By the time we reached the western end of the Bay of Naples, we thought we couldn’t be surprised any longer at the extraordinary sights of the region.  When we reached the archaeological site of ancient Cumae, then the stunning former Royal Palace at Caserta, its delightful medieval village, a massive aqueduct and yet another huge Roman amphitheatre, it just proved we still had more treasures to discover.

About 25 kms from Naples to the west at Cumae (Cuma today), is the coastal site of the first ancient Greek colony of Magna Graecia on the Italian mainland, founded by immigrants from the island of Euboea, in the 8^th century BCE.  The Greeks were already well established on the island of Ischia.  The site chosen was on a hill, surrounded on one side by the sea and on the other by rich fertile land on the edge of the Campanian plain.  Although they were chiefly fishermen, the new settlers strengthened their commercial, political and economic power by working the land and extended their original territory at the expense of local people.  The colony thrived.  They spread Greek culture and introduced a dialect of Greek, as well as the Euboean alphabet, which was later adopted by the Romans and became the Latin alphabet.

The Greek period at Cumae ended in 421BCE when opposing tribes broke down the town’s walls and took the city.  The walls on the acropolis were rebuilt eventually, and Cumae came under Roman rule.  The town withstood Hannibal’s siege, and it became a desirable area for wealthy Romans to build villas along the coast from the 1^st century BCE.  The central baths complex of the town was built around this time, and under Augustus, extensive public building works and roads were built and numerous temples such as those of Apollo and Demeter were restored.

The site we see today is enormous and there’s lots to see.  Although much of what we see is Roman, there are several Greek buildings as well.  The most celebrated site is the Sybil’s Cave or ‘Antro della Sibilla.’  This atmospheric cave was built first in the 4^th century BCE with an addition in the late 1^st century BCE.  This long, atmospheric trapezoidal tunnel/cave is fascinating.  There’s also a 2^nd century BCE amphitheatre, a forum, several temples, and a large public baths complex.

To get there takes a little over half an hour. by car or an hr. 20 mins. by Line 144 bus and train starting in Naples.

Barely 35 kms north of Naples is the town of Caserta.  We had heard of an enormous Royal Palace there that rivalled Versailles in sheer size alone, and said to be the largest palace erected in Europe during the 18^th century.  The town and the palace were constructed by the House of Bourbon-Two Sicilies for their main residence as kings of Naples.  It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.  Its nomination describes it as “the swan song of the spectacular art of the Baroque”, and it’s certainly an extraordinary sight—huge palace within extensive grounds that seem to stretch into the distance for kilometres.

Although at first sight it seems a larger copy of Versailles, there are some differences, as it housed not just the royal court and king but all the main political and cultural elites of the kingdoms of Naples and Sicily—a university, museum, library, cabinet bureaux, theatre, military high commands and so on.

Construction of the palace began in 1752 for Charles VII of Naples (later Charles lll of Spain).  However, Charles never slept a night at the palace, as he abdicated in 1759 to become King of Spain.  It was partially completed by Charles’ 3^rd son and successor, Ferdinand lV of Naples.

Like Versailles, Caserta started out as a rather ordinary hunting lodge before the ultimate makeover.  The palace is laid out in a grid pattern and at first reads more like a foreboding fortress than a pleasure palace.  The façades bear the signature of neo-Renaissance elements, such as alternating pediments and fluted pilasters.  The forecourt of the palace complex has the layout and scale of a military parade ground.

There is a massive ground-level arcade, designed for horse-drawn carriages.  The interior of the palace contains 34 staircases and by all accounts, 1,026 fireplaces.  At the foot of the Baroque staircase leading to the Royal Apartment is a massive replica of the statue of Hercules—the original is now housed in the Museum of Archaeology in Naples.

On this level is the Palatine Chapel, the grand private chapel of the royal family.  Much of the original artwork inside the chapel was lost during the war, with the altarpiece, an Immaculate Conception, being the only original piece.  There are numerous highly decorative, ceremonious rooms and an impressive throne room.  The Royal Palace of Caserta was the headquarters of the Allied forces during much of the Italian campaign of WW2.  The Italian Social Republic and Nazi Germany signed the formal surrender of their forces within the Italian peninsula in the palace on 29 April 1945.  The post war decades have seen a major conservation effort to sweep away the makeshift infill offices, mezzanine floors and other alterations required for military administration and return the Palace to its 18^th century glory.

