Located at a crossroads between Latin and Germanic cultures, Strasbourg is steeped in over 2,000 years of history.  With its unique architectural heritage, the city is brimming with fascinating sights and wonders just waiting to be discovered.  We hadn’t been to Strasbourg for some years, and as the capital of the Alsace region, and also the seat of the European Parliament, it is a jewel that we will certainly put on our regular re-visit list.  The diversity of its architecture and its warm and cheerful atmosphere will invite you to explore and enjoy its riches.

Strasbourg was first mentioned in 12 BCE when it was a Roman encampment called Argentoratum, although the fertile area of the Upper Rhine Plain between the rivers Ill and Rhine had already been populated since the Middle Paleolithic.  From 362CE until 1262, Strasbourg was governed by the Bishops of Strasbourg, at which time the citizens violently rebelled against the bishop’s rule, and Strasbourg became a free city.  It became a French city in 1681, after the conquest of Alsace by the armies of Louis XIV.  After the Franco-Prussian War in 1870, the city, as part of the Imperial Territory of Alsace-Lorraine, became German again until the end of WW1, when it reverted to France.  It fell under German control again in June 1940 through formal annexation, until November 1944 when it once again, and finally, became a French city.

Strasbourg played an important part in the Protestant Reformation, with such personalities as John Calvin, and later, with other aspects of Christianity such as German mysticism and the Reverence for Life philosophical movement of Albert Schweitzer.  It was also one of the first centres of the printing industry with such pioneers as Johannes Gutenberg, and the world’s first newspaper was printed there in 1605 by Johann Carolus.

It has also suffered very dark periods during its long history, such as the Strasbourg massacre of 1349, the so-called Dancing plague of 1518, the Reign of Terror in 1793, the Siege of Strasbourg of 1870 and the years of Nazi Occupation, 1940-44, when it also endured British and American bombing raids.

As a consequence of its extraordinary history, Strasbourg is a city with many faces and personalities.  It has been the seat of European institutions since 1949: the first of the International Commissions on Civil Status and the Council of Europe, later of the European Parliament, and of the European Science Foundation.

It is the capital of the European Union, and chosen because it was a symbol of reconciliation after WW2.  Located on Ave. de l’Europe, housed in the ultramodern Palais de l’Europe overlooking the river Rhine, the border between France and Germany, it’s the location of the Parliamentary Assembly of the Council of Europe.  It is open to the public for guided tours.

Most visitors however would think first of Strasbourg’s extraordinary architectural heritage, such as its stunning Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg, the UNESCO-listed Grande-Ile district, the Petite France historic quarter, pretty cobblestone streets lined with traditional Alsatian houses with their flower-bedecked window boxes, numerous charming squares, the city’s fine old burghers’ houses and the many elegant 18^th century Louis XV buildings.

Thanks to its advantageous location at the intersection of important traffic and commercial routes on the river Rhine, Strasbourg has prospered throughout its 2,000 year history.  In the 13^th century, it became the Holy Roman Empire’s richest city, where art and learning flourished.  Today, besides its incredible collection of historic monuments, the city has exceptional museums of fine arts, archaeology and traditional Alsatian crafts.  One of the great things about Strasbourg is that you can do so much on foot, and the historic part of the city isn’t very large.

The Cathedrale Notre-Dame is one of the main attractions in the city.  Regarded as one of the most outstanding monuments of Gothic architecture in Europe, it is in a very prominent location in the city’s Grande-Ile historic centre.  Its spire soars 142m high, and was the highest peak in the Christian world until the 19^th century.  Its façade, constructed from red Vosges sandstone, is ornately decorated with sculptures and biblical scenes such as the Passion of Christ.  The beautiful stained glass windows date from the 12^th to 14^th centuries, and the only ones that compare to those of Chartres Cathedral.

