Author: Cheryl Brooks

One of our all-time favourite towns in France, and certainly our top favourite in Provence, Aix-en-Provence never fails to enchant every time.  We first visited the town back in the 1970s, due its reputation as a great place to explore, but chiefly because of its history, as a town founded by the Romans in the 2^nd century BCE.  We soon discovered for ourselves one of the loveliest towns in the country, with its intact medieval footprint of narrow, pedestrianised streets, Renaissance houses, handsome 18^th century buildings, enticing shops selling great fashion and décor, and a diverse population of university students, every branch of the professions, especially lawyers, and a diverse local population.

Aix was founded in 123 BCE by the Roman consul Sextius Calvinus, who gave his name to its hot springs, (The Waters of Sextius), following the destruction of the nearby Gallic oppidum (a fortified Iron Age settlement) at Entremont.  Aix took on the characteristics of a Roman city, and had a forum, a theatre, baths and aqueducts.

The 3^rd century CE was marked by the beginning of the demographic decline of Aquae Sextiae.  During this time it was the capital of the Narbonensis Secunda region, and the city dominated major ancient cities such as Fréjus, Antibes, Riez, Apt, Sisteron, and Gap.

Over the ensuing centuries, Aix was occupied by the Visigoths, Franks, Lombards and Saracens, during which time most of the Roman monuments were destroyed.  By the Middle Ages, Aix was the capital of Provence.  It had reached its zenith by the 12^th century, when, under the houses of Barcelona-Aragon and Anjou, it became an artistic centre and seat of learning.  Traces of its Roman origins are evident throughout the town, and in 2004, the Roman theatre was discovered near Notre-Dame-des-la-Seds on the edge of town, becoming the town’s most famous ancient monument.  More recently, in the Ville des Tours, a medieval-era suburb of Aix, the remains of a Roman amphitheatre have been unearthed, along with a deposit of fossil bones from the Upper Continental Miocene, which are said to have given rise to a Christian dragon legend.

An archbishopric was created in Aix, ensuring its pre-eminent position throughout the Middle Ages, confirmed by the creation of a university in 1409.  Shortly after, along with the rest of Provence, Aix passed to the crown of France in 1487, and in 1501, Louis XII established a parliament of Provence, which existed until 1789.  The building constructed for it is today the Palais de Justice, which I will discuss in greater detail further on.

A walk through Aix is like a trip back in time.  Your steps will lead you to an exceptional architectural and cultural heritage.  It’s easy to see how historically prosperous it was, and still is.  The historic town is mostly pedestrianised, with narrow streets lined in elegant stone buildings.  The main boulevard, Cours Mirabeau, seems to have been designed for the locals to promenade, socialise and show off their prosperity.  It’s often referred to as the “Champs Elysees of Provence”, lined with 17^th and 18^th century mansions, and an avenue of plane trees along both sides of the road is a haven during the heat of a Provençal summer.  The road runs from Place Charles de Gaulle with its Fontaine de la Rotonde, up to the statue of King René at the other end.

Aix was historically called The City of 1,000 Fountains, in recognition of its Roman history relating to water.  The reality is that there are actually around a hundred or so, although I have only managed to track down around 30 of them!  The Cours Mirabeau has one of the most impressive fountains in town, La Rotonde, located on a busy roundabout at one end.  It stands around 12 metres high, with a figure on top facing Cours Mirabeau, representing Justice.  A second female figure faces the direction of Avignon, said to suggest the Fine Arts, while a third figure faces Marseille, signifying Agriculture.  All these are supposed to embody the main business concerns of Aix.

One side of the Cours Mirabeau is mostly offices, official buildings and a cinema, while the opposite side is lined with delightful cafés, tables and chairs spread out on their terraces, that are always full of locals and visitors alike enjoying the constant flow of people passing by.  One of the best-known of these is Café Les Deux Garçons, established in 1792, once the favourite haunt of local Paul Cézanne, and still retains its original décor inside.  The Cézanne family originally had a hat shop next door.  This business was so successful that it became a local bank, then with even greater wealth, Cézanne’s father was able to set up his son to be free to enjoy his increasing artistic pursuits, without the necessity of having to earn a living.

Cézanne studied law at the university, and produced many paintings in and around his home town—although he remained, by and large, rejected by the town, who really did not understand him or his art, chiefly because of his style—he is often referred to as the first “modern” painter.  The local museum, Musée Granet, has some Cézanne paintings, but was mostly spurned by the museum curator during his lifetime.  By the time Cézanne’s work was acknowledged by the wider world as masterpieces, the prices had attained stratospheric heights, and most of his works by then were mostly out of reach of Musée Granet.  Today, it has 10 works by Cézanne, and the city is very keen indeed to exploit any reference it can to the great artist.  However, the museum has a fine collection of other artists’ works well worth a look.

