Skip to main content

Beyond Paris

DISCOVER THE RICH HISTORY AND TREASURES OF BEAUVAIS

There are many treasures to discover in Beauvais, most notably its Cathedral–Cathédrale Saint-Pierre–which is one of the most outstanding Gothic cathedrals in the country.  Built around 1247, its vast height is breathtaking at over 46m, making it the tallest cathedral in Europe.  It’s also famous for its elaborate astronomical clock, exquisi…

THE MAGNIFICENT FORTIFIED CITY OF CARCASSONNE

The spectacular fortress of Carcassonne is regarded as the best-preserved medieval fortress in Europe, and according to many experts, the world, and has been the inspiration for countless castles that have been invented in fairy tales.  Carcassonne is located in the Department of the Aude in the Occitanie region of southern France, a 3-hour dr…

PAROS –IN THE MIDDLE OF THE AEGEAN, AT THE HEART OF THE CYCLADES

Categories:
We had sailed past the island of Paros a number of times in the past, but were always en route to somewhere else in the Cyclades such as Santorini, or Naxos, which is just 8 kms away.  We determined this time around that we would make a point of stopping there for a few days and explore what had looked to us, peering across at it from the deck of a huge ferry, to be a picturesque town with pretty beaches and bays full of boats, large and small.  What a gem it t…

PICTURESQUE PATMOS – THE ISLAND OF REVELATION

Categories:
  The island of Patmos in the Dodecanese group is widely revered as the place where St John the Evangelist wrote the Book of Revelation.  We had sailed past the island on a number of occasions in the past but hadn’t stopped off, as we were always en route to somewhere else.  This last visit, we determined to add Patmos into our itinerary as we were staying on Kos, only a 2 hour trip on a fast ferry.  This beautiful island is relatively small at barely 2…

DISCOVER KOS – THE ISLAND WITH SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

Categories:
Whenever we go to Greece we like to do a combination of places that we know well and love to return to, while adding in a couple of places we’re yet to see.  This last visit, the first of our new destinations was the island of Kos, one of the Dodecanese group of islands located in the southeastern Aegean Sea.  Like so much of Greece, Kos is rich with ancient Greek and Roman landmarks such as temples, shrines, villas, an ancient Agora, picturesque villages, beau…

ATHENS – MORE THAN JUST THE PARTHENON

Categories:
When we think of Athens, the first thing that usually comes to mind is the Parthenon, perched high on the Acropolis overlooking the city spread out below.  As the Eiffel Tower is to Paris, similarly, the Parthenon is surely the symbol of Athens.  As splendid, and totally unforgettable, as it is, there are some other outstanding sights to visit if you’ve got a spare day or two.  Here are a couple of our favourites that are always on our list to visit each time w…

MEAUX – A REWARDING DAY TRIP FROM PARIS

Just 54 kms N.E. of the centre of Paris lies the ancient town of Meaux.  The journey from Paris Gare de l’Est (Line P) is around 25-40 mins, depending on what train you take.  You can use your Navigo Pass to get there by train as it’s within Zone 5, making it the perfect destination for a delightful day’s excursion.    These days, Meaux (pronounced ‘mo’) is mostly famous for its beautiful Brie cheese and mustard—although not necessarily together!

A HUGE ARCHAEOLOGAL SITE, A ROYAL PALACE TO RIVAL TO VERSAILLES, ANOTHER HUGE AMPHITHEATRE, A MEDIEVAL TOWN AND AN IMPRESSIVE AQUEDUCT

Categories: ,
By the time we reached the western end of the Bay of Naples, we thought we couldn’t be surprised any longer at the extraordinary sights of the region.  When we reached the archaeological site of ancient Cumae, then the stunning former Royal Palace at Caserta, its delightful medieval village, a massive aqueduct and yet another huge Roman amphitheatre, it just proved we still had more treasures to discover.

GREAT SIGHTS TO EXPLORE AROUND NAPLES AND A LITTLE ISLAND IN THE BAY

Categories: ,
Naples is such a great base for exploring the area close by, as well as the city itself.  The tragedy is that much of the public realm of the city is in terrible condition, poorly maintained and a great deal of senseless vandalism.  The city could easily rival some of the great cities to its north, as it has countless beautiful baroque buildings, former palaces, fine churches and pleasant piazzas.  Some of the gems include the Naples Galleria, which rivals thos…

MORE LITTLE KNOWN HISTORIC SITES AROUND THE BAY OF NAPLES

As we discovered on our recent trip to the western side of the Bay of Naples, the area is full of surprises.  Every day we discovered ancient sites that have little or no information about them readily available.  Many of these were very large, and all fascinating.  Most were well presented, and certainly rewarding for those wanting to see ancient Roman archaeological sites other than Pompeii and Herculaneum.  Popular with Italians and other Europeans for its b…

ANCIENT ROMAN SITES AROUND THE BAY OF NAPLES

We had long been curious about the Bay of Naples area to the west of Naples.  Although knowing the region’s ancient history, we had no idea whether there was anything to see nowadays.  Whether there were any significant archaeological sites, or was it going to turn out to be just a pile of old stones in the corner of a paddock, covered in straggly weeds.  We had visited Pompeii numerous times over the years, as well as having explored Herculaneum, and with rela…

METZ – BEAUTIFUL CAPITAL OF THE LORRAINE REGION

Categories:
The graceful capital of the Lorraine, the historic city of Metz lies barely 60 kms north of Nancy in the north east of France, and less than a 2 hour drive across to the German border.  Sitting astride the confluence of the Moselle and Seille rivers, Metz is one of the most rewarding destinations in France, with beautiful historic riches and heritage that reflect its fascinating history.  The city enjoys a vibrant cultural scene with various music venues, and o…

NANCY – CAPITAL OF FRENCH ART NOUVEAU, AND SO MUCH MORE

Categories:
The fame of so many French destinations is down to the historic architecture and culture of the place.  We love to visit beautiful historic places that speak of the history of the town or city.  These can range from ancient sites dating back millennia to fine chateaux and glorious cathedrals erected centuries ago.  So it’s a rare destination when the “new” town draws most of the attention.  Nancy is just such a place.  It is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and pa…

