A MESSAGE FROM PARIS PLUS PLUS
Dear Paris Plus Plus Subscribers,
As I’m sure many of you will be aware, there has been a gap over the last month or so of my blog posts. While some of you have continued to receive each post, many of you have not—perhaps starting to think that I had stopped writing them.
The reason for this gap is due to a new system of distribution via a…
DISCOVERING BORDEAUX
The city of Bordeaux is now such a pleasure to visit and explore, with a rich historic heritage of elegant historic stone buildings, impressive monuments that invite the visitor to stroll along its pedestrian streets, into any number of bistros, Michelin-starred restaurants, wine bars and enticing shops that draw you in. The city today bears little resemblance to the first time we saw it, decades ago now, when the fine stone buildings were grimy, blackened fro…
SAINT ÉMILION – WORLD FAMOUS WINES, MEDIEVAL MONUMENTS AND CAPTIVATING SCENERY
Saint-Émilion is a charming medieval village, perched on a promontory, located in the heart of the famous Bordeaux wine area. It is a unique site where world famous wineries produce fine wine, and together with beautiful architecture and great monuments, are a perfect match. We had visited this lovely village very briefly many years ago, and as we were based in Bordeaux for some days, it was the ideal opportunity to head to Saint-Émilion on the convenient loc…
AN EXTRAORDINARY DIGITAL ART SPACE AND A UNIQUE EXHIBITION BUILDING DEVOTED TO THE WORLD OF WINE
It had been some years since our last visit to Bordeaux, and the city has acquired a couple of great new attractions. One we were keen to visit turned out to be of the most remarkable cultural venues we have ever seen. We were familiar with Culturespaces’ Paris space, the Atelier des Lumières, housed in a former iron foundry, which itself is a fantastic venue that we always try and visit every time there’s a new show. Their latest venue in Bordeaux, the Bass…
MORE GREAT ATTRACTIONS TO DISCOVER SOUTH OF BORDEAUX
Our travels in this region revealed far more than we had expected. There is such a wealth of great places to visit just south of Bordeaux, ranging from world famous vineyards such as Château d’Yquem, while others are much less well-known, and a few hardly known at all outside the region. There are a great number of fortified châteaux, many of them impressive ruins, while some are still lived in today. There are pretty bastide villages, imposing cathedrals, a…
DISCOVER SOME OF THE CHATEAUX AND MONUMENTS SOUTH OF BORDEAUX
When we think of French châteaux, we tend to think, first and foremost, of the Loire Valley . If you have explored those many glorious palaces in their magnificent garden settings, and love the idea of doing a châteaux-focussed trip elsewhere in France, may I strongly suggest you consider at least some of the huge number in the Gironde region just south of Bordeaux. Unlike most of the Loire châteaux, many of those in the Gironde started off very much as fortr…
MOISSAC, A MEDIEVAL GEM IN L’OCCITANIE
An hour’s drive north of Toulouse lies the medieval town of Moissac at the confluence of the Garonne and Tarn rivers, at the Canal de Garonne. We had been to Moissac a few years ago, drawn by the town’s medieval Abbey. It was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998 as a landmark church on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. Renowned for its magnificent sculptures, and especially for its beautiful cloister, the Abbey is one of the count…
CASTRES – AN UNKNOWN GEM IN THE LANGUEDOC, AND A RUINED ABBEY
We have been travelling around the Languedoc region on and off for many years, and this time, as well as returning to some old favourites, we were keen to seek out a few places and sights we hadn’t visited before. We thought we would drive from Marseille up towards Bordeaux, and during our research, we kept coming across the name of what sounded like a most interesting town. Located about 73 kms east of Toulouse and 45 kms south east of Albi, lies the picture…
IDYLLIC ISCHIA – CAPRI’S BEAUTIFUL ISLAND NEIGHBOUR
Rising from the crystal clear azure waters of il Golfo di Napoli, the island of Ischia has been a sough-after destination by visitors for centuries. Covered with lemon trees, vineyards and olive groves, Ischia is a beautiful, volcanic island that’s a haven for those seeking a beach holiday off the beaten track, but also for those interested in its vibrant, often violent, history dating back thousands of years. Here, glamorous hotels mix with more secluded acc…
DISCOVER THE MYSTERIOUS ETRUSCAN CIVILISATION AND MORE, AT TARQUINIA
The history of Tarquinia is inextricably connected to the history of the Etruscans. It was here that one of the first settlements of their civilisation arose, made up of a gathering of small groups that clustered together into a complex social structure and formed a city-state. Although little is visible of the once-great wealth and extent of the ancient city, today Tarquinia is famous for its ancient Etruscan tombs in the widespread necropoli, or cemeteries…
THE ISLAND OF ELBA – MORE THAN JUST MEMORIES OF NAPOLEON
Best known for being the place of Napoleon’s exile in 1814, Elba is the biggest island of the Tuscan archipelago and Italy’s third-largest island, after Sardinia and Sicily. It’s also part of the Arcipelago Toscano National Park. It has so much to offer: there are pretty beaches, good diving, charming towns, dramatic historic fortresses and great food. Lying less than 10 kms from the mainland, it’s easily accessed by a frequent and efficient ferry service from…
THE SPECTACULAR BEAUTY OF ITALY’S CINQUE TERRE
A century ago, the Cinque Terre were simply five fishing villages on an unforgiving, incredibly rugged stretch of the Ligurian coast of northwest Italy. With modern transport came tourism, and now hordes arrive daily to experience it all: the startlingly vibrant colour of the Mediterranean, the wildly rugged coastline, scenic hiking tracks and the tiny towns tucked into the dramatically steep valleys.
