven for the famous, mostly due to the hotel located in front of the walls, La Colombe d’Or, whose former guests included Jean-Paul Sartre and Pablo Picasso.  During the 1960s, the village was frequented by French actors Yves Montand, Simone Signoret and Lino Ventura, as well as poet Jacques Prévert.  Other famous faces that regularly visited St Paul included Greta Garbo, Sophia Loren and Catherine Deneuve.  American writer James Baldwin lived there for 17 years until his death in 1987, as did British actor Donald Pleasence until his death in 1995.  Bill Wyman of the Rolling Stones has a home there.  Both Chagall and the Maeghts, the couple who founded the nearby Fondation Maeght, are buried in the town cemetery.

Giacometti sculptures in the garden at Fondation Maeght

Near Saint Paul de Vence is one of the great attractions of the Riviera for art lovers, the Fondation Maeght, dedicated to modern and contemporary art.  A private museum, it has one of the most famous collections in the world.  It’s 1.50 kms out of town, around a 10 min. pleasant walk, or take a bus from the village, which takes around 8 – 9 mins. or so.  If you decide to walk, take the Chemin Sainte-Claire to the Fondation, and along the way you’ll see 3 chapels and the Convent of the Dominican Sisters, not to mention the magnificent views of the village.

Paintings by Miro and a Calder mobile at Fondation Maeght

Some of the biggest names in 20th century European sculpture, including Georges Braque, Joan Miró and Alberto Giacometti, came together to help create La Fondation Maeght, which has become the country’s most important art foundation, and is among the world’s leading cultural institutions.  It was established by Aimé and Marguerite Maeght, a visionary couple who were publishers and art dealers, and who represented, and were friends with, some of the most important artist of the era, including Braque, Miró and Giacometti, Alexander Calder, Fernand Leger, Marc Chagall, and many others.

Giacometti sculptures on display in the Fondation Maeght.

The Fondation was opened on 26 July 1964 by legendary Culture Minister André Malraux, a close friend of the Maeghts.  It was France’s first private art institution and was modelled on American institutions such as the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, the Barnes Collection and the Phillips Collection, which the couple had visited during their frequent trips to the US in the 1950s.

The Maeghts went to Josep Lluis Sert, the Spanish architect from Barcelona, who was one of the most celebrated architects of his era. He had worked in Paris for Le Corbusier for a year in 1930 and again from 1937 – 39, designing the Spanish Republic’s pavilion at the Paris Exposition of 1937. He called on his close artist friends, Pablo Picasso, Alexander Calder and fellow Catalan Joan Miró, for the artistic content of the building. Picasso’s contribution was ‘Guernica’—now at the Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid.

Fondation Maeght, designed by Josep Lluis Sert.

Sert’s design project for the Fondation Maeght in St Paul was more than an architect-client relationship, saying that they were partners in the discovery of modern art. Aimé Maeght had seen Sert’s vast and impressive studio he had designed for his friend Joan Miró, in Palma de Mallorca in the 1950s, and admired its sculpture-like architecture. He was convinced that the architect would be ideal for the creation of what was to be the first private foundation dedicated to the visual arts in Europe.

Ornamental pool designed by Georges Braque for the Fondation Maeght

The Fondation’s collection includes works by many of the most important 20th century artists, including Jean Arp, Pierre Bonnard, Georges Braque, Alexander Calder, Marc Chagall, Sam Francis, Alberto Giacometti, Wassily Kandinsky, Ellsworth Kelly, Fernand Leger, Anne Madden and Joan Miró, among numerous others. The museum is now home to approx. 13,000 objects. It recently celebrated its 60th anniversary with a new expansion that added over 465 sq.m., without disturbing any of Sert’s original architecture.

Marc Chagall’s ‘La Vie’ on display in Fondation Maeght

The Fondation has an extensive reference library used by students, researchers, art historians and curators, as well as books produced by Aimé Maeght in collaboration with a number of the original artists whose work the Fondation displayed from its opening. There’s also a regular program of temporary exhibitions, dance events, concerts, films, workshops and theatrical performances.

A sculpture by Joan Miro in the garden of the Fondation Maeght

We especially like the sculpture garden, which has a number of monumental works by Miro, Calder, Braque. Barbara Hepworth and others, that sit well in the landscape.  Also check out the courtyards, terraces and patios for many other works, such as the Miró Labyrinth, Braque pool, and the Giacometti Courtyard—and don’t forget to visit the shop, which has a great range of posters, reproductions, fashion and accessories, books, catalogues, stationery and gifts.  After all that, and before setting off for your next destination, you’ll need some refreshment.  In the shade of the Aleppo pines is the café-restaurant, Sous les Pins, which is also open for dinner during July and August, offering gourmet cuisine.  The restaurant is a branch of Les Agitateurs in Nice, which has a one star Michelin rating.  The Fondation is open every day from 10.00am.

A Miro sculpture at the Fondation Maeght

From Fondation Maeght across to Vence is less than 6 kms., which takes around 12 mins. by car or by bus, but you need to walk to Cagnes-sur-Mer, to bus stop Les Fumerates, which takes around 9 mins. and then it’s an 8 min. bus ride to Vence.  From 1st July to 30 Sept. there is a “Maeght-Matisse” navette (shuttle bus), which runs from Tuesday to Saturday, 5 times a day.  Its route is from the Fondation Maeght, to Saint-Paul de Vence, Grand Jardin, then across to the Matisse’s Chapelle du Rosaire in Vence.  Easy.

The village of Vence with the Mediterranean in the distance.

The village of Vence was originally a Roman town called Vintium, of which some vestiges and inscriptions still exist, an important bishopric from 439 up to the French Revolution, and the fiefdom of the Villeneuve family in the Middle Ages.  It is surrounded by its 13th century walls, and within the walls you will see numerous monuments and buildings, including medieval houses, that have been well preserved.  Five entry gates still remain, 2 from the 13th century, 2 from the 15th century, and one from the 18th century.  This last one was built so that the bishop of Vence, Monseigneur Pisani de la Gaude, could arrive directly at his palace’s door without having to get out of his carriage.

La Fontaine du Peyra in the medieval village of Vence, decorated for the “Fete des Fontaines”.

There are around 20 fountains, one of which, the Fontaine du Peyra, is a classified historic monument.  Every year, during the month of May, the fountains are honoured with floral decorations and a musical parade as part of the “Fête des Fontaines.”  The historic centre, with its narrow streets, its medieval and Renaissance houses, and various squares, has not changed over the centuries.  In the middle stands the very pretty Romanesque cathedral dating from the 11th century, and the Saint Accolade Tower, built in the 12th century.

