THE GREAT FIRE OF NOTRE DAME – FROM DISASTER TO MIRACLE
The re-opening ceremony of Notre Dame, on 07 December 2024
When news broke on 15 April 2019 that a fire had started to engulf the iconic Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris, along with most of the world, we held our collective breaths as we sat, transfixed in front of the TV…
DISCOVERING BORDEAUX
Porte Cailhou on Place du Palais. Photo, Shutterstock
The city of Bordeaux is now such a pleasure to visit and explore, with a rich historic heritage of elegant historic stone buildings, impressive monuments that invite the visitor to stroll along its pedestrian streets, into any number of bistros, Michelin-starred restaurants, wine bars and enticing shops that draw you in. The city today…
SAINT ÉMILION – WORLD FAMOUS WINES, MEDIEVAL MONUMENTS AND CAPTIVATING SCENERY
The pretty medieval town of Saint-Emilion is surrounded by its famous vineyards
Saint-Émilion is a charming medieval village, perched on a promontory, located in the heart of the famous Bordeaux wine area. It is a unique site where world famous wineries produce fine wine, and together with beautiful architecture and great monuments, are a perfect match. We had visited this lovely village…
AN EXTRAORDINARY DIGITAL ART SPACE AND A UNIQUE EXHIBITION BUILDING DEVOTED TO THE WORLD OF WINE
Aerial view of the Cite du Vin, Bordeaux
It had been some years since our last visit to Bordeaux, and the city has acquired a couple of great new attractions. One we were keen to visit turned out to be of the most remarkable cultural venues we have ever seen. We were familiar with Culturespaces’ Paris space, the Atelier des Lumières, housed in a former iron foundry, which itself is a fant…
MORE GREAT ATTRACTIONS TO DISCOVER SOUTH OF BORDEAUX
Gardens of Chateau d’Yquem.
Our travels in this region revealed far more than we had expected. There is such a wealth of great places to visit just south of Bordeaux, ranging from world famous vineyards such as Château d’Yquem, while others are much less well-known, and a few hardly known at all outside the region. There are a great number of fortified châteaux, many of them impressive ru…
DISCOVER SOME OF THE CHATEAUX AND MONUMENTS SOUTH OF BORDEAUX
The fortress Chateau de Roquetaillade.
When we think of French châteaux, we tend to think, first and foremost, of the Loire Valley . If you have explored those many glorious palaces in their magnificent garden settings, and love the idea of doing a châteaux-focussed trip elsewhere in France, may I strongly suggest you consider at least some of the huge number in the Gironde region just sou…
MOISSAC, A MEDIEVAL GEM IN L’OCCITANIE
The Abbaye St Pierre, Moissac
An hour’s drive north of Toulouse lies the medieval town of Moissac at the confluence of the Garonne and Tarn rivers, at the Canal de Garonne. We had been to Moissac a few years ago, drawn by the town’s medieval Abbey. It was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998 as a landmark church on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. Renowned fo…
CASTRES – AN UNKNOWN GEM IN THE LANGUEDOC, AND A RUINED ABBEY
Castres’ historic painted houses that line the river Agout.
We have been travelling around the Languedoc region on and off for many years, and this time, as well as returning to some old favourites, we were keen to seek out a few places and sights we hadn’t visited before. We thought we would drive from Marseille up towards Bordeaux, and during our research, we kept coming across the name …
IDYLLIC ISCHIA – CAPRI’S BEAUTIFUL ISLAND NEIGHBOUR
Looking across at Ischia from the Castello Aragonese
Rising from the crystal clear azure waters of il Golfo di Napoli, the island of Ischia has been a sough-after destination by visitors for centuries. Covered with lemon trees, vineyards and olive groves, Ischia is a beautiful, volcanic island that’s a haven for those seeking a beach holiday off the beaten track, but also for those interes…
DISCOVER THE MYSTERIOUS ETRUSCAN CIVILISATION AND MORE, AT TARQUINIA
Aerial view of Tarquinia.
