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Paris – The City of Love

DISCOVER THE BEAUTIFUL MUSÉE RODIN IN PARIS

The Hôtel Biron is now the Musee Rodin Without doubt, the Musée Rodin is one of the loveliest museums in Paris.  This has as much to do with the beautiful garden as the fabulous collection itself.  We first visited this museum back in the ‘70s, and revisit it as often as …

DISCOVER RUE CLER – A CELEBRATED MARKET STREET IN PARIS

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There is a great choice of the very best fresh produce available along rue Cler. Paris is famous for its many outdoor markets, and pretty much every arrondissement has at least one and there are supposedly around 80 such markets across the city.  These are almost always t…

BARON HAUSSMANN: VISIONARY FOR MODERN PARIS OR VANDAL OF HISTORY?

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The Champs Elysees was one of Haussmann’s most notable achievements. The Paris we know today has only existed, in large part, since the mid-19th century.  Before then, much of the medieval city was a dark, overcrowded and unhealthy place.  The wide, tree-lined boulevards and fine, creamy stone buildings we enjoy and admire today are mostly due to one man, Georges-Eugène Haussmann.  The dra…

EXPLORING THE LATIN QUARTER, THE OLDEST ARRONDISSEMENT IN PARIS – PART 2

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The magnificent Pantheon is a Latin Quarter landmark. As we’ve seen from our Part One exploration of the Latin Quarter, there’s enough to keep anyone occupied for many days, as well as taking time to simply sit and enjoy people-watching, and the atmosphere of the area in a local café.  This Quartier also offers a wide selection of accommodation, as well as excellent public transport to tak…

EXPLORING THE LATIN QUARTER, THE OLDEST ARRONDISSEMENT IN PARIS – PART 1

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Looking across to the Latin Quarter from the top of Notre Dame. A city as ancient and as large as Paris has an almost overwhelming number of sights to take in.  Fortunately, one advantage that Paris has, is that so many of its attractions are within the Périphérique, or ring-road, that defines the arrondissements, or districts, from the areas outside that.  As well, Paris has a wonderful, …

PARIS NAVIGO PASSES – THE BEST WAY TO EXPLORE THE CITY, AND BEYOND. HOW TO GET AROUND PARIS LIKE A LOCAL

Pais is a huge city, and fortunately has an excellent public transport system to allow you to explore it. About 5 or 6 years ago, I wrote a blog story about the Paris Navigo Pass and its uses.  It is indeed the only way to get around Paris these days.  Since then, its use has expanded to include the relatively new tram system that circles the city.  I know from conversations I have with fr…

ART NOUVEAU RESTAURANTS OF THE BELLE EPOQUE IN PARIS

Restaurant La Tour d’Argent in the Latin Quarter, overlooking the River Seine. One of the great attractions with Paris is that it is, as everyone knows, a great food destination.  Whether it’s the many outdoor produce markets (some sources say 69, others say over 80!), or the wide variety of bistros, brasseries, restaurants and famous landmarks such as La Tour d’Argent that boast impressiv…

THE ELEGANCE AND LUXURY OF AVENUE MONTAIGNE, PARIS

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Christian Dior, 30 Avenue Montaigne. For anyone with an interest in high fashion, it’s generally acknowledged that Paris is a world leader, if not the leader, in haute couture.  For decades, the top street for Parisian couture houses was the Faubourg St Honore.  It was his desire to assert his own vision and originality that Christian Dior opened his couture house in 1947 on Avenue Montaig…

THE ALBERT KAHN GARDENS, A HIDDEN PARADISE IN PARIS

The Albert Kahn Japanese garden in autumn. We had been aware of this beautiful place in Paris for quite a few years, but due to so many other distractions in the city, had never managed to get there.  Whenever we came across a reference to it, or someone mentioned it, typical descriptions were that it was a quiet haven, an exquisite retreat covering 4 hectares, and a little-known, almost-h…

THE MAGNIFICENT BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE DE FRANCE HAS FINALLY RE-OPENED

The spectacular Reading Room, with its Byzantine-inspired multi-domed ceiling. We had been walking past this enormous complex for years speculating about when it might re-open, wondering if we’d ever get to visit it one day.  Imagine our surprise and delight when we saw the enormous posters announcing its re-opening in the metro stations on our first day back in Paris!  It was still closed …

THE MYSTERIOUS KNIGHTS TEMPLARS AND THE ORIGINS OF THE MARAIS DISTRICT –

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A depiction by Hoffbauer of the Enclos du Temple in 15450. Photo, Alamy This district of Paris is one of the most historic and fascinating in the city.  Nowadays, it’s known for hip boutiques, quirky art galleries, great cafes, restaurants and fresh food, a couple of delightful squares, and some of the best museums in the city.  Although its origins were far from auspicious, it’s a place we…