About a half hour walk from the city centre is Atelier Cezanne, the artist’s last studio.  It has been preserved as it was when he died, and is open to the public.  Although there are no paintings here, his tools, personal belongings and props such as porcelain vases, paper and fabric flowers, a small, plaster cupid, make it a worthwhile excursion for enthusiasts.  I have been a number of times since my first visit as a student attending a summer school at the university back in 1989.  It has a very special atmosphere and not to be missed by Cézanne fans.   Ask the local Tourist Office to mark it on your map.

Stroll into the Mazarin Quarter behind the Cours Mirabeau, and you will find streets laid out in a grid plan from the reign of Louis XIV.  Today, it remains a quiet, peaceful, elegant, mostly residential neighbourhood, and also with legal, accounting and medical practices housed discreetly in fine stone buildings.  The Place de Quatre Dauphins (Square of the Four Dolphins) has a fountain inspired by Bernini’s masterpiece in Rome.  It’s one of my favourite fountains in a town with so many.

In the heart of this area at 3, rue Joseph Cabassol, you will find the Hôtel de Caumont, an art centre opened in May 2015 after an extensive renovation, including its lovely courtyard and garden.  It’s housed in one of the finest 18^th century mansions in town built for the Marquis de Cabannes, the President of the Court of Auditors.  It hosts around 3 temporary exhibitions a year dedicated to the great masters of art from the 14^th to 19^th centuries.  The magnificently restored interiors alone are well worth a visit, and it’s open every day.

Crossing Cours Mirabeau will take you back into Aix’s historic town, where the pedestrianised streets hum with activity.  The town’s daily outdoor market at Place Richelme is a classic Provençal scene:  local farmers selling fresh produce under the shade of enormous plane trees.  There has been a market on this square since the 1300s.  At one end of the square are cafés, ideal for savouring the whole market ambience, so take time to pause for a while over a drink and perhaps a snack from the local boulangerie.

Near this square is the Post Office and the Hotel de Ville at Place de l’Hôtel de Ville.  My little flat was down a side street, just a 2 minute walk from here, and I used to pause every morning en route to my class, in order to simply enjoy the scene.  One of the local stallholders used to keep a few things aside for me, such as punnets of berries and local stone fruit to collect at lunchtime, and I’d allow myself an occasional treat of some inexpensive fresh flowers—everything was usually heavily reduced by the end of the morning’s trade.  The first Sunday of the month has an Old Book Fair in the square.  Lots of cafés around this square.

Place de l’Hôtel de Ville has a large stone clocktower at one end that links this square to Saint Sauveur, Aix’s Cathedral.  A narrow, busy street named rue Gaston de Saporta, runs up from the clock tower.  This man was a famous paleobotanist, who contributed a vast amount of knowledge about the transformation of plant species.  He died in Aix in 1895.  This area of town is known as Bourg Saint Sauveur, and occupies the site of the former Roman town.  A number of the narrow streets off this main road have kept their evocative names from the Middle Ages, such as rue du Griffon and rue Esquicho-coudo (“squeeze the elbows” in the Provençal dialect).  The remains of the old medieval ramparts of Aix are still visible on rue des Guerries.

The whole length of rue Gaston de Saporta is lined with handsome stone mansions.  Hotel Estienne de Saint-Jean, at no. 17, is a former private mansion, built in 1671 for the Paymaster-General of France, that now houses the Musée du Vieil Aix (Old Aix Museum) and its collections evoking the traditions of Aix and its region.  It has a beautiful interior, with a splendid staircase that was definitely designed to impress!  There’s a lovely garden, overlooked by a suite of rooms, including a boudoir with a painted cupola held up by moulded figures and five charming little cherubs with flowers.  Listed as a Monument Historique in 1937, this elegant museum is well worth a visit.

Opposite the Musée du Vieil Aix, and up a little on the right is Place des Martyrs de la Resistance.  At the far end of this small, shady square, bordered with the terraces of cafés, is the impressive façade of the former Palais de l’Archevêque, with its heavily sculpted tympanum above its door.  Once occupied by the brother of Cardinal Mazarin, Archbishop Michel Mazarin was very influential in the development of Aix and its surrounding region.  The present-day palace dates from the 17^th century.  It now houses the Musée des Tapisseries (Tapestry Museum) with an impressive collection of works from the 17^th and 18^th centuries, in particular, some exquisite pieces from the Beauvais workshops and a cycle of Don Quixote scenes.  This building is also the ticket office for the Festival d’Aix-en-Provence, the annual music festival which takes place principally in July, and regarded as one of the most prestigious in the country.

On the left-hand side of this road, walking a little further on from Musee du Vieil Aix, numerous of the fine mansions have long been occupied by faculties of the University of Aix-en-Provence, including the Law Faculty, where Cezanne had been a student, which relocated out to the main campus in 1950, part of the Arts Faculty, housing the Institut d’études françaises pour étudiants étrangers (where I was a student), and the building currently occupied by the Institut d’Études Politiques (usually referred to as Sciences Po).