The history of Tarquinia is inextricably connected to the history of the Etruscans. It was here that one of the first settlements of their civilisation arose, made up of a gathering of small groups that clustered together into a complex social structure and formed a city-state. Although little is visible of the once-great wealth and extent of the ancient city, to…
THE ISLAND OF ELBA – MORE THAN JUST MEMORIES OF NAPOLEON
The harbour entrance into PortoferrioBest known for being the place of Napoleon’s exile in 1814, Elba is the biggest island of the Tuscan archipelago and Italy’s third-largest island, after Sardinia and Sicily. It’s also part of the Arcipelago Toscano National Park. It has so much to offer: there are pretty beaches, good diving, charming towns, dramatic historic fortresses and great food. …
THE SPECTACULAR BEAUTY OF ITALY’S CINQUE TERRE
Manarola, one of the five towns that comprise the Cinque Terre on Italy’s Ligurian coast. Photo, Shutterstock
A century ago, the Cinque Terre were simply five fishing villages on an unforgiving, incredibly rugged stretch of the Ligurian coast of northwest Italy. With modern transport came tourism, and now hordes arrive daily to experience it all: the startlingly vibrant colour …
THE HILLTOP CITY OF LAON – MEDIEVAL CAPITAL OF FRANCE
Laon’s enormous cathedral dominates the town.
Situated high above the flat plain of northern Picardy, is the medieval city of Laon, known as the ‘Montagne Couronnée’ (the Crowned City). It sits isolated atop a 100m high limestone rock, surrounded by the low, flat plains below. The high town, encircled by 8 kms of walls and formidable gates, is France’s largest protected historic centre. …
TWO ART DECO WONDERS IN LILLE, NORTHERN FRANCE
The Art Deco La Piscine Museum, formerly a municipal swimming pool
The City of Lille in the north of France is one of the loveliest in the country. Although largely unknown outside France, Lille has so much to captivate the visitor. From a beautiful historic quarter, much of which is pedestrianised, to great food, excellent shopping possibilities, and an enormous number of cultural attrac…
DISCOVER LILLE, ONE OF FRANCE’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS
Grand Place, Lille and its beautiful Flemish-style architectue. Photo, Shutterstock
Capital of the Hautes-de-France region, Lille may be France’s most underrated city. Recent decades have seen the country’s 4th largest city transform from an industrial powerhouse into a vibrant and highly attractive cultural and commercial hub. Lille offers a beautiful old town with magnificent French and…
A ONCE-FAMOUS LONDON COURTHOUSE NOW A CHIC HOTEL
NoMad Hotel, the former Bow Street Magistrates’ Court.
The latest London hotel everyone is talking about is NoMad, the first outside New York for the group that owns it. The interesting thing though is that it occupies the former Bow Street Magistrates’ Court and Police Station, a landmark historic building. It’s located opposite the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden, and had been closed…
A DRAMATIC TRANSFORMATION OF A LONDON ICON
View of the entire Battersea Power Station complex.
Since it was decommissioned in 1983, the Battersea Power Station had stood derelict on the south bank of the River Thames. Renowned for its four chimneys and Art Deco design, after decades of decay, the iconic Grade ll* heritage listed building has undergone a massive transformation, opening in late 2022. This complex project has opened …
TWO RADICALLY DIVERSE MUSEUMS TO DISCOVER IN ROME
The entrance of Villa Farnesina facing into the garden.
For those of us who have been to Rome numerous times and have seen all or most of the city’s major monuments and museums, it’s great to come across two lesser-known attractions. These two museums are complete opposites to each other: one being a small, very fine Renaissance villa set in a beautiful garden, while the other is Rome’s ne…
TWO UNFORGETTABLE SITES IN PUGLIA
Aerial view of Castel del Monte.