In the south transept stands the famous L’Horloge Astronomique, a Renaissance astronomical clock built between 1571 – 74, with an automated parade of the 12 apostles and a crowing rooster every day at 12.30pm.  After touring the interior, it’s possible to ascend to the top of the bell tower, which affords a sweeping panoramic view of the city, the Rhine, Black Forest and the Vosges Mountains.

Nearby Place de Gutenberg, just a short walk from the cathedral, is dedicated to the famous Strasbourg resident Johannes Gutenberg, who invented the printing press around 1430-50, and the Gutenberg Bible was published here in 1455.  On the southwest side of the square is the finest Neoclassical 16^th century building in Alsace, originally the Hotel de Ville, and now occupied by the Chamber of Commerce.  At the corner of square, near rue Mercière, there is a magnificent view of the front of the cathedral.

After the almost overwhelming visual feast of the Cathedral, a gentle walk around the historic centre, known as both the Quartier des Tanneurs and La Petite France, has a great ambience with its maze of canals and narrow, ancient streets lined with perfectly maintained half-timbered houses.  During the 16^th and 17^th centuries, this area was home to the city’s leather tanners and fishermen.

Arguably the prettiest street in this cobblestoned quarter is rue du Bain-aux-Plantes, where you can admire the many traditional Alsatian houses with their flower-filled window boxes perched on windowsills.  Check out the Maison des Tanneurs at no. 42.  Built in 1572, it’s listed as a Historic Monument.  It’s now a fine-dining restaurant with a welcoming interior space and an outdoor terrace overlooking the river bank.  It’s regarded as one of the best places in the city for authentic Alsatian cuisine.

Nearby are the Ponts Couverts (Covered Bridges), which include 4 of the city’s medieval defence towers.

Nearby is the Barrage Vauban (Vauban Dam), weir and defensive work.  Erected in 1686, and originally called the Great Lock, the Vauban Dam was designed to flood a vast area of the city in the event of an enemy attack.  The bridge is 120m long, with 13 arches.  Above is a terrace offering panoramic city views, and especially a fantastic view of La Petite France neighbourhood. This covered bridge is open during the day and illuminated at night.

On Place de la Cathedrale is probably the finest old burgher’s house in the city, the Maison Kammerzell at no. 16.  Considered a gem of Alsatian architecture, this striking house, built between 1427 and 1589, features half-timbered upper floors, exquisite leaded stained-glass windows, and richly carved decoration.  It’s now a hotel that has a well-regarded restaurant, whose windows look out onto the cathedral’s façade.

Giving further evidence of the city’s rich cultural heritage dating back millennia, nearby in rue des Juifs are the ruins of an ancient Roman fort.

Another striking building is the Maison de l’Oeuvre Notre-Dame at 3 Place du Château, just a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral.  It was established in 1349 by the workers responsible for the maintenance of the cathedral.  Today, the building houses the Musée de l’Oeuvre Notre-Notre Dame, which has one of the finest collections of medieval and Renaissance art in Europe.  The exterior alone is well worth a look.

Nearby is the picturesque Place du Marché-aux-Cochons-de-Lait, one of the city’s most delightful squares.  The square takes its name from the ancient market where suckling pigs (an Alsatian culinary specialty) were sold.

Not far from here at 2 rue du Vieux-Marché-aux-Poissons is the former Grande Boucherie, built in the 16^th century as a butcher’s house.  Today, it’s now the Musée Historique de la Ville de Strasbourg, which tells the story of the tumultuous history of the city from the early Middle Ages until the modern era.

Along the river bank are a number of elegant palaces.  The Palais Rohan was the former residence of the Bishop-Princes from 1732 to 1742, until the Revolution.  The building now houses 3 exceptional museums:  the Musée  des Beaux-Arts, which has a fine collection of paintings by masters such as Botticelli, Corot, Courbet, Delacroix, Giotto, Goya, El Greco, Rubens, Tiepolo, and Veronese among others.  On the ground floor is the Musée des Arts Decoratifs in the former apartments of the Cardinals of Rohan.  There are sumptuous rooms including a library, print room and chapel, as well as the collection of decorative arts ranging from ceramics, porcelain, time pieces, and fine examples of the goldsmith’s art.  In the basement is the Musée Archéologique, which has one of the best collections of antiquities in France, including artefacts form prehistory to the Middle Ages.