The cathedral in Vence.

The cathedral houses the marble sarcophagus of St Veran, the bishop of Vence dating from the 6th century and which serves as the altar.  You can also admire a beautiful 16th century altarpiece, copper busts, an ensemble of statues in coloured timbers, and a mosaic by Marc Chagall.  Today, Vence is relatively small, compared to the more famous Saint Paul de Vence, and has retained the charm of a Provençal village.

Clothing, accessories and table linen in traditional Provencal prints at a weekly market in Vence.

There are daily markets at Place du Grand Jardin selling fresh, local produce with a range that varies from fresh fruit and vegetables to pastries, local honey, and beautiful flowers. On Tuesdays at Place Marechal Juin the market there focuses on fashion and accessories, such as beach bags and cotton scarves, in typical Provencal prints and warm, Mediterranean colours. Wednesday is the day for antiques, brocantes, and 2nd hand books. On Fridays you can visit both Place du Grand Jardin and Place Marechal Juin for a clothing, accessories and food, and Saturday is food market day, with organic and locally produced products.

La Chapelle du Rosaire, Vence

However, the main reason most people visit Vence is the Chapelle du Rosaire. From 1948 to 1951, Matisse drew the plans of the building and all the details of the decoration: stained glass ceramics, stalls and religious iconography. For first-time visitors, it sometimes comes as a surprise to see how small, and some think, unprepossessing, but many more see also how elegantly simple the Chapel is.

Matisse and his friend Sister Jacques-Marie in Vence just before his death in 1954.

It’s an interesting story how the whole project came about. In 1941, Matisse, who lived most of the year in Nice, develop cancer and underwent surgery. During his long recovery, he was particularly helped by a young part-time nurse Monique Bourgeois, who had answered his advertisement seeking “a young and pretty nurse.” Matisse asked her to pose for him, which she did for several drawings and paintings. In 1943, Monique entered the Dominican convent in Vence, and became Sister Jacques-Marie. Matisse eventually bought a house at Vence, not far from the convent and moved there from Nice in 1943 to escape the threat of wartime bombardment. Sister Jacques-Marie visited him and told him of the plans the Dominicans had to build a chapel beside the girls’ high school which they operated in Venice. She asked Matisse if he would help with the design of the chapel, which he readily agreed to do.

The vestments designed by Matisse for the clergy of La Chapelle du Rosaire.

Helped by Father Marie-Alain Couturier in close collaboration with architect August Perret and master glazier Paul Bony, Matisse started working on the project at the age of 77. He spent more than 4 years working on the chapel, its architecture, stained-glass windows, interior murals and ceramics, liturgical furnishings and the priests’ vestments. Matisse and Sister Jacques-Marie remained lifelong friends.

The unassuming entrance into La Chapelle du Rosaire.

The chapel is built on a hillside and is entered by descending a flight of stairs.  The building is an L shape, 15m long x 6m wide.  The shorter section was for the nuns who lived and taught at the school, while the longer, larger segment is for the students and townspeople.  The altar is situated in the centre of the space and facing the two naves.

The altar of La Chapelle du Rosaire

The white walls, floor and the ceiling contrast with the stained glass windows, which each day allow the daylight to penetrate through.  The stained glass windows are composed of 3 colours:  yellow (the light of the sun and of God), green (nature) and blue (the Mediterranean sky).  Three large paintings, engraved on white ceramic, decorate the walls of the chapel.  Only the reflection of the stained glass windows project colour on the 3 compositions on the walls: Saint Dominique, The Virgin Mary and Child, and the Stations of the Cross.

Chapelle du Rosaire, with St Dominique & Virgin and Child on the walls.

A gallery, exhibiting the initial plans of the chapel, as well as the chasubles designed by Matisse, is open in the north wing of the chapel of the Rosaire.  The Chapel is open to the public Monday – Thursday, and Saturday.  It’s closed on Friday and Sunday, although visitors are welcome to attend Mass on Sundays at 10.00am.  Check though with the Nice Tourist Office that this information is still correct.

The dazzling stained glass windows of Chapelle du Rosaire, Vence

“This work has taken me four years of exclusive and diligent work, and it is the result of my entire working life.  Despite all its imperfections, I consider it to be my masterpiece.”  Henri Matisse.

Henri Matisse in the Chapelle du Rosair, shortly before its completion.

“I started with the secular, and now in the evening of my life, I naturally end with the divine.”  Henri Matisse.

There are so many wonderful attractions along the Riviera, and using Nice as a base for a few days, it’s easy to explore many of them.  Those here are just a couple of examples.

The Chapelle du Rosaire in Vence, designed and decorated by Matisse. Photo, Alamy

 

 

 

 

 

 

DISCOVER MORE GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS NEAR NICE

View from the coast of Antibes Old Town. Photo, Shutterstock

There are so many great attractions to explore along the Riviera, and we’ve looked at just a few of these in the last couple of blog stories.  The department of the Alpes-Maritimes is characterised by a profusion of artistic and cultural institutions—there are said to be more than 62 museums and foundations which bear witness to the attraction for so many artists during the 20th century to the light and environment of the Côte d’Azur.  Here we’ll look at a couple more outstanding art museums and sights that can be easily done as day trips from Nice.  We love to visit these when we can while in the neighbourhood, as they offer art works we enjoy in this beautiful environment.  Even getting to these is a visual delight, either along the coast or up into the hills, where you can see hilltops crowned with villages and beautiful villas.

Renoir’s home at Cagnes-sur-Mer

At Cagnes-sur-Mer, a little over 13 kms from Nice heading towards Cannes, is the house museum of one of the country’s most beloved artists, Auguste Renoir.  The painter discovered Cagnes-sur-Mer in 1903 on his way to Italy.  In 1907 he bought the Domaine des Collettes, a large property of several hectares, with beautiful gardens composed of centuries-old olive trees plus a grove of orange trees, typical Mediterranean plants and an uninterrupted view of the sea.

The garden at Renoir’s home in Cagnes-sur-Mer

As the existing small farmhouse wasn’t suitable for the artist and his family, he built a large neo-Provençal style house which also had two artist’s studios.  Surrounded by his family, consisting of his wife Aline and his 3 children Claude, Jean and Pierre, he never left the Riviera.  He painted and sculpted there for 11 years until his death on 03 December 1919 at the age of 78.  During his life there, the villa became a lively place of intellectual, artistic, cultural and social life, where he received friends such as other great artists of his day including Henri Matisse, Claude Monet, Auguste Rodin, Amedeo Modigliani and Pablo Picasso, to name a few.