Not to be missed on a visit to Puglia is a 13th century citadel, the magnificent Castel del Monte, about 70kms north of Matera. Strategically perched on a hilltop in the Murgia region at an altitude of 540m that can be seen from many kms away, it seems to dominate the entire Kingdom of Sicily, of which Puglia was a part at that time. Another site, that’s o…
MATERA – SOUTHERN ITALY’S MOST EXTRAORDINARY SITE
The Sassi cave houses of Matera
Italy’s southernmost region has many great sights and attractions, including huge fortress palaces, white-washed towns and villages, the extraordinary trullis that are only found in the Valle d’Itria, and some stunning beaches. As well as these treasures, there is one spectacular place that no visitor should miss. Matera is one of the most extraordinary des…
EXPLORING SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF PUGLIA’S VALLE D’ITRIA
The white-washed town of Ostuni, Puglia. Photo, Alamy
The Valle d’Itria is, for many people, the heart of Puglia. It’s where you’ll see the white rendered trulli houses with their stone conical roofs for which Puglia is famous, along with white-washed villages such as Alberobello and Locorotondo, and larger towns like Martina Franca and Ostuni. The rolling green valley is criss-crossed by…
CASTLES AND FORTRESSES OF PUGLIA
The enormous fortified castle at Gallipoli. Photo, Alamy
Puglia is a land of conquests and domination. Strongholds and castles stud the countryside throughout the region, majestic symbols of ancient nobility, but also a turbulent past. The castles were not built purely as residences, but rather as heavily-fortified bastions that could stand strong and invincible against all comers, whethe…
LECCE – THE BAROQUE JEWEL OF PUGLIA
The magnificent Baroque Basilica di Santa Croce, Lecce
The capital of the province of Puglia, located in the Salento region of the “heel” of Italy, Lecce is a dazzling Baroque jewel. Constructed in the local creamy limestone, the buildings of Lecce are covered with joyous, ornate carvings and adornments executed with exuberance and great skill. It is the cultural capital of Puglia, with s…
MORE THAN A MOTOR RACING CIRCUIT, THE CITY OF LE MANS IS ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS OF FRANCE
The historic Cite Plantagenet, Le Mans. Photo, Alamy
Mention the town of Le Mans, and many of us would probably first think of the motor racing circuit famous for its gruelling 24 hr. endurance race held every year in June. The majority of visitors at that event watch the race, enjoy the local cuisine and the friendly bars and leave. Amazingly, most of them never realise that there is a b…
DISCOVERING THE ANCIENT TOWN OF SOISSONS – A GREAT DAY TRIP FROM PARIS
Modern Soissons has many historic references to its vivid history.
The town of Soissons in Picardy, designated a City of Art and History, has deep, obscure roots that date back to ancient Gaul. It occupied a strategic location, much fought over by Caesar and his Roman legions and the Gallic tribes, and later became an important city in the Frankish Empire, eventually becoming its capital—t…
SENLIS – 2,000 YEARS OF HISTORY JUST A DAY TRIP FROM PARIS
The Catheddrale Notre-Dame, Senlis
The medieval town of Senlis is situated near the magnificent Château estate and town of Chantilly. It’s the kind of French town in which you could happily lose yourself for hours, wandering along the narrow, cobblestoned alleyways and soaking up its history, which stretches back to pre-Roman times. It’s perfect for a day trip from Paris, especially for t…
THE ROMAN & MEDIEVAL ERAS – TWO FACES OF VAISON LA ROMAINE
Vaison la Romaine. Photo, Alamy
Provence is renowned for some of the most spectacular and extensive remains of the Roman empire. There are sites whose main claim to fame are the vast Roman arenas—most, if not all, still in regular use—monumental arches and temples dedicated to honour a variety of deities, including emperors themselves. We all know of the Pont du Gard and the spectacular a…
L’ISLE-SUR-LA-SORGUE – THE ANTIQUES CAPITAL OF PROVENCE
The river Sorgue flows in and around the town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
Many of the towns and villages of Provence have something quite individual that has defined what they have become and what they are known for. Some have marvellous Roman ruins, stunning views, or perhaps a medieval fortress or two. L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is one of our must-visits and we often plan our itinerary around it…
SIMIANE-LA-ROTONDE & A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN – LITTLE-KNOWN GEMS IN HAUTE PROVENCE
Approaching the perched village of Simiane-la-Rotonde.
We tend to think that there’s not many undiscovered places left in Provence these days. However, there are interesting little corners of the region that still remain relatively untouched and almost devoid of visitors. Simiane-la-Rotonde is one such place: clinging to a small hill on a high plateau to the northeast of Apt and the Luber…
ITALY’S IDYLLIC LAKE GARDA
The moat and drawbridge of the medieval fortress guards the entrance into Sirmione. Photo, Alamy
There aren’t many places in Europe more beautiful than Italy’s Lago di Garda. Its stunning scenery is due to the extensive backdrop of the Dolomite mountains to the north, together with all the picturesque towns and medieval villages dotted along its shore, it’s the perfect region to …
THE BEAUTIFUL RENAISSANCE CITY OF FERRARA
Castello Estense is in the centre of Ferrara. Photo, Alamy
The north of Italy has an abundance of riches for the visitor, and it’s almost impossible to make a list of top favourites. There’s the sublime beauty of the various lakes, the glories of Venice, and numerous small Renaissance cities to choose from. We’ve spent many wonderful trips exploring these Renaissance gems over decades, an…
VENICE DURING THE BIENNALE
Venice is always magical whether it’s a Biennale year or not.