THE HILLTOP CITY OF LAON – MEDIEVAL CAPITAL OF FRANCE
Situated high above the flat plain of northern Picardy, is the medieval city of Laon, known as the ‘Montagne Couronnée’ (the Crowned City). It sits isolated atop a 100m high limestone rock, surrounded by the low, flat plains below. The high town, encircled by 8 kms of walls and formidable gates, is France’s largest protected historic centre. The town’s crowning glory is the early 12th century Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon, visible for kilometres in every dir…
TWO ART DECO WONDERS IN LILLE, NORTHERN FRANCE
The City of Lille in the north of France is one of the loveliest in the country. Although largely unknown outside France, Lille has so much to captivate the visitor. From a beautiful historic quarter, much of which is pedestrianised, to great food, excellent shopping possibilities, and an enormous number of cultural attractions. Two of these are Art Deco gems, located outside the city in the suburbs of Roubaix and Croix, just a quick metro or tram ride from…
DISCOVER LILLE, ONE OF FRANCE’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS
Capital of the Hautes-de-France region, Lille may be France’s most underrated city. Recent decades have seen the country’s 4th largest city transform from an industrial powerhouse into a vibrant and highly attractive cultural and commercial hub. Lille offers a beautiful old town with magnificent French and Flemish architecture, renowned art museums, a wide variety of great shops, outstanding cuisine, and a lively atmosphere thanks to a large population of uni…
A ONCE-FAMOUS LONDON COURTHOUSE NOW A CHIC HOTEL
The latest London hotel everyone is talking about is NoMad, the first outside New York for the group that owns it. The interesting thing though is that it occupies the former Bow Street Magistrates’ Court and Police Station, a landmark historic building. It’s located opposite the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden, and had been closed since 2006. It was the most famous Magistrates’ Court in England in the latter part of its 266 year existence, being the venu…
A DRAMATIC TRANSFORMATION OF A LONDON ICON
Since it was decommissioned in 1983, the Battersea Power Station had stood derelict on the south bank of the River Thames. Renowned for its four chimneys and Art Deco design, after decades of decay, the iconic Grade ll* heritage listed building has undergone a massive transformation, opening in late 2022. This complex project has opened the building and riverside to the public for the first time, retaining the power station’s unique historical features, but g…
TWO RADICALLY DIVERSE MUSEUMS TO DISCOVER IN ROME
For those of us who have been to Rome numerous times and have seen all or most of the city’s major monuments and museums, it’s great to come across two lesser-known attractions. These two museums are complete opposites to each other: one being a small, very fine Renaissance villa set in a beautiful garden, while the other is Rome’s newest gallery of contemporary art and architecture, housed in a former automobile factory with a dramatic extension by the late Z…
TWO UNFORGETTABLE SITES IN PUGLIA
Not to be missed on a visit to Puglia is a 13th century citadel, the magnificent Castel del Monte, about 70kms north of Matera. Strategically perched on a hilltop in the Murgia region at an altitude of 540m that can be seen from many kms away, it seems to dominate the entire Kingdom of Sicily, of which Puglia was a part at that time. Another site, that’s one of the country’s most historically important, is Cannae. Anyone who has ever heard of Hannibal will d…
MATERA – SOUTHERN ITALY’S MOST EXTRAORDINARY SITE
Italy’s southernmost region has many great sights and attractions, including huge fortress palaces, white-washed towns and villages, the extraordinary trullis that are only found in the Valle d’Itria, and some stunning beaches. As well as these treasures, there is one spectacular place that no visitor should miss. Matera is one of the most extraordinary destinations in Italy. This remarkable city, the third oldest continuously inhabited in the world, that on…
EXPLORING SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF PUGLIA’S VALLE D’ITRIA
The Valle d’Itria is, for many people, the heart of Puglia. It’s where you’ll see the white rendered trulli houses with their stone conical roofs for which Puglia is famous, along with white-washed villages such as Alberobello and Locorotondo, and larger towns like Martina Franca and Ostuni. The rolling green valley is criss-crossed by dry-stone walls, vineyards, ancient olive and almond groves and winding country lanes. It’s a visitor’s dream location.