Further up this road, almost at the end, is one of the landmarks of Aix, the Cathedral of Saint Sauveur, on a site that has been a sacred place for thousands of years, on the road that was called the Via Aurelia in Roman times.  A fragment of a Roman wall and the columns of the baptistery suggest that the cathedral was built on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Apollo.

There were several interruptions during the cathedral’s construction, due to wars, plagues and lack of finance, which explains the combination of different architectural styles which make up the cathedral we see today.  The Romanesque south aisle dates from the 11^th century, while most of the rest of the building is flamboyant Gothic dating from the early 16^th century.  There are touches of 17th century Baroque in the north side aisle, while the baptistery and its 8 columns are from the 5^th or 6^th century, one of the oldest in France.  In 731, the Saracens destroyed the city of Aix as well as the church.  Rebuilding re-commenced in 1057 and dedicated in 1103.  It’s a wonderful building to explore, and do make sure to visit the beautiful cloister.

Just to one side off rue Gaston de Saporta, near the Hotel de Ville, is a large square, Place des Cardeurs.  It opened in 1963 when the municipality demolished a block of decrepit houses.  The square’s boundaries correspond more or less to the former Jewish district of the Middle Ages.  Today, Provençal houses with colourful façades border the square, with a fountain in the middle.  The square is a very popular place full of cafés and restaurants whose terraces cover half the square.  A great place to find a meal.

A block or two from here at 23, rue de la Molle, is arguably the town’s most beautiful mansion, the Pavillon de Vendôme, regarded as one of the finest examples of Neo-Classical architecture in Provence.  With its elegant formal garden, this magnificent home was built in 1665 for Louis de Mercoeur, Duke of Vendome, who had become Governor of Provence in 1652.  There were the usual additions and alterations over the centuries, including the garden.  Today it houses the Dobler Museum, with exhibitions of contemporary art and photography.  It was listed as a Monument Historique in 1914.

Running off Place du General de Gaulle at the Fontaine de la Rotonde, at one end of the Cours Mirabeau, is rue Espariat, a busy shopping street that runs up to Place Saint Honoré.  Walking along this street, on the corner of rue de la Masse, you will see the former cloister of the Augustinians, that features a square tower with an octagonal extra level, all topped with an intricate wrought-iron dome.  This was added in 1667 in order to avoid the strong mistral winds making the bells ring.

A former private Baroque mansion at no. 6 rue Espariat is home to Aix’s Natural History Museum, exhibiting an impressive collection of paleontological, zoological and ethnographic artefacts, and in particular, a unique dinosaur fossil collection from nearby Mont Sainte Victoire.  Almost facing the Natural History Museum lies the elegant Place d’Albertas.  This square is certainly one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Provence.

At the end of this street, and up any of the side roads to the left, you will come to the Palais de Justice in busy Place de Verdun.  This massive building was once the residence of the Lords of Provence, then the Parliament of Provence and the Court of Auditors. The construction of the handsome Palais de Justice (Law Courts) was first commissioned in 1787, however, due to the Revolution in 1789, construction was discontinued.  Work resumed in 1822 and finally completed in 1831.  It was listed as a Monument Historique in 1979.  Today, it is one of the most important Courts in the region, hence the large number of lawyers and related legal professionals in the town.

The former palace was destroyed at the end of the 18th century and rebuilt between 1825 and 1832.  There are lots of great shopping opportunities in and around this part of town, and you’re sure to find a few goodies you can’t live without, for yourself and take-home gift ideas.

There’s so much more for visitors to explore, for example, the town was also the birthplace of the great French writer, Emile Zola, lifelong friend and school mate of Paul Cezanne.  There is a statue of him in Parc Jourdan, a few blocks from Cours Mirabeau on the southern side of town.  There’s also the Vasarely Foundation on the outskirts of town at 1, avenue Marcel Pagnol.  Home to the artistic conceptions of Victor Vasarely, whose colossal paintings used abstract shapes and bold colours, attracting worldwide attention—and so much more.

This is just a snapshot of the beautiful town of Aix-en-Provence, and be prepared to spend at least a couple of days exploring some of its attractions, and taking up the challenge of locating as many of its fountains as you can!  Getting to Aix is easy, as it’s on a TGV line, just 25 kms from Marseille airport, and numerous bus lines.

The village of Lourmarin is one of the loveliest in the region, and it comes as no surprise that it has been designated one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France.  Every time we’re in this part of Provence, we make a point of visiting Lourmarin, and this last time we stayed for a couple of nights so that we could better absorb the atmosphere, and see what the village was like out of the normal tourist visiting hours.  Despite being such a popular destination, Lourmarin has managed to maintain a lively community spirit and obvious sense of camaraderie among the locals.