STRASBOURG – JEWEL OF ALSACE

Categories: ,
Located at a crossroads between Latin and Germanic cultures, Strasbourg is steeped in over 2,000 years of history.  With its unique architectural heritage, the city is brimming with fascinating sights and wonders just waiting to be discovered.  We hadn’t been to Strasbourg for some years, and as the capital of the Alsace region, and also the seat of the European Parliament, it is a jewel that we will certainly put on our regular re-visit list.  The diversity of…

THE BEAUTFUL ROUTE DU VIN, ALSACE

Categories:
The Alsace Route du Vin (Wine Route) is one of the best, most scenic road trips in France.  It’s the perfect itinerary for those who love sightseeing through outstanding landscapes, a string of picturesque villages, ruined castles from the Middle Ages, and enjoying the region’s fine wines along the way.  Taken at a leisurely pace, you can easily spend as long as five days, but it can be done in less, if time is short, since the length is barely 170kms, starting…

A MESSAGE FROM PARIS PLUS PLUS

Categories:
Dear Paris Plus Plus Subscribers, As I’m sure many of you will be aware, there has been a gap over the last month or so of my blog posts.  While some of you have continued to receive each post, many of you have not—perhaps starting to think that I had stopped writing them. The reason for this gap is due to a new system of distribution via a new internet server.  We took this time to update the layout of the blog itself, and introducing a better way of categor…

BEAUTIFUL COLMAR – GATEWAY TO THE ALSACE

Categories: ,
The charming town of Colmar is the ideal place to start exploring the so-called Route du Vin, and all the picturesque towns and villages of the Alsatian wine-growing region.  It doesn’t get any prettier than Colmar, with its picturesque half-timbered houses, romantic canals, window boxes laden with bright flowers, a labyrinth of cobblestone lanes, and the delicious food and wine of the region.    

MULHOUSE – AT THE CROSSROADS OF THREE COUNTRIES

Categories: ,
The city of Mulhouse is located in the far south of the Alsace region, on the Ill river and a canal of the river Rhine, between the Vosges and Jura mountains, at the crossroads of three countries: France, Switzerland and Germany.  Its location is reflected in the city’s rich cultural mix, language and cuisine.  It became one of the most important industrial centres in the country, firstly for the textile industry and later for chemicals, engineering and vehicle…

THE BEAUTIFUL PASSAGES COUVERTS OF PARIS

  The famous passages couverts—covered passages—of Paris were an early form of shopping arcades, mostly dating from the first half of the 19th century.  By the 1850s, there were around 150 covered passages in Paris, although Haussmann’s massive urban renewal program of Paris saw a number of these demolished.  Of those that remain, some are still dusty and forgotten, awaiting revitalisation, but there are many that have been beautifully restored to their…

DISCOVER BEAUTIFUL BESANCON – 2,000 YEARS OF HISTORY

On a recent visit to France, we planned on visiting the beautiful Alsace Lorraine region on the country’s eastern border with Switzerland, where we had not been for a number of years. For a stopover, we decided to stay in Besançon, capital of the region of Franche Comté, a town that we had only briefly passed through years ago.  We did some preliminary research into the attractions of Besançon and realised we had missed out on a very interesting, lovely town, w…

THE GREAT FIRE OF NOTRE DAME – FROM DISASTER TO MIRACLE

When news broke on 15 April 2019 that a fire had started to engulf the iconic Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris, along with most of the world, we held our collective breaths as we sat, transfixed in front of the TV.  The very thought that this wonderful building, which many regard as the true symbol of Paris, could collapse was almost too much to bear.  We had been in Paris a few weeks before the fire and were due to return in May 2019, and we had mixed emotions…

THE GREAT FIRE OF NOTRE DAME – FROM DISASTER TO MIRACLE

When news broke on 15 April 2019 that a fire had started to engulf the iconic Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris, along with most of the world, we held our collective breaths as we sat, transfixed in front of the TV.  The very thought that this wonderful building, which many regard as the true symbol of Paris, could collapse was almost too much to bear.  We had been in Paris a few weeks before the fire and were due to return in May 2019, and we had mixed emotions…

AIX-EN-PROVENCE, ONE OF THE MOST ANCIENT AND LOVELIEST TOWNS IN FRANCE

One of our all-time favourite towns in France, and certainly our top favourite in Provence, Aix-en-Provence never fails to enchant every time.  We first visited the town back in the 1970s, due its reputation as a great place to explore, but chiefly because of its history, as a town founded by the Romans in the 2nd century BCE.  We soon discovered for ourselves one of the loveliest towns in the country, with its intact medieval footprint of narrow, pedestrianise…

LOURMARIN, ONE OF THE MOST PICTURESQUE VILLAGES IN PROVENCE

The village of Lourmarin is one of the loveliest in the region, and it comes as no surprise that it has been designated one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France.  Every time we’re in this part of Provence, we make a point of visiting Lourmarin, and this last time we stayed for a couple of nights so that we could better absorb the atmosphere, and see what the village was like out of the normal tourist visiting hours.  Despite being such a popular destination, Lo…

FRÉJUS: SO MUCH MORE THAN A SEASIDE RESORT

We have driven along the Esterel Corniche (coast road) from Nice heading to St Tropez many times over the years, and have often stopped at the pretty coastal town of Fréjus for lunch at one of the many attractive beachside cafes.  We’ve walked around it, enjoyed browsing through the numerous resort-wear shops, or simply rested on a beachside seat and enjoyed the sight of boats bobbing on the calm waters and admired the lovely villas perched above the port.  Rec…

EXPLORING THE CÔTE D’AZUR HINTERLAND

The Côte d’Azur has so many wonderful attractions, many of which aren’t associated with beaches, famous luxury hotels or shopping—although the area offers plenty of all those!  If you’d like a little time out from the activities of the cities, beaches and what we think of as the typical Riviera pursuits, think about heading up into the surrounding hills and little villages perched on the slopes that dot the landscape, so near and yet so far.  We try and make ti…