We revisited Venice a few weeks ago for the first time since COVID shut down the world for travellers. Venice has been one of our top favourite cities for many decades, and this was to be our 4th Biennale, so we were interested to see what changes had occurred to La Serenissima since our last visit. Would it still be magical, o…
THE MAGNIFICENT BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE DE FRANCE HAS FINALLY RE-OPENED
The spectacular Reading Room, with its Byzantine-inspired multi-domed ceiling.
We had been walking past this enormous complex for years speculating about when it might re-open, wondering if we’d ever get to visit it one day. Imagine our surprise and delight when we saw the enormous posters announcing its re-opening in the metro stations on our first day back in Paris! It was still closed …
THE MYSTERIOUS KNIGHTS TEMPLARS AND THE ORIGINS OF THE MARAIS DISTRICT –
A depiction by Hoffbauer of the Enclos du Temple in 15450. Photo, Alamy
This district of Paris is one of the most historic and fascinating in the city. Nowadays, it’s known for hip boutiques, quirky art galleries, great cafes, restaurants and fresh food, a couple of delightful squares, and some of the best museums in the city. Although its origins were far from auspicious, it’s a place we…
LE MARCHÉ BASTILLE-RICHARD LENOIR—A GUARANTEED CULINARY ADVENTURE
The Marche Bastille – Richard-Lenoir. Photo, Alamy
There are dozens of outdoor markets in Paris, at least two in each of the city’s 20 arrondissements. Probably the largest, and many argue the best, is the fantastic Marché Richard-Lenoir—more commonly called the Marche Bastille, held Thursdays and Sundays along the grand Boulevard Richard Lenoir, just north of the Place de la Bastille. Th…
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO: A PERFECT DAY IN PARC DE SCEAUX – ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS NEAR PARIS
The Chateau de Sceaux.
If you’re looking for a very pleasant and interesting day trip from Paris, and you’ve already visited the big headline sites such as Versailles or Fontainebleau, the charming town of Sceaux is certainly one that offers everything you could wish for. Known for its rich architectural heritage, its picture-perfect château, museums, 13th century church, and magnificent p…
DISCOVERING THE BEAUTIFUL PARC MONCEAU AND ITS ELEGANT NEIGHBOURHOOD
The classical colonnade and pond in Parc Monceau. Photo, Alamy
In the last two posts, we have looked at two outstanding Paris museums, relatively little-known to visitors, both located in the 8th arrondissement, one just around the corner from the other. They are both close by the Parc Monceau, one of the most interesting and beautiful parks in the city, at the junction of Bvd. de Courcell…
THE CERNUSCHI MUSEUM OF ASIAN ART, PARIS
The grand staircase of the Musee Cernuschi. Photo, Alamy
The Musée Cernuschi is relatively unknown to most visitors to Paris. Located on a quiet, leafy street that leads up to the beautiful Parc Monceau in an ultra-exclusive area of the 8th arrondissement, it’s just around the corner from the Musée Nissim de Camondo. The Cernuschi is an Asian art museum, mostly specialising in works from …
WALKING THROUGH A WORK OF ART – MONET’S GARDENS AT GIVERNY
Front entrance to Monet’s house in Giverny. Photo, Alamy
We have often been asked about visiting Monet’s gardens at Giverny. How difficult is it to get there independently, or is it best to take a tour from Paris? Is it really worth it, or has it become a victim of tourist hype? Are the hordes of visitors a turn-off? Is it possible for those who want to experience the atmosphere and tra…
A FEAST OF FESTIVALS IN FRANCE
One of the many fabulous displays made of citrus fruit during the Fete du Citron, Menton.
From history to fantasy, and everything in between, there are plenty of festivals in France where you can experience the country’s vibrant culture. These events celebrate everything from the latest movies, the medieval period, art, wine, parks & gardens, kites, lemons, and dragons, to theatre, ope…
L’HÔTEL DE LA MARINE – A TOUCH OF VERSAILLES IN THE HEART OF PARIS
Th Hotel de la Marine faces onto Place de la Concorde.
If you’ve been to Paris more than once, very likely you have been past the Hôtel de la Marine. This is not a hotel in which you stay, but a hôtel particulier of epic proportions. A “real” hotel, the historic, luxury Hôtel de Crillon, is adjacent. These opulent 18th century buildings are a perfectly balanced pair facing onto Place de …
LA SAMARITAINE, AN ICONIC PARISIAN DEPARTMENT STORE REBORN
The beautifully restored Art Nouveau interior of La Samaritaine.