Lourmarin lies at the foot of the Luberon Massif (mountain) in the heart of the Regional Natural Park of the Luberon, in the Department of Vaucluse, where a pass divides the Luberon from north to south.  Most of the villages of the Luberon are in the so-called Petit Luberon to the west.  The Massif here is low enough that you can walk up to the top without being a climber, and high enough to give fantastic views from the path that runs all along the top.  In the Luberon, you can find the bling of a “6-star palace” hotel in one village, and 10 minutes away the absolute authenticity of a quiet village whose ancient fountain gurgles away in a dusty square, with one small café and a boulangerie.

Lourmarin is located 35 kms north of Aix-en-Provence, just a short 35-40 min. drive or an hour’s bus ride.  58 kms from Avignon, it takes around 2 hrs. by bus, changing at Apt., or around 40 mins. by car.  Although not a typical perched, hill-top village—it’s on a plain with two slight hills (more like rises).  As you’ll discover, it’s one of the loveliest Luberon villages.  As soon as you arrive, you know you’ve found somewhere quite special, and it comes as no surprise to learn that it is designated as one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France (most beautiful villages).  As someone once remarked, it’s where café culture meets the timeless delights of a medieval Luberon village.

Lourmarin always has a lively atmosphere, especially on Fridays, which is market day.  Brightly coloured stalls overflow with fresh produce, flowers—especially enormous bunches of lavender during the harvesting season–local olives, cheeses, Provençal-themed table linen, pretty baskets and fashion.  From 8.00am, vendors’ white vans fill the car-park and market stalls set up in Place Henri Barthelemy, spilling out along the narrow streets.  Lourmarin’s organic market takes place on Tuesday evenings.

In the centre of the village where the roads converge, there are tables everywhere on the footpath, where you can join locals sitting in the sun enjoying a morning coffee, a relaxing drink at sundown after a busy day exploring, to a 5-course dinner at the end of the day.  The streets of the village meander round, past fountains and houses packed tightly side-by-side, rising up to the highest point of the village to the impressive belfry, built on the vestiges of a medieval moated château that once defined Lourmarin.

Lourmarin had been an important stop on the Marseille-Apt route since the 11^th century, located in the cleft that runs right through the Luberon mountain range.  It was also a popular stopping point for travellers on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.  The village was under the control of the Baux family, lords of the county of Forcalquier in the 10^th century, then in the 13^th century, it was integrated into the county of Provence.  During the Renaissance period, the population of the village increased following the emigration of the Vaudois of the Alps (Briançon, Embrun, and the valleys of Piedmont).

In April 1545, following the violent conflict between Catholics and Protestants, the troops of the French privateer, Paulin de la Garde, acting on behalf of King François 1, then Henri ll, and at the request of the first president of Provence, the village was set on fire.  Some of the survivors converted to Catholicism, while others, rather than convert to Roman Catholicism, subsequently left and headed back to Piedmont.

There was still a sizeable Protestant community in the 17^th century, but after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, some of the Huguenot winegrowers of the village fled to the Netherlands.  They then embarked on the ships of the Dutch East India Company for South Africa.  One of the Lourmarin winemakers, Jean Roy, emigrated to South Africa in 1688 and established one of the most famous vineyards in that country today, the L’Ormarins estate in Franschhoek.

A plague epidemic reduced the population by one-third in 1720.  However, in the 18^th and 19^th centuries, the village prospered due to the development of agriculture, vineyards, olive groves and silkworms.

The medieval Château de Lourmarin was built between 1480 and 1526 by Fouques d’Agoult, chamberlain of King Rene l of Anjou, and his successors on the ruins of the ancient 12^th century fort.  The Renaissance part of the château was built between 1526 and 1560, although the elegant galleries of stone and wood were built in the 15^th century, while the square tower, its chimneys decorated with caryatids, and high bays connected by vertical spans, and the fountains were constructed in the Renaissance style.

Although the château escaped destruction during the Revolution, it was badly neglected over the centuries by successive owners, and fell into partial ruin.  During the 1920s, Laurent Vibert, a Lyon-based industrialist and patron, bought the château and restored it entirely, based on archival documents.  It has been described as the “Little Villa Medici of Provence.”

The first part of the château you visit is the Loggia, and the medieval section, on 3 levels, is accessed by a spiral staircase.  In the courtyard itself are the vaulted cellars: an old prison, the kitchen and bakery where you can still see the oven.  There is an impressive double spiral staircase, and on each floor as you ascend, you will find the concert room, ladies’ bedchamber, reception room, salon, music room, gentlemen’s bedchamber, all of which are decorated in 18^th century Provençal style, with many treasures on display.  There’s beautiful woodwork and centuries old furniture, enormous fireplaces with intricate carving.

The château is aligned with the Academie des Arts et des Belles-Lettres in Aix-en-Provence, and these days welcomes young talents from the region, and organises a wide variety of cultural events throughout the year.  The château was classified as a Monument Historique in 1973, and it’s open for visits all year round.  Guided tours of the château and its art, including some engravings by Piranesi, are available.