LE MARCHÉ BASTILLE-RICHARD LENOIR—A GUARANTEED CULINARY ADVENTURE

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The Marche Bastille – Richard-Lenoir. Photo, Alamy There are dozens of outdoor markets in Paris, at least two in each of the city’s 20 arrondissements.  Probably the largest, and many argue the best, is the fantastic Marché Richard-Lenoir—more commonly called the Marche Bastille, held Thursdays and Sundays along the grand Boulevard Richard Lenoir, just north of the Place de la Bastille.  Th…

DISCOVERING THE BEAUTIFUL PARC MONCEAU AND ITS ELEGANT NEIGHBOURHOOD

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The classical colonnade and pond in Parc Monceau. Photo, Alamy In the last two posts, we have looked at two outstanding Paris museums, relatively little-known to visitors, both located in the 8th arrondissement, one just around the corner from the other.  They are both close by the Parc Monceau, one of the most interesting and beautiful parks in the city, at the junction of Bvd. de Courcell…

THE CERNUSCHI MUSEUM OF ASIAN ART, PARIS

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The grand staircase of the Musee Cernuschi. Photo, Alamy The Musée Cernuschi is relatively unknown to most visitors to Paris.  Located on a quiet, leafy street that leads up to the beautiful Parc Monceau in an ultra-exclusive area of the 8th arrondissement, it’s just around the corner from the Musée Nissim de Camondo.  The Cernuschi is an Asian art museum, mostly specialising in works from …

A FEAST OF FESTIVALS IN FRANCE

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One of the many fabulous displays made of citrus fruit during the Fete du Citron, Menton. From history to fantasy, and everything in between, there are plenty of festivals in France where you can experience the country’s vibrant culture.  These events celebrate everything from the latest movies, the medieval period, art, wine, parks & gardens, kites, lemons, and dragons, to theatre, ope…

L’HÔTEL DE LA MARINE – A TOUCH OF VERSAILLES IN THE HEART OF PARIS

Th Hotel de la Marine faces onto Place de la Concorde. If you’ve been to Paris more than once, very likely you have been past the Hôtel de la Marine.  This is not a hotel in which you stay, but a hôtel particulier of epic proportions.  A “real” hotel, the historic, luxury Hôtel de Crillon, is adjacent.  These opulent 18th century buildings are a perfectly balanced pair facing onto Place de …

LA SAMARITAINE, AN ICONIC PARISIAN DEPARTMENT STORE REBORN

The beautifully restored Art Nouveau interior of La Samaritaine.  La Samaritaine has finally re-emerged, like the phoenix rising, if not from the ashes, from a long hibernation of neglect and deterioration that left a gap on the city skyline between the river Seine and the busy rue de Rivoli.  Its recent re-opening was a much anticipated event.  After 16 long years of closure, renovations, …

A PARISIAN LANDMARK REIMAGINED: LA BOURSE DE COMMERCE–PINAULT COLLECTION

La Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Collection.  Over the last two years, despite the severe COVID restrictions, Paris somehow managed to work on a number of extraordinary cultural projects, most of which have now opened.  These were not small-scale ventures by any means.  As I’ve mentioned previously, two of these were the complete refurbishment of the enormous Musée Carnavalet, now re-opened, a…

LA GALERIE DIOR – A HOMAGE TO THE ARTISTRY OF THE ‘MASTER OF DREAMS’

Poster of the 1947 Bar Suit from the ‘Corolle’ collection by Christian Dior.  Near the top of our list of must-sees on our recent visit to Paris was the Christian Dior museum, La Galerie Dior, which I briefly mentioned in the last blog.  I had read about its official opening, just 3 weeks before we hit town.  A good friend of ours, the manager of the beautiful Zegna menswear boutique on Ave…

PARIS—AND THE REST OF FRANCE—ARE BACK IN BUSINESS!