A FABULOUS DAY TRIP FROM NICE – THE FONDATION MAEGHT, ST PAUL DE VENCE AND VENCE

One of the most famous perched villages on the Riviera is St Paul de Vence.  It’s within easy reach of Nice for a lovely day out, and what’s more, it’s very near the location of one of the most outstanding art museums in France, the Fondation Maeght.  Not far from the Fondation Maeght is the village of Vence (not to be confused with St Paul de Vence!), in the hinterland of Nice, in the direction of Grasse.  This village is famous for being the location of the C…

DISCOVER MORE GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS NEAR NICE

There are so many great attractions to explore along the Riviera, and we’ve looked at just a few of these in the last couple of blog stories.  The department of the Alpes-Maritimes is characterised by a profusion of artistic and cultural institutions—there are said to be more than 62 museums and foundations which bear witness to the attraction for so many artists during the 20th century to the light and environment of the Côte d’Azur.  Here we’ll look at a coup…

SOME FAVOURITE MUSEUMS, GALLERIES AND SIGHTS IN AND AROUND NICE

Nice has a wealth of sights and attractions, and we looked at some of them in the previous story.  The enormous number of museums, galleries and great attractions in Nice and its immediate vicinity showcase everything from art to archaeological artefacts to Provençal perched villages.  It’s a challenge to just restrict yourself to a few sights to take in during one visit, but that means there are plenty left on your list to draw you back for a future visit.  Wh…

NICE – JEWEL OF THE FRENCH RIVIERA

Categories:
No matter how often you visit the city of Nice on the French Riviera, there are always plenty of delights to experience and explore.  It wasn’t always the case though.  For many years, much of Nice was run-down and the area close to the docks was nothing more than a seedy sailors’ haunt.  This was certainly the case when we first visited Nice back in 1975.  In those days, Cannes was the place to go.  Today, Nice is almost unrecognisable from those days.  All th…

DISCOVER THE BEAUTIFUL MUSÉE RODIN IN PARIS

Without doubt, the Musée Rodin is one of the loveliest museums in Paris.  This has as much to do with the beautiful garden as the fabulous collection itself.  We first visited this museum back in the ‘70s, and revisit it as often as we can. It’s located in rue de Varenne, just a few minutes’ walk from the Invalides and the Eiffel Tower, in a very swanky part of the 7th arrondissement, with embassies as neighbours, and discreet mansions with high walls that shie…

DISCOVER RUE CLER – A CELEBRATED MARKET STREET IN PARIS

Paris is famous for its many outdoor markets, and pretty much every arrondissement has at least one and there are supposedly around 80 such markets across the city.  These are almost always temporary set-ups that operate a couple of mornings a week, and taken down by lunchtime.  However, there are a couple of pedestrianised streets in Paris that are devoted to food, fresh produce and other treats, that trade every day, all day, as permanent markets.  Rue Cler i…

BARON HAUSSMANN: VISIONARY FOR MODERN PARIS OR VANDAL OF HISTORY?

The Paris we know today has only existed, in large part, since the mid-19th century.  Before then, much of the medieval city was a dark, overcrowded and unhealthy place.  The wide, tree-lined boulevards and fine, creamy stone buildings we enjoy and admire today are mostly due to one man, Georges-Eugène Haussmann.  The dramatic urban renovation program undertaken by Haussmann was under the orders of Napoleon lll, nephew of Napoleon Bonaparte, a visionary and ide…

EXPLORING THE LATIN QUARTER, THE OLDEST ARRONDISSEMENT IN PARIS – PART 2

As we’ve seen from our Part One exploration of the Latin Quarter, there’s enough to keep anyone occupied for many days, as well as taking time to simply sit and enjoy people-watching, and the atmosphere of the area in a local café.  This Quartier also offers a wide selection of accommodation, as well as excellent public transport to take you anywhere across Paris, and beyond.  We left our scrutiny of this fascinating neighbourhood at the Curie Museum, from wher…

EXPLORING THE LATIN QUARTER, THE OLDEST ARRONDISSEMENT IN PARIS – PART 1

A city as ancient and as large as Paris has an almost overwhelming number of sights to take in.  Fortunately, one advantage that Paris has, is that so many of its attractions are within the Périphérique, or ring-road, that defines the arrondissements, or districts, from the areas outside that.  As well, Paris has a wonderful, and very accessible, public transport system that makes exploring the city practical and efficient.  If you had to nominate one arrondiss…

MONET’S HOUSE AND GARDEN: VISITING GIVERNY

I am often asked by friends and colleagues for suggestions for day trips out of Paris.  There are so many destinations and great things to see and do, it’s a case of, “well, what are you interested in” or “how many trips do you want to do?”  One destination that comes up more than most is Monet’s house and garden at Giverny.  Even for those who aren’t necessarily keen gardeners, Giverny has the well-deserved reputation of being one of the loveliest experiences…

PARIS NAVIGO PASSES – THE BEST WAY TO EXPLORE THE CITY, AND BEYOND. HOW TO GET AROUND PARIS LIKE A LOCAL

About 5 or 6 years ago, I wrote a blog story about the Paris Navigo Pass and its uses.  It is indeed the only way to get around Paris these days.  Since then, its use has expanded to include the relatively new tram system that circles the city.  I know from conversations I have with friends and colleagues that there are still many visitors who don’t know about this transport card, or only restrict themselves to using it on the metro trains.  Somehow, they don’t…

ART NOUVEAU RESTAURANTS OF THE BELLE EPOQUE IN PARIS

One of the great attractions with Paris is that it is, as everyone knows, a great food destination.  Whether it’s the many outdoor produce markets (some sources say 69, others say over 80!), or the wide variety of bistros, brasseries, restaurants and famous landmarks such as La Tour d’Argent that boast impressive Michelin stars, the city has more dining options than can ever be explored in a lifetime.  As well as great food, a number of Parisian restaurants are…

THE ELEGANCE AND LUXURY OF AVENUE MONTAIGNE, PARIS

For anyone with an interest in high fashion, it’s generally acknowledged that Paris is a world leader, if not the leader, in haute couture.  For decades, the top street for Parisian couture houses was the Faubourg St Honore.  It was his desire to assert his own vision and originality that Christian Dior opened his couture house in 1947 on Avenue Montaigne, rather than the Faubourg St Honore.  Since then, this short road has gradually seen many of the top fashio…