La Samaritaine has finally re-emerged, like the phoenix rising, if not from the ashes, from a long hibernation of neglect and deterioration that left a gap on the city skyline between the river Seine and the busy rue de Rivoli. Its recent re-opening was a much anticipated event. After 16 long years of closure, renovations, …
A PARISIAN LANDMARK REIMAGINED: LA BOURSE DE COMMERCE–PINAULT COLLECTION
La Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Collection.
Over the last two years, despite the severe COVID restrictions, Paris somehow managed to work on a number of extraordinary cultural projects, most of which have now opened. These were not small-scale ventures by any means. As I’ve mentioned previously, two of these were the complete refurbishment of the enormous Musée Carnavalet, now re-opened, a…
LA GALERIE DIOR – A HOMAGE TO THE ARTISTRY OF THE ‘MASTER OF DREAMS’
Poster of the 1947 Bar Suit from the ‘Corolle’ collection by Christian Dior.
Near the top of our list of must-sees on our recent visit to Paris was the Christian Dior museum, La Galerie Dior, which I briefly mentioned in the last blog. I had read about its official opening, just 3 weeks before we hit town. A good friend of ours, the manager of the beautiful Zegna menswear boutique on Ave…
PARIS—AND THE REST OF FRANCE—ARE BACK IN BUSINESS!
A perfect spring day in the Upper Marais.
As some of you know, we have just returned from 5 weeks in France. It was a truly wonderful trip, spending 3 weeks in Paris before heading down to the glorious Burgundy district for almost 2 weeks. Like everyone for whom travel is an essential part of life, we were anxious to spread our wings and head back to our favourite destination after the C…
MUSÉE NISSIM DE CAMONDO – A MAGNIFICENT MANSION DEDICATED TO THE 18TH CENTURY
The design of the mansion was inspired by the Petit Trianon at Versailles.
There are so many wonderful museums in Paris, selecting which ones to visit when you’ve got limited time is a challenge. We certainly have our favourites, and we also keep an eye on websites of Paris cultural institutions to check if there will be any special shows on during our next visit. One of our favourites s…
A NEW WAVE OF MUSEUM RESTAURANTS IN PARIS
Girafe Restaurant at the Cite de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, Palais de Chaillot.
In a city that boasts over 140 museums, and a food culture that’s worth travelling from the other side of the world for, it a natural fit that there are going to be cafes and restaurants in certain Paris museums that are as worth visiting as the museums themselves. Some museum restaurants have become ico…
MUSEE GUIMET – 5,000 YEARS OF ASIAN ART IN PARIS
The Naga on the Causeway of the Giants, 12th century Cambodian.
When we think of museums in Paris, what immediately springs to mind are the internationally famous institutions such as the Louvre, Quai d’Orsay, Pompidou Centre, and perhaps the recent addition of the Fondation Louis Vuitton. But Paris also has the largest and most important collection of Asian artefacts in Europe at the Mus…
PALAIS GALLIERA – THE PARIS MUSEUM OF FASHION
Palais Galliera in its garden setting.
A stone’s throw from some of the most prestigious haute couture houses and designer boutiques in the city, the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris is housed in the Italian Renaissance-inspired Palais Galliera. The museum preserves some of the richest collections in the world, estimated at around 200,000 items of clothing, accessories, photographs, …
THE TROCADERO – PANORAMIC VIEWS, BEAUTIFUL GARDENS, FOUR MAJOR CULTURAL INSTITUTIONS, AND A SUPRISING SECRET
The vast Palais de Chaillot complex at the Trocadero.
Situated on the opposite side of the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, the Trocadéro is well and truly on the must-visit list for offering the best view of the most recognisable monument in Paris. It is also home to beautiful gardens, ornamental ponds and fountains that stretch down to the river, as well as the richness of the Palais de Chai…
PASSY – WHERE QUIET VILLAGE CHARM MEETS CULTURE & LUXURY
An Art Nouveau residential building in Passy
The 16th arrondissement of Paris is best known to visitors for its great landmarks and museums, from the Musée Marmottan-Monet, the Palais Galliera and Musée Guimet, to the Place de la Trocadero and the Palais Chaillot, affording dramatic views of the Eiffel Tower on the opposite bank of the Seine. But the 16th also has corners of quiet, resid…
RUE OBERKAMPF – A VIBRANT PARISIAN NEIGHBOURHOOD
The Cirque d’Hiver.