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A perfect spring day in the Upper Marais.  As some of you know, we have just returned from 5 weeks in France.  It was a truly wonderful trip, spending 3 weeks in Paris before heading down to the glorious Burgundy district for almost 2 weeks.  Like everyone for whom travel is an essential part of life, we were anxious to spread our wings and head back to our favourite destination after the C…

MUSÉE NISSIM DE CAMONDO – A MAGNIFICENT MANSION DEDICATED TO THE 18TH CENTURY

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The design of the mansion was inspired by the Petit Trianon at Versailles.  There are so many wonderful museums in Paris, selecting which ones to visit when you’ve got limited time is a challenge.  We certainly have our favourites, and we also keep an eye on websites of Paris cultural institutions to check if there will be any special shows on during our next visit.  One of our favourites s…

A NEW WAVE OF MUSEUM RESTAURANTS IN PARIS

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Girafe Restaurant at the Cite de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, Palais de Chaillot.  In a city that boasts over 140 museums, and a food culture that’s worth travelling from the other side of the world for, it a natural fit that there are going to be cafes and restaurants in certain Paris museums that are as worth visiting as the museums themselves.  Some museum restaurants have become ico…

MUSEE GUIMET – 5,000 YEARS OF ASIAN ART IN PARIS

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The Naga on the Causeway of the Giants, 12th century Cambodian.  When we think of museums in Paris, what immediately springs to mind are the internationally famous institutions such as the Louvre, Quai d’Orsay, Pompidou Centre, and perhaps the recent addition of the Fondation Louis Vuitton.  But Paris also has the largest and most important collection of Asian artefacts in Europe at the Mus…

PALAIS GALLIERA – THE PARIS MUSEUM OF FASHION

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Palais Galliera in its garden setting.  A stone’s throw from some of the most prestigious haute couture houses and designer boutiques in the city, the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris is housed in the Italian Renaissance-inspired Palais Galliera.  The museum preserves some of the richest collections in the world, estimated at around 200,000 items of clothing, accessories, photographs, …

THE TROCADERO – PANORAMIC VIEWS, BEAUTIFUL GARDENS, FOUR MAJOR CULTURAL INSTITUTIONS, AND A SUPRISING SECRET

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The vast Palais de Chaillot complex at the Trocadero. Situated on the opposite side of the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, the Trocadéro is well and truly on the must-visit list for offering the best view of the most recognisable monument in Paris.  It is also home to beautiful gardens, ornamental ponds and fountains that stretch down to the river, as well as the richness of the Palais de Chai…

PASSY – WHERE QUIET VILLAGE CHARM MEETS CULTURE & LUXURY

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An Art Nouveau residential building in Passy  The 16th arrondissement of Paris is best known to visitors for its great landmarks and museums, from the Musée Marmottan-Monet, the Palais Galliera and Musée Guimet, to the Place de la Trocadero and the Palais Chaillot,  affording dramatic views of the Eiffel Tower on the opposite bank of the Seine.  But the 16th also has corners of quiet, resid…

RUE OBERKAMPF – A VIBRANT PARISIAN NEIGHBOURHOOD

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The Cirque d’Hiver.  Beyond the iconic Place de la Republique—where Parisians gathered in their thousands after the 2015 attacks on their city—is a fascinating network of streets crammed with some of the city’s hippest venues, chic bars, great bistros, old craft workshops and up-and-coming designer boutiques.  In Paris’ 11th arrondissement, rue Oberkampf and the streets around it offer an i…

TWO SECRET VILLAGES IN PARIS

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La Butte aux Cailles is a delightful location for a quiet stroll.  If you’ve been to Paris a few times, no doubt you’ve taken in the big, headline monuments and sites such as the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Louvre, walked along the Champs Elysees and shopped ’til you dropped in Galeries Lafayette.  These iconic places are internationally famous for a very good reason, but for your next v…

THE REMARKABLE LIFE OF JOSEPHINE BAKER – CABARET STAR, RESISTANCE HEROINE, ACTIVIST AND OWNER OF A DORDOGNE CHATEAU

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Josephine wearing her famous banana costume. Iconic entertainer of the Jazz Age, famous for her risqué performances, Josephine Baker’s extraordinary story is one of perseverance, bravery, and incredible talent.  She was a force to be reckoned with, whether fighting racism in her native America or spying on top Nazis.  She found new ways to challenge those who sought to diminish or silence h…

WHEN A PARIS PÉNICHE IS MORE THAN JUST A BARGE

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A variety of boats & peniches moored along the Seine in Paris.  One of the most pleasant ways to relax in Paris is to take a stroll along the banks of the Seine.  It’s a busy, working river with a constant flow of craft of all descriptions.  Ranging from the many tourist boats crammed with sightseers enjoying the unique perspective of the city’s great landmarks from the river, to seriou…

GREAT FOOD MARKETS TO DISCOVER IN PARIS

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Springtime at Marche d’Aligre: perfect asparagus & morels.  One of the great pleasures of a visit to Paris is spending time exploring the many wonderful food markets.  You can take your pick from 69 open-air and 13 covered markets in the city, meaning that some arrondissements have more than one market.  Everyone has their personal favourites, and we certainly have ours, but we also lov…

THE MUSÉE MARMOTTAN MONET – A LITTLE-KNOWN GEM IN PARIS

‘Impression, Sunrise’ by Monet, which inspired the name of the Impressionist movement. A description that’s often used to describe the Musée Marmottan Monet is that it’s a “hidden” gem.  Rather, I’d say it’s perhaps more overlooked than hidden, given its location in the chic Passy neighbourhood in the 16th arr. on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne, beside one of the loveliest parks in Paris….