In the village also check out the 15^th century belfry, the 11^th century Church of Saint André et Saint Trophime, with its splendid Renaissance vaults and majestic altarpiece dedicated to the patron saint, the alleyways and their ancient façades, the Protestant Temple and its clock tower, the fountains, and the numerous art galleries and antiques shops.

Lourmarin has had its share of famous residents, such as the writer Henri Bosco and Nobel Prize-winning author Albert Camus, who are now buried in the village cemetery.  There is a street in the village named after Camus.  The British writer Peter Mayle, who wrote the hugely popular “A Year in Provence”, once lived briefly in the village after returning from the Hamptons in the US, before moving to the neighbouring village of Vaugines.

Every part of this little village is full of Provençal life, with locals going about their daily activities and visitors strolling about enjoying the atmosphere.  The narrow streets that meander around the village’s heart are brimming with the most charming boutiques, antique shops, art galleries, casual restaurants and cafes serving good quality local food and local wines.

At the main intersection in the village, there are cafes spread out along the footpaths, where both visitors and locals gather at the bistro tables outside and enjoy sitting amongst friends and strangers in this charming setting.  This small village is the perfect location to spend a day or two simply relaxing and taking in the special atmosphere and hospitality of the Luberon.

“Lourmarin. The first evening after many so many years.  The first star over the Luberon, the immense silence, the top of the Cyprus tree that trembles in the breeze…”  Albert Camus

“Yes, one evening in Provence, one perfect hill, one whiff of salt are enough to show us that everything still lies before us…”    Albert Camus, writing about Lourmarin.

We have driven along the Esterel Corniche (coast road) from Nice heading to St Tropez many times over the years, and have often stopped at the pretty coastal town of Fréjus for lunch at one of the many attractive beachside cafes.  We’ve walked around it, enjoyed browsing through the numerous resort-wear shops, or simply rested on a beachside seat and enjoyed the sight of boats bobbing on the calm waters and admired the lovely villas perched above the port.  Recently, we decided we would stop off for a short stay and explore the town in depth for a change.  We’re so glad we did, and discovered some gems in the town on the hill above the port.  We were already aware of its Roman history, but the ruins remaining today are most impressive, testament to its importance in the region’s ancient past.

Merging almost as one with neighbouring Saint  Raphaël, Fréjus is one of the best-known seaside resorts on the French Riviera.  Extending further along to Saint-Aygulf, the beach has fine sand, and bordered along much of its length by a promenade shaded by palm trees along the pathway.  An added attraction is that every Sunday along the seafront, producers, craftspeople and market gardeners offer a wide selection of fresh fruit and vegetables, seafood, local cheeses, cold meats and charcuterie.  Stalls also display a large selection of clothing, household utensils, toys, home décor accessories and furniture, as well as flowers and plants.

On Wednesday and Saturday mornings, right in the centre of the historic town, on a hill above the waterfront, local producers and craftspeople fill the nearby streets and picturesque squares with Provençal and Mediterranean flavours and colours of locally-grown herbs, olive oils and wines from the nearby Var region, as well as locally-caught seafood, shellfish and fish, and crafts such as pottery.  In the summer months, there’s a delightful night market along the waterfront selling works by local artists and craftspeople, jewellery and fashion accessories, toys and other goodies.

The historic town today is a fascinating and varied testament to the rich cultural heritage of the civilisations that have inhabited the area.  The first inhabitants are thought to have been the Celto-Ligurian people, who settled around the natural harbour.  The remains of a defensive wall are still visible on Mont Auriasque and Cap Capelin, up in the Massif d’Esterel mountains to the north-east of Fréjus. The Phocaeans (not to be confused with the Phoenicians!) of Marseille later established an outpost on the site.

Fréjus was strategically situated at an important crossroads formed by the Via Julia Augusta—which ran between Italy and the Rhône—and the Via Domitia.  Although there are only a few traces of a settlement at that time, it’s known that the poet Cornelius Gallus was born there in 67 BCE.  Julius Caesar wanted to supplant Massalia (Marseilles), so established the town as Forum Julii, meaning ‘market of Julius’.  The Roman historian Tacitus also named this port “claustra maris”(gateway to the sea).  The Forum Julii is mentioned in correspondence between Plancus and Cicero around 43 BCE.  It was at Forum Julii that Octavius (who later became the Emperor Augustus) repatriated the galley ships taken from Mark Antony at the Battle of Actium in 31 BCE, and between 29 and 27 BCE, it became a colony for his veterans of the 8^th legion, adding the suffix Octavanorum Colonia.

Augustus made the growing city the capital of the new Roman province of Narbonensis in 22 BCE, which spurred on rapid, new development.

It became one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean, and its port was the only naval base for the Roman fleet of Gaul.  It remained operative until the reign of the Emperor Claudius, second only to the port of Ostia in Italy until the time of Nero.