CASTLES AND FORTRESSES OF PUGLIA
Puglia is a land of conquests and domination. Strongholds and castles stud the countryside throughout the region, majestic symbols of ancient nobility, but also a turbulent past. The castles were not built purely as residences, but rather as heavily-fortified bastions that could stand strong and invincible against all comers, whether by land or by sea. There are no mountain peaks for Puglia’s castle strongholds. Instead, its horizon traces, almost without i…
LECCE – THE BAROQUE JEWEL OF PUGLIA
The capital of the province of Puglia, located in the Salento region of the “heel” of Italy, Lecce is a dazzling Baroque jewel. Constructed in the local creamy limestone, the buildings of Lecce are covered with joyous, ornate carvings and adornments executed with exuberance and great skill. It is the cultural capital of Puglia, with so many monuments, churches, palazzi and museums, that it is often referred to as “the Florence of the South”. With its elegant…
MORE THAN A MOTOR RACING CIRCUIT, THE CITY OF LE MANS IS ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS OF FRANCE
Mention the town of Le Mans, and many of us would probably first think of the motor racing circuit famous for its gruelling 24 hr. endurance race held every year in June. The majority of visitors at that event watch the race, enjoy the local cuisine and the friendly bars and leave. Amazingly, most of them never realise that there is a beautiful old town so close by. The don’t see the Roman ruins, they miss the narrow cobble-stoned streets lined with half-tim…
DISCOVERING THE ANCIENT TOWN OF SOISSONS – A GREAT DAY TRIP FROM PARIS
The town of Soissons in Picardy, designated a City of Art and History, has deep, obscure roots that date back to ancient Gaul. It occupied a strategic location, much fought over by Caesar and his Roman legions and the Gallic tribes, and later became an important city in the Frankish Empire, eventually becoming its capital—the first of France. If you enjoy discovering little-known destinations that offer important historic monuments, a magnificent Gothic cathe…
SENLIS – 2,000 YEARS OF HISTORY JUST A DAY TRIP FROM PARIS
The medieval town of Senlis is situated near the magnificent Château estate and town of Chantilly. It’s the kind of French town in which you could happily lose yourself for hours, wandering along the narrow, cobblestoned alleyways and soaking up its history, which stretches back to pre-Roman times. It’s perfect for a day trip from Paris, especially for those who have already visited Versailles and Fontainebleau, and are looking for another rewarding experienc…
THE ROMAN & MEDIEVAL ERAS – TWO FACES OF VAISON LA ROMAINE
Provence is renowned for some of the most spectacular and extensive remains of the Roman empire. There are sites whose main claim to fame are the vast Roman arenas—most, if not all, still in regular use—monumental arches and temples dedicated to honour a variety of deities, including emperors themselves. We all know of the Pont du Gard and the spectacular arenas in Arles and Nimes, the theatre in Orange etc., and the many other great destinations in Provence…
L’ISLE-SUR-LA-SORGUE – THE ANTIQUES CAPITAL OF PROVENCE
Many of the towns and villages of Provence have something quite individual that has defined what they have become and what they are known for. Some have marvellous Roman ruins, stunning views, or perhaps a medieval fortress or two. L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is one of our must-visits and we often plan our itinerary around its most famous attraction—the Sunday market which takes over the entire historic centre of town. However, there’s even more to discover in this…
SIMIANE-LA-ROTONDE & A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN – LITTLE-KNOWN GEMS IN HAUTE PROVENCE
We tend to think that there’s not many undiscovered places left in Provence these days. However, there are interesting little corners of the region that still remain relatively untouched and almost devoid of visitors. Simiane-la-Rotonde is one such place: clinging to a small hill on a high plateau to the northeast of Apt and the Luberon, with groves of pines and cypresses rising up the slopes. One of its great joys is that in June and July, the surrounding f…
ITALY’S IDYLLIC LAKE GARDA
There aren’t many places in Europe more beautiful than Italy’s Lago di Garda. Its stunning scenery is due to the extensive backdrop of the Dolomite mountains to the north, together with all the picturesque towns and medieval villages dotted along its shore, it’s the perfect region to spend some time. It has long been a favourite destination of ours, and we tend to gravitate to the beautiful town of Sirmione on the southern shore, which is a great ba…