Beyond the iconic Place de la Republique—where Parisians gathered in their thousands after the 2015 attacks on their city—is a fascinating network of streets crammed with some of the city’s hippest venues, chic bars, great bistros, old craft workshops and up-and-coming designer boutiques. In Paris’ 11th arrondissement, rue Oberkampf and the streets around it offer an i…
TWO SECRET VILLAGES IN PARIS
La Butte aux Cailles is a delightful location for a quiet stroll.
If you’ve been to Paris a few times, no doubt you’ve taken in the big, headline monuments and sites such as the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Louvre, walked along the Champs Elysees and shopped ’til you dropped in Galeries Lafayette. These iconic places are internationally famous for a very good reason, but for your next v…
MORE GREAT SIGHTS TO DISCOVER IN THE DORDOGNE
Rocamadour at sunset.
Recently we’ve been looking at a number of beautiful places to visit in the Dordogne—a region blessed with a wealth of attractions. There are many beautiful villages—a number of which are members of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France organisation—enough to keep a visitor occupied for weeks. The region has some lovely towns and stunning châteaux and romantic ruins to …
THE REMARKABLE LIFE OF JOSEPHINE BAKER – CABARET STAR, RESISTANCE HEROINE, ACTIVIST AND OWNER OF A DORDOGNE CHATEAU
Josephine wearing her famous banana costume.
Iconic entertainer of the Jazz Age, famous for her risqué performances, Josephine Baker’s extraordinary story is one of perseverance, bravery, and incredible talent. She was a force to be reckoned with, whether fighting racism in her native America or spying on top Nazis. She found new ways to challenge those who sought to diminish or silence h…
SARLAT, MEDIEVAL GEM OF THE DORDOGNE
The beautiful medieval town of Sarlat in the Dordogne.
The town of Sarlat-la-Canéda is the capital of the Périgord Noir. Located between the Dordogne and Vézère Valleys, it is regarded as having one of the most beautiful and cohesive collection of medieval buildings in Europe and classified as a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire. Sarlat has the highest density of listed historic buildings per sq…
LES PLUS BEAUX VILLAGES IN THE DORDOGNE-PÉRIGORD
Views such as this are typical of the Dordogne-Perigord region.
Boasting more villages designated as Les Plus Beaux Villages de France than any other region, except perhaps Provence, the Dordogne has some of the finest treasures of natural and cultural heritage in the country. You’ll find fortress châteaux, churches, honey-coloured stone buildings, troglodyte cave dwellings, ancient barns…
LES PLUS BEAUX VILLAGES DE FRANCE
The village of Polignac and its fortress, listed in Sept. 2021.
In September 2021 two more villages achieved the highly prized acceptance into the association of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, namely Polignac in the Haute-Loire, and Le Malzieu-Ville in the Lozere. It’s certainly no secret that France abounds with picture-perfect destinations. If you’ve ever spent time exploring rural…
WHEN A PARIS PÉNICHE IS MORE THAN JUST A BARGE
A variety of boats & peniches moored along the Seine in Paris.
One of the most pleasant ways to relax in Paris is to take a stroll along the banks of the Seine. It’s a busy, working river with a constant flow of craft of all descriptions. Ranging from the many tourist boats crammed with sightseers enjoying the unique perspective of the city’s great landmarks from the river, to seriou…
MONT SAINT-MICHEL, NORMANDY’S JEWEL IN THE CROWN
Rising tide at sunset, Mont Saint-Michel.
It is surely one of the most stunningly beautiful sights in Europe, and in its setting in a bay shared by Normandy and Brittany, Le Mont Saint-Michel draws the eye from a great distance. It has been a great Christian pilgrimage site from the early 8th century when a local bishop claimed that the Archangel Michael himself came to him in a vision an…
ROUEN- NORMANDY’S VIBRANT, HISTORIC & CULTURAL CAPITAL
The Gros Horloge Rouen.
Situated on the banks of the river Seine, Rouen is the capital of the Haute Normandie region. An active port and commercial city even in the Roman era and Middle ages, Rouen has a number of ornate Gothic churches, beautiful medieval half-timbered houses, a cobblestoned pedestrian centre and its famous astronomical clock. Even if you’ve never been there, you’ll lik…
HISTORIC NORMANDY – FROM THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY, CHÂTEAUX, MEDIEVAL TOWNS & A RICH CUISINE
Beauvour-Druval, on the Route de Cidre.