Subsequently, under the reign of Tiberius, the major monuments and amenities still visible today were constructed, namely the amphitheatre, the aqueduct, the lantern, baths and theatre.  Impressive walls over 3.70 kms in length were erected to protect an area of around 35 hectares that had about 6,000 inhabitants. It became an important market town for craft and agricultural production.  The mining of green sandstone and blue porphyry, as well as fish farming contributed to the thriving economy.

In 40 CE Gnaeus Julius Agricola, who later completed the Roman conquest of Britain, was born in Forum Julii.  He was the father-in-law of the historian Tacitus, whose biography of Agricola mentions that Forum Julii was an “ancient and illustrious colony.”  The city was also mentioned several times in the writings of Strabo and Pliny the Elder.

In the 4^th century, the Diocese of Fréjus was created, which became the second largest after Lyon.  The first church was built in 374 with the election of a bishop.  However, the decay of the Roman empire led to that of its cities throughout its territories.

Up in Fréjus, the Roman amphitheatre—often referred to as the Arena—dominates.  When it was built, it was one of the most imposing in Gaul, with a seating capacity of 12,000 people.  Today, it continues to be the venue for shows and performances throughout the year—in line with its original purpose.  It’s open from Thursday to Saturday, closed on holidays.

The Romans also built the nearby 1^st Century CE theatre that also hosts live shows and an outdoor cinema program in the summer months of June – August.  Have a quick look at the aqueduct close by, once over 42 kms long, of which there are a few columns still remaining.  Just out of the historic centre of town, on Chemin de la Lanterne d’Auguste, is another monument of the Roman period, the Lantern of Augustus.  This 10m high hexagonal structure once stood at the entrance to the port as a landmark for sailors, although it was not, as was once thought, a lighthouse.

The only standing vestige of a vast Roman thermal complex is the Porte d’Orée near rue des Moulins—sometimes inaccurately written as “Porte Dorée”, as it was thought to have been the remains of the southern gate on the edge of the city.  Listed as a Historical Monument in 1886, it is located in the northwest of the Roman port, and corresponds to the arch into the cold room (frigidarium) of the baths.  The Roman town walls are situated at the Clos de la Tour.  The route of the wall follows the relief of the rocky hill on which Fréjus was constructed.

The medieval heart of the town is one of the main drawcards of Fréjus.  The centre is the very pretty Place Camille Formigé.  Pastel-coloured shuttered townhouses line two sides of the market square while the elegant orange façade of the Hotel de Ville and striking Cité Episcopale, or cathedral close, are along the other sides.  Large plane trees and olive trees in tubs, and several delightful-looking cafes complete this typical Provençal scene.

The cathedral of the episcopal group marks the entry of the bishopric in the region in the year 374.  Its beautiful octagonal Baptistery (Baptistière) dates from around the early 5^th century, just as Roman power was declining.  One of the oldest and best preserved examples of early Christian architecture in France, it is adorned with granite columns that have been re-used and date from antiquity, and five of them come from the Turkish city of Ezine.

The octagonal baptismal font was only rediscovered in the 1920s, having been built over in the 13^th century.  The lovely cloister needed considerable restoration after the Revolution, and again between 1922 and 1931, along with an old well, a former Roman cistern.  There’s a very good archaeological museum next to the cloister houses that has a scale model of the Roman town and a fine collection of Roman artefacts, very well displayed.

The first bishop’s residence was built to the south of the cathedral in the 5^th century, and later altered in the 11^th and 12^th centuries.  It too was badly damaged during the Revolution and sold as national property at that time.  The city of Fréjus bought it and after restoration in 1823, returned it to the church.  After the separation of the church and the state in 1905, the city of Fréjus asked for the property back, and the palace officially became the Hotel de Ville of Fréjus in 1912.

Since 1987, Fréjus has been designated as a “City of Art and History,” which means it has demonstrated a commitment to preserving its archaeological and architectural heritage.  The local community and its leadership have been recognised for their awareness and sensitivity for the architectural treasures from all periods and for all time.

Fréjus is also part of the Circuit des Metiers d’Art, that revives a tradition that had died out in the 18^th century, which had its origin in the pottery shops located inside the ancient city itself.  As a member of the network “City of Artisan Crafts”, Fréjus strives to promote the installation of workshops of local resident artists, which means there is a good selection of these crafts to discover.

There are any number of outdoor terraces and delightful places to eat or simply enjoy a drink in Fréjus and Saint-Raphael—which merge into each other, it’s impossible to say where one ends and the other begins.  Aside from the waterfront cafes, a lovely place to have lunch is Place Fevrier, the square near the church in Fréjus.