THE BEAUTIFUL RENAISSANCE CITY OF FERRARA
The north of Italy has an abundance of riches for the visitor, and it’s almost impossible to make a list of top favourites. There’s the sublime beauty of the various lakes, the glories of Venice, and numerous small Renaissance cities to choose from. We’ve spent many wonderful trips exploring these Renaissance gems over decades, and they all have their own unique character and attractions. Recently, we re-visited the beautiful city of Ferrara, a little over 1…
VENICE DURING THE BIENNALE
We revisited Venice a few weeks ago for the first time since COVID shut down the world for travellers. Venice has been one of our top favourite cities for many decades, and this was to be our 4th Biennale, so we were interested to see what changes had occurred to La Serenissima since our last visit. Would it still be magical, or a crowded nightmare now that the world has re-opened for travel? We were keen to find out.
THE MAGNIFICENT BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE DE FRANCE HAS FINALLY RE-OPENED
We had been walking past this enormous complex for years speculating about when it might re-open, wondering if we’d ever get to visit it one day. Imagine our surprise and delight when we saw the enormous posters announcing its re-opening in the metro stations on our first day back in Paris! It was still closed on our earlier visit in April, with no hint as to when it would re-open. This is arguably the most important, and certainly largest, of the numerous n…
THE MYSTERIOUS KNIGHTS TEMPLARS AND THE ORIGINS OF THE MARAIS DISTRICT –
This district of Paris is one of the most historic and fascinating in the city. Nowadays, it’s known for hip boutiques, quirky art galleries, great cafes, restaurants and fresh food, a couple of delightful squares, and some of the best museums in the city. Although its origins were far from auspicious, it’s a place we always head to for all these attractions and much more. It’s an enticing melange of ancient and traditional plus contemporary and slightly qui…
LE MARCHÉ BASTILLE-RICHARD LENOIR—A GUARANTEED CULINARY ADVENTURE
There are dozens of outdoor markets in Paris, at least two in each of the city’s 20 arrondissements. Probably the largest, and many argue the best, is the fantastic Marché Richard-Lenoir—more commonly called the Marche Bastille, held Thursdays and Sundays along the grand Boulevard Richard Lenoir, just north of the Place de la Bastille. The focus is the wonderful range of foods grown by local area farmers, quite a few of which are certified organic growers. A…
TRAVELS WITH YOUR NAVIGO: A PERFECT DAY IN PARC DE SCEAUX – ONE OF THE BEST KEPT SECRETS NEAR PARIS
If you’re looking for a very pleasant and interesting day trip from Paris, and you’ve already visited the big headline sites such as Versailles or Fontainebleau, the charming town of Sceaux is certainly one that offers everything you could wish for. Known for its rich architectural heritage, its picture-perfect château, museums, 13th century church, and magnificent parks, it’s hard to believe that Sceaux is less than 10 kms south of Paris.
DISCOVERING THE BEAUTIFUL PARC MONCEAU AND ITS ELEGANT NEIGHBOURHOOD
In the last two posts, we have looked at two outstanding Paris museums, relatively little-known to visitors, both located in the 8th arrondissement, one just around the corner from the other. They are both close by the Parc Monceau, one of the most interesting and beautiful parks in the city, at the junction of Bvd. de Courcelles, rue de Prony and rue Georges Berger. The neighbourhood is a quiet, discreetly elegant, mostly residential area with impressive man…
THE CERNUSCHI MUSEUM OF ASIAN ART, PARIS
The Musée Cernuschi is relatively unknown to most visitors to Paris. Located on a quiet, leafy street that leads up to the beautiful Parc Monceau in an ultra-exclusive area of the 8th arrondissement, it’s just around the corner from the Musée Nissim de Camondo. The Cernuschi is an Asian art museum, mostly specialising in works from China, Japan, and Korea. These are objects collected by Henri Cernuschi, and displayed in a small mansion that used to be his ho…
WALKING THROUGH A WORK OF ART – MONET’S GARDENS AT GIVERNY
We have often been asked about visiting Monet’s gardens at Giverny. How difficult is it to get there independently, or is it best to take a tour from Paris? Is it really worth it, or has it become a victim of tourist hype? Are the hordes of visitors a turn-off? Is it possible for those who want to experience the atmosphere and tranquility of a beautiful garden to still enjoy a visit, given its enormous popularity?