Renoir’s easel, palette and paint box, and the wheelchair he needed as he became increasingly frail

On his death, the property was left to Renoir’s son Claude, who lived there until 1960.  It was also the location of a movie, ‘Picnic on the Grass’, a film directed by his son Jean.  In 1960, the town of Cagnes-sur-Mer bought the property in order to establish a museum, where today visitors can discover the living environment that was home to the artist for some of the most productive and happy years of his life.  It was here that he approached sculpture for the first time, although he became increasingly frail with severe rheumatoid arthritis that badly affected his hands, necessitating the help of an assistant for various tasks.  However, Renoir never stopped painting.  Rather than slowing him down, under the threat of total paralysis, he redoubled his activity and painted frenetically until his last day.  The house has many personal mementos, and the park and gardens have exhibition spaces and sculptures, in a haven of peace and calm.

‘The Bathers’ by Renoir is on display in th Museum.

The house itself has 15 paintings that retrace the major themes beloved by Renoir, such as ‘The Bathers’ and ‘The Caryatids’ which represent the nude figure, ‘Coco Lisant’ and ‘Madame Pichon’ show the painter’s great talent for portraiture, while the paintings ‘La Ferme’, ‘Paysage aux Collettes’ and ‘La Vallée de la Cagne’ and ‘Le Baou de Saint Jeannet’ show the inspiration that the French Riviera provided for the artist’s landscapes.  Visitors can admire such works as the bronzes of two portraits of Claude, or the bust of Aline destined for his wife’s grave.  Various nudes are also presented, such as the ‘Judgement of Paris’ and ‘Venus Victrix’.

‘La Ferme de Collettes’on display in the Renoir Museum

Note that the museum is closed on Tuesdays.  To get there by bus from Nice, take the no. 620, 622 or 650, which depart from Parc Phoenix, the ride taking around 30 mins.  Get off at the Gare Routiere (bus station), which is right across from the railway station, or take the train from Nice.  From here during the summer there’s  free shuttle from the bus station every 45 mins., otherwise, take bus no. 49 which takes you right to the museum.  Check additional info. at the Nice Tourist Office.

The National Museum Fernand Leger, at Biot

If, like us, you’re a fan of the works of Fernand Léger, the museum devoted to his works on the Riviera is a must-see.  It’s located in Biot, a little under 20 kms from the heart of Nice, heading towards Antibes.  The easiest way to get there from Nice is by train to Biot station, then the so-called Envibus no. 10 or no. 21  to the stop ‘Musée Fernand Léger’.  The bus stop is about 5 mins. from the train station.  The museum is closed on Tuesdays.

Some of Leger’s works in the mseum.

This is the only museum in the world dedicated to the works of this major 20th century artist, who lived and worked in Biot.  A few months before his death in 1955, Léger bought a villa, the Mas Saint Andre, located at the foot of the village of Biot on unused agricultural land.  His widow, Nadia and Georges Bauquier, his great friend and collaborator, decided to create a museum to pay homage to him and promote knowledge of his work.

The stairwell in the museum is ideal for displaying some of Leger’s large works

The museum was opened in May 1960, and was donated to the State in 1969 and included the building, the garden and nearly 350 works representative of the artist’s career.  Léger was influenced by the neo-impressionist movement at the turn of the 20th century before discovering Cezanne and then the Cubists from 1907.  From 1913, his theory of the contrast of forms and colours was embodied in a powerful aesthetic, contemporary to his times.  It became a national museum, and in 1987, it was enlarged with a new wing that doubled its exhibition area.  The building is notable for its monumental decoration of 400 m2 of glass mosaic tiles laid by well-known artists of the day, who took the design motifs from an unfinished project by Léger for a stadium in Hanover.  In the entrance hall, the monumental stained glass window of 9 m2 was also taken from a drawing by Léger, and made by master glassmakers in Lausanne.

One of Leger’s sculptures in the museum’s garden

The museum underwent a renovation in 2004, resulting in the opening of the west façade with a bay window, which restored transparency to the entrance hall and revealing a view of the park with its Mediterranean plants.  The garden is a very pleasant, shaded parkland and offers multiple viewpoints to admire the mosaics that cover the façades of the building.  Note that the museum is closed on Tuesdays.

The Musee Picasso, Antibes

Further along the coast in the direction of Cannes is Antibes where you’ll find the incredible Picasso Museum in the Old Town right on the sea front, in the beautiful Château Grimaldi.  This was built upon the foundations of the ancient Greek town of Antipolis, which became a Roman castrum and later, a Medieval bishopric.  It was then owned until 1608 by the Grimaldi family, giving the Château its name, and from 1792 during the Revolution it was seized and turned into the local Hotel de Ville until the Bourbon Restoration when it was transformed into a barracks in 1820, before finally being taken over by military engineers until 1924.

Picasso in his studio in the Chateau Grimaldi, Antibes

In 1946 Picasso spent a very happy year in Antibes using the 2nd floor of the château as his workshop, and at the end of that year gave several important works to the city, including 44 drawings and 23 paintings, among them some of his most famous works.  During this time, Picasso worked with a reduced palette of only 12 colours, using only the paint he could buy at the local hardware store—the same paint that the fishermen used for their boats!

Sculpture ‘Head of a Woman’, ceramics and ‘Ulysee et les Sirenes’ oil painting, in the Picasso Museum

September 1947 saw the official inauguration of the Picasso room on the 1st floor, accompanied by a first hanging of the Antibes works.  A year later an exhibition confirmed the addition of 78 important ceramics made at the Madoura workshop in nearby Vallauris.  In September 1949, on the occasion of the inauguration of the ‘French Tapestries’ exhibition, new rooms dedicated to Picasso’s paintings, ceramics and drawings were opened to the public.  In December 1966, the city of Antibes once again paid tribute to Pablo Picasso:  the Château Grimaldi officially became the Picasso Museum, the first in the world to be dedicated to the artist.  Finally, in 1991, the Jacqueline Picasso donation further enriched the Picasso collection.