THE ALBERT KAHN GARDENS, A HIDDEN PARADISE IN PARIS

We had been aware of this beautiful place in Paris for quite a few years, but due to so many other distractions in the city, had never managed to get there.  Whenever we came across a reference to it, or someone mentioned it, typical descriptions were that it was a quiet haven, an exquisite retreat covering 4 hectares, and a little-known, almost-hidden paradise.  One glorious, bright sunny day on a recent visit, we were determined to finally get there, after re…

THE SPARKLING SEASIDE TOWN OF LA ROCHELLE

Categories:
Less than 2 hours by car up the coast from Bordeaux will take you to the beautiful port city of La Rochelle.  One of the country’s most important seaports from the 14th to 17th centuries, the city’s luminous limestone façades glow in the bright coastal sunlight.  Although its old commercial harbour, the Vieux Port, isn’t deep enough for the modern ships of today, it’s now one of the largest yachting harbours along the French Atlantic coast.  With its straight s…

EXPLORING THE COAST FROM BORDEAUX TO LA ROCHELLE

Categories:
Our initial idea was to make our way straight from Bordeaux up the coast, and although we had intended to stop off briefly along the way at various points of interest, our main aim was simply to get to La Rochelle.  We had been to La Rochelle some years ago, and remembered it as being a very attractive port town with lots to see and do.  However, we hadn’t realised just how much there is to see en route, and so what was supposed to be a less than two hr. car tr…

DISCOVERING BORDEAUX

Categories:
The city of Bordeaux is now such a pleasure to visit and explore, with a rich historic heritage of elegant historic stone buildings, impressive monuments that invite the visitor to stroll along its pedestrian streets, into any number of bistros, Michelin-starred restaurants, wine bars and enticing shops that draw you in.  The city today bears little resemblance to the first time we saw it, decades ago now, when the fine stone buildings were grimy, blackened fro…

SAINT ÉMILION – WORLD FAMOUS WINES, MEDIEVAL MONUMENTS AND CAPTIVATING SCENERY

Categories:
Saint-Émilion is a charming medieval village, perched on a promontory, located in the heart of the famous Bordeaux wine area.  It is a unique site where world famous wineries produce fine wine, and together with beautiful architecture and great monuments, are a perfect match.  We had visited this lovely village very briefly many years ago, and as we were based in Bordeaux for some days, it was the ideal opportunity to head to Saint-Émilion on the convenient loc…

AN EXTRAORDINARY DIGITAL ART SPACE AND A UNIQUE EXHIBITION BUILDING DEVOTED TO THE WORLD OF WINE

Categories:
It had been some years since our last visit to Bordeaux, and the city has acquired a couple of great new attractions.  One we were keen to visit turned out to be of the most remarkable cultural venues we have ever seen.  We were familiar with Culturespaces’ Paris space, the Atelier des Lumières, housed in a former iron foundry, which itself is a fantastic venue that we always try and visit every time there’s a new show.  Their latest venue in Bordeaux, the Bass…

MORE GREAT ATTRACTIONS TO DISCOVER SOUTH OF BORDEAUX

Categories:
Our travels in this region revealed far more than we had expected.  There is such a wealth of great places to visit just south of Bordeaux, ranging from world famous vineyards such as Château d’Yquem, while others are much less well-known, and a few hardly known at all outside the region.  There are a great number of fortified châteaux, many of them impressive ruins, while some are still lived in today.  There are pretty bastide villages, imposing cathedrals, a…

DISCOVER SOME OF THE CHATEAUX AND MONUMENTS SOUTH OF BORDEAUX

When we think of French châteaux, we tend to think, first and foremost, of the Loire Valley .  If you have explored those many glorious palaces in their magnificent garden settings, and love the idea of doing a châteaux-focussed trip elsewhere in France, may I strongly suggest you consider at least some of the huge number in the Gironde region just south of Bordeaux.  Unlike most of the Loire châteaux, many of those in the Gironde started off very much as fortr…

MOISSAC, A MEDIEVAL GEM IN L’OCCITANIE

Categories:
An hour’s drive north of Toulouse lies the medieval town of Moissac at the confluence of the Garonne and Tarn rivers, at the Canal de Garonne.  We had been to Moissac a few years ago, drawn by the town’s medieval Abbey.  It was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998 as a landmark church on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela.  Renowned for its magnificent sculptures, and especially for its beautiful cloister, the Abbey is one of the count…

CASTRES – AN UNKNOWN GEM IN THE LANGUEDOC, AND A RUINED ABBEY

Categories:
We have been travelling around the Languedoc region on and off for many years, and this time, as well as returning to some old favourites, we were keen to seek out a few places and sights we hadn’t visited before.  We thought we would drive from Marseille up towards Bordeaux, and during our research, we kept coming across the name of what sounded like a most interesting town.  Located about 73 kms east of Toulouse and 45 kms south east of Albi, lies the picture…

IDYLLIC ISCHIA – CAPRI’S BEAUTIFUL ISLAND NEIGHBOUR

Categories: ,
Rising from the crystal clear azure waters of il Golfo di Napoli, the island of Ischia has been a sough-after destination by visitors for centuries.  Covered with lemon trees, vineyards and olive groves, Ischia is a beautiful, volcanic island that’s a haven for those seeking a beach holiday off the beaten track, but also for those interested in its vibrant, often violent, history dating back thousands of years.  Here, glamorous hotels mix with more secluded acc…

DISCOVER THE MYSTERIOUS ETRUSCAN CIVILISATION AND MORE, AT TARQUINIA

Categories: ,
The history of Tarquinia is inextricably connected to the history of the Etruscans.  It was here that one of the first settlements of their civilisation arose, made up of a gathering of small groups that clustered together into a complex social structure and formed a city-state.  Although little is visible of the once-great wealth and extent of the ancient city, today Tarquinia is famous for its ancient Etruscan tombs in the widespread necropoli, or cemeteries…

THE ISLAND OF ELBA – MORE THAN JUST MEMORIES OF NAPOLEON

Categories: ,
Best known for being the place of Napoleon’s exile in 1814, Elba is the biggest island of the Tuscan archipelago and Italy’s third-largest island, after Sardinia and Sicily.  It’s also part of the Arcipelago Toscano National Park.  It has so much to offer:  there are pretty beaches, good diving, charming towns, dramatic historic fortresses and great food.  Lying less than 10 kms from the mainland, it’s easily accessed by a frequent and efficient ferry service from…

THE SPECTACULAR BEAUTY OF ITALY’S CINQUE TERRE

Categories: ,
  A century ago, the Cinque Terre were simply five fishing villages on an unforgiving, incredibly rugged stretch of the Ligurian coast of northwest Italy.  With modern transport came tourism, and now hordes arrive daily to experience it all:  the startlingly vibrant colour of the Mediterranean, the wildly rugged coastline, scenic hiking tracks and the tiny towns tucked into the dramatically steep valleys.    