A FEAST OF FESTIVALS IN FRANCE
From history to fantasy, and everything in between, there are plenty of festivals in France where you can experience the country’s vibrant culture. These events celebrate everything from the latest movies, the medieval period, art, wine, parks & gardens, kites, lemons, and dragons, to theatre, opera, and other different genres of music. Right across the country, the biggest and most important festival in France is of course Bastille Day. However, if you…
L’HÔTEL DE LA MARINE – A TOUCH OF VERSAILLES IN THE HEART OF PARIS
If you’ve been to Paris more than once, very likely you have been past the Hôtel de la Marine. This is not a hotel in which you stay, but a hôtel particulier of epic proportions. A “real” hotel, the historic, luxury Hôtel de Crillon, is adjacent. These opulent 18th century buildings are a perfectly balanced pair facing onto Place de la Concorde. Fortunately, during its long and illustrious life, from the reign of Louis XV through the centuries housing the N…
LA SAMARITAINE, AN ICONIC PARISIAN DEPARTMENT STORE REBORN
La Samaritaine has finally re-emerged, like the phoenix rising, if not from the ashes, from a long hibernation of neglect and deterioration that left a gap on the city skyline between the river Seine and the busy rue de Rivoli. Its recent re-opening was a much anticipated event. After 16 long years of closure, renovations, and some controversy, this historic icon is the ultimate grand magasin. Definitely a must-see on your next visit to Paris!
A PARISIAN LANDMARK REIMAGINED: LA BOURSE DE COMMERCE–PINAULT COLLECTION
Over the last two years, despite the severe COVID restrictions, Paris somehow managed to work on a number of extraordinary cultural projects, most of which have now opened. These were not small-scale ventures by any means. As I’ve mentioned previously, two of these were the complete refurbishment of the enormous Musée Carnavalet, now re-opened, and the massive restoration of the Grand Palais, which is still ongoing. Last post, I looked at the new Christian D…
LA GALERIE DIOR – A HOMAGE TO THE ARTISTRY OF THE ‘MASTER OF DREAMS’
Near the top of our list of must-sees on our recent visit to Paris was the Christian Dior museum, La Galerie Dior, which I briefly mentioned in the last blog. I had read about its official opening, just 3 weeks before we hit town. A good friend of ours, the manager of the beautiful Zegna menswear boutique on Ave. George V, urged us to make a visit a priority, as word was spreading fast. This was also a great sign that things in Paris had re-opened, and that…
PARIS—AND THE REST OF FRANCE—ARE BACK IN BUSINESS!
As some of you know, we have just returned from 5 weeks in France. It was a truly wonderful trip, spending 3 weeks in Paris before heading down to the glorious Burgundy district for almost 2 weeks. Like everyone for whom travel is an essential part of life, we were anxious to spread our wings and head back to our favourite destination after the COVID-induced lockdowns of the last 2 years or so.