‘Nomade’ by Jaume Plensa, installed on the terrace of the Picasso Museum

A number of other artists’ works are on display in the Picasso Museum, including Nicolas de Stael, Modigliani, Picabia and Calder, as well as sculptures by Germaine Richier, Joan Miro and others.  The Regional Acquisition Fund for Museums and the Association of Friends of the Picasso Museum actively raise funds to acquire other artists’ works such as Jaume Plensa’s 10m high ‘Nomade’, installed on the Museum’s terrace in 2010

Some of Picasso’s ceramics on display in the museum

Getting there from Nice is easy.  Just take the train from Nice Ville and alight at Gare d’Antibes, which takes around 25 – 30 mins.  The station is about 1 km from the Museum, which you can easily walk, or take a local bus to Porte Marine.  There is a bus from Nice, the no. 200 or 620, but it is very slow, taking well over an hour.  Ask the Nice Tourist Office for details.  Note:  the Museum is closed on Mondays.

Fort Carre, overlooking the bay at Antibes

Antibes is famous for its thriving superyacht port, Port Vauban.  With around 1,500 berths, it’s the largest marina in Europe.  The Billionaires Quay is one of the rare quays where yachts larger than 100m can moor.  On a small peninsula you can see the majestic 16th century Fort Carré looming 26m above the sea.  Port Vauban separates Fort Carré from Old Antibes.

The picturesque old town of Antibes

Antibes itself is well worth exploring.  Surrounded by its ramparts built by Vauban in 1698, Old Antibes is especially fascinating.  From Porte Marine, take the Rampe des Saleurs and head off in almost any direction to wander through the alleys, observing the hidden details on the façades and doors, the scent of flowers, enjoy a drink in a sun-soaked footpath café, or cool off with a locally made ice-cream.  In due course, you’ll reach the Cathedral de Notre Dame de Platea and the steps of the Château Grimaldi.  If you’ve not done so already, head up the stairs and take in the view from the top.

The covered Marche Provencal at Antibes has a great range of local products

Not far from the Picasso Museum in Cours Massena the Marché Provençal takes place every morning (except Mondays during winter).  Regarded as one of the best in the region, this covered market offers a wonderful and diverse range of local produce, including spices (I always buy a couple of things here), cheeses, flowers, fruit and vegetables, olive oils, jams, and locally made charcuterie.

There’s a wide range of Provencasl-style products in the Antibes markets

Antibes also has a Foire (flea) market in various locations scattered around, as well as a Brocante (2nd hand) market also in various locations, depending on the day of the week.  There’s also an Artisan crafts market, held in the covered market in Cours Massena during summer in the afternoons from 3.00pm, when the produce market has finished for the day.

Porr Vauban Antibes, filled with luxury yachts.

Antibes is famous for its thriving superyacht port, Port Vauban.  With around 1,500 berths, it’s the largest marina in Europe,  the Billionaires Quay.   Port Vauban separates Fort Carré from Old Antibes.

Chateau Grimaldi at Cagnes-sur-Mer

The Riviera has such a lot to offer the visitor, aside from the expected glamour hot-spots, and from Nice it’s easy to reach many of the great sights by the excellent public transport if you don’t have a car.  We prefer not to be there in the height of summer, as it’s not just the heat, but the crowds that can make exploring something of a challenge.  Choose your timing, and you’re sure to want to return and see more of the attractions that one visit simply can’t take in!

Evening reflections of Antibes coast and Old Town

 

 

 

 

SOME FAVOURITE MUSEUMS, GALLERIES AND SIGHTS IN AND AROUND NICE

The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild is in a stunning location overlooking the Mediterranean.

Nice has a wealth of sights and attractions, and we looked at some of them in the previous story.  The enormous number of museums, galleries and great attractions in Nice and its immediate vicinity showcase everything from art to archaeological artefacts to Provençal perched villages.  It’s a challenge to just restrict yourself to a few sights to take in during one visit, but that means there are plenty left on your list to draw you back for a future visit.  Whether you’re interested in arts and culture or history, you can find it all in and around Nice.  Even after many visits over some decades, we still discover new things to see.

 

 

Musee Matisse in Cimiez, Nice.

Probably the best-known art museum in Nice is the Musée Matisse.  This lovely museum has an extensive collection of paintings, drawings, sculptures and photographs of, and by, Henri Matisse.  The artist and his heirs donated many works to the museum, most of which were created when Matisse moved to Nice in 1917, and where he died in 1954.  It’s now home to 68 paintings and gouaches, more than 200 drawings, over 200 prints, 57 sculptures and about 100 photographs.  As well, there are around 200 personal objects of the artist, including ceramics, stained glass and documents.

Inside the Musee Matisse.

Although it’s not right in the heart of the city, the Musée Matisse is easy to get to.  The Nice bus network is terrific.  Bus no. 5, as well as a number of others, go up to Cimiez, the district where this museum is located, next to the Archaeological Museum of Nice-Cimiez (these shared the same building until 1989).  Note that the museum is also close to the beautiful Cimiez Monastery, where Matisse is buried.  The Museum is closed on Tuesdays.

The Musee National Marc Chagall, Nice

Not far from the Musée Matisse is the Musée National Marc Chagall, on Avenue du Docteur Menard.  Take the same no. 5 bus, and like numerous others such as the Musée Matisse, it’s closed on Tuesdays.  We’re huge fans of Chagall, and this museum bears witness to the great diversity of the painter’s works, including 12 paintings, and 105 engravings, their copperplates illustrating the biblical message from the books of the Old Testament series of 1966.

Marc Chagall’s works in the museum

The collection includes paintings, drawings, prints, sculptures, ceramics as well as stained glass, tapestries and mosaics, which constitute a unique body of work where Chagall’s technical virtuosity, colourful inventiveness, together with his universal message of peace, are combined.  The museum’s architect, André Hermant, had formerly worked with Le Corbusier, and was himself a member of the UAM, the French Union of Modern Artists.

Exhibits in the Museum of Modern & Contemporary Art (MAMAC) in Nice.

Located next to Place Garibaldi, just outside the Old Town, is the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MAMAC).  Inaugurated in 1990, this museum is a veritable treasure trove of art spanning from the 1950s to the present day, exploring areas such as European New Realism, the American expression of assemblage art, and Pop Art.  The collection has around 1,400 works by 370 artists. Such artists include Christo, Yves Klein, Baldaccini, Deschamps, among other notables.  The American Pop art collection includes works by Lichtenstein, Rosenquist and Andy Warhol.