THE HILLTOP CITY OF LAON – MEDIEVAL CAPITAL OF FRANCE

Situated high above the flat plain of northern Picardy, is the medieval city of Laon, known as the ‘Montagne Couronnée’ (the Crowned City).  It sits isolated atop a 100m high limestone rock, surrounded by the low, flat plains below.  The high town, encircled by 8 kms of walls and formidable gates, is France’s largest protected historic centre.  The town’s crowning glory is the early 12th century Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon, visible for kilometres in every dir…

TWO ART DECO WONDERS IN LILLE, NORTHERN FRANCE

Categories:
The City of Lille in the north of France is one of the loveliest in the country.  Although largely unknown outside France, Lille has so much to captivate the visitor.  From a beautiful historic quarter, much of which is pedestrianised, to great food, excellent shopping possibilities, and an enormous number of cultural attractions.  Two of these are Art Deco gems, located outside the city in the suburbs of Roubaix and Croix, just a quick metro or tram ride from…

DISCOVER LILLE, ONE OF FRANCE’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS

Categories:
Capital of the Hautes-de-France region, Lille may be France’s most underrated city.  Recent decades have seen the country’s 4th largest city transform from an industrial powerhouse into a vibrant and highly attractive cultural and commercial hub.  Lille offers a beautiful old town with magnificent French and Flemish architecture, renowned art museums, a wide variety of great shops, outstanding cuisine, and a lively atmosphere thanks to a large population of uni…

A ONCE-FAMOUS LONDON COURTHOUSE NOW A CHIC HOTEL

Categories:
The latest London hotel everyone is talking about is NoMad, the first outside New York for the group that owns it.  The interesting thing though is that it occupies the former Bow Street Magistrates’ Court and Police Station, a landmark historic building.  It’s located opposite the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden, and had been closed since 2006.  It was the most famous Magistrates’ Court in England in the latter part of its 266 year existence, being the venu…

A DRAMATIC TRANSFORMATION OF A LONDON ICON

Categories:
Since it was decommissioned in 1983, the Battersea Power Station had stood derelict on the south bank of the River Thames.  Renowned for its four chimneys and Art Deco design, after decades of decay, the iconic Grade ll* heritage listed building has undergone a massive transformation, opening in late 2022.  This complex project has opened the building and riverside to the public for the first time, retaining the power station’s unique historical features, but g…

TWO RADICALLY DIVERSE MUSEUMS TO DISCOVER IN ROME

Categories: ,
For those of us who have been to Rome numerous times and have seen all or most of the city’s major monuments and museums, it’s great to come across two lesser-known attractions.  These two museums are complete opposites to each other: one being a small, very fine Renaissance villa set in a beautiful garden, while the other is Rome’s newest gallery of contemporary art and architecture, housed in a former automobile factory with a dramatic extension by the late Z…

TWO UNFORGETTABLE SITES IN PUGLIA

Categories: ,
Not to be missed on a visit to Puglia is a 13th century citadel, the magnificent Castel del Monte, about 70kms north of Matera.  Strategically perched on a hilltop in the Murgia region at an altitude of 540m that can be seen from many kms away, it seems to dominate the entire Kingdom of Sicily, of which Puglia was a part at that time.  Another site, that’s one of the country’s most historically important, is Cannae.  Anyone who has ever heard of Hannibal will d…

MATERA – SOUTHERN ITALY’S MOST EXTRAORDINARY SITE

Categories: ,
Italy’s southernmost region has many great sights and attractions, including huge fortress palaces, white-washed towns and villages, the extraordinary trullis that are only found in the Valle d’Itria, and some stunning beaches.  As well as these treasures, there is one spectacular place that no visitor should miss.  Matera is one of the most extraordinary destinations in Italy.  This remarkable city, the third oldest continuously inhabited in the world, that on…

EXPLORING SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF PUGLIA’S VALLE D’ITRIA

Categories: ,
The Valle d’Itria is, for many people, the heart of Puglia.  It’s where you’ll see the white rendered trulli houses with their stone conical roofs for which Puglia is famous, along with white-washed villages such as Alberobello and Locorotondo, and larger towns like Martina Franca and Ostuni.  The rolling green valley is criss-crossed by dry-stone walls, vineyards, ancient olive and almond groves and winding country lanes.  It’s a visitor’s dream location.

CASTLES AND FORTRESSES OF PUGLIA

Categories: ,
Puglia is a land of conquests and domination.  Strongholds and castles stud the countryside throughout the region, majestic symbols of ancient nobility, but also a turbulent past.  The castles were not built purely as residences, but rather as heavily-fortified bastions that could stand strong and invincible against all comers, whether by land or by sea.  There are no mountain peaks for Puglia’s castle strongholds.  Instead, its horizon traces, almost without i…

LECCE – THE BAROQUE JEWEL OF PUGLIA

Categories: ,
The capital of the province of Puglia, located in the Salento region of the “heel” of Italy, Lecce is a dazzling Baroque jewel.  Constructed in the local creamy limestone, the buildings of Lecce are covered with joyous, ornate carvings and adornments executed with exuberance and great skill.  It is the cultural capital of Puglia, with so many monuments, churches, palazzi and museums, that it is often referred to as “the Florence of the South”.  With its elegant…