LE CHÂTEAU DE VINCENNES – A MEDIEVAL FORTRESS IN PARIS

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Th medieval fortress of Chateau de Vincennes.  When you think of châteaux in the Paris area, Versailles is likely the first that would spring to mind.  For its sheer beauty, opulence and size, not to mention the wonderful gardens and parklands surrounding it, it’s no wonder that Versailles is one of the most visited destinations in the entire country.  However, for those who have “been ther…

WHEN SHOPS TRANSFORM INTO ‘CONCEPT’ STORES

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A small Parisian fashion studio that concentrates on handwork embellishment.  Paris has long been famous as a world capital of fashion and design, but it is also a city with a wealth of exciting design concept stores bursting with products unique to France.  It’s a country and a society with a history of commitment to artisan craft skills, a deep appreciation of the handmade object, innovat…

RUE MOUFFETARD – A PARIS STREET PAVED WITH HISTORY

There are many delightful cafes in rue Mouffetard. Around every corner of Paris you will find streets full of history.  The secret to discovering the real Paris is to detour off the grand boulevards, famous squares and enticing shopping streets.  If you delight in discovering special places, little nooks and crannies, narrow, ancient, pedestrianised streets beloved by locals but unknown to …

DISCOVER THE RICHES OF THE MARCHÉ AUX PUCES, PARIS

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Marche Paul Bert. To call the Marché aux Puces in Paris a “flea market” is an understatement.  Regarded as the largest market of its kind in the world and with around 180,000-200,000 visitors each weekend, at first sight its sheer size can be a very daunting prospect.  It is in fact a whole series of markets, segmented according to category and price level, ranging from vendors selling muse…

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD – HOW TO SHOP AND EAT LIKE A LOCAL IN PARIS

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Said to be the oldest patisserie in Paris, Stohrer is in rue Montorgueil.  Paris is Europe’s most densely populated city, and offers a mind-boggling array of food offers.  There are even local Parisian products available, if you know where to look.  One of the great advantages of renting an apartment rather than staying in a hotel is that you can explore so many wonderful culinary treats fr…

ALL DRESSED UP FOR CHRISTMAS!

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Printemps Dept. store on Bvd. Haussmann.  France is famous for its illuminations during the festive season.  Despite the huge drop in numbers of visitors, and almost in defiance of the difficulties faced by everyone during this extraordinary year, Paris in particular is dressed with its usual impressive lighting displays to celebrate the holiday season.

ART NOUVEAU TREASURES OF THE PARISIAN BELLE ÉPOQUE

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Cnr. rue de l’Eglise & Place Etienne Pernet, 15th arr.  The Belle Époque lasted from the 1870s to the beginning of World War One, and was at its height in Paris during the 1890s and 1900s.  It was a period of great optimism and cultural innovation.  It was an exciting time for art and theatre, as well as a new architectural movement generally referred to as Art Nouveau, which swept acro…

STEPPING BACK IN TIME: DISCOVERING ROMAN PARIS

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The Musee de Cluny, with the Roman figidarium.  There aren’t many regions in Western Europe that were not once occupied by the Romans, and the city of Paris is no exception.  When we think of modern day Paris, it’s probably more likely to be medieval marvels such as Notre Dame or Sainte Chapelle, perhaps monuments of the French Renaissance, Classical revival, the Belle Epoque, and of course…

MATISSE: A MAJOR RETROSPECTIVE IN PARIS

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‘Sorrows of the King’ by Matisse, 1952. The Pompidou Centre is celebrating the 150th anniversary of the birth of Henri Matisse, one of the most important artists of the 20th century.  This special exhibition uses a novel published in 1971 by Louis Aragon, Henri Matisse: Roman as a framework to display not only 230 works, but also over 70 documents, books and archives related to him.