The Museum of Modern & Contemporary Art is a landmark building in Nice

The building itself is quite a landmark, and some say it’s the most imposing and iconic work of art at MAMAC.  Designed by two architects, Yves Bayard and Henri Vidal, its monumental, distinctive shape, described as a tetrapod, straddles the course of the Paillon river, which now runs beneath the city’s main open plazas.  The architecture of the building was inspired by neo-classicism rules, and its façades are covered with smooth, white Carrara marble.  As well as their permanent collections, the museum often has very good temporary exhibitions, for example, from June until November 2024 the show is ‘Leger And The New Realism’.  Entry is free.

The former Villa Massena is now an art museum.

The Musée Masséna is located in a prestigious late 19th century mansion at 65 rue de France, just behind the Negresco Hotel on the Promenade des Anglais.  The villa was built by Victor Masséna, Prince of Essling and Duke of Rivoli in 1898.  It’s said that the villa’s design was inspired by the Villa Rothschild in Cannes, but also the large Italian neo-classical villas that were becoming quite numerous along the Riviera at that time.  It was transformed into an art museum in 1921 after Andre Masséna, Victor’s son, sold the villa to the city of Nice in 1919.  The museum retraces the cultural and artistic influence of the French Riviera, or Côte d’Azur, from the annexation of Nice to France until the Belle Epoque.

The dining room of the former Villa Massena, now a museum.

In a sumptuous setting, adorned with period furniture and decorative objects ranging from the Second Empire to the eve of WWl, it houses watercolours, oil paintings, engravings, sculpture, bronzes and posters.  Two historically interesting exhibits are the death mask of Napoleon made by his doctor, and Josephine’s golden tiara, set with pearls, coloured gemstones and mother-of-pearl.  Throughout your visit, you can explore the grand gallery, the library, dining room, grand salon and former reception rooms of the villa.  The villa has regular temporary exhibitions, so worth checking either online or at the Nice Tourist Office.

The Musee des Beaux-Arts-Jules-Cheret was once a sumptuous private villa.

Musée des Beaux-Arts Jules Chéret (Fine Arts Museum) is housed in an elegant Italian Renaissance-inspired villa at 33 Ave. des Baumettes, which is a couple of blocks to the west of the Negresco on bus no. 38, stop: Chéret Museum, or it’s a 4-5 min. walk from stop Universitaire Méditerranée on the direct tram line no. 2 that runs from the city to the airport —ask the Tourist Office to mark these for you on a map.

The Museum as a fine collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works.

It has a remarkable collection spanning the history of art from the 16th to 20th centuries.  In 1928 the museum occupied the former mansion built by a Ukrainian princess who was the wife of a private adviser to Tsar Alexander ll.  It was later purchased by James Thompson, a wealthy American entomologist.  Works include Impressionist and Post-Impressionist artists, Raoul Dufy (a great favourite of ours), Jules Chéret and Pierre Bonnard, among others.  Note that it’s closed on Mondays.

Evening at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.

A couple of our favourite art museums and galleries aren’t right in Nice itself, such as the Villa and Gardens Ephrussi de Rothschild and Villa Kérylos, both of which I mentioned in the last story.

The ground floor entrance hall of Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild is located at Saint-Jean-Cap Ferrat, between Nice and Monaco, overlooking the Mediterranean.  This magnificent, grand villa is surrounded by nine themed gardens: French, Spanish, Florentine, Japanese, a stone garden, an exotic garden, a rose garden and a Provençal garden.  The villa and gardens were created by Baroness Béatrice Ephrussi, who was born a Rothschild and had married Maurice Ephrussi, a Parisian banker of Russian origin 15 years her senior, in 1883.  She and Maurice divorced in 1904 mostly due to Maurice’s profligate lifestyle and compulsive gambling.

One of the bedrooms in the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

After the divorce, Béatrice turned her attention to one of her great passions: collecting art.  She acquired a Tiepolo ceiling, 18th century furniture, a games table that had once belonged to Marie Antoinette, and a rug commissioned by Louis XIV.  When her father died in 1905, she inherited his immense fortune.  That same year, she decided to build her dream home in Cap Ferrat.

The French garden at Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Work on the gardens began immediately and took 7 years to complete. The site chosen for the Villa was not particularly conducive to the creation of a garden due to poor soil on a rocky promontory exposed to strong winds.  After rejecting plans from a couple of famous architects of the day, she finally chose Jacques-Marcel Auburtin as her architect for the Villa.  She moved into it in 1912 and divided her time between Paris, Monaco and the Villa.

The Grand Salon in Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Béatrice made her Villa a haven for her art collections, with paintings by great masters, exquisite porcelain and furniture.  It was the best of everything, if a rather eclectic mix.  She died in Davos, Switzerland in 1934 from tuberculosis, and bequeathed her Villa and the entirety of its collection, which included over 5,000 works of art, and the 7 hectares of land, to the Académie des Beaux-Arts.

Villa La Fleur du Cap, once the residence of British actor David Niven.

The area of St Jean-Cap Ferrat has long been renowned as a wealthy enclave of the rich and famous.  On the other side of the Cap Ferrat peninsula, about 850m away from Villa Ephrussi-Rothschild, is a magnificent piece of architecture painted in a vibrant shade of pink, La Fleur Du Cap.  This was built in 1880 as Villa Socoglio by the son of an arms dealer.  This villa had many famous occupants, starting with the Duchess of Marlborough, the cousin by marriage of Winston Churchill, then Leopold lll, king of the Belgians, and after him, the great British actor, David Niven—the Villa’s location is now named Place David Niven.  Charlie Chaplin once stayed for a week, and Grace Kelly and her husband Prince Ranier of Monaco, were also known to dine there often with their great friend Niven.

Villa Kerylos on the point of Beaulieu-sur-Mer.

Barely 2 kms from Villa Ephrussi-Rothschild is the Villa Kérylos, right on the point of Beaulieu-sur-Mer.  The no. 15 bus from Villa Ephrussi-Rothschild (or vice-versa) will take you there in about 10 mins.  These buses run at around 8 min. intervals.  Or you can walk between the two villas.

A section of the Promenade Maurice Rouvier

You could easily make a whole day out of visiting this part of the Riviera.  There is a coastal path that connects the two small ports of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and Beaulieu-sur-Mer.  It’s part of the 14 kms of coastal path around the Saint-Jean-Cap Ferrat peninsula, and goes past David Niven Square after about 1.4 kms from the start, along Promenade Maurice Rouvier, an easy walk, taking around 15 mins.  However, it is more direct to walk from Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild to La Fleur du Cap, then on to Villa Kérylos.  Ask at the Nice Tourist Office for details of all the wonderful walks in this area.