MORE THAN A MOTOR RACING CIRCUIT, THE CITY OF LE MANS IS ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS OF FRANCE

Mention the town of Le Mans, and many of us would probably first think of the motor racing circuit famous for its gruelling 24 hr. endurance race held every year in June.  The majority of visitors at that event watch the race, enjoy the local cuisine and the friendly bars and leave.  Amazingly, most of them never realise that there is a beautiful old town so close by.  The don’t see the Roman ruins, they miss the narrow cobble-stoned streets lined with half-tim…

DISCOVERING THE ANCIENT TOWN OF SOISSONS – A GREAT DAY TRIP FROM PARIS

The town of Soissons in Picardy, designated a City of Art and History, has deep, obscure roots that date back to ancient Gaul.  It occupied a strategic location, much fought over by Caesar and his Roman legions and the Gallic tribes, and later became an important city in the Frankish Empire, eventually becoming its capital—the first of France.  If you enjoy discovering little-known destinations that offer important historic monuments, a magnificent Gothic cathe…

SENLIS – 2,000 YEARS OF HISTORY JUST A DAY TRIP FROM PARIS

The medieval town of Senlis is situated near the magnificent Château estate and town of Chantilly.  It’s the kind of French town in which you could happily lose yourself for hours, wandering along the narrow, cobblestoned alleyways and soaking up its history, which stretches back to pre-Roman times.  It’s perfect for a day trip from Paris, especially for those who have already visited Versailles and Fontainebleau, and are looking for another rewarding experienc…

THE ROMAN & MEDIEVAL ERAS – TWO FACES OF VAISON LA ROMAINE

Provence is renowned for some of the most spectacular and extensive remains of the Roman empire.  There are sites whose main claim to fame are the vast Roman arenas—most, if not all, still in regular use—monumental arches and temples dedicated to honour a variety of deities, including emperors themselves.  We all know of the Pont du Gard and the spectacular arenas in Arles and Nimes, the theatre in Orange etc., and the many other great destinations in Provence…

L’ISLE-SUR-LA-SORGUE – THE ANTIQUES CAPITAL OF PROVENCE

Many of the towns and villages of Provence have something quite individual that has defined what they have become and what they are known for.  Some have marvellous Roman ruins, stunning views, or perhaps a medieval fortress or two.  L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is one of our must-visits and we often plan our itinerary around its most famous attraction—the Sunday market which takes over the entire historic centre of town.  However, there’s even more to discover in this…

SIMIANE-LA-ROTONDE & A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN – LITTLE-KNOWN GEMS IN HAUTE PROVENCE

We tend to think that there’s not many undiscovered places left in Provence these days.  However, there are interesting little corners of the region that still remain relatively untouched and almost devoid of visitors.  Simiane-la-Rotonde is one such place: clinging to a small hill on a high plateau to the northeast of Apt and the Luberon, with groves of pines and cypresses rising up the slopes.  One of its great joys is that in June and July, the surrounding f…

ITALY’S IDYLLIC LAKE GARDA

  There aren’t many places in Europe more beautiful than Italy’s Lago di Garda.  Its stunning scenery is due to the extensive backdrop of the Dolomite mountains to the north, together with all the picturesque towns and medieval villages dotted along its shore, it’s the perfect region to spend some time.  It has long been a favourite destination of ours, and we tend to gravitate to the beautiful town of Sirmione on the southern shore, which is a great ba…

THE BEAUTIFUL RENAISSANCE CITY OF FERRARA

Categories: ,
The north of Italy has an abundance of riches for the visitor, and it’s almost impossible to make a list of top favourites.  There’s the sublime beauty of the various lakes, the glories of Venice, and numerous small Renaissance cities to choose from.  We’ve spent many wonderful trips exploring these Renaissance gems over decades, and they all have their own unique character and attractions.  Recently, we re-visited the beautiful city of Ferrara, a little over 1…

VENICE DURING THE BIENNALE

We revisited Venice a few weeks ago for the first time since COVID shut down the world for travellers.  Venice has been one of our top favourite cities for many decades, and this was to be our 4th Biennale, so we were interested to see what changes had occurred to La Serenissima since our last visit.  Would it still be magical, or a crowded nightmare now that the world has re-opened for travel?  We were keen to find out.

THE MAGNIFICENT BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE DE FRANCE HAS FINALLY RE-OPENED

We had been walking past this enormous complex for years speculating about when it might re-open, wondering if we’d ever get to visit it one day.  Imagine our surprise and delight when we saw the enormous posters announcing its re-opening in the metro stations on our first day back in Paris!  It was still closed on our earlier visit in April, with no hint as to when it would re-open.  This is arguably the most important, and certainly largest, of the numerous n…

THE MYSTERIOUS KNIGHTS TEMPLARS AND THE ORIGINS OF THE MARAIS DISTRICT –

This district of Paris is one of the most historic and fascinating in the city.  Nowadays, it’s known for hip boutiques, quirky art galleries, great cafes, restaurants and fresh food, a couple of delightful squares, and some of the best museums in the city.  Although its origins were far from auspicious, it’s a place we always head to for all these attractions and much more.  It’s an enticing melange of ancient and traditional plus contemporary and slightly qui…

LE MARCHÉ BASTILLE-RICHARD LENOIR—A GUARANTEED CULINARY ADVENTURE

There are dozens of outdoor markets in Paris, at least two in each of the city’s 20 arrondissements.  Probably the largest, and many argue the best, is the fantastic Marché Richard-Lenoir—more commonly called the Marche Bastille, held Thursdays and Sundays along the grand Boulevard Richard Lenoir, just north of the Place de la Bastille.  The focus is the wonderful range of foods grown by local area farmers, quite a few of which are certified organic growers.  A…

TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO: A PERFECT DAY IN PARC DE SCEAUX – ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS NEAR PARIS

If you’re looking for a very pleasant and interesting day trip from Paris, and you’ve already visited the big headline sites such as Versailles or Fontainebleau, the charming town of Sceaux is certainly one that offers everything you could wish for.  Known for its rich architectural heritage, its picture-perfect château, museums, 13th century church, and magnificent parks, it’s hard to believe that Sceaux is less than 10 kms south of Paris.