In and around Fréjus and St Raphael there are also several wineries where you can wander around and taste delicious local wines. Some of the wineries in the area are Les Celliers du Sud at 168 rue Henri Vadon near the Roman Amphitheatre, La Cave des Cariatides in rue Sieyes in the historic centre, and Château de Paquette on Chemin de Curebéasse, Fréjus.  There are others somewhat out of town, but ask about all of them at the Tourist Office in Fréjus in rue Jean Jaures in the historic centre.

As well as its pretty beaches, ports full of millionaires’ yachts and many coastal resorts, there is such a lot to see and do in this lovely town, especially its historic centre, which adds a wider dimension to a Riviera holiday.

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The Côte d’Azur has so many wonderful attractions, many of which aren’t associated with beaches, famous luxury hotels or shopping—although the area offers plenty of all those!  If you’d like a little time out from the activities of the cities, beaches and what we think of as the typical Riviera pursuits, think about heading up into the surrounding hills and little villages perched on the slopes that dot the landscape, so near and yet so far.  We try and make time to explore a couple of these whenever we’re in the area, and have loved discovering such gems as Tourrettes-sur-Loup and La Turbie.  There are also a couple of absolutely delightful train trips, such as the Train des Pignes, up into the beautiful mountain areas that can really enhance a Riviera holiday.

It’s fairly certain that the majority of Riviera visitors are there for the beaches, great places to eat, shopping for resort-style fashion—the alluring Mediterranean attractions.  To round out a stay in this region, a day trip or two up into the hinterland is to discover some of the most beautiful terrain, small towns and villages in the entire country.  We’ve already had a look at St Paul de Vence and Vence in the last story, but a number of other destinations are within easy reach of Nice, in particular.

At only 14 kms from the coast, between Nice and Cannes, 8 kms from St Paul de Vence and just 5 kms from Vence, lies Tourrettes-sur-Loup, a charming medieval village which is well worth a detour.  Perched on a rocky outcrop surrounded by a beautiful landscape, the village seems to conquer all beneath it with its tall houses built along its ramparts.

The best way to discover Tourrettes-sur-Loup is by wandering around its attractive, narrow streets, its vaulted passageways, admiring the well-restored stone façades and slowly climbing up some of the stepped passages, bordered with colourful flower baskets.  The village isn’t called “the violet village” for nothing, since for over a century, this pretty little flower has been grown in the village.  It’s honoured each March with a flower festival, decorated floats and a battle of the flowers.

The heart of the historic centre of the village is the Grand Rue that follows the circumference of the village, where you’ll see about 30 artists’ workshops, galleries and crafts workshops making jewellery, pottery, paintings, fabrics and more.  In a small square is a must-see, the Hotel de Ville, that was originally the small Château des Villeneuve, dating from the 15^th century.  A delightful outdoor market takes place every Wednesday morning at Place de la Libération, where you can stock up on a variety of goodies and local produce.  Also have a look at a lovely 16^th century church, Saint Gregoire.

Getting to Tourrettes-sur-Loup from Nice by public transport isn’t difficult.  Take bus no. 09 from Nice’s Grand Arenas bus stop to Vence, which takes around 46 mins., then transfer onto bus no. 651 to Tourrettes-sur-Loup.  Or you can take a train from Nice Ville, the main railway station, to Cagnes-sur-Mer, which takes around 15 mins., then from there, more or less across the road is the bus stop, Square du 08 Mai.  Catch a bus no. 09 to Vence, which will take around 18 mins., then bus no. 651 across to Tourrettes-sur-Loup, which is less than 15 mins. away.  Sounds messy, but actually very do-able.  Of course, easiest and most direct of all is to drive, which takes around 30 mins.  The road goes through Cagnes-sur-Mer, then via St Paul de Vence and Vence.

Another lovely day out is to head to La Turbie, slightly north of Monaco, on the spectacular Grand Corniche road that runs from Nice to Monaco—one of the great scenic highlights of this region.

The town is especially famous for the large Roman monument, La Trophée d’Auguste (Trophy of Augustus), erected around 6 BCE to celebrate the Emperor’s victory over the Ligurian tribes of the area.

The monument once featured an enormous statue of Augustus on top.  The views from the monument are breathtaking—among the best on the Riviera.  Apart from La Trophée, one of the biggest drawcards of La Tubie is the scenic viewpoint of Tete du Chien (literally: Dog’s Head) that overlooks Monaco.  This spot is an easy 20-25 min. slightly uphill walk that takes you out to the edge of the cliffs overlooking the coastline below.

During the Middle Ages the village was mainly under the dominion of the Republic of Genoa.  Dante wrote in his ‘Divina Commedia’ that Turbia was the western limit of the Italian Liguria.  It was also alternatively part of Savoy and the Principality of Monaco, from where the local population assimilated the Monegasque dialect mixed with a local version of the Ligurian dialect.  La Turbie is very small, and has largely kept its charm and authenticity, with its harmonious mix of classic, medieval and baroque architecture.  Much of the village’s earliest buildings were built using stones from the Roman monument.  There are 4 Portails, or medieval gates, to the village located around the perimeter of the historic village.  You can see the ramparts from the Middle Ages, stroll along the cobblestone streets and through arched passageways, pass by a Romanesque fountain and a beautiful Baroque church with its square belltower.  There are plenty of restaurants and cafes in which to relax.  There are also a couple of hotels, one of which we understand has a Michelin-starred restaurant.