One of the salons in Villa Kerylos, based on a traditional ancient Greek design

Villa Kérylos was designed and constructed between 1902 and 1908, as a collaboration between the archaeologist Theodore Reinarch and Emmanuel Pontremoli, an architect who had won the Grand Prix de Rome in 1890.  The idea was to create an original work combining ancient luxury and modern comfort typical of the houses of the Belle Epoque.  Reinach bequeathed the Villa Kérylos and its collections to the Institut de France before his death in 1928.

Traditional materials were used for the construction of the Villa Kerylos and its interiors.

The villa is much more than a reproduction of a Hellenistic period villa, it’s a true “reinvention” of Ancient Greece, and just makes one want to travel to Greece immediately!  The materials used for its construction were carefully selected from antique stuccoes, Carrara marbles, and exotic timbers for the furniture.  In the various rooms the mosaics and frescoes depict classical gods and heroes and important moments in Greek myth and history.

Internal courtyard of Villa Kerylos with wall frescoes depicting ancient Greek myths

Wall frescoes show the dispute of the lyre between Apollo, the god of the sun and protector of the arts, and Hermes, the messenger of the gods and protector of travellers; the death of Talos; the return of Apollo to the sanctuary of Delphi; the return of Hephaestus, the god of fire, forging and volcanoes, to Olympus Pelops, after whom the Peloponnese is named, and other mythical legends.  There is a fine library specialising in archaeology as well as various objects.  The upper floors reproduce various ancient, traditional functions as well as bedrooms for the owners, and display numerous fine antique objects d’art.  The whole atmosphere is of a luxurious antique villa.

 

Views from the garden of Villa Kerylos.

The view from the garden is magnificent, stretching as far as the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula and its beautiful residences.  The planting consists of olive trees, vines, pomegranate trees and oleanders, which thrive under the Riviera sun.  The Villa Kérylos is open all year round although its opening times vary seasonally, so check with the Nice Tourist Office or go online to the villa’s own website.  Entry fee is currently 13 Euros.  As mentioned in the previous story, you can buy a combined ticket for the Villa Kérylos and Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild for 24 Euros.

The perched medieval village and garden of Eze, just along the coast from Nice. Photo, Shutterstock

After visiting Villa Kérylos, consider heading to one of the most spectacular sights on the Riviera coast, the perched village of Èze, often described as an “eagle’s nest”.  Take the no. 83 bus from Villa Kérylos, (the stop is simply called ‘Kérylos’).  This bus starts at Baie des Formis at Beaulieu-sur-Mer, and goes past Villa Kérylos, and then takes you to Èze—the ride takes around 25 mins.  From Èze it’s easy to take a bus direct back to Nice.  Alternatively, out of Nice, take the no. 82 from Nice’s Vauban bus station, or perhaps more conveniently, Nice Boyer Station, to Èze village in about 30 mins.—the Tourist Office can show you stops in Nice that might be more convenient than going all the way up to the bus station.  Don’t catch the no. 100, which goes to Èze sur Mer, unless you fancy a hike up the mountainside to the perched village.  Èze’s bus stop is an easy walk to the medieval centre.

The Jardin Exotique is one of the highlights of a visit to Eze

If you’re interested in gardens, the village has a well-regarded garden of tropical plants, the Jardin Exotique, you can visit.  Established at the end of WW2, it was set out on the site of the ruins of a medieval fortress, perched 430 m. above the Mediterranean, so the views are breathtaking.  The small village was founded around 2000 BCE, and a treasure trove of ancient Greek silver bowls dating from the 3rd century BC were found in Èze in the late 19th century.  The Phoenicians had also occupied the site and erected a temple to the goddess Isis.  The area was subsequently occupied by not only the Romans but also the Moors, who held the area for about 80 years until they were driven out by William of Provence in 973 CE.

Exploring the perched village of Eze.

Today, Èze is famous for its beauty and charm, with many shops, art galleries, small hotels, restaurants that attract visitors and honeymooners, and a lovely Sunday morning market that showcases an array of local produce and handmade crafts.  As a result, Èze has been dubbed by some a village-musée.  Èze is one of 13 villages grouped together by the Communauté d’agglomération de Nice-Côte d’Azur tourist department as the Route des Villages.  Ask at the Nice Tourist Office for more info. on the rest of the group, and also ask about the French Riviera Passes for entry to a number of museums, galleries and the Èze Jardin Exotique.

The perched village of Eze.

As I hope I’ve shown, Nice and its surrounds have a lot to offer the visitor, and I’ll save up more of these for the next story.  Let me know if you’ve got any specific queries about this region, and I’d be delighted to try and help with some suggestions.

The beach and villas on Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

NICE – JEWEL OF THE FRENCH RIVIERA

Panoramic view of the Old Port of Nice. Photo, Shutterstock

No matter how often you visit the city of Nice on the French Riviera, there are always plenty of delights to experience and explore.  It wasn’t always the case though.  For many years, much of Nice was run-down and the area close to the docks was nothing more than a seedy sailors’ haunt.  This was certainly the case when we first visited Nice back in 1975.  In those days, Cannes was the place to go.  Today, Nice is almost unrecognisable from those days.  All that has been cleaned up, restored and revitalised and the area is full of vibrant cafes and restaurants, hotels, inviting shops, pedestrianised streets and some of the best museums in the country.

 

The Promenade des Anglais in 1882 when it was a winter retreat for wealthy English visitors.

Back in the 18th century, it became fashionable among the English aristocracy and the new class of wealthy merchants, to visit Italy on the so-called Grand Tour.  The easiest way to get to Italy was across France to Marseilles, then take a boat along the coast, stopping along the way at the small port of Nice.  The English visitors soon came up with the idea of wintering in this exceptionally mild climate, rather than enduring a cold, damp English winter.  Mediterranean tourism had begun, and by 1820, there was a sizeable British colony in Nice.  In 1822, the Rev. Lewis Way decided to employ local workmen to build a fine walkway beside the beachfront, the Baie des Anges.  The arrival of the railway in 1864 made Nice far more accessible from Paris and northern Europe.  Nice has never looked back.  In 2021 th city was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its beauty, history, architecture and natural spaces.

The Crystal Casino on the Jetty of Baie des Anges was a great attraction for foreign tourists to Nice in the 19th century.  Sadly, it no longer exists.