As grand as the palace and its interiors are, the royal garden is truly spectacular, covering an area more than 12 hectares.  The centrepiece is the Via d’Acqua (Way of the Water), composed of linear fountains and reflecting pools. The design of the landscaping has been done with a so-called “telescoping effect” whereby an exaggerated perspective makes the garden appear even longer than it really is.  To make an exploration of the garden possible in a visit there is a shuttle bus from the palace to the end of the garden costing 2 Euros, or there are rental bikes available.

11 kms N.W. from Caserta lies Capua.  It’s hardly a separate town, as with modern development they have almost merged.  Capua originated with the Etruscans, about 260 years before the Roman takeover in 338 BCE.  Around 424 BCE, Capua was captured by the Samnites who sought help from the Romans, which ultimately led to the whole region coming under the control of Rome.

It enjoyed great prosperity, from growing spelt, roses, wine and spices, as well as bronze objects, and was especially noted as the home of gladiatorial combat.

Today, the main thing to see is the enormous amphitheatre, the second biggest in the Roman Empire, which was the site of the first and most famous gladiator school.  Numerous combatants were trained here before spilling their blood and sweat over the sand not only of this amphitheatre, but also those at Pompeii and Rome’s Colosseum.  Also, don’t miss the small museum on-site, full of artefacts and interesting objects from the amphitheatre.

10kms out of Caserta, heading eastwards, up in the Tifantini mountains is the medieval hilltop village of Casertavecchia (Old Caserta).  Although its origins are uncertain, according to a Benedictine monk the village was founded in 861 CE, based on an original Roman town called Casam Irtam.  The village was conquered and ruled by the Lombards, and suffered subsequent Saracen depredations, which led to the fortified mountain village becoming the Bishopric for the province.  Under Norman domination the village began the construction of its cathedral.  The village was conquered by the Aragonese in 1442, and was the original settlement before the 18^th century construction of the Royal Palace at Caserta on the plain below.

Casertavecchia has a lively and well preserved atmosphere, with cobblestone streets, narrow alleys, and bright flower boxes everywhere.  The village is known for the medieval Italian architecture of its stone and brick buildings and facing onto the main square, Piazza Vescovado, are the 12^th century Cathedral of San Michele and the belltower.

Opposite is the Episcopal Palace, the Seminary and Canonical House that form a closed rectangular courtyard.  There are many ancient noble palaces such as Casa Pisano, Casa Ferraiuolo, and Casa Bifore.  The numerous little shops, bars and trattoriae in the surrounding picturesque streets draw locals and visitors alike in the evenings.

Its hilltop location affords panoramic views of the surrounding area, and nowadays it’s a popular location known for its summer events and vibrant atmosphere.  There are a number of traditional events, particularly in the summer months, such as Il Ritorno dei Cavalieri nel Borgo (The Return of the Knights to the Village) and September in the Village, which have all contributed to the village’s revitalisation.

Don’t miss a walk through the ruins of the village’s castle, east of the historic centre. The village became a designated Italian National Monument in 1960.

Aside from driving, there are regular buses that runs from Caserta railway station to Casertavecchia, either the CLP bus no. 103 or the UC5 Borgo Line.  Purchase bus tickets from the AirCampania ticket desk in the railway station.

Half an hour’s drive from Casertavecchia or 20 mins. from Caserta, is the enormous Aqueduct of Vanvitelli, known in Italian as the Acquedotto Carolino.  This 38 km long aqueduct supplied water to the Royal Palace and its fountains, and the San Leucio complex from springs running to the foot of the Taburno massif, marked by 67 control towers along its underground path to the Royal Palace gardens.

Modelled after Roman arched aqueducts, it has 3 tiers, is nearly 56m high at its highest point, and crosses what is now highway SP335.  The structure includes notable canal bridges such as the Charles III Bridge in Moiano and the Valley Bridge in Durazzano.

The aqueduct was commissioned by Charles Bourbon, and designed by and named after Luigi Vanvitelli, the architect of the Royal Palace.  Construction began in March 1753 and opened on 07 May 1762.  It forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage site alongside the Royal Palace at Caserta and the San Leucio Complex, representing 18^th century engineering.

This is such a rewarding region to explore, and so close to Naples.  It’s a lovely balance from the coastal areas to venture into the countryside and discover such fascinating sights, ranging from ancient Greek colonies, enormous Roman amphitheatres, Royal Palaces and medieval villages, that many visitors don’t make time for, or have no idea exist.