Normandy offers a rich feast of contrasts for the visitor, ranging from fashionable beach resorts, stunning scenery that inspired the Impressionists and the dramatic coast of the D-Day Landings, which we’ve touched on in the last couple of blogs. There’s a whole lot more to explore though, from historic artefacts, medieval fairs and ruined abbeys, t…
NORMANDY AND THE D-DAY LANDINGS
‘The Braves’ sculpture on Omaha Beach.
As well as the delightful seaside towns such as Deauville, Trouville and Honfleur and the extraordinary natural phenomena of Étretat, there’s another important aspect of the Normandy coast. It’s something of a pilgrimage site for travellers who want to visit the landscape of the momentous day that changed the course of history. The D-Day Landings ju…
EXPLORING SOME HIGHLIGHTS OF NORMANDY’S NORTH COAST
The dramatic white falaises at Etretat.
If Deauville is the most recognised resort in Normandy, with its long, sandy beach, grand Belle Epoque hotels and typical Norman houses, it’s only the introduction to so many outstanding attractions that the region has to offer with its beautiful, varied scenery and rich history. Boasting gorgeous countryside, coastline and woodlands, as well as imp…
DEAUVILLE, THE RIVIERA OF NORMANDY, AND COCO CHANEL
Sketch of Coco Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld, attached to the shop where she opened her first boutique.
Just 2 ½ hrs from Paris by train, Deauville is a favourite destination for many well-heeled Parisians looking for a weekend getaway. It’s often referred to as the Queen of the Normandy coast, ‘Paris-sur-Mer’ or the Kingdom of Elegance. Notable for its long sandy beach, beautiful Belle Epoque…
GREAT FOOD MARKETS TO DISCOVER IN PARIS
Springtime at Marche d’Aligre: perfect asparagus & morels.
One of the great pleasures of a visit to Paris is spending time exploring the many wonderful food markets. You can take your pick from 69 open-air and 13 covered markets in the city, meaning that some arrondissements have more than one market. Everyone has their personal favourites, and we certainly have ours, but we also lov…
SOME LESSER-KNOWN GEMS OF THE CHAMPAGNE DISTRICT
The vineyards and village of Ay.
There are many good reasons to plan a visit to the Champagne District. By focussing on the two Champagne “capitals”—the city of Reims and the town of Épernay, the visitor is missing out on so many other attractions of this unique area. This region is rich with World Heritage sites, history and art. It’s easy to spend a couple of extra days divided between…
THE CHAMPAGNE EXPERIENCE – THE REGION AND ITS PLEASURES
Just a small selection of great Champagnes!
Say the word “Champagne”, and the first thing that springs to mind is the iconic sparkling white wine named for the region in N.E. France where it’s produced. It’s an area that’s close to Paris for a quick weekend visit, but it has so much more to offer! Champagne is world-renowned as a symbol of the French art of living, of festivities and cel…
DISCOVER THE FASCINATING MEDIEVAL CITY OF TROYES
The medieval heart of Troyes.
Troyes is one of the most alluring and interesting medieval towns in France. It’s easy to spend at least a couple of days wandering around, in and out of many historic buildings, fascinating museums, and the numerous beautiful churches. Its medieval core invites you to stop and enjoy one of the many enticing cafés and restaurants, watch the world go by and e…
THE MUSÉE MARMOTTAN MONET – A LITTLE-KNOWN GEM IN PARIS
‘Impression, Sunrise’ by Monet, which inspired the name of the Impressionist movement.
A description that’s often used to describe the Musée Marmottan Monet is that it’s a “hidden” gem. Rather, I’d say it’s perhaps more overlooked than hidden, given its location in the chic Passy neighbourhood in the 16th arr. on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne, beside one of the loveliest parks in Paris….
LE CHÂTEAU DE VINCENNES – A MEDIEVAL FORTRESS IN PARIS
Th medieval fortress of Chateau de Vincennes.
When you think of châteaux in the Paris area, Versailles is likely the first that would spring to mind. For its sheer beauty, opulence and size, not to mention the wonderful gardens and parklands surrounding it, it’s no wonder that Versailles is one of the most visited destinations in the entire country. However, for those who have “been ther…
WHEN SHOPS TRANSFORM INTO ‘CONCEPT’ STORES
A small Parisian fashion studio that concentrates on handwork embellishment.