In the days when the early English tourists began visiting Nice, the city was not part of France, but part of the Kingdom of Sardinia, which covered an area that is now mostly in Italy.  It was not until the signing of the Treaty of Turin in 1860 that the Duchy of Savoy and the County of Nice were ceded to France.  Consequently, Nice and its immediate region have a culture and traditions that have much in common with those of Italy.

The Hotel Negresco Nice, on the Promenade des Anglais.

The image many of us have when we first think of Nice is the Promenade des Anglais, as the locals soon called it upon its completion.  This long road, running alongside the sea for 7 kms., is lined with elegant hotels, such as the magnificent Negresco with its huge, pink dome, and other luxurious hotels, such as Hyatt’s Palais de la Méditerranée.  The Negresco was built in 1912 by Henri Negresco and opened in 1913.  He came from Budapest, and went to the French Riviera in order to find work.  He became the director of the Municipal Casino in Nice, and had the idea to build a sumptuous hotel of quality that would attract the wealthiest of clients.  The spectacular Baccarat crystal chandelier in the hotel’s Royal Lounge was originally commissioned by Czar Nicholas ll who, due to the October Revolution in Russia, was unable to take delivery.  In 2003, the Hotel Negresco was listed by French government as a National Historic Building.

The pebble beach of Baie des Anges. Photo, Shutterstock

Strolling along the Promenade des Anglais, it’s tempting to relax on one of the famous blue beach chairs, and gaze out over the blue Mediterranean.  Of course, Australians are not exactly impressed by the lack of sand, and it takes some getting used to the pebbles.  We love watching people gingerly negotiating their way across the pebbles to find a spot to stretch out or head for the water.

The Promenade des Anglais and Baie des Anges beach as it is today.

There are other compensations however, such as the selection of convenient and very appealing-looking cafes and restaurants right on the beach, offering anything from ice creams and snacks, or more elaborate meals.  A cocktail on the beach at sunset is a great way to finish off a busy day.

The southern facade of the Opera de Nice.

The Promenade des Anglais morphs into the Quai des États-Unis, where you’ll see the beautiful Opéra de Nice.  Its entrance is located on rue Saint-François de Paule, with its southern façade facing the sea.  This beautiful white building opened in February 1885 on the site of an earlier opera house that had burnt down.  The Théâtre Municipal, as it was then called, re-opened with Verdi’s Aida.  Today, it’s referred to as Opéra Nice Cote d’Azur.

Cours Saleya market in Vieux Nice.

Also backing onto Quai des États-Unis is the Cours Saleya market, which is in the heart of Vieux Nice, the old town.  Always pulsating with life, its striped awnings cover its centre and shelter the products on offer in the daily market.

The Cours Saleya flower market.

Often simply referred to as the Flower Market, it offers much more, with stalls overflowing with enticing displays of fresh, seasonal produce, while others offer such products as spices, olives, local honey, soaps etc.  I’ve often bought small packets of dried herbes de Provence and fragrant dried lavender sachets here.  This is always on our Must Visit agenda, and after browsing through the market, there are any number of delightful cafes lining the perimeter to choose from for a relaxing coffee or lunch.

The Cours Saleya Monday Bric-a-Brac market.

The one day you won’t find flowers and food in Cours Saleya is Monday.  That’s the day for the marché à la brocantes, the antiques/flea market, offering anything from old jewellery, furniture, books, vintage clothing and general bric-a-brac.  In the warm summer evenings in June, you can browse through the marché artisanal nocturne—the evening crafts market, while strolling through Cours Saleya on your way to dinner.  This runs from June to September.

Art & Craft Market in front of the Palais de Justice.

Just one street behind Cours Saleya market is the Place du Palais de Justice, where markets are held almost every Saturday.  The first and 3rd Saturdays of the month are devoted to books—anything from used paperbacks to beautiful, rare books.  The second Saturday is a craft and painting market, and the 4th Saturday is a market selling old post cards.

The look-out on the Colline du Chateau offers a panoramic view of Nice.

At the end of Quai des États-Unis and Vieux Nice, is the dramatic headland of La Colline du Château, whose former fortress was demolished 300 years ago.  Today, La Colline and its park, filled with beautiful Mediterranean trees and shrubs, separates the beach from the old port, le Vieux Port.  This is now a yacht marina filled with the luxury yachts of the super-rich.

A typical pedestrianised street in Vieux Nice.

Moving from the open spaces of the Promenade des Anglais into Vieux Nice, is entering into the narrow streets of a traditional Mediterranean city.  As in Italy, the narrow streets are lined with 5 storey houses with terracotta tiled roofs and stuccoed walls painted in the warm colours of the south: terracotta, yellows, ochres and reds.  Cafes spill out of the old buildings with their tables and chairs spread across the footpaths, meaning that deliveries must be made by hand-cart.  The aromas of Mediterranean cooking waft from the kitchens through these streets—a mouth-watering experience at any time of the day.  There are lots of little shops selling a range of Provencal/Mediterranean-themed merchandise—most of which is actually very appealing and hard to resist, such as cotton place mats, napkins and tablecloths in pretty Provençal prints, locally made pottery decorated with Provençal and Nicoise motifs, lightweight cotton overshirts, perfect on hot days or over a swimsuit, cotton scarves and shawls, and of course, sunhats and the woven straw baskets, typical of Provence.

Eglise de Notre Dame de l’Annociation, or Eglise Sainte Rita, Nice.

For Baroque aficionados, Nice offers some outstanding sights to enjoy.  Baroque was favoured by powerful families to display their wealth, as can still be seen in the Palais Lascaris and Palais Corvesy.  In the heart of the Old Town is a beautiful Baroque church, one of the oldest in Nice, the Église Notre Dame de l’Annonciation, usually referred to as the Église Sainte Rita, or Église Saint Jacques-le-Majeur , at no. 1 rue de la Poissonnerie.  As you pass by, your eye will be drawn to its imposing Corinthian columns and 42 metre tall campanile.  Do pop in to admire the magnificent interior.  Its original construction is said to have been around the year 900, but that building was destroyed during the siege of Nice during the Ninth Italian War of 1542-46.  The current building dates from 1612, with various alterations up to the 19th century.