MUSÉE NISSIM DE CAMONDO – A MAGNIFICENT MANSION DEDICATED TO THE 18TH CENTURY
There are so many wonderful museums in Paris, selecting which ones to visit when you’ve got limited time is a challenge. We certainly have our favourites, and we also keep an eye on websites of Paris cultural institutions to check if there will be any special shows on during our next visit. One of our favourites since we first discovered it some years ago is the Musée Nissim de Camondo, which backs onto the beautiful Parc Monceau, and has a number of embassie…
A NEW WAVE OF MUSEUM RESTAURANTS IN PARIS
In a city that boasts over 140 museums, and a food culture that’s worth travelling from the other side of the world for, it a natural fit that there are going to be cafes and restaurants in certain Paris museums that are as worth visiting as the museums themselves. Some museum restaurants have become icons of good food and great ambience, such as the Café at Musée Jacquemart-André, and more recently, Alain Ducasse’s ‘Ore’ at the Chateau de Versailles and the C…
MUSEE GUIMET – 5,000 YEARS OF ASIAN ART IN PARIS
When we think of museums in Paris, what immediately springs to mind are the internationally famous institutions such as the Louvre, Quai d’Orsay, Pompidou Centre, and perhaps the recent addition of the Fondation Louis Vuitton. But Paris also has the largest and most important collection of Asian artefacts in Europe at the Musée des Art Asiatiques Guimet in the 16th arrondissement. From the Buddhas of Afghanistan, the Zen monks of Japan, Samurai armour, Indian…
PALAIS GALLIERA – THE PARIS MUSEUM OF FASHION
A stone’s throw from some of the most prestigious haute couture houses and designer boutiques in the city, the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris is housed in the Italian Renaissance-inspired Palais Galliera. The museum preserves some of the richest collections in the world, estimated at around 200,000 items of clothing, accessories, photographs, drawings and more. Tracing the evolution of fashion over more than 300 years, these extraordinary collections a…
THE TROCADERO – PANORAMIC VIEWS, BEAUTIFUL GARDENS, FOUR MAJOR CULTURAL INSTITUTIONS, AND A SUPRISING SECRET
Situated on the opposite side of the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, the Trocadéro is well and truly on the must-visit list for offering the best view of the most recognisable monument in Paris. It is also home to beautiful gardens, ornamental ponds and fountains that stretch down to the river, as well as the richness of the Palais de Chaillot, the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, and the Musée de la Marine—although this is currently closed for massive re…
PASSY – WHERE QUIET VILLAGE CHARM MEETS CULTURE & LUXURY
The 16th arrondissement of Paris is best known to visitors for its great landmarks and museums, from the Musée Marmottan-Monet, the Palais Galliera and Musée Guimet, to the Place de la Trocadero and the Palais Chaillot, affording dramatic views of the Eiffel Tower on the opposite bank of the Seine. But the 16th also has corners of quiet, residential areas that feel worlds away from the big-ticket attractions and the bustle of the city. The Passy neighbourhoo…
RUE OBERKAMPF – A VIBRANT PARISIAN NEIGHBOURHOOD
Beyond the iconic Place de la Republique—where Parisians gathered in their thousands after the 2015 attacks on their city—is a fascinating network of streets crammed with some of the city’s hippest venues, chic bars, great bistros, old craft workshops and up-and-coming designer boutiques. In Paris’ 11th arrondissement, rue Oberkampf and the streets around it offer an interesting mix of all of these, plus an increasing number of high-end food shops and any numb…
TWO SECRET VILLAGES IN PARIS
If you’ve been to Paris a few times, no doubt you’ve taken in the big, headline monuments and sites such as the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Louvre, walked along the Champs Elysees and shopped ’til you dropped in Galeries Lafayette. These iconic places are internationally famous for a very good reason, but for your next visit, I’d like to suggest some hidden little pockets to explore that most likely you’ve never heard of. There are a number of charming lit…
MORE GREAT SIGHTS TO DISCOVER IN THE DORDOGNE
Recently we’ve been looking at a number of beautiful places to visit in the Dordogne—a region blessed with a wealth of attractions. There are many beautiful villages—a number of which are members of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France organisation—enough to keep a visitor occupied for weeks. The region has some lovely towns and stunning châteaux and romantic ruins to explore, fascinating cave complexes decorated with prehistoric drawings, ancient Roman sites, n…
THE REMARKABLE LIFE OF JOSEPHINE BAKER – CABARET STAR, RESISTANCE HEROINE, ACTIVIST AND OWNER OF A DORDOGNE CHATEAU
Iconic entertainer of the Jazz Age, famous for her risqué performances, Josephine Baker’s extraordinary story is one of perseverance, bravery, and incredible talent. She was a force to be reckoned with, whether fighting racism in her native America or spying on top Nazis. She found new ways to challenge those who sought to diminish or silence her, and innumerable ways to both charm and resist. She has now been honoured in the Panthéon, Paris.