Paris has long been famous as a world capital of fashion and design, but it is also a city with a wealth of exciting design concept stores bursting with products unique to France. It’s a country and a society with a history of commitment to artisan craft skills, a deep appreciation of the handmade object, innovat…
RUE MOUFFETARD – A PARIS STREET PAVED WITH HISTORY
There are many delightful cafes in rue Mouffetard.
Around every corner of Paris you will find streets full of history. The secret to discovering the real Paris is to detour off the grand boulevards, famous squares and enticing shopping streets. If you delight in discovering special places, little nooks and crannies, narrow, ancient, pedestrianised streets beloved by locals but unknown to …
NANTES – THRIVING CITY AT THE MOUTH OF THE LOIRE
The mechanical Great Elephone, one of the Machines de L’Ile de Nantes.
The city of Nantes in western France is located just 50kms from the Atlantic Ocean. Nowadays, it’s the capital of the Pays de la Loire Region, but will always be known as the capital of Brittany, when the Dukes of Brittany ruled from here until the Duchy was united with France in the 16th century. The city is home to …
THE LURE OF THE LOIRE – PART 2
Chateau d’Usse and part of the gardens.
As we’ve seen in the previous post, the Loire Valley has a wealth of lively towns and villages, plus world renowned vineyards and enchanting scenery to keep any visitor happily engaged for numerous visits. Not only are the many châteaux a window into a world of grandeur and history, it’s possible to have a more personal experience of these historic …
THE LURE OF THE LOIRE: EXPLORING ITS CHATEAUX, GARDENS & SO MUCH MORE – PART ONE
Beautiful scenery abounds all along the river Loire.
With an abundance of charming historic towns and villages, world famous vineyards, beautiful gardens, sweeping forests, great architectural monuments and majestic châteaux, the “Garden of France”, and “The Valley of Kings,” as the region is variously known, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a must-see for a memorable visit t…
DISCOVER THE RICHES OF THE MARCHÉ AUX PUCES, PARIS
Marche Paul Bert.
To call the Marché aux Puces in Paris a “flea market” is an understatement. Regarded as the largest market of its kind in the world and with around 180,000-200,000 visitors each weekend, at first sight its sheer size can be a very daunting prospect. It is in fact a whole series of markets, segmented according to category and price level, ranging from vendors selling muse…
FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD – HOW TO SHOP AND EAT LIKE A LOCAL IN PARIS
Said to be the oldest patisserie in Paris, Stohrer is in rue Montorgueil.
Paris is Europe’s most densely populated city, and offers a mind-boggling array of food offers. There are even local Parisian products available, if you know where to look. One of the great advantages of renting an apartment rather than staying in a hotel is that you can explore so many wonderful culinary treats fr…
A WONDERFUL DAY TRIP FROM PARIS – CHÂTEAU DE CHANTILLY
The Chateau de Chantilly and its domaine.
Although France has so many impressive châteaux scattered throughout the country, there is one that never fails to take your breath away. The Château de Chantilly in Picardy is one of the most spectacular in France, set in a vast estate of 7,800 hectares. At less than 50kms from the centre of Paris, armed with your Navigo Pass it’s easily accessib…
ALL DRESSED UP FOR CHRISTMAS!
Printemps Dept. store on Bvd. Haussmann.
France is famous for its illuminations during the festive season. Despite the huge drop in numbers of visitors, and almost in defiance of the difficulties faced by everyone during this extraordinary year, Paris in particular is dressed with its usual impressive lighting displays to celebrate the holiday season.
ART NOUVEAU TREASURES OF THE PARISIAN BELLE ÉPOQUE
Cnr. rue de l’Eglise & Place Etienne Pernet, 15th arr.
The Belle Époque lasted from the 1870s to the beginning of World War One, and was at its height in Paris during the 1890s and 1900s. It was a period of great optimism and cultural innovation. It was an exciting time for art and theatre, as well as a new architectural movement generally referred to as Art Nouveau, which swept acro…
STEPPING BACK IN TIME: DISCOVERING ROMAN PARIS
The Musee de Cluny, with the Roman figidarium.
There aren’t many regions in Western Europe that were not once occupied by the Romans, and the city of Paris is no exception. When we think of modern day Paris, it’s probably more likely to be medieval marvels such as Notre Dame or Sainte Chapelle, perhaps monuments of the French Renaissance, Classical revival, the Belle Epoque, and of course…