Sainte Reparate Cathedral, Nice.  Photo, Shutterstock

Just a block or two from Église Sainte Rita is the main church in Nice, Sainte Reparate Cathedral, at no. 3 Place Rossetti, dating from 1699.  Inside, there are 10 Baroque chapels with ornate altarpieces and many exquisite art objects and statuary. The original church was built in 1075, and rebuilt and enlarged over the ensuring centuries. This impressive and very beautiful church is a Must Visit.

Fenocchio Glacier on Place Rossetti in Vieux Nice.

Adjacent to the Cathedral on Place Rossetti, is Fenocchio, the most celebrated gelato shop in Nice.  In addition to having reputedly the most delicious ice creams and sorbets, it also offers unusual flavours, such as lavender.

Place Massena is in the heart of Nice.

Nearby Place Massena is the centrepiece of Nice, both physically and figuratively.  It borders the old town and is a short walk from the Promenade des Anglais.  A very convenient bus and tram line runs in a straight line, all the way from the main railway station a few kms away along the main shopping street, Ave. Jean Médecin, right down to Place Massena.

The Fontaine du Soleil, Place Massena in the heart of Nice.

This square, tiled in large black and white tiles, makes quite an impression with its enormous fountain, the Italianate Fontaine du Soleil (Fountain of the Sun God), with its 7m high sculpture of Apollo at its centre, surrounded by other cavorting statuary representing the planets Earth, Mars, Venus, Mercury and Saturn.  Place Massena is full of life day and night, just like an Italian piazza, surrounded by curved, arcaded buildings with small shops and café tables and umbrellas spilling out into the sunshine.

The illuminated 7 statues of ‘Conversation in Nice’gradually change colour at night.

You also can’t miss the 7 statues of kneeling men set on high poles around the Place, called “Conversation in Nice”.  These symbolise the continents of planet earth, and are brightly illuminated at night, gently changing colour in a flowing sequence.

Rue Massena, in the heart of Vieux Nice.

Just off Place Massena is rue Massena, one of our favourite haunts in Nice.  It’s a narrow, pedestrianised street lined on both sides with every type of café and restaurant you could wish for, interspersed with cute little boutiques.  We used to stay in this street in a little, unpretentious hotel, but after many years, it finally changed hands, and not for the better, in our view.  However, anywhere within easy reach of this street is our preferred area to stay, as it offers everything we need for the perfect Nice sojourn.

The beautiful Palais de l’Agriculture, on Promenade des Anglais.

There are many beautiful landmark buildings in Nice.  One of which is at 113 Promenade des Anglais, a couple of blocks before the Negresco which is at no. 37.  This is the Palais de l’Agriculture, home of the Central Society of Agriculture, Horticulture and Acclimatisation of the Alpes-Maritimes.  This gorgeous villa dates from 1901 during the Belle Époque era, and as it’s painted a bright ochre yellow, you won’t miss it!  It hosts numerous events, conferences, courses and workshops on the subject of plants, gardening, cactus knowledge, botany and floral art, and its library is open to everyone.  No surprise that it’s a listed Monument Historique.

Musee Matisse, Nice.  Photo, Shutterstock

Up on the slopes of the neighbourhood of Cimiez behind the main city, just a block or so from the Musée Matisse, is one of the most spectacular hotels of the Belle Époque era, the Hotel Excelsior Regina Palace, at 71 Bvd de Cimiez.  ‘Palace’ is certainly an apt description of this enormous hotel, which you can see from down in the city itself.  It was part of the heyday of Nice tourism between the late 19th century and the 1930s.

The former Hotel excelsior Regina Palace, in the same neighbourhood as the Musee Matisse.

Built in only 18 months, this majestic establishment was designed to meet the requirements of Queen Victoria herself.  Behind its imposing façade were about 400 rooms, most with a panoramic view of the whole of the city.  The hotel is set in a vast park of over 8,000 sq. m.  There are exotic tropical plants, cycle tracks, badminton and croquet courts.  Unfortunately, the 1929 stock-market crash forced the sale of the hotel, which was transformed into luxury private apartments.  At the entrance to the garden stands a white marble statue of Queen Victoria. The former hotel’s façade as well as its garden, terraces, roof and other architectural features, have been registered as Monuments Historiques since 1992.  To get there, take any of the buses, such as the no. 5, that are heading to the Matisse Museum, which is close by.

One of the many magnificent rooms in the Musee du Palais Lascaris.

Speaking of museums, Nice has a wealth of wonderful museums.  Probably the best-known is the Matisse Museum at 164 Ave. des Arenes de Cimiez.  As well, check out the Musée Marc Chagall, Jules Chéret Museum of Fine Arts, the Nice Cimiez Archaeology Museum, Palais Lascaris, Musée Massena and Musee d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain, just to name a few.

Villa & Gardens Ephrussi de Rothschild.

Two of our top favourites are a short bus ride 10 km from the city, namely, the truly gorgeous Villa and Gardens Ephrussi de Rothschild at St Jean-Cap-Ferrat overlooking the Bay of Villefranche, and near it, the Villa Kerylos in Beaulieu-sur-Mer.  This is a reproduction of a Classical Greek villa built in the early 1900s by French archaeologist Theodore Reinach.  You can buy a combined entry ticket for both these last two magnificent museums.  They are easy to get to on a Nice local bus, either the no. 607 or 15.

Villa Kerylos at Beaulieu-sur-Mer.

Visit one of the three Nice Tourist Offices for specific info. about the many museums and attractions:  There’s one at no. 2, Promenade des Anglais, another at the main railway station and one at Nice Airport.  Ask the Tourist Office about the Nice Museum Pass, and also about easy excursions further along the coast to Villefranche-sur-Mer, Beaulieu, Menton and the remarkable perched medieval village and garden of Eze.

The perched medieval village and garden of Eze, just along the coast from Nice. Photo, Shutterstock

As there is so much to talk about regarding the many wonderful art museums in Nice and the surrounding area, I will talk about some of our favourites  in the next post.

The Carnavale Parade is held in Nice every February.

                                                           

 

 

 

 

 

 

DISCOVER THE BEAUTIFUL MUSÉE RODIN IN PARIS

The Hôtel Biron is now the Musee Rodin

Without doubt, the Musée Rodin is one of the loveliest museums in Paris.  This has as much to do with the beautiful garden as the fabulous collection itself.  We first visited this museum back in the ‘70s, and revisit it as often as we can. It’s located in rue de Varenne, just a few minutes’ walk from the Invalides and the Eiffel Tower, in a very swanky part of the 7th arrondissement, with embassies as neighbours, and discreet mansions with high walls that shield them from the admiring gaze from passersby.

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