La Turbie is also the cradle of mountain car races.  This started on 31 January 1897, when the last stage of the Marseilles-Nice race was a 17 km. hill climb between Nice and La Turbie.  This race was won by Andre Michelin, behind the wheel of a De Dion steam-powered engine, that reached an astonishing speed of 31.8 km p/hr!  Another, more unfortunate event occurred on 13 September 1982 when Princess Grace of Monaco was killed in a car accident at Cap d’Ail, near La Turbie on the Route de la Turbie road.

Getting to La Turbie from Nice is straightforward.  Take a train from Nice Ville station to Gare de Monaco-Monte Carlo and then bus no. 603 from the railway station up to La Turbie, which will take around 25 mins.

For something completely different for a great day out of Nice, the Train des Pignes is a scenic train ride from the coast up into the mountains.

The train uses Gare de Nice at 4, Rue Alfred Binet, about 6 blocks from the main railway station.  It runs on the Chemins de Fer de Provence railway line, which is a separate rail service from the SNCF and does not use the same stations.  This connects Nice on the Riviera with the historic town of Digne Les-Bains, in the heart of Haute Provence, taking you from the sea to (potentially) snow-capped mountains in just 3 hrs 30 mins.  The Train des Pignes passes through two regions:  the Alpes-Maritime Alps and the Alpes de Haut de-Provence.  Along the way, you peer down into deep gorges, and pass gentle olive groves, fields of Provençal herbs and medieval fortresses.

The idea for the Train des Pignes was proposed in 1861, but due to the many construction challenges of the terrain, it was not until 1911 that the line finally reached Nice.  The route covers a distance 150 kms, with 25 tunnels, 16 viaducts and 15 metal bridges.  The new trains on the route have large windows that allow travellers to fully enjoy the passing landscape:  uninterrupted vistas of waterways, mountains, gorges and valleys, some of which are not accessible by car.  The ride is a great, scenic adventure!  However, there is also the option of taking the recently restored historic steam train.  Check with the Nice Tourist Office for specific details.  The name ‘Train des Pignes’ comes from the pine-cones that were once used as tinder to start the steam engines of the original trains.

The journey begins through the city streets of Nice, then passes through a few tunnels to the little stations of La Madeleine and St Isidore before dropping down to the Var valley and Lingostiere station.  Along the Var river the train stops at various stations along the way to Plan-du-Var.  From there, at the mouth of the rugged Gorges de Vésubie, then the gorges of the Var river.  Stops along this section include the villages of Villars-sur-Var, the tiny 12^th century village of Touet-sur-Var, and Puget-Theniers, where the steam trains are garaged.

After Puget-Theniers, it’s only a few minutes to the station at the fortified village of Entrevaux and its high Vauban fortress, which guards a narrow gap in the mountains.  Then the train continues along the deep river valleys through hills and west towards Annot, which is at the other end of the steam-train section.  A few minutes after Annot, at the little village of Le Fugeret, in the beautiful Vaire river valley, the train climbs up through a tunnel and loops around on itself in order to gain enough altitude to continue north.

There’s a stop at the mountain side below the little perched village of Méailles—you need to inform the conductor when you get on if you wish to alight here—down into river valleys alongside rivers, through the mountain park area of the Trois Asses.  Huge birds of prey such as buzzards and harriers, are a common sight up here.  Then there’s the final stretch into Digne-les-Bains.  Bear in mind that the train ticket allows passengers to take a later train back to Nice, or even stay overnight at Digne, perhaps take one of the hiking trails, or simply relax and explore the town.

Dignes is an important centre for growing lavender for the perfume industry and especially lavender essential oil.  If you want to see hectares and hectares of the plant, and with the air heavy with its perfume, plan on visiting between 15 June and the end of July.  The flowering lasts until the end of August, but lavender is harvested from the second half of July.

However, long after the harvest, the air is still fragrant with the scent from the cut plants.  Since 1939, every year on the first weekend of August in Digne, the town celebrates its best-known crop with parades of decorated floats, locals dressed in traditional Provençal costume, musical groups, a fun fair and evening fireworks.  The town has a Lavender Museum that tells the story of the cultivation and uses for its famous plant.

There are so many more wonderful things and sights to explore in this part of France, that I haven’t even touched on, such as Gourdon, Saorge, Saint Agnes, or Peillon, just to name a few more spectacular villages in the Alpes-Maritimes—enough to fill many happy days.  Instead of spending all your time in the cities and coastal resorts, add an extra day or two to discover some of these other delights as well.