DISCOVERING THE BEAUTIFUL PARC MONCEAU AND ITS ELEGANT NEIGHBOURHOOD

In the last two posts, we have looked at two outstanding Paris museums, relatively little-known to visitors, both located in the 8th arrondissement, one just around the corner from the other.  They are both close by the Parc Monceau, one of the most interesting and beautiful parks in the city, at the junction of Bvd. de Courcelles, rue de Prony and rue Georges Berger.  The neighbourhood is a quiet, discreetly elegant, mostly residential area with impressive man…

THE CERNUSCHI MUSEUM OF ASIAN ART, PARIS

The Musée Cernuschi is relatively unknown to most visitors to Paris.  Located on a quiet, leafy street that leads up to the beautiful Parc Monceau in an ultra-exclusive area of the 8th arrondissement, it’s just around the corner from the Musée Nissim de Camondo.  The Cernuschi is an Asian art museum, mostly specialising in works from China, Japan, and Korea.  These are objects collected by Henri Cernuschi, and displayed in a small mansion that used to be his ho…

WALKING THROUGH A WORK OF ART – MONET’S GARDENS AT GIVERNY

Categories:
We have often been asked about visiting Monet’s gardens at Giverny.  How difficult is it to get there independently, or is it best to take a tour from Paris?  Is it really worth it, or has it become a victim of tourist hype?  Are the hordes of visitors a turn-off?  Is it possible for those who want to experience the atmosphere and tranquility of a beautiful garden to still enjoy a visit, given its enormous popularity?  

A FEAST OF FESTIVALS IN FRANCE

From history to fantasy, and everything in between, there are plenty of festivals in France where you can experience the country’s vibrant culture.  These events celebrate everything from the latest movies, the medieval period, art, wine, parks & gardens, kites, lemons, and dragons, to theatre, opera, and other different genres of music.  Right across the country, the biggest and most important festival in France is of course Bastille Day.  However, if you…

L’HÔTEL DE LA MARINE – A TOUCH OF VERSAILLES IN THE HEART OF PARIS

If you’ve been to Paris more than once, very likely you have been past the Hôtel de la Marine.  This is not a hotel in which you stay, but a hôtel particulier of epic proportions.  A “real” hotel, the historic, luxury Hôtel de Crillon, is adjacent.  These opulent 18th century buildings are a perfectly balanced pair facing onto Place de la Concorde.  Fortunately, during its long and illustrious life, from the reign of Louis XV through the centuries housing the N…

LA SAMARITAINE, AN ICONIC PARISIAN DEPARTMENT STORE REBORN

La Samaritaine has finally re-emerged, like the phoenix rising, if not from the ashes, from a long hibernation of neglect and deterioration that left a gap on the city skyline between the river Seine and the busy rue de Rivoli.  Its recent re-opening was a much anticipated event.  After 16 long years of closure, renovations, and some controversy, this historic icon is the ultimate grand magasin.  Definitely a must-see on your next visit to Paris!

A PARISIAN LANDMARK REIMAGINED: LA BOURSE DE COMMERCE–PINAULT COLLECTION

Over the last two years, despite the severe COVID restrictions, Paris somehow managed to work on a number of extraordinary cultural projects, most of which have now opened.  These were not small-scale ventures by any means.  As I’ve mentioned previously, two of these were the complete refurbishment of the enormous Musée Carnavalet, now re-opened, and the massive restoration of the Grand Palais, which is still ongoing.  Last post, I looked at the new Christian D…

LA GALERIE DIOR – A HOMAGE TO THE ARTISTRY OF THE ‘MASTER OF DREAMS’

Near the top of our list of must-sees on our recent visit to Paris was the Christian Dior museum, La Galerie Dior, which I briefly mentioned in the last blog.  I had read about its official opening, just 3 weeks before we hit town.  A good friend of ours, the manager of the beautiful Zegna menswear boutique on Ave. George V, urged us to make a visit a priority, as word was spreading fast.  This was also a great sign that things in Paris had re-opened, and that…

PARIS—AND THE REST OF FRANCE—ARE BACK IN BUSINESS!

As some of you know, we have just returned from 5 weeks in France.  It was a truly wonderful trip, spending 3 weeks in Paris before heading down to the glorious Burgundy district for almost 2 weeks.  Like everyone for whom travel is an essential part of life, we were anxious to spread our wings and head back to our favourite destination after the COVID-induced lockdowns of the last 2 years or so.

MUSÉE NISSIM DE CAMONDO – A MAGNIFICENT MANSION DEDICATED TO THE 18TH CENTURY

There are so many wonderful museums in Paris, selecting which ones to visit when you’ve got limited time is a challenge.  We certainly have our favourites, and we also keep an eye on websites of Paris cultural institutions to check if there will be any special shows on during our next visit.  One of our favourites since we first discovered it some years ago is the Musée Nissim de Camondo, which backs onto the beautiful Parc Monceau, and has a number of embassie…

A NEW WAVE OF MUSEUM RESTAURANTS IN PARIS

In a city that boasts over 140 museums, and a food culture that’s worth travelling from the other side of the world for, it a natural fit that there are going to be cafes and restaurants in certain Paris museums that are as worth visiting as the museums themselves.  Some museum restaurants have become icons of good food and great ambience, such as the Café at Musée Jacquemart-André, and more recently, Alain Ducasse’s ‘Ore’ at the Chateau de Versailles and the C…

MUSEE GUIMET – 5,000 YEARS OF ASIAN ART IN PARIS

When we think of museums in Paris, what immediately springs to mind are the internationally famous institutions such as the Louvre, Quai d’Orsay, Pompidou Centre, and perhaps the recent addition of the Fondation Louis Vuitton.  But Paris also has the largest and most important collection of Asian artefacts in Europe at the Musée des Art Asiatiques Guimet in the 16th arrondissement.  From the Buddhas of Afghanistan, the Zen monks of Japan, Samurai armour, Indian…