SARLAT, MEDIEVAL GEM OF THE DORDOGNE
The town of Sarlat-la-Canéda is the capital of the Périgord Noir. Located between the Dordogne and Vézère Valleys, it is regarded as having one of the most beautiful and cohesive collection of medieval buildings in Europe and classified as a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire. Sarlat has the highest density of listed historic buildings per square metre in France. Every year thousands of visitors are attracted to its picturesque squares, charming medieval streets, spl…
LES PLUS BEAUX VILLAGES IN THE DORDOGNE-PÉRIGORD
Boasting more villages designated as Les Plus Beaux Villages de France than any other region, except perhaps Provence, the Dordogne has some of the finest treasures of natural and cultural heritage in the country. You’ll find fortress châteaux, churches, honey-coloured stone buildings, troglodyte cave dwellings, ancient barns, medieval villages, beautiful woodlands, meandering rivers and panoramic views. The food is sensational, based on locally grown produce…
LES PLUS BEAUX VILLAGES DE FRANCE
In September 2021 two more villages achieved the highly prized acceptance into the association of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, namely Polignac in the Haute-Loire, and Le Malzieu-Ville in the Lozere. It’s certainly no secret that France abounds with picture-perfect destinations. If you’ve ever spent time exploring rural France, you probably thought that surely you must have discovered the most beautiful villages in the country—and we all have our favouri…
WHEN A PARIS PÉNICHE IS MORE THAN JUST A BARGE
One of the most pleasant ways to relax in Paris is to take a stroll along the banks of the Seine. It’s a busy, working river with a constant flow of craft of all descriptions. Ranging from the many tourist boats crammed with sightseers enjoying the unique perspective of the city’s great landmarks from the river, to serious, business-like barges riding low in the water, filled with anything from building site rubble to bales of shredded paper heading to the re…
MONT SAINT-MICHEL, NORMANDY’S JEWEL IN THE CROWN
It is surely one of the most stunningly beautiful sights in Europe, and in its setting in a bay shared by Normandy and Brittany, Le Mont Saint-Michel draws the eye from a great distance. It has been a great Christian pilgrimage site from the early 8th century when a local bishop claimed that the Archangel Michael himself came to him in a vision and pressured him into constructing a church atop the island just off the coast. It’s safe to say there’s nowhere in…
ROUEN- NORMANDY’S VIBRANT, HISTORIC & CULTURAL CAPITAL
Situated on the banks of the river Seine, Rouen is the capital of the Haute Normandie region. An active port and commercial city even in the Roman era and Middle ages, Rouen has a number of ornate Gothic churches, beautiful medieval half-timbered houses, a cobblestoned pedestrian centre and its famous astronomical clock. Even if you’ve never been there, you’ll likely to recognise its Cathedral of Notre Dame from the numerous paintings of Claude Monet and J.M…
HISTORIC NORMANDY – FROM THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY, CHÂTEAUX, MEDIEVAL TOWNS & A RICH CUISINE
Normandy offers a rich feast of contrasts for the visitor, ranging from fashionable beach resorts, stunning scenery that inspired the Impressionists and the dramatic coast of the D-Day Landings, which we’ve touched on in the last couple of blogs. There’s a whole lot more to explore though, from historic artefacts, medieval fairs and ruined abbeys, to châteaux, cheeses, cider, conquerors and the childhood home of one of the greatest couturiers of the 20th centu…
NORMANDY AND THE D-DAY LANDINGS
As well as the delightful seaside towns such as Deauville, Trouville and Honfleur and the extraordinary natural phenomena of Étretat, there’s another important aspect of the Normandy coast. It’s something of a pilgrimage site for travellers who want to visit the landscape of the momentous day that changed the course of history. The D-Day Landings just before dawn on 06 June 1944 were nothing less than the largest and most complex combined airborne and amphibi…
EXPLORING SOME HIGHLIGHTS OF NORMANDY’S NORTH COAST
If Deauville is the most recognised resort in Normandy, with its long, sandy beach, grand Belle Epoque hotels and typical Norman houses, it’s only the introduction to so many outstanding attractions that the region has to offer with its beautiful, varied scenery and rich history. Boasting gorgeous countryside, coastline and woodlands, as well as impressive castles, splendid churches, plus picturesque ancient towns and villages, Normandy is the perfect destinat…
DEAUVILLE, THE RIVIERA OF NORMANDY, AND COCO CHANEL
Just 2 ½ hrs from Paris by train, Deauville is a favourite destination for many well-heeled Parisians looking for a weekend getaway. It’s often referred to as the Queen of the Normandy coast, ‘Paris-sur-Mer’ or the Kingdom of Elegance. Notable for its long sandy beach, beautiful Belle Epoque hotels, casino and racecourses, Deauville has been a playground for the rich and famous since the mid 19th century. There was a second wave of development at the turn of…