AN ENTIRE WEEKEND CELBRATING A NATION’S HERITAGE

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Journees Europeennes du Patrimoine 2020 poster.  Every year in September, most European countries devote an entire weekend to the celebration and exploration of their cultural heritage through the European Heritage Days program.  This year in France it was held on 19th – 20th of the month celebrating the theme “Heritage and Education:  Learning for Life”. Public and private owners of his…

CELEBRATING CULTURE AT AN ALL NIGHT FESTIVAL

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Poster for the 2020 European Nuit des Musees. The idea of celebrating culture with an annual all-night event that brings together all ages and tastes, started back in 1982 and has since become a world-wide phenomenon.  In France, the Fête de la Musique is held on 21 June every year, and La Nuit des Musées falls around the middle of May.  Events are free, hugely popular, with a festive atmos…

DISCOVER THE CANAL SAINT-MARTIN NEIGHBOURHOOD IN PARIS

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Take a leisurely cruise along the Canal Saint-Martin. For many visitors to Paris, if they know of its existence at all, the attraction of a leisurely boat ride along the Canal St. Martin lies in its being a great way to relax after a frenetic few days packed with sightseeing, or a few too many shopping trips.  Delightful as a canal trip is, there is a whole lot more to this northern part of…

EXPERIENCE THE UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE OF A CONCERT IN A PARIS CHURCH

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A concert in the magnificent Sainte Chapelle.  If you’ve never attended a concert in one of the many historic churches in Paris, you’re in for a very special treat.  The wonderful acoustics, soaring ceilings, beautiful stained-glass windows, timeless stone sculptures and sometimes priceless paintings, all combine to create an atmosphere that cannot be experienced in a regular concert venue.

DISCOVERING THE PALAIS-ROYAL, PARIS

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The Palais-Royal and Gardens.  It has always come as a surprise to us that the Palais-Royal, although situated in the heart of Paris, is so often missed by visitors.  Perhaps it’s because the entrance isn’t obvious or perhaps visitors are distracted by a visit to the Louvre, which is opposite.  For a weary visitor, the beautiful gardens of the historic Palais-Royal are a haven of peace and …

THE REMARKABLE STORIES OF THE THREE PARIS PAGODAS – Part 2

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La Pagoda Paris is unmissable on its prominent street corner.  This story continues on from my previous post about one of the three Paris pagodas, the Japanese-style pagoda, known as La Pagode, which was converted to a much-loved cinema.  The other two are equally fascinating, with their own surprising stories to tell. The three Paris Pagodas are as visually startling, unexpected delight…

THE REMARKABLE PARIS PAGODAS – Part 1

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When the cinema was known as LaPagode de Babylone.  Paris has three remarkable and unusual pagodas.  Curiously, only one of them was built as a shrine.  Of the other two, one is bold and conspicuous, while the other is discreet and hidden within a dense bamboo and ginko garden.  What the three have in common is that their histories are fascinating, with just a hint of mystery.

REJUVENATING THE CHAMPS ÉLYSÉES

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The Champs Elysees.  The Champs Élysées is surely the iconic avenue in Paris.  It conjures up images of a wide, tree-lined boulevard lined with magnificent Beaux-Art style buildings occupied by elegant designer boutiques, discreet luxury hotels, the famous Lido cabaret, and like a giant exclamation mark, the Arc de Triomphe marking the summit.  The reality though is that over the last few y…

THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING EXCITING ON IN PARIS

One of the fabulous shoes at the Christian Louboutin show at the Palais de la Porte Doree.  Trying to distil the huge number of exhibitions and concerts happening in any year in Paris into a list of highlights is an almost impossible task.  This year is no exception, but any year will have so many visual feasts and surprises, it’s one of the great pleasures, and dilemmas, in planning a visit.

So, what’s good about Paris in the Winter

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Galeries Lafayette always has magnificent Christmas decorations The thing we especially look forward to at this time of year is heading to the northern hemisphere for a couple of weeks.  It’s a welcome break from heat, humidity, and right now the heartbreaking drought conditions that’s affecting so much of our wide, brown (read: burnt) land.  We love the whole, over-the-top festive razzamat…

New Etchings of Paris – by Rodney Moss

Notre Dame from the Seine, etching by Rodney Moss 2019. Photo, Ben Wrigley Paris Plus Plus has great pleasure in presenting the first three etchings of sketches of Paris by well-known Australian architect-turned-artist, Rodney Moss. Rodney has generously offered to donate all profit from the sale of Notre Dame from the Seine to the Notre Dame Restoration Fund, established by the French Gove…

FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON – FRANK GEHRY’S MODERN MASTERPIECE FOR PARIS

A bird’s eye view of Fondation Louis Vuitton.  “I dream of designing a magnificent vessel for Paris that symbolises France’s profound cultural vocation.” With these words, the famous Canadian-American architect, creator of Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum (1997), gave his blessing to the opening, in October 2014, of his latest masterpiece, the Fondation Louis Vuitton, Paris.  We were lucky e…