On the opposite side of the river at 23-25 Quai Saint-Nicolas is the Musée Alsacien, located in a patrician house built in 1620.  The museum displays a collection of folk art, furniture, costumes and domestic items that offer an insight into rural Alsatian life in the 18^th and 19^th centuries, in rooms representing the interior style of different regions of Alsace.

The lively Quartier de la Krutenau is a blend of charming historic buildings, trendy restaurants, fashionable shops and art galleries.  This delightful neighbourhood of canals and half-timbered houses was once home to boatmen and fishermen, as evidenced by the street names such as Place St. Nicolas-aux-Ondes (Waves) and rue de la Tour des Pêcheurs.

The Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporaine is well worth a visit.  It’s located at no.1 Place Hans Jean Arp on the banks of the Ill River, near the Petite France quarter.  The spacious 10,000 sq. m. gallery is light, bright and airy.  It’s a must-see for those interested in modern art and architecture, with an impressive collection of 19^th and 20^th century works by Sisley, Picasso, Monet, Kandinsky, Arp, Braque, Klee, Ernst, Rodin, Renoir and Degas, among others.

As there are many great museums in Strasbourg, consider buying a Strasbourg Museums Pass, which costs less than separate entrance tickets to 2 individual museums.  Just recently, the city introduced another discount card, the Strasbourg City Card, valid for 7 days which offers around 15 discounts ranging from 20% – 50% across a range of attractions, including the cathedral platform, boat tours, guided walking tours, the mini tourist train, a number of municipal museums and a couple of châteaux.  Check out both these discount cards at the Office de Tourisme, located at 17 Place de la Cathédrale.

As the host of the European Parliament, Strasbourg also enjoys excellent transport links.  The main railway station, Gare de Strasbourg, itself is an outstanding modern complex, has a TGV service to Paris a couple of times a day that takes less than 2 hrs., as well as fast, regular services to many other European destinations.

Strasbourg has several excellent music festivals held throughout the year.  Les Nuits Européennes in October celebrates a wide range of European and world music; from November through to April, the Jazzdor festival presents a brilliant program of live jazz music, and is a famous stage for talented French jazz performers as well as European and international jazz artists;  from mid-September until the beginning of October, the Festival Musica thrills audiences with classical music, jazz, blues, world music, opera and musical theatre.  One of the best-loved events in Strasbourg, the FARSe (Street Arts Festival), held in mid-August, brings  lively performances to the streets and squares of the city centre, with acrobats, clowns, puppet shows, mini circus acts, juggling, magic tricks and burlesque.  Poets, musicians and theatre performers also provide entertainment to delight the crowds.

The Festival Européen du Film Fantastique de Strasbourg is held at the end of September into early October.  This unique festival is dedicated to the genre of animation, fantasy, science fiction and horror.  One of the most spectacular times of the year in Strasbourg is the Christmas season, and the city is often justly referred to as the Capital of Christmas.  The famous Christmas markets, with more than 300 chalet-stalls spread through the city, are one of the oldest in Europe, and the magnificent street decorations are a feast for the senses.

Strasbourg is, without doubt, one of the loveliest cities in Europe.  It has so many visual delights and a great atmosphere that’s very conducive to gentle strolling and exploring.  It’s essential to stay as close to the historic centre as you can manage, and fortunately, there’s a good selection of accommodation in the city.  This is just a brief outline of all the great attractions of Strasbourg, so you must allow more than just a day or two to fully enjoy this beautiful city.  With so much to discover, I’m sure you will agree that just one visit isn’t enough!