GREAT FOOD MARKETS TO DISCOVER IN PARIS
One of the great pleasures of a visit to Paris is spending time exploring the many wonderful food markets. You can take your pick from 69 open-air and 13 covered markets in the city, meaning that some arrondissements have more than one market. Everyone has their personal favourites, and we certainly have ours, but we also love to visit other markets in various parts of the city to see what’s on offer. Produce is always seasonal and high quality, and one of t…
SOME LESSER-KNOWN GEMS OF THE CHAMPAGNE DISTRICT
There are many good reasons to plan a visit to the Champagne District. By focussing on the two Champagne “capitals”—the city of Reims and the town of Épernay, the visitor is missing out on so many other attractions of this unique area. This region is rich with World Heritage sites, history and art. It’s easy to spend a couple of extra days divided between châteaux and vineyards, extensive underground cellars—called crayères—hewn out of the chalky earth, wand…
THE CHAMPAGNE EXPERIENCE – THE REGION AND ITS PLEASURES
Say the word “Champagne”, and the first thing that springs to mind is the iconic sparkling white wine named for the region in N.E. France where it’s produced. It’s an area that’s close to Paris for a quick weekend visit, but it has so much more to offer! Champagne is world-renowned as a symbol of the French art of living, of festivities and celebration, literature, painting, music, cinema, photography and even comics, all testifying to the influence and const…
DISCOVER THE FASCINATING MEDIEVAL CITY OF TROYES
Troyes is one of the most alluring and interesting medieval towns in France. It’s easy to spend at least a couple of days wandering around, in and out of many historic buildings, fascinating museums, and the numerous beautiful churches. Its medieval core invites you to stop and enjoy one of the many enticing cafés and restaurants, watch the world go by and enjoy the ambience of this friendly, historic town, surrounded by the most beautiful countryside along t…
THE MUSÉE MARMOTTAN MONET – A LITTLE-KNOWN GEM IN PARIS
A description that’s often used to describe the Musée Marmottan Monet is that it’s a “hidden” gem. Rather, I’d say it’s perhaps more overlooked than hidden, given its location in the chic Passy neighbourhood in the 16th arr. on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne, beside one of the loveliest parks in Paris. Famous for the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet, the museum also has works by other Impressionist painters such as Morisot, Degas, Manet…
LE CHÂTEAU DE VINCENNES – A MEDIEVAL FORTRESS IN PARIS
When you think of châteaux in the Paris area, Versailles is likely the first that would spring to mind. For its sheer beauty, opulence and size, not to mention the wonderful gardens and parklands surrounding it, it’s no wonder that Versailles is one of the most visited destinations in the entire country. However, for those who have “been there, done that” and would like to explore another former royal residence in Paris, the enormous Château de Vincennes offe…
WHEN SHOPS TRANSFORM INTO ‘CONCEPT’ STORES
Paris has long been famous as a world capital of fashion and design, but it is also a city with a wealth of exciting design concept stores bursting with products unique to France. It’s a country and a society with a history of commitment to artisan craft skills, a deep appreciation of the handmade object, innovative use of natural materials and the creative expression of the individual artist or designer.
RUE MOUFFETARD – A PARIS STREET PAVED WITH HISTORY
Around every corner of Paris you will find streets full of history. The secret to discovering the real Paris is to detour off the grand boulevards, famous squares and enticing shopping streets. If you delight in discovering special places, little nooks and crannies, narrow, ancient, pedestrianised streets beloved by locals but unknown to most visitors—the rue Mouffetard in the Latin Quarter of the 5th arrondissement is for you.
NANTES – THRIVING CITY AT THE MOUTH OF THE LOIRE
The city of Nantes in western France is located just 50kms from the Atlantic Ocean. Nowadays, it’s the capital of the Pays de la Loire Region, but will always be known as the capital of Brittany, when the Dukes of Brittany ruled from here until the Duchy was united with France in the 16th century. The city is home to many significant buildings, including the former Duchy’s seat of power. The lifeblood of the city is due to its location on the Loire which bro…
THE LURE OF THE LOIRE – PART 2
As we’ve seen in the previous post, the Loire Valley has a wealth of lively towns and villages, plus world renowned vineyards and enchanting scenery to keep any visitor happily engaged for numerous visits. Not only are the many châteaux a window into a world of grandeur and history, it’s possible to have a more personal experience of these historic places, as some now offer fantastic accommodation. What would a trip to the Loire be without great food? Fortun…