THE VIADUC DES ARTS—ARTISANS’ PRECINCT & ELEVATED LINEAR GARDEN OASIS

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The arches of the Viaduc des Arts are filled with cafes and artisan businesses. Built in 1859, this former elevated railway viaduct came into Paris from the east, terminating at Place de la Bastille in the 12th arr.  After the creation of the RER A line in 1969 the Viaduc de Bastille became redundant, gradually declining into another example of neglect and decay that was slated for demoliti…

THE BEAUTIFUL PASSAGES COUVERTS OF PARIS

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The famous passages couverts—covered passages—of Paris were an early form of shopping arcades, mostly dating from the first half of the 19th century.  By the 1850s, there were around 150 covered passages in Paris, although Haussmann’s massive urban renewal program of Paris saw a number of these demolished.  Of those that remain, some are still dusty and forgotten, awaiting revitalisation, but there are many that have been beautifully restored to their original Ar…

DISCOVER SOME OF THE BEST FLEA MARKETS IN FRANCE

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You can find anything at a French brocante!  France is a great place to pick up bargain vintage wares.  If a visit to a flea market, rummaging through racks of vintage fashion, or just the thrill of the chase, hoping to find that diamond in the rough, is your idea of a great day out, then France has a wealth of unforgettable experiences waiting for you, right across the country.

MUST-SEE GARDENS IN & AROUND PARIS

Cherry Blossom time in Parc de Sceaux.  When we think of great things to see and do in Paris, our first thoughts often go to the world famous monuments, incredible museums, fantastic range of food and some of the best shopping in the world.  Often overlooked are the wonderful green spaces, all of which contribute to all these unforgettable experiences.

KARL LAGERFELD, CREATIVE GENIUS

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Karl Lagerfeld with his beloved Choupette.  Credited as the design maestro who resurrected Chanel from a sure and certain fate of irrelevance when he became art director of the House in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld died in Paris on 19 February at the age of 85.

WHY GO TO PARIS IN MID WINTER?

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Exhibition poster for Musee Marmottan-Monet’s winter exhibition. Although winter has well and truly settled in for a while, this doesn’t mean that that Paris is quietly slumbering or even slowing down.  On the contrary, during the winter months the city is abuzz with fabulous exhibitions, imaginative concert programs and other great things to do, such as the eagerly awaited start of the end…

DISCOVER RUE PONCELET’S OUTSTANDING OUTDOOR MARKET

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  According to the Mairie de Paris, there are more than 82 markets in Paris.  This equates to at least one market in every one of the 20 arrondissements of Paris, and the number increases the further out you head from the centre. One of the best-loved markets for Parisians is located in the rue Poncelet in the 17th arrondissement.

A FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS AT THE JARDIN DES PLANTES, PARIS

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The official poster for the Festival de Lumieres.  This year’s Festival de Lumières at the Jardin des Plantes is the first time the event has been held in Paris and the region.  Called Especes en Voie d’Illumination, ‘Species in the Process of Enlightenment’, it’s an incredible visual feast for adults and children alike that takes the form of a nocturnal walk along the paths and lawns, sp…

TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO – CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES

Neptune Sculpture in the gardens of Chateau de Versailles.  The history of Versailles is inextricably linked with Louis VIV, although there had been a residence there for centuries before he ascended the throne.  As Dauphin, Louis XIV had loved to hunt in the forests surrounding the small chateau that his father Louis XIII had rebuilt from the original brick and stone hunting lodge.  Thes…

CELEBRATING 350 YEARS OF THE PARIS OPÉRA BALLET

  Palais Garnier, home of the Paris Opera Ballet.  The season’s opening on 27 September this year marked the 350th anniversary of the Paris Opéra Ballet.  Over the next 16 months, there will be ample opportunity for Champagne-popping as it celebrates its founding by Louis XlV on 28 June 1669.

EUROPEAN HERITAGE DAYS: VISITING RARELY ACCESSIBLE PLACES—FOR FREE!

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Emmanuel Macron welcoming visitors to the Elysee Palace. This year was the 35th edition of European Heritage Days that take place in September every year.  During the designated weekend doors are opened to thousands of monuments and sites, many of which aren’t normally open to the public, or offer only limited access.  As visits are free, the idea is to encourage people to learn about the…

Artful Shopping – exploring museum shops in Paris

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The Louvre Museum shop has the Venus de Milo in any colour you could wish. When it comes to shopping, Paris offers such a wealth of choice with its boutique-lined streets and elegant department stores.  It seems that almost everywhere you turn you will discover enticing little shops full of alluring goodies to tempt you.