PALAIS GALLIERA – THE PARIS MUSEUM OF FASHION

A stone’s throw from some of the most prestigious haute couture houses and designer boutiques in the city, the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris is housed in the Italian Renaissance-inspired Palais Galliera.  The museum preserves some of the richest collections in the world, estimated at around 200,000 items of clothing, accessories, photographs, drawings and more.  Tracing the evolution of fashion over more than 300 years, these extraordinary collections a…

THE TROCADERO – PANORAMIC VIEWS, BEAUTIFUL GARDENS, FOUR MAJOR CULTURAL INSTITUTIONS, AND A SUPRISING SECRET

Situated on the opposite side of the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, the Trocadéro is well and truly on the must-visit list for offering the best view of the most recognisable monument in Paris.  It is also home to beautiful gardens, ornamental ponds and fountains that stretch down to the river, as well as the richness of the Palais de Chaillot, the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, and the Musée de la Marine—although this is currently closed for massive re…

PASSY – WHERE QUIET VILLAGE CHARM MEETS CULTURE & LUXURY

The 16th arrondissement of Paris is best known to visitors for its great landmarks and museums, from the Musée Marmottan-Monet, the Palais Galliera and Musée Guimet, to the Place de la Trocadero and the Palais Chaillot,  affording dramatic views of the Eiffel Tower on the opposite bank of the Seine.  But the 16th also has corners of quiet, residential areas that feel worlds away from the big-ticket attractions and the bustle of the city.  The Passy neighbourhoo…

RUE OBERKAMPF – A VIBRANT PARISIAN NEIGHBOURHOOD

Beyond the iconic Place de la Republique—where Parisians gathered in their thousands after the 2015 attacks on their city—is a fascinating network of streets crammed with some of the city’s hippest venues, chic bars, great bistros, old craft workshops and up-and-coming designer boutiques.  In Paris’ 11th arrondissement, rue Oberkampf and the streets around it offer an interesting mix of all of these, plus an increasing number of high-end food shops and any numb…

TWO SECRET VILLAGES IN PARIS

If you’ve been to Paris a few times, no doubt you’ve taken in the big, headline monuments and sites such as the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Louvre, walked along the Champs Elysees and shopped ’til you dropped in Galeries Lafayette.  These iconic places are internationally famous for a very good reason, but for your next visit, I’d like to suggest some hidden little pockets to explore that most likely you’ve never heard of.  There are a number of charming lit…

MORE GREAT SIGHTS TO DISCOVER IN THE DORDOGNE

Categories:
Recently we’ve been looking at a number of beautiful places to visit in the Dordogne—a region blessed with a wealth of attractions.  There are many beautiful villages—a number of which are members of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France organisation—enough to keep a visitor occupied for weeks.  The region has some lovely towns and stunning châteaux and romantic ruins to explore, fascinating cave complexes decorated with prehistoric drawings, ancient Roman sites, n…

THE REMARKABLE LIFE OF JOSEPHINE BAKER – CABARET STAR, RESISTANCE HEROINE, ACTIVIST AND OWNER OF A DORDOGNE CHATEAU

Categories:
Iconic entertainer of the Jazz Age, famous for her risqué performances, Josephine Baker’s extraordinary story is one of perseverance, bravery, and incredible talent.  She was a force to be reckoned with, whether fighting racism in her native America or spying on top Nazis.  She found new ways to challenge those who sought to diminish or silence her, and innumerable ways to both charm and resist.  She has now been honoured in the Panthéon, Paris.

SARLAT, MEDIEVAL GEM OF THE DORDOGNE

Categories:
The town of Sarlat-la-Canéda is the capital of the Périgord Noir.  Located between the Dordogne and Vézère Valleys, it is regarded as having one of the most beautiful and cohesive collection of medieval buildings in Europe and classified as a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire.  Sarlat has the highest density of listed historic buildings per square metre in France.  Every year thousands of visitors are attracted to its picturesque squares, charming medieval streets, spl…

LES PLUS BEAUX VILLAGES IN THE DORDOGNE-PÉRIGORD

Categories:
Boasting more villages designated as Les Plus Beaux Villages de France than any other region, except perhaps Provence, the Dordogne has some of the finest treasures of natural and cultural heritage in the country.  You’ll find fortress châteaux, churches, honey-coloured stone buildings, troglodyte cave dwellings, ancient barns, medieval villages, beautiful woodlands, meandering rivers and panoramic views.  The food is sensational, based on locally grown produce…

LES PLUS BEAUX VILLAGES DE FRANCE

In September 2021 two more villages achieved the highly prized acceptance into the association of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, namely Polignac in the Haute-Loire, and Le Malzieu-Ville in the Lozere.  It’s certainly no secret that France abounds with picture-perfect destinations.  If you’ve ever spent time exploring rural France, you probably thought that surely you must have discovered the most beautiful villages in the country—and we all have our favouri…

WHEN A PARIS PÉNICHE IS MORE THAN JUST A BARGE

One of the most pleasant ways to relax in Paris is to take a stroll along the banks of the Seine.  It’s a busy, working river with a constant flow of craft of all descriptions.  Ranging from the many tourist boats crammed with sightseers enjoying the unique perspective of the city’s great landmarks from the river, to serious, business-like barges riding low in the water, filled with anything from building site rubble to bales of shredded paper heading to the re…

MONT SAINT-MICHEL, NORMANDY’S JEWEL IN THE CROWN

Categories:
It is surely one of the most stunningly beautiful sights in Europe, and in its setting in a bay shared by Normandy and Brittany, Le Mont Saint-Michel draws the eye from a great distance.  It has been a great Christian pilgrimage site from the early 8th century when a local bishop claimed that the Archangel Michael himself came to him in a vision and pressured him into constructing a church atop the island just off the coast.  It’s safe to say there’s nowhere in…

ROUEN- NORMANDY’S VIBRANT, HISTORIC & CULTURAL CAPITAL

Categories:
Situated on the banks of the river Seine, Rouen is the capital of the Haute Normandie region.  An active port and commercial city even in the Roman era and Middle ages, Rouen has a number of ornate Gothic churches, beautiful medieval half-timbered houses, a cobblestoned pedestrian centre and its famous astronomical clock.  Even if you’ve never been there, you’ll likely to recognise its Cathedral of Notre Dame from the numerous paintings of Claude Monet and J.M…