MUSÉE YVES SAINT LAURENT, PARIS

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Musee Yves St Laurent.  A fitting celebration of the designer’s life and work, this jewel of a museum was opened by the French Minister of Culture in October 2017.  Housed in a beautiful Second Empire mansion, which was formerly the premises of his haute couture maison in the discreetly elegant 16th arrondissement, it is an enduring tribute to this legendary designer. 

A LITTLE-KNOWN GEM – PARC DES BUTTES-CHAUMONT

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The green slopes of the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont We recently discovered one of the gems of Paris that we had been meaning to visit for a very long time.  Off the tourist beaten track in the north east of Paris in the 19th arr., the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is one of the largest outdoor spaces in the city.

The Place des Vosges through the Seasons

Place des Vosges. One of the best-loved outdoor spaces where Parisians like to hang out at any time of year is the elegant Place des Vosges, in the heart of the famous Marais district.  It’s also one of our favourite places, and has come to express for us the changing seasonal character of the city.

ATELIER DES LUMIÈRES – THE NEW DIGITAL ART CENTRE IN PARIS

The current show at the Atelier des Lumieres An exciting new venue for the arts opened in Paris in mid April 2018.  Located in the former Plichon cast-iron foundry built in 1835, it has over 3,000 sq. metres of surface area and walls up to 10 metres high.  It took two years to prepare the building for its new life as the city’s most innovative space for presenting art, using all the techn…

EXPLORING THE ILE SAINT-LOUIS

L’Ile St Louis cafes.  Everyone visiting Paris heads to the Ile de la Cité, the large island in the middle of the river Seine, to visit Notre Dame Cathedral.  However, the smaller of the two islands, Ile Saint-Louis, can easily be overlooked.  It has retained its 17th century charm, most of its magnificent historic buildings, and its medieval streets.

WHERE TO FIND GREAT FASHION IN PARIS – THE HAUT MARAIS

The Haut Marais logo I’m often asked for shopping tips by those off to Paris, especially since many people know I spent about 35 years in the fashion industry.  Where I like to explore isn’t the usual suspects such as St Germain des Pres or the big department stores (although I don’t ignore those).  Instead, one of the first neighourhoods I head to for some fashion retail therapy is the 3…

WHAT’S ON IN PARIS – CURRENT & UPCOMING EXHIBITIONS

  Crowds queuing for the Louvre.  If you’re heading to Paris this year, you’ll make the most of your stay by checking out well in advance what exhibitions will be on.  The French are great exhibition goers, and if there’s something important at one of the many venues in the city, you can bet your life the locals will be there in droves.  Add large numbers of visitors and it’s easy…

PARIS ON A PLATE: PLACE MONGE MARKET

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The freshest seasonal produce, available all year round. The numerous outdoor markets of Paris are one of the many reasons why we love coming to Paris!    If great food and the freshest produce are passions of yours too, next time you’re in Paris, make sure to get to Place Monge on a market day.

MAINTAINING PARIS AS A WORK OF ART

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Advertisement for Louis Vuitton on the facade of the Louvre. Paris, as a modern city with an historic heart, is above all, a work of art.  As such, it must be continually refreshed to present its wonderful collection of public monuments and private buildings in the best possible light. This requires a major commitment of funds for conservation, funding that can be difficult to allocate or generate given the many calls on the public purse.

HUBERT DE GIVENCHY – THE GREAT MASTER OF STYLE

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The iconic Little Black Dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s.  Today we were saddened to learnt of the death of one of the greatest fashion designers of the 20th century, Hubert de Givenchy, at the age of 91. He is perhaps best remembered for his long association with Audrey Hepburn, his muse and close friend for over 40 years, for whom he created the timeless looks that became instantly …

TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO –DISCOVERING PARIS AND BEYOND

Navigo Decouverte Transport Pass. We have often been asked about the best way to get out and about to explore Paris and all the many attractions in the vicinity suitable for a day’s excursion. Paris has a terrific transport pass, a smart card called the Navigo Découverte—simply referred to as a “Navigo”—similar to London’s Oyster card, Sydney’s Opal or Hong Kong’s Octopus. However, th…

Fondation Louis Vuitton – a magnificent new cultural venue for Paris

I dream of designing a magnificent vessel for Paris that symbolises France’s profound cultural vocation. The soaring glass sails of Gehry’s Fondation Louis Vuitton.  With these words, the famous architect, Frank Gehry, creator of Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum (1997), gave his blessing to the opening in October 2014 of his masterpiece, the Fondation Louis Vuitton, Paris. We were lucky eno…

‘Don Quixote’: a perfect, festive season ballet in Paris

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Program for ‘Don Quixote’ Opera Bastille.  In Paris during the Christmas/New Year season, we were thrilled to see the latest revival of this much-loved ballet at Opera Bastille.  Choreographed by Rudolf Nureyev for the Vienna State Opera in 1966, his version was inspired by the original of Marius Petipa, Maître de Ballet of the Tsar’s Imperial Ballet, with music by Ludwig Minkus.  ‘Don Quixo…

A Touch of Paris Arrives in Sydney

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‘A Mon Seul Desir’ On Sunday evening we attended the members’ free viewing of the ‘Lady and the Unicorn’ series of tapestries on loan from the Musée de Cluny in Paris to the Art Gallery of NSW.  And what a visual treat it is!

The Big Affordable Art Fair in Paris

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Poster for Le Grand Salon d’Art Abordable 2018.  If you could suddenly transport yourself to Paris in a few weeks, you would be in time to catch a most interesting fair, or Salon, Le Grand Salon d’Art Abordable (roughly translates as the Big Fair of Affordable Art), put together by the gloriously named Peacock Society. 

Discover the charming Musée de Montmartre

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Musee de Montmartre-Jardins Renoir.  We had been vaguely aware of a museum on la butte (hill) de Montmartre dedicated to the area, but somehow it had eluded us. Not so long ago we came across an article announcing its re-opening after years of closure.  Always keen to make new discoveries in Paris, and armed with our trusty Michelin street directory, we headed off to finally track it d…

CHRISTIAN DIOR: DESIGNER OF DREAMS

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  Dior Couture.  CELEBRATING 70 YEARS OF THE HOUSE OF DIOR This monumental exhibition spanning 3,000 sq. m. and featuring over 300 haute couture gowns, has just closed at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. It was a sensory overload of haute couture that took the visitor on a voyage of discovery starting with the founder of the House of Dior and progressed through the illustrious cou…

Winter in Paris – Exhibitions Galore

Queues outside the Musee Jacquemart-Andre.  Those who think of Paris as simply a collection of historic monuments, or a city with food and fashion around every corner, are in danger of missing the many fabulous exhibitions that are held at various times of the year. This is a city filled with major museums and galleries that you must return to time and time again.

Afternoon Tea in Paris – Putting on the Ritz

The Ritz Hotel, Paris.  It’s not only the British who love a traditional afternoon tea, complete with dainty treats exquisitely presented, and tea sipped from the finest bone china. The French too love to make a special occasion of afternoon tea, enjoying sweet delicacies and special blends of teas.

The Road To Gastronomic Heaven In Paris

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Patisserie Stohrer, rue Montorgueil.  Whenever we’re in Paris, we love to explore some of the wonderful food areas of the city.  We’re very fortunate that one of the best outdoor markets in Paris at Place Monge in the 5th arr. is right on our doorstep. Rue Montorgueil  on the Right Bank has also long been a firm favourite.

A Scent of Paris – The New Musée du Parfum

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Le Grand Musee du Parfum logo. We were very curious to see just how they could create a museum from such an esoteric subject as perfume.  It also had the potential to be quite overwhelming, with too many scents vying with each other, and a sinus-sufferer’s worst nightmare! As it turned out, it’s one of the most fascinating concepts we’ve ever experienced.

Shop ’til You Drop at the Paris Sales!

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Les Soldes en Paris.  If, like me, you love to shop, especially if there is the lure of snaring a great bargain,  I’ve got some very useful tips to help you make the most of the whole SALE shopping experience. One of the great attractions of Paris is the excitement building up to the start of the end of season sales.

Your Paris SALES Battle Plan

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Happy luxury fashion sale shopper.  To make the most of your sales shopping, you need to plan your strategy like a military operation. Paris offers so much more than the Big Three department stores—Galeries Lafayette, Printemps on the Right Bank, and my personal favourite, Bon Marche on the Left Bank. Knowing which Paris districts offer the sort of fashion you’re interested in will he…

In the Footsteps of Julia Child

In France, cooking is a serious art form and a national sport. (Julia Child) Cooks’ heaven – E. Dehillerin.  When one of the great American cooks, Julia Child, first set foot in Paris, she knew she’d landed in food heaven. As she discovered, this accolade not only referred to the myriad cafes, bistros and temples of haute cuisine, but also embraced the numerous shops catering to profes…